I have a 2001 park avenue. Runs great but when you take your foot off the gas it feels as if the engine shakes or moves. This happens if driving or just parked. Maybe worn motor mount?
View 3 Replies109,000 miles car shakes thru the steering wheel and the seat on highway driving from appox 60 mph and higher. Needed new tires anyways thought it was tire balance problem. Put on 4 new tires, road force balanced all four still shaking. Road force again, still shaking. So I am ruling out the tires. All front end parts are fine, rear end parts are fine. Struts have 30000 miles on them, but the strut bearings are shot. Alignment was done 12000 miles ago when I replaced the outer tie rod ends on both sides up front. Not getting any bearing noises with car on hoist and hand turning the wheels. Where to go next? I need to change the strut bearings out and do another alignment. Any thing else to look at? Just trying to get the ride back.
View 13 RepliesI recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
View 14 Replies2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
View 6 RepliesCruise control engages normally, holds the set speed, but after a few minutes it disengages. It feels that same as when you lightly tap the brake pedal to disconnect the cruise. Bad brake switch or something else?
View 1 RepliesWindshield wipers quit working. Wiper fluid still squirts. Fuse is good. Looking for any information for troubleshooting further.
View 7 RepliesCar has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
View 2 RepliesFront passenger will not open. It sounds like it unlocks but won't open. I was able to get door panel partially off. But i can not see the latch assembly. Not sure if I should try to muscle the panel off more probably destroying it so I can get to latch assembly or try to make a hook of some kind to put down next to window to try to pull rod for door latch. I was able to get my hand inside trying to pull on the arms to open but it never worked. Trying to see if I can get more access to spray it with something to free it up.
View 3 RepliesThe car seems to start accelerating on it own. Say cruise control is set you notice acceleration for no reason. Now cruise control does not work and acceleration at times still happens. It's not like you are flooring it just keeps going faster slowly. Don't know if this could be related I did replace the fuel pump recently and the crankshaft position sensor. I was looking to see if there is a re learn procedure for the crank sensor. I have replaced them in the past and don't remember having to do a relearn.
View 10 RepliesI have an '85 Buick Electra. The "check engine soon" light comes on when I brake, stays on for awhile after I stop braking, and then goes on. There have been a couple of times when it just comes on but the majority of the time, it's when I brake.
View 5 Replies92 PA Base, 141,000 mls
Whenever I have to drive for more than 50 - 75 miles or for one hour at a constant speed, the engine causes the car to buck and loose acceleration. When I press the gas pedal down to the floor, the rpm's stay at zero or when I lightly press the gas pedal, it would accelerate but with noticeable hesitation and difficulty. I go from maintaining speeds of 70 miles down to 40 miles. It also feels like no fuel is getting to the engine. This causes me to pull over for a few minutes, shut the engine off, and then its okay to drive for a few more miles.
I replaced the fuel filter and the MAF sensor. When I changed the MAF, I noticed that the bottom portion of the old one where the little wires are, was broken. I really thought that was the issue but when I replaced it, it started doing the same thing. What should I check or replace next?
1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
I have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
How to remove the left foot rest? Mine moves around slightly and makes a creaking sound when it does. I am thinking that if I can remove it, I can clean it up, lube it, and put it back on. But I don't want to just give it a tug and snap something off.
View 4 RepliesPA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
View 4 RepliesWhen I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
View 1 Replies'02 SE!!! It came with issues needing to be fixed and I'm more than happy to do it... but 2 current issues: Front brakes and O2 sensor/check engine...
BRAKES: When slowing down from highway speed, the front end shakes and the steering wheel moves. I'm guessing bad rotors, as I've had the issue before and that was it. I want to do the pads and rotors and call it a day...
But I don't want to buy crap and I know that's mainly what I tend to find at the drop of a hat, so I have to order something anyway.
O2 SENSOR/CHECK ENGINE: The code which is coming up is "P0420" and when I researched that, it came up as being either the O2 sensors or the cat. I'd like to know which O2 sensor is the UPSTREAM, which is the DOWNSTREAM, and if there's a way to test the sensors on the car currently to find out if they are in fact bad.
I've also heard a bit more exhaust noise than I'd like to hear out of the car (like a leak), but it isn't howling yet. Is there a chance that a leak in the flexpipe/downpipe/etc could lead to throwing this code?
Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
View 6 Replies92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.