Happens when I quickly let off gas pedal and engine spools down. Just curious, hopefully no big deal but though I would ask. No maintenance lights on either.
View 6 RepliesI just got a used low-milage 2013 LS460, and noticed that every time I tap the break pedal I hear a "clicking" sound coming from under the dash or hood. This seems to happen every time I touch or press on the brakes, at seemingly any speed. It sounds almost like an actuator of some kind... perhaps like the type which allows the transmission to shift out of park. Is this normal, or an indication of a an issue?
View 14 RepliesJust noticed this the other day, when depressing my GF's 2011 Accent's brake pedal it made a low hissing sound, it would go away when you took your foot off the pedal, you would never hear this with the radio on, but it was enough to make me think it could be a concern.
Drove the car and it didn't affect the brake permormance, but the longer this goes, I can't imagine this being a good thing.
Car is 3 years old, and has 80-20 city/hwy driving under it.
I have a 2010 Santa Fe w/ ~25,000km. Yesterday, I noticed that after depressing the brake pedal (while driving) i hear a wheezing noise and then a click right before i come to a complete stop. When i am stationary, and i depress the break pedal, i hear the clicking noise but no wheezing sound.
I just took it into service today and even drove around the lot with one of the service techs and he says its normal. That the clicking noise is coming from the shifter release. I don't believe i heard this sound when i bought it, nor any other time till yesterday. The sound is driving me crazy! This cant be normal .... can it?
Looking for a fix for the annoying squeaking noise often happening when depressing the brake pedal?
Dealer "bled" the brake actuator...did not work, said I need new actuators for 2.5k.... 2007 LS 460L ....
96 Aerostar Cargo 6 cyln. Auto.
There is a noise coming from what sounds like the rear passenger side wheel. Also, when you put it in drive and release your foot from the brake the van stays still. You have to push the gas to get it moving, like the brake is holding it. If you are going very slow on a flat surface the van will eventually stop instead of idling forward.
I have removed the wheel, it does turn hard. Pulled the drum (was very hard to remove). Had to move adjuster to remove drum. Cleaned inside, inspected the brake shoes, put drum back on, etc. I am pretty sure that brake is causing resistance. How to resolve it?
I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
For these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when Im changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] ......
I bought my girlfriend a 2000 Ford Focus with 150k Miles on it to drive for the summer in Oregon. The car is physically in great condition with no noticeable leaks on it. After a week or so of driving, my girlfriend complained that a couple of times she would be driving the car and while going up a hill "nothing would happen" sometimes when she punched the accelerator. I asked her if the engine revolutions were going up and if the engine made a "vroom" sound (to try to see if the transmission was slipping) and she said it did not.
On a long trip driving from Seattle to Portland, she was driving again and we were climbing a long hill and she suddenly complained that "nothing was happening" when she punched the accelerator. She panicked and pulled off to the side of the road quickly. There was no shaking or vibration. I did not hear the engine wind up when this happened... so I am assuming the tach was not going up when she depressed the gas pedal. I opened the hood and looked inside and seeing nothing obvious, I switched to the drivers' side. No codes were thrown. I drove the car up the rest of the hill and to a flat area and we let the car cool off for a few minutes. I drove the car for the next 75 miles to Portland without event. When we got to her grandparents house, I changed the spark plugs (which were pretty fouled up), and changed the fuel filter (which actually looked pretty new.) and it seemed to satisfy her for awhile. Being that I havent experienced the issue, I just assumed she is not used to driving a small hatchback with a fairly wimpy engine.
In the meantime I had the entire front end redone, control arms, etc and alignment because she had had a slight shake...which is unrelated here but i figured I'd mention it. So, the other night she calls me on the side of the road, slightly shaken. Her latest incident was as such: at the bottom of an on-ramp to the highway, she punched the accelerator and "nothing happened" when she hit the pedal. This time the check engine light briefly came on, and the "OIL" light came on. She was able to pull off to the side of the road somehow and then pull to an exit. She turned the car off and let it sit for 5 minutes.
Here's the weird part: She started it up and claims she put it in "Drive" and pressed the gas pedal and nothing happened and the car actually started creeping backwards. She hit the brake and turned the car off. She started the car and drove away 5 minutes later without incident and drove it 20 minutes home. She said her gas was very low when this happened, close to the gas light coming on.
She took the car to a reliable mechanic in seattle the next day, and they said there was no issues and they thought the car was actually in great shape. Unfortunately no codes were logged and no codes have been logged at all! My only other weird observation about the car is that the tach seems to fall kind of quickly after acceleration... almost comically compared to my volkswagen 1.8 which has a gentle rise and fall to it. It kind of bounces up and down but the ride is smooth. Random, but i figured i'd mention it
Should she just make sure to keep the gas level above low/empty?Should a fuel pressure check be on the docket? The previous owner claimed the timing belt only had 25k on it, but he could have been lying.
I have a 2011 4 door and I drive it VERY LITTLE... I have a company truck so the car sits most of the time but when I get in it to drive on the weekends or whatever, sometimes when I hit the brakes it feels like they stick while depressing the pedal. Its nothing unsafe feeling just annoying and it forces me to kinda slam on the brakes. it seems to go away after I drive it a while, I have been attributing it to sitting so much but wanted to double check.
View 1 Replies2004 Ford Explorer Sports Trac.
Just recently when driving down any road, when I let go of the gas to slow down from any speed, there is a funny grinding noise coming from under the truck, the Speedo drops fast, but the RPM`s stays the same. Then at around 30-40 km/hr, it just stops. When I place it into 4x4, I don`t have the problem. Also, again just recently, when I put the truck into reverse, I get the same grinding noise from under the truck. I have to putt he truck into 4x4, and then I put it in reverse for it to work.
I don`t have the problem going into drive. Both problems don't happen all the time, it will go away for 2-3 days then ill have problems for a few days after. I Took the truck to the shop and they said its the tranny so I replaced with a brand new one thinking that is the problem, but After the Tranny was replaced its still making all the same noises. The grinding noise sounds like "ice in a grinder" or to that effect. I'm not sure whats wrong, and I'm getting frustrated at my truck.
I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
2013 tdi 6mt. I am noticing that my clutch clicks when the pedal is depressed. it does not happen when I first start driving in the morning, but it seems that once the cabin is warmed slightly it starts then clicks each and every time. It is annoying and it appears to be related to the different temps outside vs the cabin. I did not notice it during summer or early fall but it is cold here now.
View 24 RepliesI have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 VW Passat: The windows go down by themselves
Door locks are clicking
Hazard lights are flashing
The car isnt always running while this is happening, key is not in the ignition. Car can be unlocked or locked and it still happens.
My daughter has bought a 2003 4 door accent and on the way to work she lost most of the brakes. I could not see any fluid leaking and the level was ok. I did try pushing on the brake pedal with my hand and it was making a noise like a clicking? I was thinking it was just the brake light switch but not sure. The place she bought it from put new brakes on it when the driver side was getting really hot. I am thinking maybe air in the system? It sounded like a caliper was sticking when I test drove it but only a couple of times. You would have some brakes but you had to pump the peddle.It is in a parking lot right now but I can work on it unless it is some sort of different? I am going to try to bleed it in a little bit but was thinking I should ask around. I read that the piston could be sticking but can you just rebuild the master cylinder to fix it if that is what it is? I could pull the pedal back a little bit. I only looked at for 4 or 5 minutes kinda dark and no tools with me.
View 10 RepliesOk so I have done a complete brake overhaul with rebuilt calipers, new pads and rotors and a new master cylinder. Brakes stop on a dime and are solid when pressed firmly. When coming to a stop at a slow speed (5 mph) pedal gives in with slight clicking grinding noise. I have exhausted searches on google and here with no soild answers any clue what causes this or how to fix it?
View 24 RepliesEvery time when lightly depressing the brake pedal there is a single click sound.
It doesn't not happen when releasing the pedal just when depressing it. It happens in all circumstances (i.e. with the car off, car on, stopped, moving, etc).
I thought it corresponded to the tail lights or the start button light because it happens right around when those lights turn on, but I was able to make it click without having either of those lights come on by depressing the pedal super slow.
I can't tell if its inside the car near the pedal or under the hood near the firewall... But it's right around that area. It seems louder at times then other times...usually quieter when car is moving (probably just drowned out by road noise)
When I turn left a "clicking" noise appears, it's rhythmic and I figured it was the CV joint at the drivers side going bad. Bought a new one and installed it. Clicking seemed to get away for maybe 5-7 days. Then it occurred again. Because the package in which the cv joint arrived was very roughed up I thought maybe it took damage during delivery and bought a new one. Installed and guess what? Took a drive after that, NOTHING and now it's clicking again. It's so loud you can hear it when you drive behind my truck and I'm turning. Doesn't seem to make a difference if I brake or not.
View 14 RepliesI have 98 ford explorer sport 4x4 does has a clicking noise coming from the front driveshaft that connects the transfer case to the front differential. At first we thought it was the front drivers side cv joint which we replaced. nothing changed. there is still a noise apparently coming from the front driveshaft. we can not tell if it is the front differential or the transfer case itself. The noise is being transfer through the front driveshaft. It sounds a bearing is going bad.
View 1 Repliesi i am having trouble getting the quick connect on the slave cylinder to go back in i just pulled the entire transmission and replaced the clutch and now when i try to put the quick connect fitting in the slave it is rock solid and will not go in at all
View 1 RepliesThe truck in my sig. makes a clicking noise when it's in the park and I press the brake pedal down. The click is coming from somewhere up high in the steering column. It doesn't make the clicking noise in any other gear only in park. Might be normal but I don't remember hearing it before?
View 9 Replies