I'm going to work with my cousin change his oil pan on his 2002 passat 1.8T and I would like to know what torque the screws from the oil pan should be? Is the anything specific that I must know about doing this? Anything to make the job easier, faster and to not make mistakes.
View 3 RepliesBrand new bumper came in without screws and nuts, it's ready for painting but i need the right hardware. (photos are simply for reference)
I want to keep the screws and nuts OEM meaning as close to as exact as possible without home depot or some lame arse hardware store, i'm talking about original VW if possible parts. Or at least the clips if anything at all. VW dealer hasn't supported much either, they just said go to Home Depot and buy some regular screws and u-nuts but I want everything as if it came straight off the dealership. I do not believe that all screws and nuts are created equal and where to get exact right hardware I need.
As far as I know the bottom needs 18 or so 5mm nuts and "u-nuts" that they screw into. And there's also the stock scoop, where to even start with screws on this one.
During my 35 years of experience as a production line and service engineer in the aerospace industry, it was my job to determine the least expensive and easiest foolproof way to perform any production and service operation.
Many readers here have related their experience with the oil filter housing and their difficulty with its removal and reinstallation with the need of a torque wrench to correctly tighten it. Most all technical tightening of screw systems have gone to the "angular torque method," as it is more accurate than the standard torque wrench.
We had the transmission rebuilt on Oct 1, 2013. Since then the check TOD light has flashed steadily. The transmission guys could get no codes on their equipment. We took it to another mechanic who replaced the speed sensor, light still flashed so he took it off. Finally found a way to get some codes which indicated neutral safety switch. He tried that, light still flashed, part removed. Tranny was leaking some fluid, so back to transmission shop. They had it for a week, fixed the leak, but could find nothing wrong with TOD, even from ATSG, so we took the car back.
View 3 RepliesWhy can't ford use stailess steel sheet mental screws on the floor trim pice where door meets car. My 2010 Ranger the screws on taht trim piece have rusted already and I have drill them out and replaced them. In order to clean under the floor matting or remove trim piece. .
View 3 RepliesI just completed a detailed cleaning of my SF last weekend and I noticed that every plastic screw and plastic nut inside the wheel wells were all loose. (Not the screws on the outside but inside above the tires.) I tightened them only finger tight.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 SuperCrew 4x4 that makes a squealing sound that starts at 3000 rpm and slowly goes away as it approaches 4000 rpm. It does this when you are in park or in gear. I believe the torque converter is going bad, but just want to make sure before I tear it all down.
View 1 RepliesI took apart my front bumper for my 2012 Camry SE a while back and swapped it when I hit a cone on the freeway.
I accidentally lost one of those metal nuts that goes underneath the bumper - its like a hexagon if I remember correctly. - I had to use a torque wrench to open them and there was like 8 or 10 total.
The lock in the cargo hatch of my 2003 Honda Pilot is loose and wobbles around -- you have to really slam the door hard to get it to engage, and it rattles. I went to Autozone and showed it to them, and the guy pulled the trim molding out slightly and retrieved two short screws with large flat heads. Said I needed to remove the trim panel and put the screws back in. So -- how do I remove the trim panel so I can do this? Do I need specialized tools, and is this something I can do myself?
View 2 RepliesWhat are the correct torque settings for oil drain plug, oil filter and spark plugs on a 2.0 FSI engine?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
View 14 RepliesI just heard a dyno operator explain a dip in torque from 1500-2500 rpm as being that the auto box disengages due to excessive torque to prevent damage.
this is for a chipped passat B6 1.8TSI (I know guys in the US dont have this engine) but hardware nonetheless should be similar is there such a feature for the B6 autobox to disengage or pull power in order to protect itseld due to excessive torque?
2ndly, does a dyno even read accurately WOT from 1500-2500 rpm?
My torque converter is on the way out so I need to look for a new one. I'm pretty new at the transmission thing but I was told by my indy that my torque converter is on the way out. My problem is that I can't find the part number for my torque converter. I have a 2000 1.8t tip ATW.
View 3 RepliesAs the title implies I need the part # for the OEM VW Stretch bolt that holds the Torque Arm insert in place. I've had the mount on my car for a few months now and I've grown tired of it.
I re-used the OEM bolt the first time and I think I'm better off replacing it as it may not be wise to unbolt it and re-torque it for a third time. Looking for the part # for the stretch bolt? I believe it's 21mm.
Going to replace brake lines tomorrow and would like to confirm the torque spec on the actual banjo bolt as not to break them but also don't want to leave them too loose...
View 3 RepliesI am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
Yesterday leaving a meeting, I started it off gunning it from a light and i went from 1st to 2nd and foreshore i placed it in 3rd and some how it went into 1st and it happened twice last night. i have the forge short shifter from going north to south and from west to east. I been driving stick for years and never had this happen to me, maybe if it happened once it was a drivers error but it happened twice in one night. I have stock motor mounts and even before this my car when gunning on it it won't go into third gear so ill end up missing. And since it hit 8000 rpms do u think I did sum damage to the vehicle, it drives fine and no abnormal noise. anything to check for?
View 24 RepliesI have a stage 2 GTI. What can I do to increase low end torque?
From my research, swaping for a k04 is not going to work, in fact its gonna make it worst.
I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block.
I have just had my transmission rebuilt and torque converter replaced. Now the torque converter will not lock up. It turns 2700rpms @ 55 mph! The shop says it maybe my speedometer causing this because it is stuck at 20 mph. was this way before it went into the shop. I'm replacing the stepper motors next week when the parts get here.
View 14 RepliesLooking for ccess to a '13 Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) that states the torque specification for the oil pan drain bolt on the 3.5L?
If the '13 FSM is similar to the '05 FSM, the torque value will appear on the diagram that shows the oil pan assembly. I believe the spec is 30 ft-lbs (with a new washer), but I want to confirm.