Passat (B5) :: 2003 - Bucking And Lurching Throwing A P0301 (Cyl 1 Misfire) Code
Jan 29, 2011
My wife's 03 Passat w/ 1.8t is bucking and lurching throwing a P0301 (Cyl 1 misfire) code. We have about 58k on the engine and had the dealer do the 40k service 2 years ago.
So far I replaced cyl 1 spark plug, swapped and then replace coil pack with new. My choices for parts were limited on a Friday night and these are el cheapo Autozone parts. Still missing and throwing DTC, I don't really have access to Vag-Com anymore (just OBD reader at parts store) and I don't have a Bentley's either (I know there's some eye rolling going on now).
How to troubleshoot the cause so I can make a decision to take to mechanic or do a few more parts swaps between now and Monday. I've got tools and a multi-meter. I used to have Vag-Com but it isn't supported on my new laptop (Vista), I tried the USB extension cord on my desktop but it is hit and miss.
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My 97 F150 through a CEL Tuesday night P0301 so I picked up a new plug because it's cheap and simple, but that didn't do anything. Spark plug wires are about 3 months old, I also swapped injectors between 1 and 2, and misfire stayed with cylinder 1. It also gained a tap when the misfire started but only above idle, but it doesn't sound like a rod knock.
I also noticed if you unplug injector 1at idle it taps/knocks 3 or 4 times, however if you unplug any of the others it doesn't do that. I checked and I definitely have good spark from the plug. I plan on picking up a new compression tester tomorrow since mine never was returned. If you take the oil fill cap off it doesn't have any blow by at idle, however if you rev it you get a quick cloud out of it.
I thought about picking up a kit to check the injector pulse.
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I have a 99 Volkswagen Passat 1.8 Turbo Automatic AEB engine. I recently did a rebuild on it and ever since I keep getting this code P0301 that says "cylinder 1 misfire". The engine is also running rich and the spark plug in cylinder 1 keeps getting gummed up. I've changed the coil and the spark plugs and the injectors and it works temporarily but then the problem keeps reoccurring.
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I am at about my wits end with this P0301 (Misfire On Cylinder #1) code on my 2003 Ford F150 4.6L. I've replaced the coil pack on that cylinder, all the spark plugs, and replaced the fuel injector on that cylinder. We keep clearing the code and it keeps on coming back.
The weird thing is that it only misfires after the truck has set for a few hours and then it only misfires when I first put it in gear. Once I am out of the driveway and on the road it's fine for most of the day unless I let it sit for several hours and then it might misfire again.
We noticed that the connector to the fuel injector is wobbly and doesn't snap tight to the fuel injector (before and after it was replaced) due to the clips on the side not working well. We zip tied it together this afternoon to make it fit tightly to the fuel injector to see if that works.
What could be causing this? Other than that misfire the engine sounds great and the trucks runs very well.
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I have a 98 F150 4.2L with code P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire.
This is what I have done so far. New plugs, coil pack, plug wires, TPS, EGR, EGR Vacuum control regualier, DMCP, canister, all of these parts are new and was bought from the ford place. Have taken the egr value, and egr value bracket off to see if carbon blockage was present, but it was clean. It was clean in the motor also. Have blown air through the metal tube that connects to the egr value and it come out the tail pipe very good, so no blockage their. Have cleaned throtle body and injectors. Have tested fuel injector with tester and it works correctly. Motor holder pressure. Have correct fuel pressure.
Do not have any vacuum leaks, it holds vacuum correctly. Crankshaft sensor is fine. Went throw 4 cans of break parts cleaner, spraying on intake while motor was running, motor did not idle up or change. I have done all this and it still shows code P0301, and it still skips. Here's the catch, if you unplug the vaccum off the egr the misfire goes away, or unplug the EGR vacuum control regulator it goes away, or if you unplug the DMCP sensor it goes away, it does not matter witch one you unplug, the misfire goes away.
I have had several different test done the the truck, but all the test only show that one code P0301, they do not show any other codes, or problem's with my truck.
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My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
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I have a 2009 Corolla with a 1.8 L. I have the misfire code P0301. I have changed the plugs, ignition coil, and fuel injector on cylinder one. It still has the misfire.
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'07 Avalon with 169k miles. I replaced all 3 back coils and 6 plugs back in December when I had various misfires, but the most common code was P0301 which is cylinder 1.
Car ran great until last week when I made a hard left and accelerated. CEL started flashing, read code and it's P0301. Every time I accelerate half throttle or more I can set the code off, but then shutting down car and restarting it drives fine, until I go half throttle. Car runs better when cold, and worse when I turn left and accelerate.
As long as I don't mash the gas I can drive for a half hour or so without the strumbling/hesitation. Surely the new coil hasn't failed so soon, I hate to pull the wipers, plenum,etc. and buy another coil just on a chance that might solve the issue. Car is only throwing a P0301 this time, no other codes like before. I've read a clogged cat or sticky exhaust valve could cause a cyl misfire.
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This happened xmas shopping with the wife. Started misfiring on the highway,took the 1st exit to find a garage as I am 20kms from home. The vibrations were worse at stop, but made it to a garage. They gave me the p0301 misfire cylinder 1, said they don't touch 5.4 plugs, told me to go to ford 2kms down the road. NICE. 4 in the pm, FORD dealer worse case scenario. Nope gave me a loaner told me come back at 930am. Truck was just waiting for an injector when I arrived. Plug & coil were good injector was shot,changed the fuel filter & oil change.
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2009 corolla 1.8l 155,000 miles. Replaced iridium spark plugs at 100,000
I got a CEL few weeks ago, P0301 Toyota - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Car has been running bad for about 2 weeks now, excise noise on the highway, especially up hills.
Yesterday, I took a look, replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1, same results. Checked the coils using one of those flashing tools, all 4 flashed quickly, with no breaks in flashing. put it all back together, cleared the code, went home.
Took it out for a drive today, and it started running way worse. Checked the CEL, and now I have both P0301 and P0303 Misfire on cylinder 1 and 3. Barely made it home, ran VERY VERY bad.
Got home, and made a video of it. It just kept dying. Check it out here. [URL] .....
Also, when it does run, it almost sounds like I can hear excess air, its hard to hear in video, but doesn't sound right. Maybe air leak? How do I check?
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So I dropped my prius off to get looked at for error code p0301 number 1 cylinder missfire. They ruled out Spark plugs, coils and fuel injector. What else is ther? Also could it be the battery or even gas?
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I had a consistent misfire on this car and finally got a P0301 trouble code. I installed new Autolite AP 104 plugs and wires. Now, when I start the engine. it runs perfectly. But when I put it in gear, it misfires. After a minute or so, the misfire clears and the engine runs perfectly. I have not received another trouble code. One thing I did notice is that the plugs I took out (Motorcraft AWSF 32P) had a much larger gap than the .044 the associate at AutoZone set the new plugs to.
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I have a 2006 F150 with a cylinder #1 misfire only code p0301. I have done new spark plugs, new coil packs, and new fuel injector on cylinder #1 with no luck. What to do next?
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2000 Grand Am GT with 3.4 and 150,000 miles. Car keeps throwing code P304 - cylinder 4 misfire. The main issue is the light and needing to pass emissions test. It has just recently had new plugs, wires, and injector #4.
The fuel pressure regulator was replaced about 3 years ago because it was leaking fuel, enough to smell while driving the car with windows rolled down. Shortly after the fpr was replaced, the acceleration problem seems to have started, either by coincidence, or improper installation. The light/error has been occurring for quite some time, about the past year or two. About a year ago, the car was also throwing a random misfire code. I am not positive if both codes were being thrown at the same time, and when exactly the P304 started.
The crank (or cam) sensor was replaced and worked with the issue for a short while (removed codes/light for maybe a few months?) Before the sensor was replaced, the car would stumble at very slow speeds, 0-10 mph. Also replaced Idle Air Control valve last year. The car would sometimes surge on semi warm starts (not cold, not 190-200) between 500-1000 rpms. The surge would be worse when I had the blower running or the rear defrost on, down to 200 rpms at times.
Currently, the car runs perfectly fine for me, except when trying to accelerate on highway ramps. Its firing somewhat when you step on the pedal, but lags and takes longer than normal to accelerate up to speed for merging with traffic. Drove the car after new injection and said it runs fine while driving, but the misfire seems to be mostly or only occurring at idle.
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We have a 1999 Audi A6 Avant (wagon) with about 190,000 miles. Best car we've ever owned, and want to keep her running until the wheels fall off (so to speak). We split our time between sea level and a ski town at 7000' (yes, that may be relevant).
Last spring our Trusty (sea-level) Mechanic repaired the exhaust system; both tailpipes were shot (car sounded like a tank). Rather than replace with Audi parts (was going to be a full exhaust system replacement - $000s) they spliced in some new tailpipe. Car ran quietly after that.
However, immediately thereafter (like, on my drive home from Trusty Mechanic's shop) and ever since the car will occasionally stumble (misfire) and throw a check-engine light. Typical scenario is after having been off the throttle while going downhill and then tipping into the throttle at the bottom of the hill, the car will stumble and on comes the CEL. Stumbling lasts 5-10 seconds then gradually subsides. Light stays on, though. Not 100% reproduceable under those circumstances (but doesn't really happen under other scenarios), but happens often enough to be disconcerting.
We recently decamped from sea level to spend the summer up in the mountains (great bicycling), and while the car misbehaved a couple of times on the way out of town, by the time we got to 5000 ft or so, the CEL was no longer illuminated. The car has not misfired once while at altitude despite plenty of situations that would presumably have triggered the issue, were we at sea level.
Trusty Mechanic has replaced some injectors, some coil packs, and the spark plug cables. No behavior change.
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2002 Passat 1.8T
Backstory. The P0411 code shes had for quite some time. I think probably 4 years maybe. Just never did anything about it because I guess they are expensive to fix. Thats the SAIP and combi valve correct? Anyway to remove all the emissions stuff and get the codes deleted?
So, about 3 weeks ago, maybe a little longer i cleaned her engine bay, replaced a few vacuum lines because the shop she took it to last year did a terrible job. Mind you, they did a head gasket, timing belt and some other minor things while they were in there. And they couldn't take the time you run new vacuum lines, since they just cut the originals and used a bunch of t fittings to "solve" the problem.
Anyway, i replaced the lines and it seemed to run better at idle, still had a little mis at idle but ran smooth at speed. I also did an oil change, put some fuel injector cleaner in it, put some seafoam in the oil, and cleaned the engine bay thoroughly. I did it properly and took all the plastics off, cleaned them, scrubbed the bay and used an air hose to get rid of the excess water. Left in a nice state. Ran smoother, looked better, so on and so forth.
Fast forward to last week, and she mentions to me her car isnt running right. Its sputtering, hesitates, running rough, exhaust is puttering, and it used up a lot of gas. She parked it for a few days, and i came down to look at it. Mind you, i don't have a code reader. So I looked at it blindly thinking it had an ignition issue. Nothing could have changed that quick since i looked at it.
So, today we got one coil(just in case ones bad), and 4 new plugs (Autolite Iridiums). Replaced and gaped the plugs to .030, torqued to 23 ft/lbs and started the car. Seemed to run a bit better, but subsided quickly. I then pulled each coil harness plug to make sure it would misfire on each cylinder and it did. So, new plugs and the coils checked out. Time to get its codes read.
Took it to the Pepboys and the codes it came back with were the P0011, P300, P0301-3. Cleared the codes and they came back nearly immediately. I had the dreaded P0011 code. The misfire codes im guessing were from the coils being pulled on each one, and also due to the P0011. Now i read a lot of threads about the P0011 and how its usually not the camshaft position sensor. However, i pulled the plug on that while the car was running and nothing changed. So i thought it could be the CPS. Changed that out and still nothing.....
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Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
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I just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 automatic... it ran great for a few days and even ran fine on the 100+mile trip home from the previous owners house. All the sudden it shut down on the highway today. I could barely get it started again and when it did start, it ran like hell, bucking and jolting, almost like a really bad misfire. I could also smell trans fluid being heated up, so I let it sit awhile and then it fired right up. It drove for about a half mile and began to act up again. I threw it in second gear to limp it home which it died several times on. Each time I'd let it sit for like 15 minutes with the negative battery cable off. It fires right up after that but the problem quickly returns. Also the overdrive button doesn't work, and the trans control switch fuse (spot 29) blows repeatedly. Also the power door locks do not work.
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My 2003 Camry has po301 fault code also have same code showing as pending. Can't find nothing on google regarding duplicate codes . The car starts fine, runs fine, idles fine. Excellent at high speeds I don't think the car is misfiring . Could it be a bad sensor giving me a false reading .
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I have a 03 GLI 24v VR6 thats throwing a P0113 code, which is for the intake air temperature sensor. The sensor is part of the MAF sensor, ive tried 2 brand new BOSCH MAF sensors yet the same check engine continues to reoccur. Is there anything else that oculd be triggering it to come on? Is there anyway to bypass/disable it through vagcom?
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97 F150 4.6 200xxx on recent rebuild. My truck is throwing P0171 & P0174.
I think I tracked it down to leaky IAC and EGR gasket. I sprayed both with carb cleaner and the RPM's dropped.
My question is, wouldn't the RPM's rise instead of drop? I was under the impression that they would go up if the gaskets were leaking. Or did I use the wrong spray?
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