Passat (B5) :: 2004 - Vibration On Acceleration
Sep 21, 2010
I have an '04 passat 2.8l with manual tranny. I have noticed on acceleration when it get to approx.2,200-2,300RPM. I can feel a vibration then it goes away around 2,500-2,600RPM. It does this in any gear and at any rate of acceleration. I have noticed that when I have the clutch engaged and rev the engine it is as smooth as can be at that RPM range. I'm thinking it has to be in the drivetrain and not the engine. Also, I have to replace the CV Axles, as they are popping. Could they possibly cause this odd vibration? My car has 96,000mi on it and is very clean and well taken care of.
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Recent axle replacement and now I've noticed that there is some annoying vibration under hard acceleration and at speeds around 65+.
I just read that cheap replacement axles suck. However, I also read that the OEM are hollow and the cheapos are solid. Could only replacing one side cause there to be some sort of imbalance and cause the vibration?
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I bought a B5.5 wagon with 145kmi on it last week. It's a 1.8t with a tiptronic transmission.
Last night, when I stepped on the accelerator for the first time when it downshifted I got a nasty vibration until I let off. When just cruising or accelerating at a normal speed there is no vibration at all. It doesn't matter if you're doing 20 mph or 60mph, it's the same vibration when you accelerate hard.
I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or something?
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B5 Passat wagon coil over installation Vibration happens during acceleration.
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If you have an intake and are under heavier acceleration, do you get any vibrations in the car while getting that growl sound?
I have the intake pipe zip tied so that it is away from the brake lines but I'm trying to figure out if the vibes are coming from just the sound frequency or something or if it's something else.
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I have a 99 VW Passat with 2.8 V6, FWD, Automatic tranny and it currently has 94.5K miles. Under semi hard or hard acceleration from either a rolling or standing start, the car vibrates something terrible. Steering wheel has bad vibration and the whole car shakes. If you back off and accelerate very slowly its pretty smoother.
I have had the tires balanced 3 time but the last 2 times the dealer and Sears didn't even move the weights. When cruising at amy steady speed on the highway there is no vibration whatsoever. So I don't think tire balance is the problem. The dealer then put in two brand new half shafts but its no better. I asked them to check the motor mounts but they said they are fine.
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I recently I had the cv boots replaced on my 2006 VW Passat 2.0. Since then the front vibrates upon acceleration. I have taken the car to a different mechanic than the one who did the cv boots and he says there may be a broken motor mount. I am skeptical about this diagnosis but now am completely stumped.
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I have what feels like a rotational vibration (front to back) during mid to hard acceleration in 5th gear (60-65+mph) and its driving me crazy trying to figure this out. I can slightly feel it under hard acceleration in 3rd gear as well.
I have tried two different sets of wheels (both after market and stock) with no luck. I am starting to think it is in the motor and not the suspension... Or could it be the trans? What can I check/inspect to get how to tackle this?
Info on the car: 2003 Wagon 1.8T 5sp. 40k miles
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2007 XLS Crew Cab 2wd. 60K miles When going through the 35 to 60 mile per hour range there is a vibration that seems to come from the drive shaft. Let off the gas and it goes away. After 60 mph it seems to be gone. I am thinking Trans support, motor support? One of the postings on this sight made me wonder about the transmission. By the way, I just bought this truck used and love it. Can I run flex fuel in the 4.6L engine?
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2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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2004 passat 1.8T with 190K miles. Very well taken care of drove great a few days ago and i did notice a few hiccups during acceleration from stop or just accelerating from say 30mph. Nothing major figured something in the spark system
Today I was driving and it got alot worse. If I use 3/4 throttle or more the acceleration is so choppy that the car wont go anywhere until I ease out of it. now the Check engine light started flashing when this happens. Only thing different about today is that its colder
From the search and my moderate knowledge of cars the possible culprits are (in no order):
fuel filter
spark system (coils, wires, plugs)
plugged cat converter
Ignition module?? (not coils)
MAF sensor
Vac line/s
Pcv valve
190K miles. She idles great no a single hiccup. I am thinking pcv valve and fuel filter?
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So, for some reason my 2004 has had a vibration ever since I bought it. This vibration occurs when in R or D when the car is not moving (stop light, parking e.g.). As soon as I accelerate the vibration goes away. After I bought the car I took it to the dealer to have them fix it and they replaced the engine mounts which made it a little better but not much. Recently the vibration has gotten significantly worse and I'm not sure why. I had the car into the dealer about a month ago to replace an A/C solenoid. Also, Tucson was hit by some torrential rain and I got caught driving through some water deep enough to nearly stall the engine out.
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I have an 07 LE V6 with 76,000 miles. I am lowered on coilovers and have 20 inch wheels. so i have a small vibration while normal acceleration between 10-20 mph once i go past 20 mph it goes away. If I am accelerating heavy I feel the front vibrating all the way up until i let go of the gas. i can feel the pedal and steering wheel a lot and the whole car vibrates kinda hard.
I got new tires and replaced the pass side axle already. at first i thought it was the axle since the boot was leaking and i heard the clicking noise. I've even tried putting my stock wheels back on n i still feel it. I am going to lift the car up and try to find whats going on and what to look for under the car.
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I just purchased a 2010 rx 350 sport package. I have vibration when accelerate as soon as a release the gaz the vibration stop... I bring the car to the dealer. The change the magnetic clutch differential. still vibrate. The change the shaft; still vibrate. tomorrow the will change the front axle... If the continue like that the will change the complete truck... i hope it's not only the tire... I have 19" Michelin in good condition...
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I just recently lowered my mk6 with h&r springs(1.2 front and rear) and installed wheels and tires from tire rack. I am noticing a lot of vibration at the wheel, pedals and seats while accelerating or moving at higher speeds. I had an alignment done after the springs were installed and all 4 tires/wheels have been road force balanced. One of the tires rated at 20lbs which apparently is acceptable but Tire rack sent me a new tire anyway, which I just had put on today.
Still the same vibration is there. Next step tire rack wants to do is switch out all 4 of my Michelin for a different tire. The guys at tires plus feel that there is no issue with the tires and I think I agree. Could the lowering springs be the problem?
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So i have a 09 tiguan with 112000 kms. and lately i have been having problems with the transmission. i am getting a vibration upon acceleration and it acts up with its shifting like switching gears every once and a while like its hunting for a correct gear. this problem has been getting steadily worse. Is there anything i should know about these transmissions that is common to go on them that would cause this. the car is not beat on and i tried to get vw to do a filter and fluid change but they refused to stating it is a sealed unit and the do not touch it.
Is this a software issue (i highly doubt it) as i did a tb reset and it made it a bit better. i am at a loss with this car it is costing me a fortune. One last thing i had the prnd letters light up solid one time a while ago upon starting but it only did it once and never did it again. I am pretty sure this says there is a fault if i am not correct.
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I have a 2002 Honda CRV-LX with over 200,000 miles. I'm experiencing a loud hum and vibration between 40 and 50 mph on acceleration and deceleration. It occurs when I'm driving straight or turning left, but goes away when I turn right.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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My 2005 3.3 V6 NF Elite has developed a vibration under acceleration. Its not always apparent, but certain road surfaces, and certain rates of acceleration seem to make it worse, when it can be felt throughout the car. The drivers side CV is beginning to click, so will need replacing soon, and I suspect that some bushings around the suspension are worn, as they are squeaking. Could those issues cause such a vibration.
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I just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
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