Daughters car is throwing this code of 17705 VW (1297) saying it is a "Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve" Car runs rough until about 2500 RPM. Replaced the pressure switch by the intercooler.
View 1 RepliesAnybody have any issues with this? I have a week old r-line and had the epc light come on, turbo seems to spool heavily with little throttle input and seems a bit sluggish.
View 6 RepliesVW Jetta SE 2.5L... Took my car to the dealer for a check engine light, the code came back P0106 which states I need my throttle valve cleaned and the dealer also said I need my brake vacuum pump replaced.. Do these go hand in hand? How should I proceed with the dealer? I have only 60,000 miles on my vehicle was there a recall on this issue? The dealer already updated the software in the technical bulletin.
View 2 RepliesOk first of all i know this sounds really stupid. I got curious of the intake system and I unbolted the tube that does down to the (turbo i think) anyways I figured it was the intake for the engine. Anyways I went for a quick little drive, and it was not the intake for the engine it was the for the turbo. The turbo sounded pretty loud and made a whoosh when the throttle was released. Cool. 2 min later the car shut off i started it back up drove home, and put every back the way it was suppose to be! and there is a check engine light. My question is... How do I reset the light myself instead of the dealer doing it, I thought i remembered how to do it somehow without anything. Btw was doing that anyway harmful?
View 4 RepliesI took my car in for the 10,000 mile service on friday. The tech noted that there is an active TSB for the 1.8 TSI engine that addresses an issue with the turbo engaging just before the shift from first to second gear resulting in a non-progressive throttle response. I told him that I didn't seem to really notice that issue, but to go ahead an install the software update anyway. He did. I'm surprised at the difference. The throttle is much more progressive and I feel like I have better control of the throttle. I highly recommend this update. This may also explain why the 2015 Passats with the same engine have a higher MPG rating than the 2014s. If this update prevents the turbo from coming on unnecessarily then that would certainly save on gas.
View 21 RepliesOur 2007 Passat 2.0T had the 30K service and the fuel pressure sensor and pressure regulating valve (PCV valve) recalls done several months ago. Several weeks ago the check engine light came on so we took it in to the dealer yesterday. By the way, the car also felt subtly sluggish, had a slightly unstable idle and sometimes seemed to "stick" in gear on deceleration (ie, not shift down normally).
Here are all the DTC codes that were stored:
P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P2187, P2279, P3138, 02635
The service adviser said the problem was that the recall valves that VW sent them were no good (I think he said it was the -F valve) and that they now have an updated valve.
The new part number is 06F-129-101-K
By the way, our Passat is driven "conservatively," ie, no high boost levels or anything else that would stress the PCV valve.
Going to attempt this repair myself to avoid paying the stealership. Previously drove an E46 bmw which by now I am an expert, but am not yet familiar with my VW.
View 6 RepliesI have this sensor unplugged. Is there a way to defeat this sensor so I don't pull this code?
View 3 RepliesI Have a 2000 Passat 30 valve v6. I got a low oil pressure message figured I could make it to the store for some oil. Well I turn a corner and heard a valve rattle and the car started to idle rough. I was two quarts low but the noise and the rough idle still exist. In neutral the noise is not noticeable. Driving the noise is only noticeable at high RPM. The car doesn't smoke and otherwise runs fine.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2007 Passat. The tire pressure sensor broke off at the valve stem. In checking with the dealer, I was told the tire pressure sensor and valve stem are all one unit. My question is if you can use a regular valve stem and attach the sensor to it, or do you have to get the entire unit with the valve stem and sensor together.
View 2 RepliesI am curious to see what you think. I had my car chipped by upsolute. For as long as I have had it and even when I took the chipping off, restoring my car to stock, i was getting pressure spikes, lousy throttle response and lousy gas mileage. For a while, I was going to the dealer every other week or so, trying to find out why my car was kicking into limp mode. Upsolute said it was the car and the dealership said it was the chipping.
Anyway last saturday I was inspecting my air filter and airbox (nice little pile of sand and a couple of leaves in there-I am sure that didn't work my mileage any). I moved the airbox a little and the hose which connects to the airbox underneath the air intake ductwork, fell off the airbox on its own. It was never clamped in place. I am told that is the hose that goes directly to the MAF Sensor.
My question, if all else is tight, do you think I have found the source of my over pressure and lousy gas mileage problems? The car certainly feels like it. I went and tightened up every hose connection I could find. My car feels like it has a new motor with a healthy growl to boot. Mileage appears to be up as well. What do you think? I thought about restoring my chipping but I wont do that.
One is that I have a very good extended warranty still in effect and don't want to risk losing it. They would love to hear the car is chipped. Then its good by policy. The other reason is that the guy who chipped it said he would put it back in but would not remove it if I am wrong. The dealership said they could not and would not restore my car to stock even though I cannot believe they don't have the tools around to do so.
Just wondering if I will know via a check engine light if when my Diverter valve may act up. I don't really want to add a boost gauge if I can let the onboard diagnostics do the work for me. So if I loose boost will I know?
View 8 RepliesSudden power loss experienced. CEL (Check Engine Light came on) and Glow Plug Light was flashing. Power loss is severe so really can't drive it anywhere. Turbo Failed at 5500 miles.
Mechanic quote: "Found code P0299 for turbo power under boost. Removed upper engine cover and intake hose. Checked turbo shaft and found play near intake side of turbo. Removed lower engine shield and lower hose to intercooler. Checked for metal. Contacted VW and created VTA. Instructed by VW to replace turbo. Did."
Sounds like service manager abbreviated when entering into the computer. In any case a shame that this car was in the shop for more than a week while the dilly dallied and waited for a turbo to be shipped in.
Some earlier turbo-fail threads from last summer stated dealer told them "bad batch" of turbos was being experienced by VW. Believable, particularly if they're banged out in China? Let's all hope it was a bad batch.
I have a 99 Volkswagen Passat 1.8 Turbo Automatic AEB engine. I recently did a rebuild on it and ever since I keep getting this code P0301 that says "cylinder 1 misfire". The engine is also running rich and the spark plug in cylinder 1 keeps getting gummed up. I've changed the coil and the spark plugs and the injectors and it works temporarily but then the problem keeps reoccurring.
View 7 RepliesThe CEL on my Passat came on. When I scanned it with VAG-COM, the following fault code was displayed:
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached
The car also felt like it lost its power in some way, especially when the turbo kicked in. So after some research, I found out that the Diverter Valve was causing this issue. Rubber diaphragm on original valve was made from rubber and was torn. I replaced it with upgraded valve and wow what a difference!!! Very easy to do, great write up link below.
DIY Diverter Valve Replacement for 2006 VW Passat 2.0T
I have a problem with my 1988 740 Turbo. It starts and runs fine, but when cold it experiences a drop every few seconds when idling. In other words, when idling cold, it will act as though the key was turned off but just before stopping completely it catches and continues to run.
I guess I'm trying to describe something other than rough running, or a poor idle - this is more like an ignition short where the engine completely stops (but never does). The tach needle shows this also. It continues doing this while accelerating around the neighborhood but once the car is at operating temp it smooths out. I live in San Diego so it never gets cold here.
The car was tuned up last year and the distributor was replaced at the same time. New cap, wires, plugs. Car has close to 290K and still runs great except for this issue.
I have a '07 Passat Wagon 2.0T with 80K miles. I just had the carbon scrubbed off the valves (looked like black popcorn stuck in there!) and now I'm getting a "P0327 Knock Sensor 1" light. The motor seems to run just fine (actually much better now without the carbon build-up). I'll clear the code but it will show up again the next day.
What could cause the code? Could it be related to the recent scrubbing (fully removed and replaced the valve cover in the process), perhaps a chunk of carbon floating around in the tubes somewhere? I want to go back to the guys that performed the service but I want to have a good idea of what could be the problem and the fix before I get there.
I have a 1999 B5 Passat GLS V6. It's been running well, though I had to replace the CCM last winter due to water intrusion. Recently, the battery needed replacing, and I swapped it out, then the car wouldn't restart normally. I can get it to start by holding a bit of throttle, but it still runs rough and won't idle. The Check Engine Light is on, and my OBDII reader gives me the P1545 code. The car will run in 'limp mode', but it maxes at about 15mph, and I need to keep a little throttle on constantly to keep it from stalling. I think I could make it the mile or two to the local VW dealer, but maybe late at night, with no traffic - it's certainly not driving normally, or even just 'poorly'.
A bit of Googling says that I need to do the Throttle Body Adaptation by opening the hood (and maybe the driver's door, turning the key to the 'run' position without starting the car, and then waiting for the whining noise that indicates the throttle servos are running through their range, and then I'll be fine. However, this procedure has not worked. Am I doing it wrong? Or does it not work with this make/model/year?
I walk up to the car, unlock it, pull the hood lever in the footwell, go open the hood fully, then sit in the driver's seat, leave the driver's door open a bit, and turn the key to 'run', without going all the way to 'start'. I've tried this procedure after clearing the code with my OBD reader, with and without cycling the key to off, and various other ways. If I can't make this work, then it's off to the VAG-COM list, and see if there's someone in North Seattle who can assist. I can also take it to the dealer, but I'm not thrilled about trying to drive it even that far.
I'm an Mk3 guy but I've gotten the hang of these beasts when I started to fix my brother's '99 B5 AEB. I got a VCDS scan from a friend and got this.
5 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-00 - -
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16507 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too High
P0123 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0101
I'm thinking either the throttle body is toast or maybe the ECU.
A few months ago my teg started idling a bit funny. Its got a chipped ECU and has always idled very low (500 - 750 rpm) once warm.
In the past few months however the revs have started fluctuation or surging. Basically once the engine is warm the revs drop right down to nearly 200 - 250 (the needle actually drops off so its hard to tell ), then the engine bounces back up to around 500 rpm. It then does this non-stop if I leave the throttle alone.
Ive found that resting on the throttle tends to solve the problem as I'm forcing the system to run constantly, however when letting off the throttle (or dropping out of gear), she drops right down gets really ragged then bounces back up to ~500. The drop and surge cycle takes roughly 2 seconds.
Ive taken it to an auto electrician who sat on it for 2 weeks and eventually shrugged his shoulders. I've heard that one factor could be the O2 sensor, however another camp has said ECU and yet another said throttle sensor.
Details of the car are:
94 Honda Integra (GS-R model)
B18C (Gen 1) motor - Enlarged throttle body, Gizmo chipped ECU, better breathing with a pod etc.
I was running some logs to put into virtual dyno and I noticed that on all three the throttle value angle drops down to 33.7% between 3280 to 3380 rpm. Then above 6000 rpm it start to drop from 99% down to 91%. Even though the accel pedal pos is reading at 99.6. Is this normal??
For these I only logged 054, 115 and 031.