Passat (B5) :: Driver Side Rear Door Lost All Electrical Power
Aug 4, 2007
I have intermittent power problems with the drivers side rear door. The lock, window and even the light under the door stop working. I know that it is a connection problem but wanted locating where connectors are. If I jiggle the wires going through the door it seems to sometimes connect and work. It seems that the connection problem is not in the door itself but somewhere in the car. Is there any connectors in the pillar or somewhere else and what is the best way to get it apart to work on the connections.
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1998 passat. the drivers side rear door functions don't work; the power window does not work and the power door lock does not operate in the door. the other 3 doors work fine- power windows and locks. I do not have the bentley for this car so I am working at a disadvantage; where does the power for the door come from? any kind of control box? relay? fuse?
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I had the Steering Column Module and the CCM done at the dealer last week. That being said would that have anything to do with the fact that I can't arm my antil theft system? All the door lock except for the rear drivers side door. When I hit the lock button on the remote I don't get any sort of audible signal. The horn doesn't beep and the lights don't flash. When i use the remote to unlock the doors, the lights do flash to signal that the doors are unlocked.
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Something inside my driver's side rear door is loose and keeps rattling every time the base hits. I tried to take the panel out but I broke one of the Clips. Any diagram or a DIY on how to access inside and figure out what the problem is?
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The rear driver side door on my Passat doesn't work right, it doesn't lock or unlock from the button on the front two doors....and the window only rolls down when that door is open and the car is running, how to fix?
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Strangely today my drivers side rear power door lock stopped working. Very annoying, can't unlock it electronically, and if its unlocked the rest of the car won't lock and the headlights won't go off.
I have to put it in anyways for the airbag seat rail TSB, but I was going to wait until my 40k service was due. This is too annoying to wait on since I put my briefcase and hang up my suit jacket in that seat...
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So i JUST got my timing belt replaced on my 2001 B5 Passat 4motion, took it in and got it done. Now when the tech was working on it he said that the car was slow cranking one day, and I have intermittantly seen the same thing before, but i have known for a while that I need a new battery, its old, and randomly have little power, but it has always worked once the car is started.
As soon as i picked the car up yesterday I got the "alternator workshop warning" and quickly the car started to act funny as systems lost enough power to not function correctly (abs light, brake light, etc). Now is there ANYTHING else this could be beside the alternator? fuses, wires, other faults, etc, etc.
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I drive a 2004 Ford Ranger. When I use the remote to unlock my truck, there is a grinding electrical sound, and the driver side door does not unlock. The passenger side does, though. Also, when I try to use my key to unlock the door, the driver's side door will not unlock with the key. I can open the driver's side door from the inside by using the handle, but the electric lock button will not unlock the door. It seems like the piece that pops up when the truck is unlocked has a hard time raising to unlock the door. Neither my boyfriend nor I can figure out what the problem is. I find that when I take my truck in for any problem, people at the dealership try to take advantage of the fact that I'm female and don't know much about cars. Need to know what is going on before I take it in anywhere to get fixed.
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
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My driver side rear door won't lock any way that I try to lock it. I have tried to lock it by using the lock/unlock contol button that locks or unlocks all of the doors at one time on the inside of the drivers door and it won't lock. I have tried to lock it by pushing the rubber button on the outside of the drivers door and it won't lock.
I am unable to move the lock button next to door handle in the inside of the door on the rear drivers side door. Which led me to check the child lock lever that one can see when they open the door. Moving child lock lever doesn't do anything either way it is set to change the problem. Also I am able to open the door from the outside or the inside.
All other doors lock and unlock properly. My question is when there is an actuator motor problem does that make it so that one is unable to move the lock/unlock button on the inside of that door?
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Learning how to operate my newly acquired 2004 V8 Phaeton...not too mention convincing me to purchase one. I think I even like its occassional quirkiness, such as TPMS faults - its like it has a personality.
Anyway, I have not found an answer to a problem which started yesterday:
- Rear driver-side door won't operate using outside handle
- Confirmed its unlocked, can open from inside & child locks (not that those should affect it) are off
- No problem opening passenger side rear door
- I think I hear a mechanism in the door moving when I pull the outside handle on the working side, don't hear it on the non-working door
I believe there is a cable which is attached to the door handle which may have come loose. I do have a VW Real Driver Warranty (10 Years)...and although door handles are specifically excluded, I don't think this is likely a "door handle" problem, but rather something inside the door which has broken.
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My brother lost power on his passenger side headlight. ONLY the low beam. Everything works fine... any wiring diagram, looking for the fuse.
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Started with rear door would not lock/unlock with key, but worked fine manually. Troubleshot and found little motor (actuator) was bad. Reassembled door until new part arrives. Closed the door and know will not open from inside or outside. Managed to remove door panel but still no luck.
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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Driver side rear door will not open by key, key fob or internal handle, 2007 model. Also is there an Haynes manual for this model....
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So far I have not been able to get the rear door open on the driver side. I was able to remove the plastic panel so I could see inside. The cable is attached to the handle, but not the latch mechanism at the bottom of the door. I have searched this and other sites and looked for pics on the internet...no luck yet.
Looking for an image of the latch mechanism for the driver barn door ... something that will hopefully show where the cable attaches and/or how I can manually (no cable attached) open the door.
Also, I am having issues with the door ajar light. I am almost certain that this is from the rear of the truck. Is the sensor for door ajar on the hatch, driver barn door, passenger barn door, more than one?
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