Passat (B5) :: No Power At All - Cannot Jump Start
Sep 20, 2009
Came out of day of work to find my passat dead. Couldn't unlock it with the remote..no lights...no power at all. Hooked up my friends car to jump it...got the lights to come on but could never get the car to get past the clicking/lights flickering stage.
Never had battery problems before this, so I am confused as to how it just totally died. Tried for a long time to jump it....no luck. As soon I as I would unhook the other car, mine would die completely and I would have no lights, locks, anything.
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My son has a 1999 VW Passat Wagon with a 1.8 turbo 230,000 miles. He came home from work, parked his car and the next morning for school it did not start. He inserted the key and turned it and the engine would not crank. All dash lights worked and such. He did notice the power window were not working and the interior lights either. He jump the car and worked fine, until he shut it off, and again needed a jump to start.
I looked at it, battery and alternator tested fine, battery is only a year old. the car now randomly will start on it own or not, even with a jump. I had no codes pop up on the computer scan. I am hearing things like climate control module and another fuel module in trunk and water issues. I was told to check connect at starter and change iginition switch. Have not done the ignition switch yet will need to get car up on block for starter as my son has lowered the car quite a bit. I had the computer codes checked by a VW tech and he seems stumped too.
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I drove my 2006 Passat 2.0T at night a few days ago. And I forgot to shut off the light. It came out that my battery was drained completely. After doing a jump start under my friend's assistance, I was able to run it again. But my radio remains dead, meaning it won't turn on by all means.
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2006 prius. Yesterday gave a jump to a friend with a motorcycle. After I got back in the car, no electricity whatsoever. Jumped my prius using another car, started fine and drove home, no warning lights. Same thing though after turning the car off, no electricity at all, can't start it.
Eventually figured out that I had blown the 120A fuse, so replaced it and the car starts fine now. But... I get the triangle with the exclamation point, and the car with the exclamation point on the mfd. What might be causing this? Battery reads 12.5v with car off. I find it a little strange that I didn't get any warning lights when I jump started it, but do now that it starts from its own 12v battery.
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THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
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2003 F250 crew cab 6.0 ... Where are the main problem areas on the ficm wiring harness truck will start and run great at times and at times it just start and misfire lope jump and buck it has to be a short I've changed the icp and crank / cam sensors some days it runs fine had issue with alternator replaced it.
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My F150 4X4 would not start a few days ago, after only having turned it off a few minutes prior. The gauges would sweep wildly and get stuck at various positions. I checked the fuses and they were fine, then unplugged the battery for a bit and it started back up. Occasionally it won't start and i'll have to disconnect the battery again to get it to start.
I'm still having some strange electrical issues though. The radio no longer turns on unless the ignition is turned to AUX. My back up alarm for going in reverse doesn't come on anymore. The gauges take at least 10 seconds to wake up after starting the truck. The dashboard blinker indicators will randomly stop blinking or making any noise. I was thinking it could be the computer, but could it be something else?
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Have great difficulty getting the car to jump start. Got it running briefly, clicked fob lock unlock system to break the anti theft interlock with doors left unlocked. Tried to put it in gear and it died. Cannot get it to jump start again. The hatch lock has no manual override to open it that I can find.
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I have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...
Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.
When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.
All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...
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I have a 2001 Saturn sl. Within the past two weeks I've been having issues with my car needing jumped to start. I've replaced the starter last year. The battery is only a few months old and have had the alternator checked. I put my car in neutral and my car died...
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My 12V battery is dead- not sure what happened, I usually double press the lock button to turn the headlights off immediately. It seemed odd- the taillights were on, but not the headlights and all interior dome lights were on but dim. I certainly did not get the 'door open' warning beep when I left the car.
The car is completely dead - no power locks, interior lights etc. I tried to jump start it using the fuse box jumper plate, but was not successful. I have heavy duty jumper cables and it seemed like they only contacted the jump plate at one singular point, but that was the best I could do. It was touching, just only one point on the 'teeth' was physically on the front metal part. I waited a full 5 minutes with the donor car revving and tried to start it, but nothing at all. (And yes, I was + red to + red) I tried to adjust the cable on the plate a few times, but could not get any better of a grip. No dashboard light or anything ever came on- the car was just as dead.
What could the problem be? Should I try smaller cables for a better connection with the plate? How long should it generally take while revving the donor car? Or is this something more sinister?
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been having problems with my optima yellowtop that is less than 1 year old. Sometimes my car starts fine, sometimes it won't until I jump it.
Spoke to Bernie from elearnaid (who I bought it from) and he says with my short driving habits (10min to work, 10min home) that the battery isn't getting a full charge from my engine because of the short commute...
also now my immobilizer (smart key) won't unlock doors without using keyfob or start car without keyfob in slot...
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I'm having my 2008 Prius for around 16 months no. Yesterday, after work I got in the car to drive home as usual, I put the key, pressed the brake pedal and the Power button, noticed that the dashboard lights come ON, I opened the four windows as it was too hot inside the car, then I noticed that the radio doesn't work and the display screen as well. I thought I haven't pressed the brake pedal enough so I pressed the power button again, and the car stopped. I tried to restart it , but with no luck, now all the windows are open and I couldn't close them and couldn't get the car starting. I pressed the lock button on the key to lock them, but it didn't do anything.
I waited for around 1.5 hour till my brother and his friend came, and they said it might be the 12V battery, once they put the charging cables between the two cars, mine started to operate. This hadn't happen to me and it was really a not nice experience. They told me to try it today morning, if it doesn't work, then the battery might need a replacement.
Today morning it worked fine, but I noticed that the Auto feature of the driver's window is not working and that the speedometer is giving wrong value (approx. lower by 20 K/hr).
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My mechanic and friend noticed my axle was starting to fail about a few weeks ago and Ive just been waiting to get it taken care of when I have time. Last night my battery died and I got a jump start. After the jump I get in and drive down the street a little ways and notice the ESP light came on. She was also running a little rough at idle and I started getting nervous. So instead of getting my Micky Dees I turned around and went home. Of coarse this happens at 3am the night before I have to open up at work at 11.. This mourning I get in the car and warm her up to see how shes acting. I decided to still drive her because I had no other option. The MIL light popped on now too and I think its related to my axle failing. So im wondering I guess how much longer I have til this thing completely goes and what would happen if it went while I was driving? Ive never had to replace an axle before or and an issue with one so this is a subject I know very little about. Also is it worth it to get RAXLES for stock?
So after my battery died like I said I got a jump start from my buddy and after I jumped it the car seems to rev at idle now. Freaked me out! Would all the sudden start revving to 2k rpm and then stop. When I drove it to work almost every time I stopped it would rev a little bit but when I gas it it would stop. After doing research there are a few conclusions I have reached. First I read it could be a throttle body sticking? Then I read the jump start could have fried my ecu or it could be a simple as a loose wire to the motor from a bypass valve?
Im not sure if the jump start did anything bad. Its possible its a coincidence still but my car was fine before the jump. Also on a side note my ecu was already flashed when I purchased the car. The flash is from EIP I believe because there is a eip sticker on the battery case. Personally I think the MIL light is related to the axle but the weird idling is what scares me.
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I have a 2003 E450 Ford truck based C-Class motorhome with a 6.8 liter V-10. My truck would not start, and could not be jumped by two AAA tow vehicles. The truck was towed 15 miles to a store that sold batteries, and fired up without problems after a new battery was installed. My local Ford dealer says they have no problems jump starting Ford trucks. Other than the V-10, why would one be unable to jump start this truck?
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I was recently left stranded in a mall parking lot by my 2007 Saturn Ion when it wouldn't start. After getting a jump from roadside assistance, I was told the battery needed to be replaced. I thought nothing of it since its a 2007 and has been driven between Virginia and Pennsylvania for the past four years fairly regularly. After a new battery was installed Sunday afternoon and the car started perfectly and was driven around all day Monday, I was shocked when I was once again left stranded in the parking lot at work Tuesday afternoon, again with a car that wouldn't start at all (there was no "clicking" either). The keys would get stuck in the ignition and I'd have to remove them by pushing the tiny button under the steering wheel. The new battery was tested again at the shop and they found nothing wrong with it and couldn't explain why it wouldn't start at all the previous afternoon but started and ran fine two days prior.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata with about 100,000 miles. Recently, it started doing funny things when I tried to start it. It would take a few tries, sometimes, or it might start immediately- very unpredictable. Someone suggested I try starting it in neutral, so I did that. It seemed to work for awhile, so the idea was maybe it was a switch in the car that can go funny and make it so the car won't start in park. Switch replaced, so everything's fine, right? No, still not starting on the first try. I took it to a car parts store to get the battery tested. The guy said, the battery is shot and is definitely the problem (he also said the starter was okay and he thinks alternator is also okay).
So I bought a brand new battery and had it put in... STILL NOT STARTING! Sometimes it will start in neutral, sometimes in park. It does not seem dependent on the temperature, the amount of time it's been since it was last started, or anything else that I can figure. However, if it is hooked up to a jump start, it will start immediately with no problem, in park. New switch, new battery. Is it likely the alternator? I'm trying to figure out how big of a hit this might be to my checking account. Other than this problem, the car runs perfectly. I'm confused that people keep diagnosing a problem and it still doesn't work. And that I might have replaced parts that weren't broken to begin with.
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I haven't been able to successfully jump my 2010 Prius. It sat for about a month and the 12v battery is dead. I've connected everything up as described in the manual. I've kept the second car at about 2K RPM for about 5 minutes to charge the Prius. I am able to get the Prius to start up just fine, but as soon as I disconnect the jumper cables, it dies right away. I've tried getting the Prius engine to come on for several minutes, but as i understand it, there's no alternator, so that's probably not charge the 12V battery.
I've gone through this cycle about three times now with the same results. Every posting I've seen doesn't indicate anything special needed after you disconnect the cables. Is there something I'm missing?
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Why my stereo stopped working? I had to jump start my car, 2005 Passat TDI (B5) and now the stereo will not turn on. I checked the fuse on the drivers side, they were all good, say which fuse is for the stereo..
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My speedometer is stopped working... I am driving and it will usually stay at zero, but it will jump time to time for example..
I took a video to explain it better with great detail, as you can see I am doing like 50mph, but my speedometer says other wise.
[URL] .....
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I have the 2000 passat 1.8L 4 cylinder with the tiptronic shifting. The car has been shifting less smoothly both upshifting and down. I have noticed that if you are going fast and slow suddenly, say for a light and the downshifting does not go smoothly the vehicle can lurch/jump even if the brakes are firmly applied.
What may be causing this issue. I recently sold my MKIV which was a great car and we are now starting to have small problems with this passat with 104,000 miles on it. It does not intuitively feel that the tranny is worked over yet, but I would like to avoid any expensive repairs/replacement. I have done everything from suspension, door replacement, clutches and timing belts on other vw's. So I am hoping to tackle this myself.
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