Yesterday we had the first hot day this year. Until now, we had up to ~20C, but yesterday it reached 35C (~95F). I have noticed that the car seems.....a bit more lazy. The shifting seems to take longer (higher rpm) and the power seems a bit down compared to a colder day. Is this normal?
View 11 RepliesOver the past couple of days, my wife and I have been noticing that our B6 (2.0 Auto/Tip) is shifting at around 4000 rpms. I'll probably be taking it in to have the dealer look into it but wanted to see if the community has experienced anything similar to the issue at hand.
It shifts (Appox):
1st into 2nd - 3200 rpms
2nd into 3rd - 3800 - 4200 rpms
3rd into 4th - 3500 rpms
4th into 5th - 3000 rpms
5th into 6th - 2500 rpms
Notes:
* the appox amounts above are at regular driving acceleration.
* while in Drive - "D" mode
* used to shift into all gears between 2500-2900 rpms
* doesn't shift nearly as smooth as in the past
Is it OK to slip into "Sport" from "Drive" while Driving? How about slipping into Tiptronic while using "D" or "S"?
[URL]......
Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
View 7 RepliesA few weeks back I had problems getting the hatch to close on my wagon w/ the power button, then it started working again. Today, tried to close the hatch w/ the button and nothing happened. It opens fine from the buttons on the key fob, driver's door and hatch, it just won't close. Is it most likely the button that needs to be replaced or something else?
View 6 RepliesI noticed my engine would rev up higher before up shifting which is what I always wanted in "D" after I took back my car from the 20K service. Drivetrain Reprogrammed. Now my car is feels a lot more responsive than before.
View 9 RepliesI have an auto transmission 98 nissan pathfinder that I bought brand new way back (in 1998 of course) that seems to have problems shifting into higher gears. When I'm going on a level hwy, I'll get going to 70mph and see the engine rev to 4000 rpm's. It'll stay there for a while (minutes to 10's of minutes). Then the engine will shift to a higher gear and the rpm goes to 2500. Then it shifts back so rpm is 4000. This happens back and forth unpredictably. When it's reving at 4000 rpms I tried letting my foot off the gas and the rpm's drop to less than 1000 like there's no load the transmission. Then I press the gas pedal again and the rpm jumps back to 4000 rpm's. I've had the transmission checked a few times and found nothing. I've changed the transmission fluid, had a major tune up, changed the timing belt, but it still happens. People keep telling me it must be happening on a slight grade but, no, it's on a flat road. There is no 'problem light' that appears either (like a check engine light). I've driven many other cars and they don't do this.
View 12 RepliesI have a BMW 523i SE AUTO (1997) 2494 Petrol. In auto transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but won't shift any higher. In steptronic/manual transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 5th without any problems therefore suggesting that the problem isn't the gearbox itself. Only very occasionally does the shift electronics telltale light appear on the dash, yet the problem with the auto transmission is continuous. A local garage specializing in automatics suggested that it was the gearbox inhibitor. I've today had this changed but the problem still exists.
View 5 RepliesShifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
Had a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
I have a 2012 elantra limited about 9 month's old with about 14,000 miles on it.
About a week ago I began noticing a burning smell. I first chalked it up to being 1,000 over the 3k mark for an oil change. However I then started to pay attention when I parked if there was any sign of fluids leaking. At first I didn't notice any or seemed like one or two drips. Well tonight I noticed a larger puddle that was def not water.
The other symptom is that it's been shifting up at higher RPMs. Tonight when I got on the freeway I was trying to speed up to 65 but the rpm gauge had me at over 4,000 rpms with normal acceleration...I was not gunning it. I also could not get the car to go past 60 at first, all the while the rpm increasing still, until I let off the gas then hit it again and seemed to trip it to shift and was able to get to 65.
I have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
View 12 RepliesWhen not using the manual mode of the DSG...What are the differences between driving in D and S? It seems like the car shifts more aggressively in S mode, allowing higher rpms before it shifts. Are their any other pros/cons to the different driving modes when in automatic, And what do most drivers prefer?
View 15 RepliesI have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
View 4 RepliesShifts slowly or stays in shifting mode longer than necessary. Must stop accelerating and wait a few seconds until the shifting is complete. Does something need adjusting?
View 6 RepliesMy 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
I have a 2000 VW Passat GLX with the Monsoon system. 3 weeks ago I had a Kenwood x 696 installed by Car Toys and everything is great.
That is until I turn my car off for over 24 hours.. at that point it no longer starts. When I had my stock radio in there were times that I would leave my car off 2 to 4 days at a time and never had any issues.
I had the battery tested and there are no issues. Then I got all of the electronics checked out and it was determined that the Monsoon amp was staying on when the car is turned off.
On Saturday I took the car back to Car Toys and they told me that it was not the stereo. They found something that told them to reset the amp by pulling the fuse and that most likely that would fix the issue. This was Saturday and my car didn't start today.
I blew a fuse yesterday replacing wiring on my door, and my car wouldn't start, the alarm light blinked but never sounded, and my trunk no longer latches. i replaced the fuse, and all of my problems were fixed, minus the trunk latch. it's clearly electrical, it's not recognizing that it needs to latch closed when being shut. I'm about to blindly just double check for the possibility of another blown fuse, but after that, I'm stuck.
View 2 Replies02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
View 5 RepliesMy 2013 Passat SEL TDI has 40,000 miles on the clock and in the past few months I've noticed it's taking longer to start blowing cold air. I've had several summers already so I'm already used to it's performance in the hot summer months but this summer has been different. The A/C will not blow any cold air at all before the car gets going under load (it didn't need engine load before) and sometimes it just won't blow cold at all but just barely "cool" air. I'll sometimes be driving for a half hour and never get the A/C to really blow cold.
Other times, it'll blow just fine. It's the hit and miss performance that has me confused. I then bought one of those refrigerant bottles from an auto parts store that comes with a gauge to see if maybe I have lost refrigerant or it's low but when I checked the gauge the pressure was exactly where it needed to be. I just came off that dreaded 40K service at the dealership and am trying to avoid going back there at all costs...
Question for the group. I've searched on this and found a few others had the issue but didn't see a definitive cause listed. Both front doors no longer can be unlocked from the outside of the car (interior handles still work). It started with the driver's side and then an hour later "spread" to the passenger side front door. What would seem to be specific cause. I don't know much about the mechanisms that control the electronic locks (or even where they are housed) so need to know the cause and remedy for this.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion 7.3, 6 position tune, and exhaust as far as mods (on truck when bought). Last couple of weeks I get no power while on the throttle, foot on the gas and the whole truck shakes at higher speeds - 40mph and above. At first it wouldn't go above 60 or so, would hit the gas and Rpms would just stop not be able to generate any further power. Changed the IPR, ICP, and CPS.
I still get the high/low range ICP codes, P1280, P1281. First night the IPR was changed I got it up to 90mph and thought it was all solved but got a little shake right at the top and I let off the gas. Next day back to square one and has seemed to get progressively worse, almost wasn't able to make it up a hill by my house not even going 20mph, but it's like intermittent. I have a scan tool, here is at idle and at around 60mph ....