OK, I recently purchased a 2009 Passat 2.0 & love the car with the exception of one thing that's driving me crazy. When slowly accelerating & the RPM's are between 2-3000 rpm there's a loud buzzing noise from the engine. (Sounds like a kazoo) Again, it only happens when accelerating slowly & will happen at all speeds.
View 8 RepliesI have a 99 VW Passat, it is making a loud buzzing noise as I accelerate to speeds above 20-25mph. The noise sounds like a baseball card in your bike spokes (or a room fan) does. The noise disappears when I push the clutch in. Here's the really weird part: when revving the engine as it's parked in neutral, there's no sound. What the heck is going on?
View 3 RepliesFor a week now, my car whistle pretty loudly (I can hear it windows closed) when accelerating. After reading about 2.0t problems, I thought it was either a bad DV or PCV. I tried to diagnose if my problem was related to a bad pcv. So I disconnect the tube going from the intake to the pcv and plug the hole on the intake. Then I went for a ride and it whistle like before...so does this test confirm that my pcv isn't my problem?
As of now, I never saw traces of oil around the oil filler cap. When the engine is running, as soon as I press on the accelerator(even lightly), the whistle begin. As soon as I remove my foot, it whistle for a second then it stop. At a stop, if I press on the accelerator, the whistle will begin at only 5500 rpm and up.
No CEL so far related to lost of boost(I had a cel last week and they change fuel sensors and regulator). Also, the car pull pretty constantly but seem less powerful than before.
So this phenomenon only happens when I try to rapidly open my throttle but what happens is that I feel a huge bucking in the rear while I'm accelerating.
This bucking makes a loud thud noise and I was wondering if this is normal considering the circumstances under which this occurs.
If I can guess what's happening I think my engine doesn't have enough air and when I rapidly push down the accelerator I'm trying to force in air and fuel and the result is a rapid combustion which causes the bucking effect that I'm experiencing.
Not sure if normal or a malfunction. Twice over the winter here in MN I have been accelerating and when I hit a icy patch the car made a loud thump/clunk noise loud enough to make be think something broke or that I ran over something like an ice block.
I had it looked at by the dealer and everything is suppose to be working normal. I tried to replicate ite on some ice but the traction control kicks in like normal with the flashing and all. I don't normally accelerate hard so it's rare I get traction control to activate.
Car is TDI SE
For the past few months I've been hearing a loud fan-like buzzing noise coming from the passenger side of the front of the car. I don't know that much about cars, but it almost sounds like the engine is racing or something is spinning too fast. It has gotten increasingly worse, and seems especially loud at high speeds on the highway.
It is not the heating/cooling fan - the noise is present when the heating/cooling system is turned off.
04 BMP GLI, 135000kms
This odd noise just started today. Whenever i accelerate at any rate, an odd "buzzing" sound occurs. It almost sounds like a diesel... Boost is not holding as it should, and I get exhaust backfires in first, second, and third gear. Makes no noise when i lay off the throttle, only when i touch the gas... I don't have a VAG-com, I'm thinking a exhaust leak or boost leak.
K04 turbo
Unitronic Stg 2+
Eurojet side mount intercooler
Milltek 2.5"
Evolution Motorsports intake
FX350 clutch
Wavetrac limited slip diff
I have an '08 Civic Mugen and recently replaced my HID's. Soon after I noticed a buzzing noise that gets louder as I accelerate.
View 2 RepliesI've suddenly developed a loud buzzing noise from my air-con system. I checked the hmaservice website, but the images don't look anything like what I have behind my glove box. I have a right-hand drive vehicle.
hmaservice says to remove the outside-air/recirc cable, and the picture shows this coming in from the left, where the center console would be on a LHD car. Mine comes in from the right of course. That is where the mirror imaging ends!
The service pages say that the filter sits behind this cable, and there's some sort of "hook" to remove to open a flap for the filter. There's no hook or anything like the images on my car.
I am having a strange issue with this vehicle that the dealership can't figure out but it doesn't surprise since here they are a bunch of idiots there anyways....well here it goes....when i start the vehicle there is a fairly loud "buzzing" noise coming from the drl module mounted on the front right side fender, the module feels like the relay inside is clicking extremely fast but not actually staying on, the drl's do not come on however the high beam indicator on the dash is illuminated. This will go away when i turn on the low beams, but i still have no high beams. There is a slight flicker within all the interior lights and headlights which leads me to believe there is a ground issue. I am unable to obtain any schematics for this part of the electrical system to be able to back probe and try to isolate the issue.... The vehicle seems to be fine as long as you turn the low beams on as soon as you start it other then the slight flicker in the lighting inside and out.....
View 3 RepliesI just got a 2009 lexus gs 350 everything is perfect except when i go into reverse and back up slowly the brakes make a loud squeaking noise!! Its really annoying and embarrassing. I got the rotors resurfaced and nothing.
View 3 RepliesI took my first road trip last weekend in my new-to-me 2010 Tiguan. At speeds over 70mph, there is a quite loud buzzing noise from the front of the roof area. It sounds like 2 pieces of metal are slapping together at a very high rate of speed. I can't for the life of me figure out what it could be. It is really, really annoying. So much so, that I may take another car for my NYC to Florida trip next month. I'd really like to take the Tiguan though...
I have the panoramic roof - it all seems tight and has no rattles whatsoever. There are no loose moldings, no gaps in the windshield molding. The roof rails appear to be tight, however the front of the right one is slightly raised off of the roof surface. I was going to try to tighten it somehow, but don't know how to even access the screws that hold it down.
My 2001 VW New Beetle has started making a loud, whining noise coming from outside the car along w/ some buzzing whenever I am driving. I find that I have to change gears about 10 miles sooner than I should in order to stop the noise. But now it's happening in 5th gear occasionally too, and of course I can't go to a higher gear to make it shut up. What could this mean?
View 3 RepliesJust a note to mention that last Friday my fiance was driving her'13 F150 with Ecoboost (73,000 mi) and heard a "loud" pop when accelerating then engine lost power. She called me so I had her restart it and all seemed fine- but drove 1/2 mile and same thing. Called Ford roadside service- got a tow within 30 min to dealer down road.
Turns out they had to replace the throttle body. Fortunately I have the Ford Extended Warranty thru 125,000. This was the second significant failure for the truck- first was a leaking A/C Evaporator which required pulling the entire dash. I won't keep this truck beyond the extended warranty.
I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. A couple of weeks ago I put the car in reverse and I started hearing this loud buzzing noise coming from the rear window area. I narrow it down to the rear window sunshade. It also makes this noise when pressing the button to lower the shade and maybe sometimes rising it. I know it has something to do with the relay or motor when the signal is sent to it to lower it, because a lower the shade signal is sent when the car is put into reverse or button is pushed. How to find the motor or relay without taking the rear seat out. Right now I would rather just disconnect it to stop the annoying buzzing noise. Where can I find a service/maintence manual to maybe find out how to disconnect it.
View 14 RepliesI'm convinced my 02 honda civic does not like traffic nor hot weather. Whenever i'm in traffic for more than 20 minutes (which is about everyday) it starts to make this loud buzzing noise. Seems to be the way my car is telling me that it does not want to be in traffic. I can sure relate. Me neither. When the weather gets hot, my car does the same thing. Can you relate to my car as well?
View 7 RepliesBackground: I brought my R in for service last week because the AC stopped working. I ended up needing the compressor and the fans replaced. I picked my car up and drove it home with no problems. The next day I drove it I started to hear a rather loud buzzing noise that sounded like something was rattling loose from the front passenger side of the car behind the dashboard. It was loud enough to hear over the stereo while driving on the freeway.
Thinking something was wrong with the newly installed fans I brought the car back to the dealership and now they're telling me the fuel pump needs to be replaced. From what I understand, the fuel pump is in the back of the car under the rear seats and attached to the gas tank. I explained to them that I'm a bit confused because the sound is clearly coming from the front of the car but the mechanic there insists what I'm hearing is the fuel pump. Am I crazy or does what they're saying sound reasonable?
I tried looking at a couple YouTube videos that had sound of a VR6 fuel pump gone bad but the sound was nothing like what I was hearing.
My 2002 outback tape deck, which I use primarily to listen to my phone via a cassette adaptor, has recently started making a very loud buzzing/humming noise. It does this with both my old and a new adaptor, as well as a standard audio tape.
I could try using a head cleaner on the tape deck, but my impression is that this isn't what typically would happen if the head needs cleaning, and I don't particular want to waste the time and money on a solution that I'm pretty sure isn't going to work, but I'm asking you all in case you know better than me (a real possibility). I just don't know if I should try that first, or if I should just go out and purchase a new car stereo that has either blue tooth, or an audio input plug so I can directly plug the phone in that way.
Also if I do go the way of replacing the stereo, is that generally a straightforward process? And would most replacement stereos be compatible with my vehicle, or do I need to be selective?
I bought my 2014 Corolla new a little over 3 years ago. Yesterday, when I was leaving work to head home I went to start my car and I was just met with my starter making a loud buzzing noise. My lights in my car, car fob, and etune radio were all working properly, but the car was just not able to start! My coworker told me that he heard of a trick where if you knock on the starter with something while trying to start it, it might give it enough of a kick to get going. Whether or not it was coincidence, it did work.
I was able to drive home, about 15 minutes (still daylight, did not need car lights), with no trouble. When I got home I turned my car off and waited for a few seconds and tried to start again. It worked, but it sounded like it struggled. I did it one more time and it failed with that same noise again. I resolved that I would just go get a new battery in the morning.
In the morning, my car was able to start, albeit with some struggle again. I made it all the way to work, and over lunch I was able to start it again and drive it to AutoZone to have them test the battery starter alternator. They told me the battery was too depleted to test it, so I went across the street to Walmart and bought a new battery. After replacing it, the car started like a champ as expected, and I drove back to Autozone to have them test my alternator and starter. The starter came back good, but they said that there was a fault in the test with the alternator. I gave them my old battery and asked them to trickle charge and test it just to see if it happened to still be a good battery that was just losing charge, or if it really was just a dying battery.
Tried to start my truck after sitting for 2 days in sub zero weather. wouldn't crank. pulled the batteries and charged them over night. Tried to start it the next day-wouldn't crank but the starter relay clicked. Was going to pull the starter and check it but decided to replace the relay first. replaced it and tried to start but now have no power to the cab-nothing comes on. I've checked the batteries with a load tester and they are ok. I've checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. when I tried to start it and the relay clicked there was a loud buzzing noise that seemed to be coming from under the dash. it has done this before but this time was louder than usual. I live out in the sticks so taking it somewhere is a last resort. It is a 1999 7.3 with 290000 miles.
View 14 RepliesOur 2009 SEL is equipped with the RNS-510 but no bluetooth. This is an early US model. Upon leaving for work yesterday and a few moments after openning the door to get inside the car, a buzzing static noise started playing from all of the speakers. Imagine white noise with a bee hive and that is the sound. The noise started before we put the key in the ignition. The noise stopped momentarily as we cranked the starter, but continued afterward. Turning on the RNS510 resulted in muffled sound like music inside a can on top of the static. Turning the unit on/off didn't change anything. Turning the motor on/off did nothing to change anything.
For the 20 minute drive to work the noise continued. My wife parked the car and the sound continued as she went into work. At the end of the day, upon returning to the vehicle the noise was gone and has not come back.
This is the second time in about 2 years this has happened. I scanned for codes and didn't get any. We have an iPhone video of it (not sure how to post that) to share at the next service. Currently the vehicle has 37,000 miles (relatively trouble free).