Passat (B6) :: Car Doesn't Start After Adding Fuel
Sep 20, 2013
Ok, quick info on my car, 2006 2.0t, 76k miles. I'm all caught up on recalls, and just replaced the ignition coils and spark plugs last week.
Anyway this has been happening for a few months now. Whenever I add fuel to the car (1 gal or a full tank and everything in between) It won't start immediately after. It almost acts flooded at first, just chugs a few times, I have to attempt to start it 2 or 3 times then it'll run rough for 3-4 seconds and then be all fine. No other issues till the next time I fuel up. I do have a light on throwing a code about my cooling system but I need to get someone with a vag con to read it..
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My 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
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I have a Mazda 3 5-door and I believe it is a 2010 model year, with between 50k-70k miles. I've been, I believe, consistent with regular maintenance schedules, and this is the first issue I've had, and I've been having it for a bit of time now (a few weeks). I've tried various things to try and understand the issues that bring it up.
First, I don't remember if this started before or after, but my "Check Engine" light popped on. I brought it in to have the code read and it was the one for the gas cap not being on properly. The person reset the diagnostic code, tightened the cap, and I went on my way.
A few hours later it came back. Okay, but that's not the issue, and I mention it only because of the other things I've observed.
The real problem is, after I've been driving for "awhile" at highway speeds, and I add fuel, the car has a very difficult time starting. I have to really press the accelerator down to get it to start, and even then it can take a good 5 seconds of holding the key to "start".
Things I've noticed:- If I fill up at the start of a trip, so that the car hasn't been running long, I can fill up and the car starts immediately.- I thought it might be a problem with fuel spilling over into the overflow, so I've added less fuel (so I ended with the needle pointing between 3/4 and full) but it still had trouble starting- After I start it, it runs rough for a bit and I feel like I have to rev it to keep it from stalling, though I haven't left it to idle to see if it actually will stall.- After the difficult start, if I drive as little as down a city block, turn the car off, and back on, it has no trouble starting, nor does it stutter like it does when I fill it up.- If I take a long drive but don't add any fuel, it starts up right away.
I've always used 87 octane fuel, which seems to work fine, and I feel as though that's the recommended grade, isn't it? I also try to fill it up when the needle reads 1/4 of a tank or a bit more, but I do notice that, if I allow the pump to auto-shutoff the car will accept 9-10 gallons (and I thought it was a 10.5 gallon tank, which is less than 1/4 left... I'm not sure how bad that is...)
What it could possibly be? Or even additional tests I could try to narrow it down?
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My 2006 FSi Passat is having problem starting every time I put gas in it. It starts fine at other times only hard after adding gas. What could be wrong?
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2.0T's having problems with fuel rails or fuel pump at 30,000 miles using GIAC chip. Just got back from induktion motorsports with a friend. He was having problems with fuel cut at about 4500 rpms. Holds boost up to 22lbs for some reason and then just drops down holding no boost at certain rpms between 5th and 6th gear getting on it. Car doesn't go past 80 mph until the turbo comes back (When it wants to) guys up at induktion said its prob the fuel rail or pump. They ran three different tests on the car and car still ran the same using the chip program (93 octane) and stock mode.
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Just replaced the fuel pump in my 99 Suburban. Replacement is an AC Delco unit. When I tried to start it, nothing. Engine turns over but doesn't start. Checked all connections and getting voltage down to new harness. replaced relay from GM dealership and also fuel filter. I used to hear the old pump prime when turning on the ignition but don't hear anything with the new pump. Could it be a bad pump out of the box?
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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My car does not start (cranks only) after I clean the fuel injector and intake manifold.
so I check the spark with tester and it is fine.then I check the fuel pressure with tester and the pressure shoots to over 42 psi without starting (normal between 38 and 46 psi) and slowly drops to 10 psi. I install fuel injector (FI) with new o-ring and gasket and there is no leakage aroung them. the fuel pressure regulator is ok. I got one from junk yard and the test show the same.
I notice there is some gas inside TB and only way to leak the gas is the FI body valve. I took all FI out and notice #2 and #3 are wet on the FI nozzle tip and use small string to push air through and can see some fluid coming out from the nozzle tip.
I thought I clean it well and do not know if this can be fixed by more cleaning. the resistance is all the same at 12.6 ohms under room temp at night in north CA.
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So my truck felt gutless somtimes, wouldn't start Every couple days , and Fuel gauge stops at half tank won't show full, so I went n bought a new fuel pump..... Well shoot nothing changed . I guess my next move is pull the dash off n fix gauge? It used to be a reliable truck . Now Im not comfortable to let wife drive it . I also pulled the chip to see if that had to do with not starting, also theft light blinks normal. I'm going to get some connector grease n redo all of my wires to c if there's just connection issues.
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My '07 Passat 3.6L with 107k miles.
It's a short story luckily haha. Every single time I refuel the car, I have to hold the key in the start position for about 10 seconds before the car actually starts running. This ONLY happens when the car has just been refueled. It does manage to start every time but only after the starter has been cranking for about 10 seconds.
I'm thinking of ordering a new fuel filter at the same time I order some maintenance parts for my .:R32 but I don't think the fuel filter is the issue. I'm also going to order new spark plugs soon but unfortunately they're not available from the place I'm ordering the other parts from.
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2001 V6 passat. the clutch doesn't start to grab until it is almost all the way up. there is maybe 1/2 inch of pedal travel where the clutch is actually grabbing. how much travel should there be when the clutch is actually grabbing?
This is a hydraulic clutch setup, right? so i was thinking best case scenario, it needs fluid or to be bled for air, worst is a new slave cylinder. 100K miles on it, engine ran strong and the clutch didn't slip at all.
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I have a 1999 4DR V6 Passat and today was not my day. I got to work around 8am this morning, and parked. Forgot my window was down, so I turned the ignition on to roll up the driver's side window like normal, and the window does not go up. In fact, no window will go up or down. I have full power, from what I can tell. All lights work, radio works, AC works, etc... Door locks and my alarm doesn't work either.
This also boggled my mind; the car wont start?!? The car won't even crank. It doesn't even want to try to start. This all happened at the same time. What could have happened? The battery has 12.8 volts and the car drove fine on the 1 hour commute. I disconnected the battery and reconnected hoping to reset anything that may have happened. But that didn't work.
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I own a 2007 Hyundai santa fe. Whenever I add fuel to the gas tank, be it 5gal-10gal or filled the engine will run real rough for 3-4 minutes after doing so. All other times the engine runs fine. This only happens when I add fuel to the tank.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer EXT V6 Votex that hesitates to start only after I put fuel in it. It doesn't matter if I fill it up or put in a couple of gallons. It's been going on for some time now, but is starting to get worse. My fuel pump went out before it started, but I had that replaced and the problem still persists. Someone tried replacing the solenoid switch but this did nothing. When I ask, people are telling me they haven't heard of that problem before. I have been to different gas stations just to conclude it wasn't bad fuel, but still the problem is there. I have 193,xxx miles but I'm not ready to let it go anytime soon. How I can get this resolved?
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I'm ordering the parts to add fog lights onto my TDI SE and want to increase the light output so that I can drive with the Audi style LED headlights in the parking light setting with the fogs on and still see where I'm going. I have a few questions regarding the setup:
1) Since it is an aftermarket setup on my SE do I need to get a CANBUS HID kit or a regular one?
2) I know there is an increase in light output when installing regular H11s in place of a H8 bulbs. Is it the same with an HID setup?
3) I'd like to find an affordable 5000k HID kit with decent quality.
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Freshly rebuilt 2.8 V6
Car turns over but is not getting spark or fuel. The timing is good (checked multiple times, and I have done numerous TBs on these engines). Compression is good.
The car has sat for ~2 months. It broke the timing belt (and bent or broke multiple valves), so I know it had both spark and fuel before this.
I have gone through and double checked every connection and everything is connected and seated properly. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors and there is no click during cranking, and using an extra plug I checked spark and there is none. I also hooked up my inductive timing light and it doesn't sense a spark.
I have VAG-COM and there are no fault codes. I have checked all fuses and they are good. If I do the tests on VAG-COM I can make the injectors cycle, but they don't cycle when cranking. I tested the crank position sensor (and tried a new one) and it tested good (and the new one made no difference). Using VAG-COM, I confirmed that it does sense the engine RPM when cranking. The battery voltage stays above 12V during cranking as well.
A couple other tidbits of info:
The fuel pump does work (and comes on when cranking... confirmed by disconnecting the hose and pumping fuel into a can)
When cranking for a few seconds, the display says STOP and flashes the oil light (I'm assuming because it is cranking at such low RPM)
The Check engine light and EPC light come on when the key is put in the on position and turn off during cranking (like they should)
The immobilizer light comes on for a few seconds as well, but it doesn't flash like it would if it was immobilizing the engine.
After looking at wiring diagrams, it appears that the ignition coils and the fuel injectors both run off of the same relay, but I am unsure which one or even if I am right about that. But assuming I am correct about that, wouldn't the injectors not fire during the test if that was bad?
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I was having problems starting my 2010 Kia Soul after adding gas. Didn't matter if I was filling it or just adding $10. No one knew what the problem was. I called a guy who used to fix my cars years ago and he immediately told me to go get a Canister Purge Valve. He put it in in under 10 minutes and my car starts every time now.
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98 Passat 1.8T FWD
Car will not start. No sound from fuel pump while cranking. Pulled up the carpets and pulled the cover and connector from the fuel pump. Ive heard the relay is the common problem. I tried checking the voltages on the harness and we get 0 while cranking. Pulled the relay and we get a resistance from T pin to pin 86. I did notice a yellow color on the white connector on the fuel pump itself around the middle two contacts.
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On the wiring diagram, it looks like the ground point 397 should be the one right next to the Kessy module. The one by the heater should be ground point 634. Does it matter or am I wrong?
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I have an RCD-510 (touchscreen with no Nav) in my 2010 wagon. I have the AUX in the center counsel but want to add the iPhone adapter in the glove box. I'm having issues with VW by me. They cannot figure out what I need. They took it apart once and said there was no hook for the iPod cable. Also, I talked with VW headquarters and they said they wouldn't recommend trying to do it as I'd need new wire harnessing and a new "panel.". I was very confused by the panel comment. What is the part number I would need them to order?
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I just bought a 2012 Passat TDI SEL, and wanted to add a steering wheel with paddle shift. The existing information I found is not clear. I ended up ordering the wrong steering wheel and had to send it back. So I thought I would post some info FYI:
The air bag mounting is not the same for all the newer VW steering wheels. While the splines, and external look is identical the 2012 passat uses a different style of clip to hold on the air bag. This means if you get a Jetta type steering wheel your air bag will not work. Also, the steering wheel controller is completely different in the passat. The controller is not mounted in the center of the steering wheel. The best way to go is to get a steering wheel from a Passat V6 SEL. This wheel is plug and play, you only need the wheel and VCDS programming (airbag and harness are reused). The part number for the BLACK leather color WITH paddles is 561 419 091 HE 74 ...
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