Passat (B6) :: Exhaust Sounded Like It Has A Leak - Possible Blown Diverter Valve?
Sep 26, 2010
Was cruising on the freeway and all of a sudden my exhaust sounded like it has a leak!!! I gave it some gas and it got louder but the car didn't pull like normal??? No check engine light or anything crazy. I don't think the inter cooler pipes blew off because the engine didn't shut down and I was on cruise mode.
Its sounds like the turbo wants to spool but cant hold boost, can this be the diverter valve leaking or its blown?? I haven't had the chance to check which diverter PN# I have but Im pretty sure its the stock OLD version. I am the 3rd owner. 07 Passat FSi variant with 36K miles.
I hear the 07 FSi are know to have bad or weak Diverters.... I know I needed to go with a stonger TSi Diverter which I hope is the problem here....
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Having issues with the stock one that came with our cars I think I may be leaking from the diverter valve. I was searching the forum but couldn't find the answer but when I hit the gas I can hear I would say like the diverter valve is constantly releasing the air and the power pretty much plateaus doesn't keep pulling like it did I'm assuming the diverter valve because i know there were issues of them before but i wasn't sure if they had the same issue in the mk6.
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The CEL on my Passat came on. When I scanned it with VAG-COM, the following fault code was displayed:
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached
The car also felt like it lost its power in some way, especially when the turbo kicked in. So after some research, I found out that the Diverter Valve was causing this issue. Rubber diaphragm on original valve was made from rubber and was torn. I replaced it with upgraded valve and wow what a difference!!! Very easy to do, great write up link below.
DIY Diverter Valve Replacement for 2006 VW Passat 2.0T
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Well lately I haven't driven my truck much. Usually only on the weekends if Im lucky. Well I drove it today and I noticed this weird noise on acceleration. I have the cam phaser tick and have had that for about 50k miles or so. I started to think I was getting a manifold leak and that's what I thought this noise was until when I pulled over and put it in park and revved it up I did not hear the noise again.
It only does it when you hit the gas until you get to a steady rpm. I only drove 5 miles or so. So I couldn't do much testing cause its late and I got to get up in 4 hours. I don't even know how to explain the noise. It kinda sounded like an exhaust leak but it was more of like a lite thud noise I guess. Like I said it only does it when I hit the gas when its in drive but not in park. I tried to explain it the best I could. I just hope its not phaser problems cause I don't want to dump a bunch of money into it.
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Where is this diverter valve located at ? Is it under the car?
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If your diverter valve is bad, will it throw a CEL or not always? I don't have a CEL but sometimes I feel like there is a lag in the boost. Wondering if the diverter valve is bad or not.
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I currently have a 2011 DSG. I purchased it last year and when I test drove it I did not notice any unusual sounds coming from the motor/ drivetrain. However since then I have noticed that the car makes a grinding like sound when my car is around 2k-3k rpms, its especially loud under load. Its a very audible sound, like something is grinding in the transmission- Everyone that has been in my car can hear it, and it only happens at low rpms. Anyway, I took my car in once to service and I mentioned it, however the tech said he could not hear anything.
I honestly think that I got louder since then so I took it back and the shop foreman came out for a drive with me. So the guy hears the sound, but says that its the diverter valve and that its supposed to sound that way. He tells me its because the cars now have a metal valve and that its louder. I had a 2002 A4 1.8t and it never made a sound like that, even after chipped. So Im a little worried that its something else and I wont be able to get it fixed under warranty, or maybe im just paronoid and the DSG sounds like this.
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So the other day I replaced my N75 valve and upgraded my DV to the Forge 007. For some reason the turbo doesn't spool like it did before, it's lost it's pep.
I've tried the Yellow and Green springs, also I tried them with the shim too. No luck. The car got turbo back exhaust, intake, and stage one program.
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I did the flapper mod on the exhaust... pulled the hole out, put a screw in at the end of the hose and then capped off the inlet where the hose would plug into. So have doing that I honestly could not tell a difference. The car sounded amazing when turned on after sitting awhile b/c it was idling just above 1K before it went below and sounded normal.
Also, having my car next to a MK4 R32 with the flapper, the Mk4 sounded much better and louder with the same mod done to stock systems. It is very simple and to the point and with not really hearing much of a difference with it done and then a MK4 sounding 10x better got me thinking and I wanted to ask
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I've had this tapping in my engine for a few weeks now and I put it in drive then heard a huge bang from the front of my engine and then started making a very loud popping noise that almost sounded like air leaving the valve cover...
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I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
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I was driving to work last night and too many things went wrong simultaneously leaving my MK4 stranded.
2000 Jetta 2.0
185,000
Automatic
No check engine lights or warnings
-The engine sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust at highway speed. There wasn't because it's a new system
-Low coolant light came on. The flange connector at the firewall was torn off resulting in a stream of coolant pouring out
-It was dark but the engine almost seemed cockeyed by a degree or two
-Upon parking, the motor. sounded "clunky". Driving forward seemed OK. When shifting into reverse there was a pronounced clunk and the drivetrain wasn't happy.
-I turned the ignition off and that was the last time the car started. It turns over now but will not fire up. The video I attached is my last attempt at starting it before giving up.
My car is my job and I'm at a total loss on how to proceed???
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Well I popped the hood to clean my air filter and noticed that the top of the engine looked to sprayed with oil mainly on/around the front of the valve cover. I haven't really "investigated" to see where its coming from. Where it may be coming from!! It has 32,XXX miles and auto.
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Today I did a oil change (70k). While under the car I notice a small leak from the back side of the engine. When I got home, I had the chance to remove the engine cover to investigate and clean the engine up a bit.
I found that the bolts in the rear of the valve cover had a little puddle of oil around them. I took a T-30 torque bit and was able to get a least a full turn on the rear bolts and about half turn on the middle ones. Fronts were about a quarter turn. Check your valve cover bolts.
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Last week my check engine light went on. Some hoses needed replacement and the mass air flow sensor was out of spec - I had it replaced as a preventive measure.
Now the car seems to have a subtle oil/exhaust/acrid smell, especially after car has been driven 15 minutes or so and in stop and go situations. When I step outside the car, an acrid smell appears around the engine and tailpipe area.
Check engine light is off - I took it back and they could detect nothing amiss - granted the whole garage smells like oil and exhaust. They did find a "class 1" oil leak on the rear valve cover - just a bit of oil on the rim - not yet dripping.
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I bought a 01.5 Passat a few months ago and it had developed an exhaust leak. So when I went to check under the car I found it was missing the catalytic converter.
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I'm having a strange exhaust leak type noise (loud exhaust type noise like hole in exhaust pipe) that goes away after about 20-30 seconds.. quite noisy in the garage. Can't see anything obvious. I tried the dealer but they always send a porter to bring the cars to the service bay and of course it stops by then! They couldn't duplicate the noise.
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This happened on the way to church Sunday morning. Got in cranked up and headed out. Car would not accelerate beyond 40mph and would not shift gears. Drove like this for a few miles and as some others have stated......there sounded like an explosion and then whistling and spewing of air. I pulled over think it was a a radiator or hose issue. Didn't know anything about an EGR valve.....NOT a mechanic. Drove the car back home. Like others have stated......after it blew.....then the car drove just fine. Daughters boyfriend identified the problem.
Bought a new valve and installed. Got out on the highway and had exactly the same problem .......would not accelerate beyond 40 or change gears. Then within 3 miles the EGR valve blew again and then the car drove fine. Needless to say I will NOT be putting on another valve....as that's not my core problem.I was wondering if any of the other Escape owners had determined the cause of the blown valves? At this point, I'm just hoping I can last long enough to buy another car. But I would like to know what type of issue I'm dealing with.
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I will try to make this short but still involve all necessary information. I was driving on the highway last Wednesday when my cruise control went out and i couldnt drive over 25-30 mph, my check engine light did not come on when this happened. I managed to limp the car very slowly about 2 miles down the highway as that was the nearest exit. I took the exit and when i went to "accelerate" at the light i got a loud whooshing sound from under the hood. I pulled into an auto repair shop and found the EGR Valve had a hole blown in side.
Several hundred dollars and several hours later the shop put on a new EGR Valve and had cut the lower cat converter of the car and run a straight pipe where it had been. They said they believed the cat got clogged and built up enough pressure to blow the side out of the EGR. The car ran fine like this for a few days while i waited on my brother in law to gut the cat so we could replace the cat shell as to be within the law, as it is illegal where i live to remove the cat. We gutted the cat and cut out the section it was originally and put the shell back on. The car ran ok for a few hours but then i stopped at a gas station and the check engine light started to blink and the rpms would run way low. When i say low i mean around 1000 at 55mph and would idle around 250, if i put the car in neutral it would idle around 500 but that is still low. What i could look into as the cause of this issue?
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I have an 07 2.0t m/t w/ 19's. It rides great but the other day temps got down in low 30's high 20's which is cold for Myrtle Beach, SC. When going over speed bumps I could hear creaking which sounded like it was coming from the front wheels (didn't creak when back wheels went over bump) I figured maybe it was something to do with the cold. It did this for about two days and finally on third day when going over same speed bumps the noise was gone but it was still 30degrees. It resurfaced today and temps are in the 50's. Car has about 50,000 miles but it is a CPO vehicle warrantied for another 2years/24,000.
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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