When I got my 60K service last weekend, the dealer called me and explained that I had a "very small internal leak fro an emissions canister that was leaking into the intake/manifold". He said something like that. He also said that it doesn't do anything to the performance of the car, but that the leak will increase over time and will throw a MIL.
View 6 RepliesMy friend and I are working on her '03 1.8t and I noticed a huge oil leak under the intake manifold. It looks like there's a tube that has broken off and is now just spewing oil all over the place. I tried to get pics the best I could, so here they are....
I'd imagine its something that needs to be fixed asap.
About a month ago I had my SES light go on and I took it to the auto parts store and they said it was a small emissions leak. I am not sure of the code though. I took my car to the shop and they said that a sensor that had something to do with the exhaust was bad or unplugged.
My SES light came back on about about a week ago and I had it tested and it said the same thing. "Small emissions leak" This time I got the code and its P0442. The shop is closed today and tomarrow so what and where the sensor is located? Or if its the same thing?
Can oil leak out of Intake Manifold? i have Oil around lower intake manifold gasket. is this serious issue?
View 11 Replies I've got a 1997 F150 with the 4.2L V6. Before I got it last summer I did some research, but apparently missed the issue with the intake manifold gasket leaks on these early engines. It seems to be a very slow leak, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I called Ford to see if it had had the recall work done on it, but all they could tell me is that there wasn't an open recall on my truck (with the exception of the recent fuel tank strap recall). Their system apparently only goes back 10 years, so they couldn't even see the freakin' recall. So, I've got a few questions:
1) I know I didn't post much info, but does this seem like an intake manifold leak?
2) Are there any special tools needed to change out the gasket myself?
3) Can you all recommend any replacement gaskets? I found a few different manufacturers of gaskets, but I'm sure some are better than others.
4) Can this issue cause the computer to throw the loose gas cap code (P0455 if I recall correctly).
5) Would it be worth it to just get a new truck? I really wanted a diesel in the first place, but I also hate to give up on a nice truck with only 115,000 miles.
I have a 2006 F150 screw 4.6 auto 116k miles that has evidence of a small coolant leak where the intake manifold joins the head. This is on the drivers side directly under the thermostat housing. The t-stat housing is dry and the hoses all appear dry. It's just wet right at the gasket where the manifold joins the head. Reservoir is still normal so it's not leaking too much just yet.
I searched this site and youtube but didn't find any other posts. Lots of problems with older trucks with composite manifolds but nothing for this one. It looks like a part of the bottom of the manifold is plastic but the entire top and where it is leaking is all aluminum.
It seems odd that this would start in the winter time just driving back and forth to work (no load). And, yes the antifreeze is good. Just wondering if this is a known issue with this truck. Is it just a matter of replacing the gaskets or is there some other flaw I should be concerned about?
I am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
I have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
View 2 RepliesI am getting a code for my 2003 Accent (65,000 miles). The code is P1401 and it is telling me the fix is replace Evaporative Emissions Canister. I asked my mechanic about 2 months ago about this and he wasn't too concerned.
We are not in an area where they do Emission testing. I will be driving back home to WI . and want to know if I should be concerned. The round trip is about 900 miles.
Some technical issues here. Had the intake manifold replaced under extended warranty ('09 2.0 TSI, 115,000km); they cleaned out the carbon as well. There were all sorts of codes it was throwing, despite having new coils and plugs installed.
One more thing to do. I still have Crank Position Sensor code showing. Car runs fine (much better now actually),but I was told if I don't get this last code looked after, one day the car just won't start.
I recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?
View 4 RepliesWell, I had a check engine light that lasted only three days then it cleared itself without any intervention. I checked it with a vag-com and I discovered there was an issue with the intake manifold control. I ended up bringing it to the dealer since it is a fairly new passat, and the service department informed me that the Intake Manifold Runner Control needed to be replaced.
Below were the fault codes.
3 Faults Found:
012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 33815 km
Time Indication: 0
[Code] .....
Last week my check engine light went on. Some hoses needed replacement and the mass air flow sensor was out of spec - I had it replaced as a preventive measure.
Now the car seems to have a subtle oil/exhaust/acrid smell, especially after car has been driven 15 minutes or so and in stop and go situations. When I step outside the car, an acrid smell appears around the engine and tailpipe area.
Check engine light is off - I took it back and they could detect nothing amiss - granted the whole garage smells like oil and exhaust. They did find a "class 1" oil leak on the rear valve cover - just a bit of oil on the rim - not yet dripping.
I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T. When I start it up in the morning I hear a loud obnoxious noise like a vacuum leak from the engine compartment. It lasts for about 1.5 minutes then runs normally. After about a minute it starts up again and only last for about 7 seconds...ish. When I drive it afterwards, less that a half block or so, the CEL light goes on after 1 beep. Also, at that time I get a messages from the instrument panel that says "Emissions Workshop 1". I've read that it could be a simple damaged vacuum hose to the secondary air pump. Definitely a huge price difference to repair.
This morning is was colder outside than usual and the dash kept beeping and flashing the "Emissions Workshop 1" code intermittently.
Well yesterday i installed the Neuspeed Intake and had no trouble what so ever until 30 min ago when i pull out of the parking lot abit harsh but nothing extreme no wheel spining or anything like that just a bit quicker exit.
That's when my check engine lit up and i pulled over and checked what was going on and heard a air leak, which is located to the left of the intake filter.
I recently went to my mechanic after living with a very small leak right between the catalytic converters and the transmission for about 4 months. (it dropped a dime-sized mark about once every 5 days.) he said it was the rear output seal on the transmission but wouldnt touch it since there was no easy way to get to it and didn't want to drop the whole exhaust system. so off to vw dealership (wow, i guess a lot of people complained because they replaced everyone there and they're more friendly and efficient. my car usually sat there for 3 weeks before they even looked at it. (appointment mean nothing to those people.) but after dropping off my car i got a call within an hour telling me it was a cracked ventilation hose. they ordered the part and repaired it within a week (another first.) i also had them change the trans fluid and filter and the car ran smoother and a lot better and i checked for 2 weeks for leaks and none were there but within the past week, it's back and leaking the same way. the puddle is about the size of a penny so back to vw on monday.
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 3.6L 4Motion wagon was in for the 40k service. Everything was fine with the service, but they noticed that there was a small leak in the rear differential.
It's covered under warranty, but the troubling thing is that they can't figure out how to stop the leak. They are calling VW tech.
Today I noticed a small coolant leak under passenger side bumper. What it could be leaking from?
View 1 RepliesToday I did a oil change (70k). While under the car I notice a small leak from the back side of the engine. When I got home, I had the chance to remove the engine cover to investigate and clean the engine up a bit.
I found that the bolts in the rear of the valve cover had a little puddle of oil around them. I took a T-30 torque bit and was able to get a least a full turn on the rear bolts and about half turn on the middle ones. Fronts were about a quarter turn. Check your valve cover bolts.