I have a 2004 Phaeton V8 whose engine makes a noise which just shouldn't be there. I occurs if you accelerate the engine (also when the car is not moving) at about 1500 rpm. VW dealer says its okay.
View 8 RepliesMy 02 silverado has started making a bubbling sound when I accelerate. The sound is coming from under the passenger side dash.
View 2 RepliesSix months ago we purchased a '91 Chevy Pickup and 3 months ago the truck started to "sneeze". Sometimes while accelerating the truck makes a "toot" noise from in front of the driver under the hood, and with the noise I have a momentary loss of RPMs. This can happen a number of times in a row, making pulling out on to busy streets difficult and dangerous. Most of the time, I take my foot completely off the gas and then re-apply it, and the issue goes away. It happens both with a cold engine and a warm/hot engine. This problem started when it was cold out (around 10 degrees Fahrenheit) and the mechanic I talked to about it thought it was the E10 87 gas I was putting in.
I switched to a 97 octane/no-ethenol fuel and the problem went away, until about a week ago when our temperatures finally broke 50 consistently. The problem is back and with it is a minor fluctuation of RPM when idling in neutral. The truck also created a new symptom, I was driving at about 50mph and the truck acted like it slipped on ice... I had evened out my speed and the truck seemed to start coasting then got back to driving at speed, it jerked the whole truck, like driving over a patch of ice. I don't know if it has anything to do with the original problem but all symptoms may be the same thing....
The truck is a 91 Chevy 1500K, 5.7L V8 and has 74,000 miles (mostly highway towing). It had been sitting 2 years, not really being used, before we bought it. We had the fuel injection system cleaned when they did the oil change, right after we purchased the vehicle.
So after doing some troubleshooting and researching in trying to find out on my 87K 2008 Prius Std "Noise in the engine while accelerating", "Approximately 10% reduction in fuel efficiency, due to lack of power from engine" & "Glide seems to be degrading over time", here is what I have observed.
1) When I push the gas when the car is parked the engine does not seem to rev in a stream, it goes up for about 3 seconds then goes down for 1 second, then again goes up and then down and this keeps happening until the gas pedal is kept press. In conventional cars the rev should be streaming continuously and proportionately to the pressure applied on gas pedal. This almost seems like a misfire, but from the drivers seat I do not hear any blasts, I have never tried this before so I don't know if Prius's are suppose to be like this. Also no Alarms on the MFD.
2) After using the 5.25 oz fuel injector cleaner in back to back half tanks I saw the engine regaining power and hence bettering the fuel efficiency. Does that mean I should get a Fuel Injector cleaning done by Toyota?
I own a 2004 Hyundai Sonata (2004 Base model L4 - 2.4L 2351cc - MFI GAS DOHC) which is a 4 cylinder and has about 113000 miles. Anyways, about a month ago we had one of our coldest days of the year. I drove the car to work and everything was fine. Then when I left work (it was freezing cold) I went to start the car and it sounded like I started a race car. It was so loud that I thought the car was going to blow up (no check engine light came on). I changed the oil and that didn't work and so I figured it was something with the exhaust.
Then I took it to my mechanic (applause). He said that he was stumped, the car was noisy but he didn't think it was a problem but he said he would try to figure it out. He ended up taking off the timing belt and said that was fine, he said the water pump was good as well. He had a service tech look at it with him and they thought the issue might be the "vibration dampener" or "damper" So they replaced that but it didn't work. He said it could possibly be the motor mounts but he said when he looked at them they looked okay?
I drove it off his lot yesterday and it is quiet when I idle but I can see the steering wheel shaking significantly. Then when I hit the gas it is still obnoxiously loud and with heavy vibration! But when going down a hill and letting off the gas there is a brief respite of silence (still vibration). It is especially louder in lower rpms and sometimes I think I can hear a metallic clanking/scraping noise when I have the times of "silence" but it is very faint.
I've only started noticing this recently. I have a 2004 W12 with roughly 75k miles. It seems to only happen after the engine warms up, but even then its seemingly randomly. I'll notice a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of the engine. The sound increases in frequency as I rev the engine. I have no check engine lights and no noticeable loss of power. Its not a radiator fan since the sound is still audible when the hood is open. I'm getting no CAN errors with my generic OBDII scanner (I know its not a VAG-COM but hey).
I've been reading up on the possibility of it being a bad valve lifter. I don't know much about them and was hoping to get some advice here before I go about asking my dealership to diagnose the sound. I found this random article through google vaguely talking about replacing the lifter. The person says its "reasonable and inexpensive".
I also stumbled across this thread here describing what sounds similar. Although the thread provides no closure it seems towards the end people are hinting that the engine needs to be pulled? This is contradictory to the first source I found. My question is, say it was a bad lifter, whats the extent of work required to fix it? The Parts seem to be really cheap if I'm looking at the correct stuff?
1992 WT pick up 263,000 miles had new head gasket installed valves lapped and tune up it was doing it before and does get better when truck warms up, but still can hesitate at times. When cold you have to feather gas pedal to truck accelerating, you can hear truck motor pop through throttle body but will continue to speed up.
View 2 RepliesSo I used my 2000 silverado 1500 to remove a willow trunk from my yard. 4 Lo, took a bit of work but I tried not to overdo it. Now, truck sputters when accelerating. Once it gets going it's good but the startup is sputtery and bucks a little. What did I do?
View 1 RepliesExperience a grinding noise at around 1500-1800 rpm when driving?
The noise sounds like the 2nd gen valve spring start up but not as loud.
The dealer was able to replicate the noise on my car but they don't know what is causing it.
They called the regional guy to come look at it but he doesn't have a clue where or what is causing the noise.
2015 350fpsort
30k miles
Noise starts at around 10K-15k miles and dealer couldn't replicate it then but I hear it everyday.
Update with video : [URL] ....
OK, updating my test with my 2006 127k mile engine burning oil. After 2 OCI with MMO added to the oil, it has not improved the oil burning. I was using 3 quarts 5w30 oil and added 1/2 quart of MMO. Oil burning seems to be about 1 quart 1500 miles or so. I believe before this MMO test, the car was burning around 1 quart every 2000 miles or so.
This may be because the oil has been thinned out by MMO but not really sure. Next OCI, I will be using Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w30, because I heard that oil has exceptional cleaning power.
I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318ci engine. 140,000 miles. Fall 2009 I replaced the CAT (old one had broken loose and was rattling around inside) and both o2 sensors. A few months later, when I'd start the truck cold it would idle fine then as it warmed at idle it would run rough almost quit then idle up and run fine all by itself. When started warm it would idle fine then hesitate while acclerating a few times then run fine. No check engine light. Now, about 10 months later check engine light is on (P0138 o2 circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2). I have put about 5,000 miles on the new CAT. I checked the wires and connections for damage and found none. Also, new cap,rotor,plugs and wires.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 1997 Rav4 (3F-SE Engine) with 162000 miles. Overall, it is a great car. The only problem (besides a clutch, which can wait) is that it hesitates/bucks between 1500-2100 rpm while accelerating. This happens usually on a shift change from 1st to 2nd, or while in 2nd and after decelerating to make a turn. This only happens after the engine has warmed up, i.e. the temp gauge is above 25%. When cold, there is no hesitation at all. It just passed emissions testing. Check engine light is off. I recently replaced the TPS (and adjusted it properly), with no change in symptoms. This car does not have a MAF sensor.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry 2.4 LE with 120k miles on it. It's been very well taken care of. As of now, here is the maintenance that has been completed at my dealership. By the way, I don't trust dealerships, but I do have one nearby that is actually beyond outstanding (and I know a little about cars):
- Regular oil changes, and always with 5W-30
- Radiator flush and thermostat replacement
- Tranny flush
- New front brakes, rear brakes cleaned, and lines flushed.
- Oil pan gasket replaced
- Valve cover gasket replaced
- Spark plugs replaced (at around 105k)
So, with this information being provided, here is my current problem. Lately, as I accelerate between 1500-2500 rpms, the engine has a louder than usual (but not too loud) groaning noise. Basically, the engine just sounds a tad louder than normal along with groaning noise. The engine also feels as though it is running kind of "dry" (if that makes any sense).
Now, above 2500 rpms, it's just fine. It's amazing on the highway, but I feel as though it has slightly lost acceleration in the city. The only issue with the car is the infamous greyish/blue smoke at startup, but that rarely happens and when it does, its a small amount of smoke, and it has never affected it's performance or gas mileage. Another thing is that I had to have that dreaded oil splash guard removed, because apparently the timing chain punctured it and it was about to fall off.
This problem has been recent within the last month. Just before this, the car has been on a roundtrip to Tucson from Tulsa, and Amarillo twice, complete with 32+mpg on the highway! So, what's wrong? Serptentine belt? PCV valve? Cam or something underneath the valve cover?
What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
View 7 RepliesUsually after I run the car in manual/sport mode, I begin to hear a high-pitched 'hissing/whistling' noise coming from the engine. It sounds like a vacuum leak. It is audible while driving with the windows down.
I am having problems pin pointing the source, but it sounds like its coming from the center block. What is the right direction to the leak? It starts exactly at 1500 and cuts off at 2200 rpm (while in gear). 1500 to 3000 rpm while in park..
I have a Takeda intake installed and I re-tighten the fittings.
My 1990 Chevy Silverado with 5.0 liter, 45k miles has started a problem that the guys in my diesel repair shop don't know what to do. Last week it started to run rough, hesitating and lurching and not accelerating smoothly. It idles fine, or pretty well, but just doesn't run smoothly with any kind of acceleration. I drive it back and forth to work just 1.5 miles during the week. I took it on vacation a week before, so it's not from lack of long trips, it ran fine.
A guy at my diesel repair shop put it on his Genesis scope and all it would code is the O2 sensor showed lean, but we could see it switching from rich to lean and so on. I thought vacuum leak, but couldn't find one. PCV valve is good. EGR valve is ok. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and thought it ran a little better, but now has gone back to the rough running. What I can do myself to diagnose this? I do have all the tools and shop.
Noticed yesterday a slight whistle from turbo in my 108,000 mile MY2008 3.0tdi ( the engine is new at 90k miles, but the turbo was transferred over).
Its barely audible, a gentle whistle from about 1500 to 1800 rpm on moderate acceleration. It's then lost in general engine/ road noise. Car drives smoothly and pulls as normal.
Only noticeable on quite road surfaces, radio off, etc, and no more than I recall as standard from earlier turbo diesel Audi & BMW cars from the 1990's.
A quick on-line search indicates carbon build-up can be an issue? In the past few years my mileage has dropped way down to maybe 9k miles per year, mostly shorter trips & not as much higher speed motorway as previously.
If this is the potential end in sight for the turbo, can the unit be refurbished.
2003 F250. 6 speed. 5.4 2v. 4x4. 165,000 miles
When purchased, there was a vacuum leak and truck ran like crap and PO drove it that way for a while. I fixed the vacuum leak, discovered a miss between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms in every gear while accelerating. No miss at idle.
The truck has:
- no CEL
- new Motorcraft spark plugs that were not dropped, bumped, or over torqued.
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new alternator
*The miss usually does NOT happen in the morning on the way to work after sitting 14 hours.
*The miss almost always goes away after the truck gets up to operating temp.
*The miss ALWAYS is present after work on the way home after sitting 9 hours.
Fuel pressure?
Bad COP?
Fuel Injector?
Something totally different?
I got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2008 Prius and recently hit the 85K mark. A couple of weeks ago, about a week after my most recent oil change, I started noticing a noise when I accelerate. It's kind of a wah-wah-wah-wah or wuh-wuh-wuh-wuh noise that gets faster the faster I'm going. It's not terribly loud - I can't hear it if the windows are open or if the volume on my radio is cranked up.
It disappears when I stop accelerating or sharply reduce my acceleration. At about 40-50 mph, the noise goes away. I'm not sure if this is because road noise blocks it out, or it's so fast-paced that it just becomes one constant noise.
Today for the first time since this all started, I also noticed that unless I'm not accelerating at all, I have poor gas mileage (like under 25 mpg). This happened once before and went away the next day so it might be unrelated.
Can I wait until my 90K service to have this checked out? Should I visit my mechanic now? Do you think this is a timing chain issue? What am I looking at?
I bought a used Certified Prius with 49k miles on it. I noticed when accelerating (and the display shows that I am using the ICE but not so much that it shoots up into the "Power" portion on the far right) that the there is a clicking noise coming from the front passenger side of the car.
It sounds very much like this:
I don't hear it when only the electric motor is running, and I don't hear it when I really punch it and the power meter is completely filled up. Its more when the power meter is in the middle of the display and the ICE kicks in and I am slowly accelerating.