Phaeton :: Battery Discharge During Very Cold Weather
Dec 10, 2012
My car is eating up battery power: only when outside is cold, below 10 C,something very strange, in summer days there is no battery draining, my climate stays adjusted at 19 C, but now is very cold and I make it 25 C,and then it is the mystery: the battery is draining for 2-3 hours below 10V?
I made some tricks:
-when the car i turned off while climate is set to 25C(or above 24C)-the battery is draining very fast, second battery relay switches on and I can turn the ignition on only with the key in!
-when the car is turned off while the climate is set to 18C(or below 24C) the battery drain is very small???
So does something turn on while the car is locked,or something is trying to keep any temperature inside? I double checked if AUX heating is off,and it is off,I don't have parking heater or anything. Another thing I notice is when I turn on the rear seats climatronic above 24C the voltmeter goes from 14V to 13V and stays there for a 5-10 min,if I turn off the rear seats climatronic or set it below 24V the voltmeter gets back to 14V?
Whats is happening with the car?
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Very occasionally and usually from a cold start I get a rapid discharge of the battery.
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Even with the excellent HVAC system in my Phaeton, the windows will fog up. I know I can press the dedicated Defrost button on the dash that turns the blower fan way up and clears the windows very quickly. But is there any way to set the system to do what many other cars do, i.e., split the air flow between the defrost vents and the lower level (foot) vents?
When I press the button on the infotainment screen to manually direct the air to the upper-most vent, it seems to direct the air not to the defrost vents closest to the windshield, but to the perforated panel on top of the dash. This doesn't keep the windshield from fogging as well as I would like. I am forced occasionally to press the Defrost button to clear it.
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I got a new Prius Plug-in 2012 and when the cold weather came this winter, which isn't that cold at 40F, the 12v battery seems to get discharged very often. This week, I must have jumpstarted the car twice already. The 12v battery seems to get drained when I park outside in the (not so) cold, or when I park underground for hours. I also notice that the traction battery gets filled up; it's as if the 12v battery drains into the traction battery.
(I leased a Prius 2010, not plug-in, for 3 years and this never happened even if I parked it for days in even colder weather.)
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A problem with having a 12 volt battery maintainer hooked up to your truck when not being used for a few weeks? In this cold weather the new battery keeps drawing down while not in use and is slow to turn over after 1 1/2 weeks or so? I think the maintainers charge at about 1.5 amps. I wonder if that can keep up with all the parasitic draws: PCM, radio presets & clock, remote door lock system, and factory security system and keep the battery topped off as well?
Also, is there any problem with putting a charge on a battery when the cables are still hooked up to the trucks electrical system with either a maintainer or a full size charger, Example: screwing up the PCM?
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2006 Prius with 130k miles. I'm thinking that my HV battery has slowly deteriorated to the point where it's causing drivability issues, and now needs to be replaced.
The main symptoms I'm experiencing are rapid charge/discharge according to the MFD and significant loss of power once the battery has discharged to one bar. I realize the latter is "normal," but the problem is that I'm seeing one bar frequently now. Hill climbs that my car used to do with no problem and would drain the SOC to 2-3 bars now cause the battery to drain to 1 bar about half-way up and then loss of speed from 65 mph to 45 mph by the time I reach the top. Descending hills, it's not unusual to see the SOC go from 2 bars to 7-8 bars within 30 seconds or so.
I'm not seeing any error lights, and my (cheap) code reader does not report any logged DTCs.
This seems to be a slow degradation of battery performance, rather than an outright failure. I first noticed that the battery would charge/discharge a little quicker than it had been at about 90k miles. At 99k (before the warranty ended) I took it into the dealer and they tested the HV battery. Block voltages ranged from 16.59 to 16.68 V and resistances ranged from 0.025 to 0.026 ohms. Based on this, they said that the battery was fine, and sent me on my way. Since then, the problem has just gotten worse and worse, though.
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About 20 minutes ago I started up the car and the screen indicated the main battery was pretty much empty. And hour before I had pulled into my driveway and the battery had indicated maybe 70%+. The car was off, nothing like headlights or anything I know of was left on.
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The stereo will power off after 10mins or so (even if the ignition button is on ACC or Power position), and the radio screen shows a battery discharge warning (this goes on before the power gets cut off).
Is there a way to keep the stereo power on even with the engine off? The ignition button is already on ACC or Power (without engine on) and the system still cuts off the power after 10mins or so...
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I got the Battery discharge warning massage today, I was listening to xm in the car for about 5 minutes on engine set to ACC and the Battery discharge warning massage came on and tells me to run system while the engine is running. Am I not suppose to be on ACC if I just want to listen to music?
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I just brought home a shinny new 2012 Hyundai Sonata Limited with Nav and it's awesome! Just discovered something though...
When the engin is off and I am running the radio I get the Battery Discharge Warning pop up on the Nav screen accompanied by a beep. It goes off every minute or so.
This is going to be annoying next time I go to the drive in that we like to frequent as we need to play the audio on the FM radio with the car turned off.
How I can turn this off or disable the sounds at least?
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This evening, long after sundown, I found myself stuck on an unmoving expressway with no sign of traffic starting up again (the radio reported a vehicle fire ahead, all lanes blocked). Time dragged on, and I started worrying about the possibility of the headlights draining the 12V battery , assuming that they do indeed run off the 12V battery. In a conventional car this wouldn't have been a problem because the idling engine would have maintained enough battery charge, but of course here the ICE wasn't running. So I turned off the power button to shut down the lights (it's a Canadian car, so there's no way of turning off the headlights with the power button on). That was safe in this particular situation because there were plenty of stopped vehicles behind me. It definitely would not have been safe if mine had been the last vehicle in the lineup.
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My car is an 05 and currently has 219,000 miles. Runs great. Only things I've replaced are the 12 volt battery and the rack and pinion. Replaced the rack because I was trying to drift in the snow and tried to beat the traction control. Needless to say, I lost and hit the curb. Jammed the gear in the left side of the rack. Replaced the rack with a $75 used one and no problems since.
My issue is this, even if my battery is at 6 bars when I first take off, my hybrid battery drains down to even as low as 1 bar. It only got down to 1 once but is hitting 2 regularly. After about 3-10 miles it is back to the regular charge rate. I also noticed the other day with the window down, there was a slight whirring sound, almost like a gear or wheel that is a gummed up and is being slowed down. It also felt like there was resistance, almost like the brake was dragging. After a few miles, as in less than 5, the noise was gone and the car was going along just fine. I've checked the emergency brake to see if it's dragging by applying it and releasing it several times. Does not appear to be the issue. Today I put it in neutral to see if that changed anything but it did like it always does and just coasted along fine with no resistance. My thought is the transmission. I'm wondering if the fluid it so old and broken down that maybe things are gumming up. Either way, I purchased the tranny fluid and will change that out. I know people will probably gasp but I have never changed it. Actually thought because it's a cvt and there is no dipstick to check it, that it doesn't need changed. After reading up yesterday I discovered I was mistaken.
I think that's about it. I'll edit it if I think of something more. Once the battery is back up to charge it accelerates and drives like normal. I do want the car to last so my daughter can use it when I buy the new Prius Prime.
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I replaced a post-cat O2 sensor because of a code that came up last week. We didn't reset the ECU, but after driving it a couple days the check engine light went out. 3-4 days of driving and everything looked good.
Today the check engine light came on again and autozone read the code as:
P0136 - heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2 (HO2S12) sensor range/performance condition
Explanation Open circuit or short circuit condition
Probable Cause
Poor electrical connection
check other service codes
Faulty Bank 1 Sensor 2.
Anyway, I thought it might be because we didn't reset ECU and some kind of calibration might be off in the system. So, I unplugged the battery in an attempt to let it discharge and reset ECU. When I connected the battery back up.... ALL THE FREAKIN LIGHTS ARE NOW ON THE DASH. Check engine... traction control.... tire pressure.... everything.
Golf TDI 2012
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I've noticed that the display shows the Battery Discharge warning while the vehicle is running. I notice it while reversing, because - well, I'm watching the image from the camera. The message goes away in a few seconds and the regular "look around you" advice appears. It doesn't happen every time nor does it follow a change in weather. Just random occurrences.
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I have a 2005 with 165K on it. Just within the last 2 weeks, at start up, no matter what level the charge shows on the display, the HV battery will almost fully discharge and then come back up to full charge within a mile of driving. I just replaced the 12V battery thinking this could have been an issue, but it didn't change anything. The car never acted like this since I bought it in 05. When it drops to the discharge level, It running on ICE only, with the typical slower acceleration. What could be going on?
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Cold weather making my clutch soft... Or is it something else? I just drove it fine 5 hrs ago and now its cold as hell and can put it into gear.
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So, I noticed after the week long heatwave (using Priidash and the Prius display) that during normal driving (under 65mph and slow accel) that my prius is NOT keeping the battery at 60% SOC....It is staying in the low 50's or as low as 39.5%....If I go above 70mph, I see the battery being drained and not recharged at all....I reset the battery (twice) the first time it made no difference but the second time the car turned on and said I had 60% SOC when in reality before the ECU reset I was at 49.5%. I know my battery is good because I have stress tested it many times. Its in great shape. The only thing I've done differently these past few weeks is I left the car in Park with the AC on 75 auto for about 5hrs on 4 different days....Its a 2004 Prius.
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2001 Intrigue 3.3 L v6
Due to the cold weather, seems the battery could not start the car. I removed the battery to trickle charge it overnight in the house, and hooked it back up in the morning. It seemed to have sufficient charge to power the starter motor, but the engine would not turn over. I could hear a whirring sound whenever the key was turned, and the sound stopped whenever the key was turned off.
I am suspecting that the starter motor somehow is not engaging with the engine flywheel?
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After the car has been sitting all night in the cold 20 degree weather, it is notchy when I upshift into third from second. I already swapped out the manual trans fluid with Amsoil 75w90 GL-4 manual trans fluid. It didn't really change anything, but I will say that whatever fluid was in there before was quite dark. It may have even been the original fluid from the factory (80,000 miles), I am not sure. The shifter is also a little stiff feeling when its very cold.
Once car has been driven for a little while (20+ minutes), and is warmed up real good it isn't notchy or stiff. Is this just something I have to get used to?
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I was heading home last night from work and noticed something odd. It was the first pretty cold night that we have had around 20-25 deg. and I took off from the parking lot like normal.
When I got to the first stop light about a mile down the road I heard what sounded like the engine revving up right when I took my foot off the gas pedal. It did this as I coasted to the stop light. It also did it again at the next stop light just up the street. I thought maybe it was the heater blower, but It really sounded and felt like the engine revving. The car did not accelerate or anything, is this part of the warm up or normal? I also have the lower grill blocked but I don't see how that would make any difference.
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I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
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