Phaeton :: Gearshift Selector Handle Coming Apart?
Apr 5, 2011
I'm a complete novice having just bought my first Phaeton today. However I was somewhat surprised and dismayed when the gear selector handle came off in my hand. I'm not sure if something has dropped out, but now the locking button does not operate.
As the car is still under warranty presumably this will be an easy fix? Is this just a freak accident or is there a known weakness? By the way the gears operate perfectly without the handle but its not the look I'd opt for!
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My automatic shift selector was extremely loose. Wasn't the two bolts up behind the dash. Turns out that there is a metal cylinder with a cutaway that seems to have fallen out of the selector housing. One of the edges of this cylinder broke off as you can see in this pic:
What is this piece called and can I get a replacement at autozone/pepboys/ect?
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When I park my car and shift the selector into "P" the car will not allow me to remove the key until I jiggle the selector. I get a "please shift the selector into P"
After it's jiggled it unlocks, and I can then remove the key. I would prefer to fix it myself, rather than take it to the dealership.
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What does it mean when the PRND2 area all illuminated at the same time? Normally only the gear selected will be illuminated, but yesteday I got a solid bar illuminating all the gear selections. Couldn't find any reference to it in the manual. Shut the car off and restarted and the problem went away.
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I am Having a problem on my 2005 Phaeton which has a 3.2 engine. Last time I drove it was yesterday and had no problems. This morning, I'd turn the key and it give me various error message."Move selector lever to position P/N" ...
I tried to move it but with no luck , the message is still there and I also noticed that the light on the shift that indicates that I need to press on the break to start is not glowing. This is not the 1st time I had this error but before I had to leave it for a while and it will start ...
I really love my Phaeton and it has only 75,774 kilometres on , so it is quite new ...
You can see the error message and the light indication below in the pictures ....
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I have a European Phaeton 3.2 litre V6 (gasoline) from 2003 that is giving me some problems. When I am finished driving I put the gear lever to parking position and turn off the ignition. I then get a message "Move selector lever to position p" and the key is stuck in the ignition.
So far, I have been able to get the error message away (and with that also been able to get the key out) by starting the car and move the gear lever around. Some times I have managed by only starting the system (by not holding my foot on the brake pedal). But tonight I couldn't get it fixed after numerous tries. I then simply waited in the car, because I didn't really know what to do, and after maybe five minutes the system shut down (energy saving mode?) and I could finally get the key out.
When I tried google the error message I found some topics about it on the Touareg forums, but they got the error message while driving and it had to do with the keyless system (which my car doesn't have).
What might be causing this problem? My local VW dealer is not very used to Phaetons (I am the only on in my town with one).
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Today when I head home I was getting the message "Move Selector Lever to Position P." It would come and go. No other lights or warning what so ever were lit. What this message was for and why it was displaying??
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Got in the car today and moved the gear selector into the manual shift mode. Usually there is no play forwards or backwards. Today there was about 3/8 of an inch travel forward before the spring tension started. I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the console latch replaced but was wondering why encountered this anomaly in the shift mechanism?
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I have found my"new" 04 Phaeton not unlocking by touching the door handle. I also noticed the trunk won't open when I press the bottom of the logo. Yes I do have the technology package so that isn't the issue. I was wondering if it is a software issue.
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If I unlock the car with the fob - two clicks - all doors unlock. However the rear drivers side passenger door always needs two pulls on the handle to open it. Both passenger side doors open from the outside on first pull, as does the drivers door, but the back door on the passenger side needs two pulls.
As far as I can tell all doors behave the same inside - one pull to open, unless the car is centrally locked, in which case two pulls.
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My car is getting close to the 55- thousand mile service, and correct me if i am wrong the service is not mentioned in the owners handbook unless i overlooked something. However for the first time since i have the car the service due message is counting down in the readout.
Recently the CEL came on again, giving me an opportunity to use VAG adapter to read out the error code from memory. So went to open the panel underneath the steering wheel which contains the OBD connector. And that's when i got stuck.
According to the owner hand book the compartment has a little latch to open it. The only latch i found is the one used for the hand brake release. So what am I overlooking ?
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The chrome strip on the passenger side door handle has dropped off somewhere along the road.
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I have registered under a pseudonym as I don't want the dealer/SM to get into any trouble. Just an update on my 3 day visit to the dealer for 6 issues. Car is a well loaded V8 (PPS II) with 3200 miles. Main issues that needed attention were.
1. A/C not working right after 2-3 stops.
A working A/C is a must in TX! I have posted before about issues with the efficiency of the A/C, and several others seem to have the same problem. Main issue is that after 2-3 stops (for instance when running errands) the A/C takes forever to cool the car down. The air coming out of the vents is just not cold, even with the settings on min temp and max fan with recirculation. Big news is that service manager told me VW are aware that there is a problem, and the are working on a fix, hopefully without a recall! So if you have noted a similar problem, we need to band together and push VW for a fix. This is a major issue for me and really stops me using the car with my 10 month old son, who just overheats in the back.
2. Humming/droning noise over 70MPH from front drivers side wheel/transmission
This was the 2nd visit and once again they claim that all is normal/within spec. This noise comes and goes depending on throttle position, but can be heard and felt when it occurs. Apparently they have referred this to the local VW rep.... we'll see.
3. Binding at low speed during turns
Transfer and stepper were OK, flashed some module or something, SM seemed a little vague, not sure if this did anything as first trip today I noticed the same thing.
4. Windshield condensation
TSB was done, has made it better but not perfect. I still get a small strip of condensation across windshield. Seems not to have affected the screen demist function, as hot air is blown onto windshield when the button is used.
5. Seatbelt recall
Done, no issues with this.
6. Harsh Gearshift
Had the transmission flashed. Much better now, and as others have reported, seems to behave more like sport mode now. More willing to kick down and hold down, 6th comes later. So items 1 & 2 are still outstanding.Other comments. Car was cleaned which was nice. Carpet by dead foot pedal was covered in grease where someone had got in car with filthy boots. SM came and personally cleaned this off. Hopefully won't notice. Mats and door plates also filthy, but I have cleaned this.
Windshield covered in greasy hand prints (dirty windshields are a bugbear of mine, being a pilot!) Was told I would get a VW loaner, but when I turned up I was trucked over to Enterprise and given (no choice) a beautiful Buick Century!! I Was not impressed and I told the SM so. Overall I had low expectations of good service and I was not disappointed. I specifically asked that the parts for the TSB's be in stock before I took the car in, but was told that the service dept were more capable than me to determine what was needed, of course when it came to it the parts that WERE needed were not in stock.
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I normally drive with my arm (elbow) on the armrest and my hand resting on the gearshift. I have an automatic 2013 SE and for a while I didn't think much of it but sometimes it just concerns me because it's almost everyday now that I notice it... bu there is some kind of clicking sound a I can feel it through the gearshift. It sounds like it's coming from under it or somewhere behind the dashboard (like behind the radio console). I hear it every 3 seconds or so.. it's very subtle so I mostly hear when at a red light... it kind of sounds like something stretching or expansion, sort of like the sound wheels (or the exhaust.. not sure which makes that sound) make after you stop driving. The car seems to be running fine and I have no other issues with it. This is more of an annoyance so far but I just want to make sure this won't turn into a bigger issue.
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I had my '09 F-150 Super Crew lock punched out on driver side door. To prevent this from happening again, I am replacing that handle with a handle for the rear door that has NO lock. I will no longer have key access to the truck. I am also ordering a spare remote. Is there anything I should consider before following through with this decision? Why I shouldn't do this? Is this a common thing to do?
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Realize cold air is seeping in from door handles? Very obvious when sun roof is open slightly ?? No doubt a draft is coming into car. Is this normal?
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I've had my GTI almost 2 months now, and I love almost everything about it. Recently I've noticed that the shifter makes a thunking noise and seems to seat itself into reverse after I put it in reverse and back up 10 feet or so. It seems to happen at lease half the time, but not every time. It does not happen if I keep my hand on the shifter. Is it worth bringing in right away or should I just wait until my 10k service?
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My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 started dripping water the other day from the ceiling handle. The drain hoses do not appear to be plugged, water runs freely out. I pulled off the headliner around the place of the leak, and I can kind of see a plastic attachment with the drain hose on the corner of the sunroof frame. The water is coming from somewhere from it, but not from the hose attachment.
My question is, Do I have to replace the sunroof frame? Is it difficult to do? Or can I get away epoxying around the leak if it's small enough? In any case, how hard is it to remove the headliner?
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My daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape. The small panel insert around the door handle has the vinyl/leather coming off. How do I remove this without taking the whole door panel, the large one covering the window, off? I do know what I have to do to reattach this fabric, just cant seem to get teh small panel to come off.
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I've got a person w/ a Phaeton that has one of his HID's not coming on. I told him either bulb or ballast. I suggest we swap the bulbs and see what happens, but it appears to be very difficult to get at that part of the headlight ass'y. Is it poss to gain better access to the rear of the headlight ass'y by removing the wheelhouse liner or does the whole ass'y need to come out which requires the removal of the bumper cover, or is there another way? VW wouldn't really make changing a bulb that difficult, would they?
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Recently took the car on a trip to eire with a grand total of 1500 miles covered with 4 adults and a boot full of gear and the car was faultless returning an unbelievable 37:9 mpg which I find staggering considering I was not hanging around and the weight in the boot was at the limit as my mates crammed in 6 cases of beer for good measure.
Now the faults that I noticed on the long drive, above 70 mph the drivers door has a wind noise like there's a gap at the top of the door although below 70 and its silent...
I did read that it can be seals or may need a door adjustment- I checked the seals and they are as new (cars only 42 month old) but i do think the drivers door is 1-2 mm lower as trim inside seems slightly lower.
I have a warranty so should I drop car off ? I will have to read but I don't know if this adjustment will be covered.
The second fault is a little more serious...
their is a knocking noise coming from the from right of the car at low speed (below 25mph) and seems exaggerated with right turns no vibration.
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