Phaeton :: Keyless Entry And Start System Warning
Sep 20, 2007
The other day it was a cold morning so I went out and started the engine to warm it up, heat the seats and clear the windows. I was on the train this particular day so the wife was going to drop me at the station, dropping the kids at the bus stop on the way.
We got as far as the bus and no further as darling wife hadn't picked up a key so following the stop we could neither start the car nor lock it. Fortunately the crisis was averted as miraculously a friend passed by soon after and ran me home for the key so I made my train, just.
Moral of the story is if you start the car with Keyless start always leave a key somewhere in the car.....
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I have a 2008 3.0 tdi ...
1) how do you get the mirrors to fold in automatically when the car switches off, like most other vehicles? I can do it manually each time using the knob but I am sure there's another way?
2) I have the keyless entry option. I figured out how to lock the car using the little square button on the handle so I don't need to take the key out of my pocket, but how do you open all four doors without taking the key out of your pocket?
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I have a 2008 Phaeton v8. The keyless entry feature on the exterior door handles has stopped working. The car neither locks or unlocks using the keyless entry feature. I tried using accessing the car with different key Fobs to no avail.
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2004 VW Paeton V8
Parked, heavy rain all day..6pm time to leave work. Key less entry un-responsive, manually unlocked driver side door. Triggered alarm. remote unresponsive, had to pull fuse on horn,Christ thats loud!! both front carpets water soaked...Dash displays "imobl active" tried ignition, No start, key now locked in ignition.
Transmission locked, wheels locked. smell of electrical from the engine compartment.(vehicle tried to start on its own 4 or 5 times as i stood outside the car..??).. I had the car towed to the nearest VW dealer, rented a car to get home 2.5 hours drive away. The dealer calls 2 days later saying they cant access the trunk they need me to send the extra keys...
Obviously water damaged electrical but what? The dealership hasn't diagnosed it yet, but i am trying to get some insight of what is damaged ...
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I have a 2008 Chevy HHR. On Monday both the key fobs for the keyless entry system quit working. I took both fobs to my local auto parts place where they had a tester and both seemed to work ok. What inside the car receives the signal from the remotes and activates the locking mechanism. All other electronics within the car is working. On Monday we had to have the car jump started when someone left the key in the ignition on Acc setting. Besides testing the fobs I changed the fuse for the Body Control Module (BCM).
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What would be involved with removing the keyless entry system on my '02 F150 XLT so that I can install it into my '97 Explorer that I am fixing up. Is it integrated into the main computer or is it a totally separate system? If so where is it located?
The Expo already has power locks just not keyless (or at least I never received the key fob for it when I bought it) I have shaved the door lock cylinders and am fabricating handles to be hidden in the window moldings.
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The keyless entry for my Freestar has just started acting up out of the blue. It will occasionally work after repeated button pushing on the fob.
It does this for both fobs
It does this for all buttons on the fobs
I have tried changing the fob batteries
The door buttons inside the car work just fine
What can cause intermittent functionality of the keyless entry system? Is there a box under the dash I can unplug/replug or a fuse I can change?
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Randomly, the remote keyless entry system of my 2009 Jeep Wrangler will fail to unlock the doors. When this happens and I then use the key in the door the alarm goes off. As soon as I insert the key in the ignition the alarm will deactivate (as it should). After the first few times I took it to the dealer and a computer was replaced. It kept happening. I took it back to the dealer and now they claim that it is normal! If I use the key to unlock the doors otherwise, no alarm. So, why the periodic failure?
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Well after install many of stero's,wiring phone system,etc I though I could install powerlocks on my 07 f150 xl.
I have a basic understanding on how this alarm works but I have a few questions. First her is the diagrams I have to look at. [URL] ....
Like I said I have installed the power locks in the door panels but I do not know how to hook them up the the brain. Do i use relays? or do I just connect a lock wire and a unlock wire to the lock motor? If I do use a relay do Can i daisy chain the unlock output and the lock output?
Once I can get that figured out I just wire the rest of the brain up to the information I have for the wiring diagram for my truck. 12V to the ignation, Find lights,etc...
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I have a 2013 RLine 4mo and I'm still trying to figure out why I don't have keyless entry and push start since it seems like other trims have it.
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I have a 2007 Prius with keyless entry and start fob. My battery went dead, got a jump, took it to Toyota dealer. They checked my battery and they said it is a good one just recharged for me. Then when I tried to start my car without inserting the key, it would not work. I asked the service person and he said I would have to come back and pay $110.00 for them to reprogram. Can I do this myself? It was working before my battery went dead. This happened once before but did not lose the keyless function.
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I was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
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As the title states, I have a 05 Sport Trac, just plain Jane. No keyless entry, no remote start, no steering wheel tilt. Just standard. I am wanting to install a Viper 4103 remote start/keyless entry kit to it. I just don't know if I will need any extra parts? I've tried googling and all kinds of stuff but cant find a straight answer. Some sites say I need an immobilizer bypass, some say I don't.
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So my daughter has a Subaru Outback with keyless entry and push button start, and her battery kept dying overnight. It turns out that she was keeping her second key fob within 10 feet of the car, so the car's electrical system was kept on all night (sensing that she was approaching the car) running the battery down. The lesson learned (the hard way) was to keep your key fobs far enough away from the car so the electrical system is not constantly energized.
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It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
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Can you only open the driver's door on a Prius V 3 without holding the key? I can't seem to get the back to open and there is no sensor on the passenger's front. I am sure going to miss it for grocery shopping.
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For some reason, it just stopped working. I replaced the battery about a couple of weeks ago, and it has worked fine until today. it shows the red led on the remote when I press lock or unlock, but nothing happens.
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We're having trouble programming the keyless entry fob to unlock the doors. Seems that we can get it to open the automatic way (putting fob close to lock) but to lock and unlock using the buttons on the key hardly ever works. Is there someway to program through the MAF that im not seeing? (tried comfort settings) also tried resetting the key by unlocking manually and starting the car.
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I have the keyless entry feature, but it's been acting strange lately. I keep my key in my right side jacket pocket & lock/unlock the door with the button on the handle of the car. Lately it hasn't been working....I have the hold the key next to the handle It seems to be doing this just about every other time I get in or out of the car.
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I have a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo, V6. I need to find the location of the keyless entry/car alarm antenna. I have heard that this vehicle might use the body frame as an antenna. Also where is it attached to the frame if this is the case.
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Recently the keyless entry buttons (lock, unlock, panic) buttons stopped working. The red light still came on (strong), but car wouldn't unlock. The key still works for starting the car, but having to use the manual key to enter.
What I have tried:
Ensured this is Option Package 1 car, no push button to disable the SKS from under the dash Tried the reprogramming steps here in this post (though I would say they are not 100% clear) Read the owner manual pages 20-40 Gave up and spent $5 on another CR2032 battery (did not work).
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