Phaeton :: Metallic Clicking Sound And Window Would Not Raise
Jul 26, 2007
So I decided to drive my car this morning after almost 2 weeks of it sitting in the garage, got to the parking structure, pushed the button to lower the windows so I can swipe my auto parking card and it rolled down fine. Then tried to close the window and heard this metallic clicking sound and the window wouldn't raise. Called the dealership and drove right to them to look into it. Now I am stuck with a Jetta until my car is fixed.
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2012 Prius 3 with solar roof. Most of the time when I go over little divest in the road; just large enough to barely feel, I hear a metallic clicking sound from the front passenger side of the vehicle. It is only audible with the windows down. It only happens if I am going faster than around 10mph. Sometimes I hear a similar sound from the drivers side, but not as much as the passenger side. I do not usually hear it when hitting larger bumps that work the shocks a bit harder.
It really sounds like some loose bits of metal contacting each other. I do not see anything obvious with a quick visual inspection, but I have not raised the vehicle to really get a good look down there.
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So fairly recently, I've noticed a metallic-ish click like noise from my back rear driver side wheel. I hear it on occasion when sitting down in my car and the car tilts slightly. I can reproduce the sound when I take my hand and rock the car just a little bit. What that might be? Or if I should be concerned?
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When I turn hard right & left, near the left wheel well there's a little metallic clicking sound. Either way I still don't what it is. Upon inspection when I removed the wheel the I noticed that the red portion with the large arrow is able to move clockwise and counter clockwise. Just curious as to whether or not this should be capable of happening.
Wheel baring, control arm and bushings have been mentioned from Le Shwab's workers... I dunno though I need Vortex's opinion
When collar 3 is turned all the way down it can't rotate, but I'm almost positive that collar 2 and 3 are suppose to remain in contact with one another to prevent movement of collar 1. Just making sure that my theories are correct.
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So today, when I rolled down my passenger window (2007 Sonata GLS) to talk to someone, I heard a popping sound and the window refused to roll back up. I got the car home and started tearing into the door panel (okay, not literally). By viewing different threads here, I have the door panel off, outside handle is off, all screws loosened (including the 3 for the door latch) and am trying to get the inner sheet metal panel off.
From everything I've read, you need to roll the window up the whole way in order to get the inner panel off; however I cannot get the window up the whole way! By lifting up on it, I have it about 2/3 raised, but it won't budge any more. I have been able to see that the window cable is broken (which explains why the window won't raise), but am at a loss on how to proceed. I'm leery of trying to force the window up any more. I'm tempted to try to pry the inner panel back enough to get the two bolts holding the window loose, but don't want to force *that* either.
So, how to get the window all the way up? And/or the inner door panel off?
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I purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
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I've searched through prior threads but all the trunk issues seem to revolve around either the motorized trunks or wiring loom, my issue is a bit different.
On my recently acquired 2005 Phaeton the trunk unlocks and locks fine, but it does not "pop" up at all. I end up having to pry my fingers under the lid to lift it up(harder to do than you'd think). The trunk shocks hold it up fine and everything else seems normal. Would this be an issue with the latch itself?
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I recently took my car in for service and complained of the exhaust clicking (very audible) after the car is off. This clicking can also be heard when the car is running too - it is not as prevalent though. The service advisor said she spoke with several technicians and they said this was normal. The reason they cited was the stainless steel exhaust system in the Phaeton. They also said that humidity will exacerbate the sound.
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I rented my car for a few days on Turo and it returned with this problem. The renter says nothing happened, who knows. When I raise or lower the window, there is a loud pop/crack that happens. It always happens at the same height. I can raise and lower the window for a couple inch around that point and reproduce that sound everythime.
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2010 Explorer XLT. The left rear power window lowers, but does not raise back up with the driver's master control switch (the 4 switch control on the driver's door). It does, however, lower and raise fine with the single switch on it's own rear door. Thinking it was a bad master switch module on the driver's door, I replaced it and the same thing still happens - works fine with it's own single switch but will only lower and not raise with the driver's door switch. All the other windows work fine. This has me totally stumped.
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I have a 2012 accent. Left front window rapidly clicks when I try to raise and lower glass and glass won't move.
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I know that this features is handy if you are over 6 ft tall but why do they automatically raise when you open the door even if the passenger measures 4 ft? Is there a way to turn of this feature if, for example you whant better access to the rear window for cleaning?
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Still trying to track down my electrical issues. While poking around in the engine compartment near the fuse panel by firewall - i heard a clicking sound coming from the two cylinders near the fuse panel.
They are cylinders - side by side - about 1 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches tall - with electrical connections and either fuel or vacuum lines attached. What are these? Some sort of solenoids? Are they part of the EVAP system?
How long should they continue to "click" after the car is turned off? Mine kept going for a half hour. I then disconnected the left side battery and it stopped. 5 hours later after fully charging the battery I hooked it up again - and the clicking came back. Is this normal or could it be a source of my battery drain?.
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Since I had my 40k service a few months back, I hear a knocking sound for about 3-5 seconds after a cold start (overnight is long enough). It's a pretty loud clicking sound, even worse if the car hasn't been started for a few days.
I brought it to the dealership and they said it's "the sound of the lifters clicking before they get pressurized with oil". They said the oil level is fine. Doesn't seem kosher to me - didn't happen before the 40k service.
Could they have used the wrong oil? Or perhaps didn't put something back together again properly?
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My sis drove the Phaeton yesterday and we had to go through some nerve-wrecking parking. The gaps were only a few milimetres across but luckily we made it through the lot in the end. Anyway, we had to do a lot of full steering turns (that is, when the wheel is turned to its maximum) and there's a worrying clicking sound that goes on until the steering is turned back from its maximum radius. Is it a problem or just a minor thing?
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I am looking to do window tinting and I would like opinions.
What are thoughts on the following tints?
3M FX Premium non-metallic film
Huper Optik Performa / Extreme.
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Today on my 1-year-old RX 350:
moonroof makes a slight "ratcheting" sound when I raise or lower it,though Roof slides open and closed perfectly.
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Metallic Clicking During Light Acceleration on Prius C....
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What maybe causing a metallic clicking from my back seat. It sounds like it's coming from the center of the rear bench seat. It happens sporadically. Just started when it got cold out.
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Transmission on occasion will have a metallic clicking come from transmission, I do not want to replace, car is not worth 6,000 to replace transmission.
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I should probably arm myself with a sound clip, you can hear it with radio off windows up, but more prevalent outside or windows down. whenever I stop and release the brake, there is a metallic clank noise that is heard outside the car. now I didn't want to bring it up to the dealer, but at my last service interval, I test drove a brand new Prius C and I could not duplicate it. So I don't know if its something that developed after it brakes in and is normal.. The prius C I test drove was utterly quite going from brake to gas until the point the whirling sound starts. mine has a metallic clank and it usually is not immediately as I release but within a second, and I thought maybe it was a change in the regen system, but now I am more curious as a brand new one did not make that sound.
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