Phaeton :: W12 Engine Misfiring - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 7
Mar 28, 2016
The engine sometimes has misfiring, and the VCDS reports "Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 7, sporadically". I changed the spark plug, the injector and the ignition coil. So the problem remained and after about 600-800kms the fault came back. Now I moved a little bit the cables of the injector plug and I noticed that the problem is solved, until a few hundred kms were driven. The cyl. 7 is near front side and I could move the cables to the injector plug under the intake manifold.
Now I know, that the problem is the plug of injector (see pics)....
My question.... I bought the plug but it is not the complete like on the pics, it's only the middle part where the cables go in. It has not this sponge-like thing which is in the whole in which goes in the cable. The grey thing which locks the plug is also not in the new plug. Maybe if I have to exchange this small parts on the new plug? I can't imagine how to change the plug, do I have to cut the cables and put them in the new plug. What kind of attachement do the cables have in this plastic plug?
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Yesterday driving to work felt the engine missing, on the way home got a CEL pulled the code when I got home it was P0302, so I started with the easy and put a new coil pack, same issue, so I prayed and pulled the plug (it didn't break). Put a new plug and a second new coil pack (just to be sure, and yes I keep extras dang 5.4). cleared codes and started it this time got P0202 Ford - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2, so I checked Ohms on #2 and it was 12.6, #1, 3, 5,6 all have 13 Ohms, didn't check #4, 7, or 8 because my big hands and the probes on my multi meter. Checked the wires on all of them and have 12 volts with key on, not running. I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching. Is there something I am missing to check before replacing the injector on #2?
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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I have for a week suspected my batteries were getting weak. just slower cranking is all. I took my truck in to have a viper security system installed and while he was doing his work he killed the batteries. I saw him hook up a battery charger and started the truck. He pulled it around to me and explained how the system worked and off i went. 5 miles down the road, on the thruway, I notice a miss and I'm down on power. FICM looked ok, 48V and it was charging, 13.8 I thought I would bring it to my shop and load test the batteries. On my way here, the check engine light comes on. At the shop, load tested them and they were weak. Installed 2 brand new batteries, started it up, no difference. Hooked up the scanner and pulled a code P2077 (cylinder 6 injector circuit high) Now what? I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm guessing either the FICM went bad or the #6 injector?
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Have a 2004 F350 which had problems starting cold and once started had bad throttle response until warm. It also had a shudder at cruising speed when going up a slight incline, would shudder until turbo kicked in.
Pulled codes which related to FICM and codes for all 8 injectors. 7 injector codes were circuit low, cylinder 1 high. Tested FICM voltage and sent FICM out for repair.
Installed rebuilt FICM, cleared codes, and hard start went away, but cruising shudder is still present.
Only existing code is P0262 for cylinder 1 injector circuit high. I'm assuming that cylinder 1 injector is bad -- are there any tests to confirm before I take it apart to replace it?
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Engine light came on yesterday and started missing on take offs. Giving code p2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low. I've done the research and understand the problem. It's the weekend and shops closed until Monday. Is it safe to drive in the mean time? Is there any risk of doing damage? What's the risk of it quitting or failing start in the short term, today?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe, V4, 2.4L.
So the other day, my CEL and I got it scanned: p0320, or "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction."
It was accompanied with two symptoms:
1. The car will sometimes sputter on startup, and the tachometer will be zeroed out. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on, and it will start normally, albeit with a bit of a misfire on idle.
2. The car will sometimes die while at a stop. Just like the first symptom, if I turn the car off and turn it back on, it will work normally.
I looked on here, and it seemed like everyone solved a p0320 by replacing the Ignition Failure Sensor. So that's exactly what I did. But nothing changed; I still have the symptoms, and the CEL came back on and is still reading p0320.
What should be my next step? Could it be faulty wires that give power to the Ignition Failure Sensor?
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the warning light went off in my car, so I took it to Autobarn in Evanston (where I bought the car). people are nice there.
I was told that I need to replace the harness for the fuel injectors. it is all under warranty, so it's fine. but I really would like to know how long should it take? the car is there from yesterday morning, and it's not ready yet. should it take more than 2 days to replace?
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When starting my T-Reg leaving work yesterday, the yellow exhaust malfunction light (located in the rpm guauge -- it looks like an engine but the manual refers to it as an exhaust malfunction) came on and would blink now and then and remain on.
I proceeded to drive home and the entire ride was choppy and the engine was hesitant and misfiring. When I arrived home, I turned the Reg of and then back on again and the light never came on. I drove it around the block and it was fine.
We have been experiencing tremendous cold weather in the Northeast (-20 to -30 with the wind chill). Reg started fine this morning, no light. Was this a function of the computer resetting itself?
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i have a 2008 santa fe with a 2.7 61,000 miles 2nd owner ,out of warranty. It started missing and the check engine light came on. I took it to a local parts store who put an analyzer on it an it showed the #3 spark plug was misfiring. I am hoping its the plug. I do my own work but havn`t been able to find a correct sequence to replace the plugs.
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I have a 4 cylinder, 2002 Nissan Altima with about 170,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, the car starting misfiring while driving and the engine light came on. I went to autozone, used their diagnostic tool and it said I needed to replace the fourth cylinder's ignition coil. I ended up just replacing the spark plugs at that point. After replacing the spark plugs, the misfiring seemed to stop, but the check engine light was still on although the car ran great in comparison.
Then, about 2 weeks ago, the car started smelling like gas and slightly misfiring again. I bought set of ignition coils and changed them out. I started it up, the car seemed to work great. I went to the store about an hour later and the car worked better all the way there with no problems. Then, as I was about to leave the store, I started the car up and it started sputtering and misfiring and you could visibly see the engine shaking like crazy when I popped the hood. It stopped shaking, evened itself out, after about a minute. Then, I felt the top each of the coils and the first three were fine, but the fourth had a rapid tapping coming from it that was obviously not right.
I gave it a couple of days, but the car didn't stop smelling like gas or misfiring when starting up, so I pulled out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The fourth spark plug was brown and burnt from the bottom to the halfway point, unlike the other still-clean spark plugs. My first hopeful thought was, maybe it wasn't tight enough and that was letting gas or oil inside to burn. I tightened it up, put everything back and it seemed to be alright, even the tapping from the coil stopped.
However, within the last couple days, the car has been smelling like gas and feels like it sputters and misfires once I start it up. The misfiring seems to stop after I rev the engine a little bit, but sometimes when I'm idling, you can still smell the gas and sometimes audibly hear a sputtering.
So my question is: what the hell could be wrong? Faulty wires, a stuck valve, bad compression, what? Remember, the fourth cylinder's spark plug was only burnt on the bottom half if that's useful.
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I've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
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I bought a 2005 Camry LE 2.4 4 cylinder. It was rather loud while driving, but especially while accelerating. It had error code P0420 from the beginning. It had a completely broken torque strut which I eventually replaced. Afterward since it toned down the kicking from the engine, I was able to notice that I could feel and hear the engine kicking like a cylinder misfiring. The computer gave me error code P0353 (Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction) consistently, and only a couple of times gave me error code P0500 (Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction) which went away.
I swapped the ignition coil and spark plugs around but the error code would persist on the same cylinder. The spark plugs didn't look particularly worn but I'm not experienced on what bad plugs look like. The codes persisted still, but later on P0353 went away, and the obvious kicking stopped but it still ran with a lack of power and hesitating on acceleration along with a strong smell of fuel in the exhaust. I measured the resistance of each fuel injector and all measured the same. I removed and flushed each of them with cleaner, but same situation.
What do you think? I don't get the bad cylinder code anymore but something is clearly wrong. Bad fuel injector? Bad wiring harness? Bad compression or head gasket (maybe from the movement of the engine while the torque strut was bad)? Hopefully not the computer... And could the loud noise be related to this problem or is that probably just a cracked exhaust from when the torque strut was allowing engine movement?
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While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
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2006 6.0 superduty showing low circuit codes on all 8 cylinders so i checked the FICM and it has 48v when key is on and while turning engine over. What to check next?
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
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I've got an injector #7 misfire, so it looks like I'll be replacing my first stick since the warranty expired.
Does the injector from Ford come with the copper crush washer? Will I need to buy anything else except for the oring kit?
where is injector 7? edit: it looks like number 7 is the farthest back on the passenger side. Great! I get to do the hard side.
AE pics below. I've never understood the Power Balance test, it most always looks the same. Seems to me something should look odd with #7, but I'm just not seeing it. As I shut down each cylinder one at a time, all made the engine run noticeably rougher, except it was only a subtle difference when shutting down #7. So that plus the code pointing at #7 lead me to believe that #7 is my culprit.
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I have 2010 F150 King Ranch 5.4L. This truck has been giving us problems by just dying. We have haf it towed twice in two days. It does it more often when hooked up to our travel trailer. The day before yesterday we drove it 250 miles w/o the camper with no problems. Once it dies it can take an hoir or so before it starts. I just did a test and had the truck.running for a bit and then plugged the trailer wiring harness (7 pin with brake control) and truck died within a minute. A couple of times it showed that there codes. The codes were P0201 thri P208. Which is open circuit to that specific injector. When the key is turned off the codes go away.
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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I have a 2013 F150 6.2L and it wont start. It was running great and when I drove it around the corner it just shut down no clunk no warning just bam shut off. I had a engine code P0355 ( which indicated cylinder 5 coil malfunction). changed the coil and it will not fire the engine code has gone away but it will still not fire. I changed the oil just to be safe and no metal shavings in it.... Turns over just fine but will not fire. I added more fuel just to be safe ( thinking maybe I had bad fuel but that didn't work either.
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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