Prius (2001-03) :: Engine Revs But No DTC Codes?
Nov 24, 2014
I have no codes on screens, engine revs and gas mileage has gone down to 30 mpg from 40s this summer. The toyota service adviser said the poor gas mileage was from running the heater since it is around 20 degrees these days in minnesota. My innova scanner shows no DTC's. But my question is do I need a scanguage II or other scanner to get the battery codes? Am I missing them using the innova scanner? What scanners are available for 2001 prius.
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I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
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PCV hose/grommet was rotted out with 1 inch hole but supposedly he spent a long time tracking down the problem. It was located way in the back middle (like underneath the wiper blades area).
2002 F150 XLT Crew Cab 4.6L 4x4 170K
What known issues would do this but not turn engine light on? Motor sounds excellent and runs excellent. Previously it was missing and engine code come up as random misfire, misfire cylinder #2 and #4. I replaced the coil packs on 2 and 4 and erased the code and there was a 1000% difference. Ran excellent (still does).
However, a week later I noticed a subtle shake in the motor, and at idle it would stay at 1...maybe slowly chirp just above 1, and then sputter a little down to 1/2 rpm. It will do this and stay running, but sometimes it will cut off.
What are the possible things that you think it could be considering no check engine codes? (Bad motor?)
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Toyota read the codes wrong and told me that I need a new hybrid battery. That is incorrect info. Codes P0300 P0301 P0302P0303. The codes mean misfire in cylinders 1 , 2 and 3. I have had injector cleaned in the past new spark plugs. If I drive it it gets warmed up and shuts down. It will restart and run maybe 7 more miles the same. The brake light comes on and I have to restart it.
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My daughter 03 Prius died on her, the codes it threw are listed as P3108, P3191,P3101. We cleaned MAF and throttle and this did not solve the problem. We replaced the MAF with a remanufactured unit from O'Reilly's and now the car drives normally, but the check engine and red exclamation light are still on.
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Master warning light came on, I turned the car off and the engine would not start again. it had engine codes p3105 and p3115. the p3115 is the code for the main relay, even with the chilton manual i cant locate the main main relay. also the hybrid battery is dead. Where the main relay is? if and how to charge the hybrid battery?
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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My 2012 prius C engine suddenly started reving up even after taking my foot off the peddle and it doesnt go back in to EV mode at lower speeds as usual ...it is something wrong with the senses ?? Do i need to my car to the dealership ?
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The spring (or let's call it a few warmer days) has finally came to Ireland and my sensitive ear started to notice rather quiet clicking noise from the engine. The noise gets faster (you'd get more clicks pers second) when the engine revs up.
It is not very obvious, the two mechanics I asked told me that they can't hear anything and instructed me to enjoy the sun - but I definitely can notice when the ICE starts or shuts down just by presence of this clicking noise.
What's strange, when it has been raining for some time I don't hear it anymore, the engine runs very smooth and quiet. It will keep quiet in the roofed parking garage too - so it is not the rain just masking the sound.
It does not matter if the ICE is hot or cold too. I removed the serpentine belt and have run the engines for a moment without water pomp - but the sound is still there... The oil and filter has been recently changed too.
Apart from that the car runs fine. I get slightly below the typical fuel economy (5.9l/100km = 40mpg(us)) but I think it is still OK: I run only short distances (5-10 miles tops) and decided to ignore the pulse'n'glide technique as it kept my focus off the road.
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When I drive the PiP in EV Boost mode, the gas engine rpm stays very low, so is the engine sound. It sounds like it is just idling since it revs at 1,000 rpm.
When I am going 75 mph, the engine revs at very low rpm and I had a hard time keeping it below 80 mph. My mind is tricked into believing I am going slower than the actual speed. I think I am using the sound of the engine to judge the speed or something.
It felt like I am driving a different car, one with two more cylinders.
EV Boost is when you are in EV and go above 65 mph. ICE comes on and blend gas with electricity.
Is it just me? What are your experience in the EV Boost / Blended mode?
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We have a 2006 CM later model Santa Fe 2.2 CDX+ 7 seater. Engine light came on last week and since then car does not shift into 4th gear. It revs very high upto 5000rpm with no increase in speed, it's limited to 30-35mph.
I had this problem back in 2010 where the Hyundai franchise identified a fault with the EGR which was replaced under warranty, and then a year later a problem with the fuel sensor which was also replaced.
I had the local garage check the EGR and give it a clean based on the steps provided by a member here - no change. So I took it to Hyundai but this time, they are reporting fault codes P0733 and P0744 which point to transmission problems. I just had a call from the garage who say they believe the gear synchromesh is jamming thus not allowing the change of gears. He said that the diagnostics report that the car is sending the gear change command correctly (pulse generator ok) so does not believe it is an electrical fault.
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I have a 2001 1.8t beetle and doing some research to buy parts I came across two different engine codes. My trunk says I have a AWV engine but the cylinder head says AWM. This is really confusing as looking them up I get three entirely different options for this car.
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My '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
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A 2001 Prius is getting a warning triangle. No check engine light, and with my OBDII scanner, it shows there are no codes. I can erase and the triangle goes out, but it comes back on eventually. It seems only if the car is driven a long time/distance it comes on, indicating some heat issue perhaps.
The 12v battery is good, the radiator coolant is good, the inverter coolant is good and flowing. The washer fluid hose is broken, could THAT give the death triangle? There must be a way to have the cars display whats wrong with the fancy software and touch screen?
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My 2001 Honda CR-V with 120,000 miles has been sending misfire codes for the past couple of weeks. I replaced the distributor rotor and cap, plugs (NGK's) and wires, and the light disappeared after a couple of driving cycles. Then, it came back on about a week later. I had it diagnosed at a shop for compression and everything was good. I had read about the valve issues so I had the valves adjusted.
The car seems to run without any hiccup at all, and its been over 150 miles since the valve adjustment but the engine light remains on with the misfire codes.
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I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
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Have an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.
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I got an 2001 f150 4.2l v6, 5speed. It started running real rough almost like it was hitting on only 3 cylinders I replaced the crank sensor and did a tune up on it along with a new coil pack and now it won't hit a lick the plugs are getting fire, it's getting fuel but, will not start it's not throwing any engine codes. Which leads me to believe it may have a bad ecm.
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What to look for. 2001 escape 3.0 starts and runs but it has a miss and no codes came up yet . the engine will rev up but it really takes time to idle down . don't matter if its cold or hot it just don't want to drop to idle as fast as it should.
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My 2001 Prius has 77K. It has done warning lights before and always been a gas cap that was not tightened or a misfire code three times since I bought it last spring. It has been driven very little when I was rear-ended and my Camry was totaled. It coughed a little when I started it, but had no problem driving the first 40 miles. I stopped for about 5 minutes to stretch. When I tried to start it to continue to work, all the warning lights came on and it died. I tightened the gas cap and restarted the car to have it die 2 more times. Third time it stayed on and I was planning on limping two blocks to AutoZone to have the codes read, when it rolled to a stop. No forward, no reverse. By the time the tow arrived, it would go forward. The codes were P3101 and 12689.
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P0420 CATALYST EFF BELOW THRESHOLD
P0440 EVAP EMISSION SYSTEM
P0441 EVAP EMM SYSTEM INCORRECT PURGE FLOW
P0446 EVAP VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT
P3190
P3191
P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE
P0301 CYL 1 MISFIRE
P0304 CYL 4 MISFIRE
Was driving on highway in mild rain and car started to shudder and stalled. I ran it on the electric motor for a while to get out of traffic so it's fairly drained. Has a year old main battery and a year old 12V Optima battery. Car has 202,000 miles.
The cat code and possibly evap were on all year as check engine light has been on. I get the triangle of death with exclamation point on the right car icon on the screen as well as the check engine light. After resetting the codes the triangle hasn't come back. Haven't rechecked the other codes as it was a borrowed generic scanner.
Just checked the 12V battery at Autozone and they say it's good but discharged. Car won't start and it seems to kill the 12V battery if left to sit. I did the throttle body and MAF clean even though they both looked ok. A little oil in the intake so I mopped it up. Didn't work. I hooked up another 12V battery with jumper cables and it doesn't work. Checked the fuel pump relay and it's ok. I pulled spark plug 1 and it was fine. Check main battery and 12V connections -all fine - tight and no corrosion.
I'll try to check fuel pressure and spark.
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