Prius (2001-03) :: Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Master Warning Light Came On?
Feb 15, 2011
I bought a 2001 Prius from a private seller after they had just replaced the Hybrid battery with a Gen II battery and it has been running great until the last few days.
First the Malfunction Indicator Lamp and Master Warning Light came on and my husband and I took it to a dealer. The dealer said the error code was P3000 but didn't know more than that. He said he didn't know if the v12 battery currently in the car is the correct battery and he said it looked like it wasn't secured correctly. He said I would have to take it somewhere else to have it worked on.
When we picked up the car everything was normal again and none of the warning indicators came on. After driving it for about 80 miles both warning indicators came on again. I continued driving the car 15 miles, turned it off for about 5 hours and when I turned it on again only the Malfunction Indicator Lamp came on. At first my gas mileage was unaffected but now it has decreased slightly. I usually get about 41 mpg and I'm getting about 37-38 mpg since we picked up the car.
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On my way home from work tonight, the master warning light and the check engine (malfunction indicator lamp) appeared on the dashboard, and the hybrid system warning light has popped up on the multi-informational display.
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I got this exact warning Monday which is discussed in this thread (linked below) and its problem was a bad inverter water pump while mine seems fine: . Also in the linked thread another whom had gotten the exact warning, but inverter pump was not the problem, believed it meant the Hybrid battery was bad and replaced it. , but mine, at least for now, as discussed below, seems fine.
was about to make a trip, 140 miles, gassed up and when leaving station all these (quoted below) warning lights came on. and the car should have been operating in cold condition still as gas station was only a few miles from home. :
Master Warning Light, Malfunction Indicator, VSC, (!), and Hybrid System Warning on Screen.
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In my one-owner purchased-new 2005 Prius w/ 74K miles and w/ no maintenance/accident history other than doing all scheduled maintenances at Toyota Dealers along w/ recalls applicable at each time (other than we had Toyota replace the 12V battery last year just because I knew it would die at some point anyway and I don't like pushing my luck; I'm not 100% certain if there's been a recall on any water pump for this car and if so, don't believe the dealer has mentioned it), I have the following indicators which appeared all at once while I was driving along at around 45 MPH in no unusual circumstances (80F, dry afternoon, about 30 minutes into a trip of mixed speeds, no loads in the vehicle, no effect on the car while driving):
From Left to Right on the display:
1) Red Triangle - Master Warning Light
2) Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3) Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light (but it didn't highlight the word 'Brake' in red)
4) Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
On the Screen:
Orange Car w/ the ! symbol - Hybrid System Warning Light
We immediately aimed for the house (about 5 miles away); the car drove perfectly fine, with the engine stopping and starting at lights as needed, with speeds going from the 55MPH we were traveling at the time of the alarms down to 0 and back up thru 35/45 MPH and such per normal off-interstate driving. The battery currently shows all the blue bars, and the engine and hybrid systems showed charge/discharge as usual as we drove. There was no discernible change in the driving reaction of the car to brake, steering, accelerator, etc.
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Car is running fine.. I cant tell any changes in the car at all. Going to the dealer to get fixed and also make them fix my darn headliner that has supposedly been on backorder for 3 months now.
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I pulled my 2005 Prius out of the garage today and parked it on the driveway. When I went back later that day to pull it back under the garage, nothing would work and the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" came on. I was thinking my battery in my key had gone bad and replaced it. When I tried to start the car for the second time the engine would not turnover, the clock light looked dim, the locks would not work and my headlights would not come on.
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My 2004 Prius won't start for the first time in its 45,000 miles. First try only the malfunction indicator lamp went on. After a pause and a few tries later, the fuel gauge and gear indicator cluster flashed on and off while I was attempting to start (fuel indicator racing across its grid and gear indicators outlined with "dotted" lines -- tank is 1/2 full BTW).
Later tries got no response except the malfunction lamp. I tried both keys in the ignition, also checked door lock functions, and found the keys will still lock the doors, but the click is noticeably weak and the unlock function doesn't work.
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 34,000 miles. While I was driving yesterday the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I returned home (was 20 miles away), but did not notice anything wrong while driving. Thanks to Priuschat, I found discussions that said to check if the gas cap was on correctly; sure enough, mine was not on tightly. I've just put the cap back on, but when I started the car, the malfunction indicator still came on. Will the warning light clear on it's own (if the problem was the gas cap).
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I have an 08 prius with about 36k miles on it. Never had a problem other then getting the water pump replaced under warranty during scheduled maintenance.
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I have a 2001 Prius, my wife went and got an oil change and soon after she left the car shut off and the master warning light came on and it now acts as if the battery is dead ???
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2001 Prius, 182,000 miles... Master Warning Light and brake light came on.....
I took it to the local dealer and they did a diagnostic, and they pulled the codes P0300, P3125, P0301, P0302, P0420, P3006, P3016, P3017. They said I would need to replace the the hybrid battery, the inverter, the catalytic converter, and the spark plugs.
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Recently bought a 02 with 34 K, had been well maintained. Last night it wouldn't start so hubby jumped it (properly). Started right away, making him think that wasn't what it needed. Right after that, the Master Warning light came on, the Car with Exclamation Point in it (hybrid system warning light) and the check engine light. The car runs, but it did die, and I had to restart the car, then seemed to drive fine. We don't live near a Toyota dealer, would a regular mechanic be able to read the codes properly? What else should we consider? Should we drive the car?
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The master waning light came on while I was commuting on the freeway. There was no MIL. I've seen this a month or so ago and, as before, since nothing seemed wrong, I kept going. The last time this happened the warning went away after a day or so. This time it is sticking around. As before, there seems to be no problem with the car -- 80 mile commute, no loss of power, same gas mileage as before. I have a generic ELM327 OBD reader. I tried reading codes but there were none (at least none that it could read since there was no MIL).
Any second source for the Prius Mini-Scanner (or have one they want to sell)? Or, can a regular OBD scanner be trained to read the special prius codes?
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Master warning light came on, I turned the car off and the engine would not start again. it had engine codes p3105 and p3115. the p3115 is the code for the main relay, even with the chilton manual i cant locate the main main relay. also the hybrid battery is dead. Where the main relay is? if and how to charge the hybrid battery?
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Yesterday (Saturday), I stopped to get gas in my 2004 Passat. I left the gas station and forgot to put the gas cap back on and close the gas cap door properly. I drove about 2 miles home and then noticed I had left it open so I closed it. I didn't drive the car anymore yesterday but then took it to church this morning and when I did, the malfunction indicator lamp (yellow light that looks like an engine) came and and remained on. I turned the car off and then restarted it and it remained on.
When I looked in the owners manual, it says this is related to the emissions system. On other cars I've owned, not having the gas cap on tight can cause the "check engine" light to come on so I'm basically assuming the equivalent happened here. Any way to turn that light off easily? I assume it would go out over time and/or the next time I get gas as has typically been the case in other cars I've owned (including a 2000 VW Eurovan). The car runs fine and doesn't seem to have any other issues or problems.
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I just starts my 1999 VW Passat (manual) today, and the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) was on. The car is shaking the most when I change gears, then it shakes but it's ok when I'm driving. I saw it could be bad, and I shouldn't drive the car. I drove to a VW dealer garage to fix it.
I just wanted to know what it could be, if you had the same problem and what it was. Also how much it should be too, etc. I know that my engine was hot yesterday, it was smelling a bit burned after a couple of very steep hills in San Francisco, I was using a lot the first gear because of stop signs and cars behind and in front of me.
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So 3 weeks ago, I noticed the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I immediately went to the Auto Zone and have them use the diagostnic device to identify the "malfunction". The device pulls out "p1136 manufactured controlled fuel and air metering." The guy said it could be the gas cap being loose so he loosens it and tightens it. He said he would erase the message and advised me to go to an auto mechanic shop if the lamp light shows up. That evening the light lit up.
I haven't driven that car for approx 3 days then I drove it to go get gas. After I got gas, the light disappeared. I dunno why. It stayed disappeared until several days later. So, i am wondering...is it a big a problem? can i still drive?
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Yesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
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Out driving the other day and suddenly lost power and dash illuminated the EPC and Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Did a bee line to my home and experienced loss of power and engine vibration. At traffic lighta it emitted large quantities of white or blue smoke that smelled like gas.
Connected to VCDS and had 4 codes:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
000769 - Cylinder 1 P0301 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
004874 - Cylinder Disabling
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
My assumption was a bad coil, so I swapped them but no joy. Then decided to swap coils and plugs and observed cylinder #1 was filled with gas. Siphoned it out and it was able to fill about 1/4th of a beer bottle, or 3 ounces. Top of piston #2 looked slightly wet, but the origin could have been overflow from #1 via intake manifold. I'm thinking #1 injector stuck in the open position. Car is out of warranty so it may be on my dime unless I can convince dealer that this is power-train or emissions related. Best case, I need one or two injectors, oil replacement from gas contamination, plugs and labor. I thought about the worst case and it could be the above + a complete short block + catalytic converter. No tune, 100% stock
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Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
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I've just bought a 2005 Santa Fe CRDI 2.0 Second hand, one owner from new, 60,000miles in 7 years. Just had it's 60,000 mile service. Until today perfect. Started car and no revs. but when I put in gear and moved the car, the revs kicked in and I was able to drive normally. Pulled over to side, into neutral, no revs FOR 1 2 or 3 SECONDS, then revved as normal, put in gear, and able to drive OK. Meanwhile, the MIL light came on and stayed on. I know what the hand book says but before I take it to our Hyundai dealer.
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