Prius (2001-03) :: Warning Lights Goes Off - Engine Cabin Filter And Fuel Injection Cleaning?
Aug 5, 2015
Went to dealership today for oil change, they said they didn't see any leaks, didn't see anything wrong, etc. The warning lights haven't went back on since yesterday morning. I'll keep watching, I hope they don't activate again.
By the way, for everyone who had a 2003 Prius, how many miles did you get with your main battery? The dealership said they usually go after 100,000 miles and need to replace.
At 130,000 they also recommend an engine cabin filter and fuel injection cleaning. Seems like an automotive store would be cheaper for the cabin filter?
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So my 2011 maintenance book says to "clean" my cabin air filter at 15,000 miles. I haven't pulled it out yet but after reading 10,000 posts on the subject, not once did I see a reference to anyone "cleaning" a cabin air filter.... Am I missing something ?
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Took my 2005 Prius for an oil change. Dealer called and recommended fuel injection service because of carbon buildup and mileage (50,000). On my way home on a mild day with heat and AC off it didn't shut off at stop lights all the way home. Battery was charged. Never had this happen before and it's demoralizing because I really love my car!
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I just posted last week that my check engine light was on and the dealer wanted to replace fuel injectors. But after the fuel throttle was cleaned and oxygen sensor was replaced the check engine light went off. However, yesterday the check engine light came back on. I am talking it back to the dealer, in a couple of days. Where can I go to get to get the error codes read so I have them before I go back to the dealer? Around 128,000 runs fine, around 40 miles per gallon. Last time I had the oil change dealer nothing came up on the 30 point inspection.
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So I was driving for a couple of hours today in my recently acquired 2001 Prius, when the red warning triangle and the check engine lights came on. The car seemed to still drive fine (70 ish mph cruising). HV Battery? P3000 P3020 Error codes.....
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I have a 2001 prius jap import. On a trip it beeped and up came the triangle, check engine light and car with !. The car lost all power and the engine stalled when I pulled over. I plugged in my obd2 scanner and no codes except 3000. Took it to our local toyota dealer who confirmed that code. Had the battery swapped out and still it does the same except now no codes. The car has below normal pickup speed and I can hear the engine rev a little but it does not seem to make any difference. Seems all the power comes from the battery. It will stall when all the error lights come on.
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This afternoon, after driving about 150 miles, I came home and shut off my 2001 Prius. It was sitting for about 20 minutes before I turned it back on to drive off. Almost immediately, the hybrid warning light came on on the MFD, the red exclamation mark light illuminated, as well as the check engine light, and the motor shut off. I popped the hood, and could hear a high pitched squeal coming from near the inverter. I called my dealer to ask the service department what I should do, and they just told me to bring it in and they will take a look at it. I live over an hour away, so I don't want to bring it there if I can avoid it. I then shut it off and let it sit for a few hours.
After reading about the possibility of the auxiliary battery being bad, I went and turned the Prius on, and then shut it off several times to reset the hybrid warning light (I had to do so in order to access the aux battery information through the MFD). It turned on without incident, and shut off fine, and after being reset the hybrid warning light shut off, as well as the red triangle light. Then, I went through the process of pulling up the battery voltage information through the MFD.
With the car off, and the lights and fans off, the battery voltage read about 10.0-10.5 V. With the lights and fan on, the voltage dropped to about 9.5 V. After getting those readings, I drove it down the road a little ways, just going about 20 mph. It seemed to work fine. The check engine light is still illuminated. With the motor running, the voltage reading was 13.2 V, and then when I got back from my test drive and shut it off, the voltage hovered at 10.6 V with the lights and fan on.
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Replaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
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I decided to go for a stroll and about 10 minutes after heading out, sudden the Brake and ABS lights come on along with a screeching alarm sound from the cabin. I pulled over right away to check for leaks and my brake fluid. There were no leaks and brake fluid was full. I decided to head back home and when I turned the car back on, I lost most of my brake pedal and it became completely spongy and would sink down when depressed. I had to drive home with my emergency lights at about 15 miles per hr in hopes of being able to stop in time. I double checked when I came home, no leaks whatsoever.
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My 04 Elantra GT hatch is my lifetime favorite car. Especially like the rear seats that fold flat. It has 104k miles, but I want to keep it going.
Day before yesterday the blower started making loud noises. I took car back to Pepboys who replaced the cabin air filter they put in a month ago. They had installed it incorrectly, and it shredded with a 6 inch hole in the middle, and paper everywhere. When I left, the fan was not making any unusual noises.
Yesterday I drove 20 minutes on freeway, stopped to shop, started driving, and turned on fan. Immediately the check light went on. Back to Pepboys, service manager said check was P0501 and was a transmission speed sensor that couldn't be related to the filter mess.
Last night I found the Hyundai forum and I read in a post that this is a wheel speed sensor that would be located in the right front wheel and well not far from the cabin filter. Is it possible that the debris from the fan/filter collision has affected this speed sensor? Or is this just a very untimely coincidence?
I know nothing about automobiles. What I should do next and thereafter? Is it safe to drive this car as usual until the problem is fixed?
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Just purchased a 2012 Prius a few weeks ago. if cabin air filter preinstalled in the new cars?
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I had a surprise this morning when I attempted to put in a new Cabin Air Filter. These filters look square at first glance, but are actually rectangular -- about 7-3/4" x 8-3/8" or so.
The issue is that the pleats on the one that came with the car run in a different direction than the one I purchased from my local Toyota dealer.
While the obvious enough solution would be to simply rotate the new filter 90* before putting it into the plastic carrier, this is impossible since the plastic carrier has a divider that runs parallel to the pleats.
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Bought a 2013 model last spring. Yesterday, When I made a trip to airport for dropping my girl friend off. I drove it back about 35miles to home. A/C ON makes terrible smell. Immediately I suspect for condition of cabin air filter from my experience from the past. After I switched it back and forth of recirculation switch. I am pretty sure it is involving with. Now I tried to reach it. But I can not figure out how to take grove box rid with out giving a damage. Even it may not there behind a glove box (my wild guess).
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I need to change the engine and cabin filter on our Camry what brand do you recommend also does it really matter if you purchase the expensive filters vs 5.00 to 10.00 ones? I ask because looks like Toyota OEM filters are normal paper filters.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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After replacing the cabin air filter I heard a loud noise from the fan area in the car. I rechecked the installation which was ok. I then reached down into the fan assembly, and there was the problem, some leaves had fallen into the fan when I removed the old filter. Took out the leaves , and all is well.
I replaced the OEM filter with a Fram Fresh Breeze filter which interesting enough only had half as many folds. I figure a big company like Fram must know what they are doing?
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What are the toyota part numbers for 2012 SE 4cyl...
1) Engine Air Filter(element)
2) Cabin Air Filter
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Every day for the last four years the timer on the air filter drives me crazy. It insists on switching from filter to outside air after three minutes, which sucks back in all the Diesel fumes and dust I just finished filtering. I would very much like to disable the timer. I'm not afraid of cutting wires.
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While driving from SD to Chicago today 2 warnings popped up at the same time saying to change the oil and fuel filters. Had both done 2500 miles ago. Am I right that the Dealer just didn't reset these? I thought these were measured by miles and driving habits.
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Not sure if there is a post for this, but I could not find one.
I recently replaced my cabin air filter in my '12 PiP. When I went to put the little door back on, the clip that holds the door into place on the left (not the "click" side), broke right off of the housing.
I have the piece, but not sure I can glue this back on with any success.
Do I have to take the whole dash apart to get the housing out to replace? It really is the smallest little plastic piece.
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When I replaced the cabin air filter recently, I noticed the little latch loop on the left hand side bottom was broken. I just put it together and it does not rattle.
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