Prius (2001-03) :: Way To Diagnose P3009 Error Code Source
Jul 3, 2013
The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code by unhooking the 12V battery for a moment or using a code reader. Now turn the key on/ but NOT start/ready mode, wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not return, turn key to start to "ready mode" and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code appears now (can take up to a minute or so), the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in a few minutes without a scan tool or "megger" while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.
Ideally you want 3009 in battery case. That might be fixable without buying anything, just take apart battery and clean bus bars etc. If your bus bars are really "gooey", new ones are available from the dealer for a couple hundred bucks. Inverter is harder to replace, transaxle is the hardest.
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Could a bad transmission cause error code P3030 and P3009?
This car has no other symptoms other than the Mil light and the check engine light.
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I need assitance on the following diagnostic report. My prius shows:-
1. Red triangle with exclamation mark,
2. On the LCD red car with exclamation mark,
3. ABS sign - on and off.
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A warning came on the display with the words "PS Main" and a picture of a battery. I took it to a dealer and he gave me the bad news: I allegedly need a new hybrid (main) battery. The diagnostic code was P3009--I didn't know about sub-codes, so I didn't ask if there were any. P3009 means that there is an electrical leak from the main battery.
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I picked up a 2004 Prius with 150k. It has no check engine light and no codes with a scangauge. I hooked it up to a mini-vci with techstream and found the following: P3009-526, C1310 and B1421. The car will only start if you reset codes, then after a few minutes of running the red triangle comes back.
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I bought an '04 prius about a month ago and it has already been at Toyota for over a week. It get's the red triangle, the yellow brake light, and the hybrid red car on the screen and says Problem! I took it to the dealer and he pulled the codes P3009 and info code 526. When you open the hood, the inverter overflow tank is boiling, so it must be overheating. I have read about the pumps going out and when the engine is cool there is turbulence in the overflow tank.
The guy I bought it from did say he had replaced the water pump recently. Toyota kept it for a week trying to replicate and couldn't, and even had the regional rep look at it.
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Bought a used 2002 Prius in December of last year. When I got it home the hybrid system warning light and the check engine light came on, but after reading through priuschat for a few hours I thought to take a look at the engine air filter, which turned out to be utterly filthy. Replaced it and the car ran fantastically for the next 8 months, which was plenty of time for me to fall utterly in love with how quiet it is and how smooth a ride it is.
The carfax report for the car showed that its battery was replaced shortly before I bought it and that its transmission fluid was changed approximately 20k miles before that, so I thought (apparently mistakenly) that I didn't have to worry too much about either.
During these 8 months the car saw my regular mechanic for oil changes twice, had a bad CV axle replaced and I was told the serpentine belt was glazing and may need to be replaced with the next oil change, but neither I nor my regular mechanic noticed any other issues.
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keep on getting this error code....I think I have exhaust leak , Would that trigger this code ?....is an Exhaust leak is considered a Vacuum leak??
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My Wife was driving our 2001 Prius and got the big triangle and the car went into limp mode.
The Codes were P3100 (info code 196) and P3125 (info code 325)
P3100/196 = Internal Error - Generator CPU Malfunction
3125/325 - Inverter Internal Short. - Generator Inverter Fin - Inverter Internal short
Clear the codes and the car runs fine, but the problem will eventually resurface.
The dealer wanted tor replace both the converter/inverter and HV ECU.
I purchased replacement converter/inverter from Ebay and inverter coolant pump (new) and installed.
Problem eventually resurfaced. I purchased replacement HV ECU from ebay and installed.
Engine would not start (does not attempt to even turn over), but was not throwing any codes. I had this same symptom with a third HV ECU as well. The part numbers on the HV ECU were exact matches.
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I have just won a Mk 1 Prius on eBay and hope I have made a good choice - not having seen the car! There is an error code: 1554 which apparently is why the power steering isn't working
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This summer my power steering went out. I replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured rack, which failed. I got the replacement rack replaced by the remanufacturer and installed by a different shop. Same problem: SEVERE vibration when turning hard right followed by the PS error code, or just little twitchy motions when driving. I'm having the second shop take a look at it again this monday as I suspect that this is a data processing issue.
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Got a P0001 error , Fuel volume regulator stuck opened....where is the fuel volume regulator is located on a first Gen. Prius?
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How to diagnose misfire with no CEL? 2001 F250 5.4. What could cause it?
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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I've checked the lines from the Purge Valve on the Passenger side of the Intake Manifold, Check OK
I've Checked that Valve OK
I've Replaced the Canister Close Valve
I've got the Gas Cap tight.
I've removed the rubber bushing holding the CCV to the Evap Canister, hoping to isolate the Filter and point the blame on it, no luck there!!
I'm thinking next is to drop the Tank and check over all the Goodies on top.... as much as I hate the thought of that, the two access holes under the seats, just don't allow access to enough of the tank!
any thing there that I could suspect, I see there's a check valve!
There's also the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor, which may be at fault.
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Have 2001 suburban with the 5.3. Mechanic has replaced EGR valve 3Xs. Error code specifies "replace EGR valve". Each time car runs fine for 4-6 weeks (500-1000 miles) and then service engine light comes on. Shortly thereafter the car will not idle correctly (under 1,000 rpm) and will die at stop. I think the EGR valves are getting clogged up with carbon. Car has 130,000 miles on it.
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It seems that i'm most likely going to have to replace the entire plenum .
P1159 here are some details. [URL]..................
I've checked all connecting wires and none appear to be loose. When the issue started to occur and prior to discovering the P1159 code, I also replaced all coils. I replaced the coils because one was arching over to the metal of the engine. I assumed this may be my problem. The issue still persisted obviously. The check engine light never came on so I assumed I wouldn't get a code. I took it over to a friends house with a code reader and that's when I discovered that it was actually giving the P1159 code.
Are there any other model cars that utilize the same engine that I could use the plenum from? Getting this in working condition is going to be the difference in what I can get for it.
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2001 1.5L 5-speed Accent
I did a search on this problem and found several people posted the same P0121 code. Strangely many people wrote that replacing TPS did NOT fix it. The code came back in 30 miles or so. Most of them didn't follow up what finally fixed it and only 2 people did by saying they got the code cleared by fixing/replacing:
1. Leak in the intake manifold, bad plug wires, etc.
2. New Head & ECM.
Is there any known fix for the P0121 on Accent 1.5L other than above?
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So i've had this volvo for about 6 months now.I knew when I purchased it that the two codes being thrown were p0128-Engine coolant temperature, and p0420- Cat efficiency Bank 1.Inspecting mechanic said it needed a new cat to clear the p0420....I went ahead replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to "fix" the p0128, and cleared the codes, I think the jiffy lube state inspector did not notice the that the catalytic converter test was Incomplete when he passed it. Lucky me I guess.
But now I know that I'll probably have to fix before it gets inspected again. Eventually the p0128 came back on, so I went and got a new ECT sensor. Still doesn't clear the p0128. What am i missing? Coolant temperature sits at a 3'oclock position pretty regularly and quickly. Where to start on the p0420 besides understanding its the Pre-cat o2 sensor that is throwing the code, is there anyway that these are related?
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I just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
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I have a 2003 diesel GS Santa Fe, every now and then when driving the ABS light comes on, not very often but it does, if I switch the ignition off and restart it goes out, I had it on a fault finder computer and it showed code c1274, I think its something to do with the G sensor and the way it breaks (ABS) is it an easy fault to fix? What are the costs involved and will it affect the driving of the car, like I say it rarely comes on and I don't notice any change in how it drives.
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