Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - Full Charge Sound While Braking?
Jan 15, 2014
I have Prius 2005 , there is no problem and no registered error code,but the problem occur when i drive my car on long down road and the HVB is full then the charging sound rise ,its like "B" mode on high speed,this sound continue while pressing on the break pedal or not but when i press on the fuel pedal or convert to transmission to "N" mode the sound return to normal ,but if i press on the break or leave my leg the sound return again,this happen if the battery is full but when the battery loss some charge everything return without any problem.
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I have posted separately about my 'supposed' dead HV dead battery. The charge was down to one bar and the the system didn't allow ICE to start for recharge. I finally got a reading of a about 207 volts today and when I fiddled with the start button on and off a few time today, the ICE started. After about 15 sec.
It indicated it was pumping juice into the battery. When it finally got up to about 4 bars it turned off. I had to move the car off the tow dolly (it's home for the past week) and did so in electric mode even though there was a Ready on the display the engine never came on. Before maneuvering it around much I tried to get the ICE to start again to recharge the battery, now down to 2 bars.
By pressing the gas in park and neutral, it would start and rev up but never generated any power to the battery. Fiddled around with the power button some on/off/on, etc. until I got the ready light and sometimes it would start charging but only once did it charge to 6 bars and usually stopped as soon as there were 4 bars.
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I've had my C a week and a half and it is doing great, but I wonder if the system is ok. It has never shown the battery at 100%. My Civic would charge all the way quite often.
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Why the battery never charges to full capacity in the battery level indicator on the LCD screen? It never goes over 6 bars out of the 8 bars so it only gets to be 3/4 full.
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Really starting to get a little frustrated and would love input.....
Owned our PIP for almost a month now. First week, fully charged EV miles were showing around 13.7. 2nd Week, around 12.2, 3rd week, 10.5 and now this week it's gone from 9.6 to 9.1???
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Here's whats going on. Battery goes from full charge to dead and back very fast. Assuming its a battery issue I removed the battery and volt metered every cell
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I live in NJ and in summer I am getting a full charge of 8.1 miles. In winter i used to get almost 11 miles. I thought in summer the charge will be even more?.
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I don't plug my PiP in often due to the cost of electricity here, but what I have noticed that when it has a full charge, around 13Miles, it will quickly drop down to 7-8, even when not using EV. Meaning, I start up car, turn off EV and the motor gets warm. Engine shuts off and I drive normally using the ICE. Over the course of a few miles, I'd say about 10, that EV range slowly drops down to 7-8 and then maintains itself around there. Pretty much the whole time I would have been using the ICE to maintain ~70MPH on the highway, not climbing, just flat.
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Why, when braking in reverse, there seems to be no "charge" indication on the HSI...for example, backing down a long driveway, etc.
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A couple weeks ago I started experiencing some issues with what seems to be the ABS: when braking to a full stop, a "motor" sound appeared accompanied by vibration on the pedal; however, the ABS indicator light did not light on (although it does light on when I start the car). Several weeks later I began having problems with the transmission. It first appeared when putting the vehicle in reverse but now it happens in almost all gears. Finally, the "service engine soon" light turned on.
I took my car to the mechanic and he said the problem is a solenoid and quote a repair (includes valve body replacement and work). He claimed that the "ABS problem" is related to the transmission issue but as I explained above the "ABS problem" predated the transmission issue. My question is, does this link between ABS and transmission make sense? Also, if I go ahead and replace the transmission valve body can I be confident that I won't have any more issues with the transmission for a while? I am concern about spending more on this car giving its current trade value (I already replaced the front suspension struts, brake pads and rotor discs and new tires).
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Just bought my new ride last week and already noticed strange clunk sound when braking. It doesn't happen all the time but seems to happen when I make full stop, like at a stop sign or stop before turning.
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I have a 2005 prius. Got it 7 months ago. I hear brakes squeal when braking. I think I may need new pads. Are they easy to replace?
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I am trying to troubleshoot a sound that I've begun to notice coming from the front of my '08 Prius. I've had this car since new, and it now has a little over 40,000 miles on it. (Please note the sound I'm referring to is not the brake pump electric "whirring" noise that happens evey so often, it's definitely something new/different.) I first noticed it maybe a year ago, but it seems to be happening progressively more often.
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I bought a used 2005 Prius in early February, and have driven about 7,000 miles so far.
Yesterday, I noticed an issue with the braking. When the traditional brakes (non-regenerative) kick in when approaching a full-stop the right-rear tire completely locks up, and skids. The weather has been wet the past two days, but the issue is severe enough that the resulting vibrations feel like they may tear the car apart.
There are no warning lights aside from the skid light, so I assume there'll be no code for a mechanic to easily identify this problem. I'm worried if it's not easy to pin down, this may be a huge expense, and if so, I'll have to hold off awhile, and find some other mode of transportation.
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I purchased (2/17/16) a 2009 Toyota Prius with roughly 73,000 miles. I have recently (the past 4-5 days, except the brake issue that occurred a couple of weeks ago) encountered a number of issues. The issues occur intermittently.
First, while braking, usually when it's raining or damp outside, I might hear a grinding sound like grains between the pad & rotor. Or, the car will be gliding to a stop then at about the 4-6 mph range the brakes will grab and the car comes to a complete and abrupt stop.
Second, while idling in 'P' the engine will engage and the car will shift forward about an 1-2" then roll back (as if bucking). My foot is off the brake pedal. I have the sensation that the car is going to drive itself.
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I like to efficiently use my regenerative braking. Proof of that is that I have 107K miles on my 2008 and haven't had a brake job yet. Referring to my 2012, on the Hybrid System Indicator Screen, there is a CHG bar. The harder you brake, the more the bar fills from right to left. When the bar is full (when braking harder) do the brake shoes offer the balance of braking power needed.
Does the CHG display indicate that much accuracy?
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I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
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I inhereted a prius 2005 and need some education. It has 75000 miles and the battery level stays between the green and blue mostly. I was stuck in bad traffic and as I watched the battery level sucked down rapidly - to the point that I started turning it off and on to save on the battery - is this normal? Is there some switch/button i should press in this situation? I couldn't find anything in the manual.
Also - is there some technique in driving that would charge the battery better? I have just used my first full tank of gas and my mileage was 48 miles/gallon, so I'm pretty happy. I will be driving 30 miles each way to work, mostly at 60/70 mph - but as we know, traffic jams happen.
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I have a vehicle I am storing for the winter, but do want to start it up on occasion just to keep it fresh. my question is this. I put a trickle charger on the battery to keep it charged up, its one of those chargers you can leave on indefinitely, once the green light goes on the charger, it goes into maintanance mode. but I've had the charger on for a week now and it seems the battery won't take a full charge. to put the battery charger into maintance mode. is it dangerous to keep charging a battery that won't fully charge up?
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I recently acquired a 2000 Golf GTI 1.8 20v that came with a few preexisting issues, one of which being that the alternator will not charge the battery. I've checked my voltage while running "starting with a full charge" and it slowly but steadily declines from 12.09 to 11.0 over a 2-3 minute time span. On the dash the battery light is on and never turns off and my radio does not work at all "even with a full charge". I have already replaced my alternator, battery, battery cable, and the two relays in the engine compartment. The relays in the engine compartment were causing a "ghost" amp draw but that has been resolved. I do not have a 109 relay as I have read that this could be the culprit, when I examined the "under-dash" panel I found that my panel does not have one. I have also replaced the 30amp fuses in the engine compartment fuse box and cleaned the grounds.
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My neighbor's kids truck battery drains from full charge to "no start" in 1-2 days. 1999 Ford F-150 w/ 4.6L engine. He has already.....
1) Replaced the Battery.
2) Replaced the GEM module.
3) Replaced the Turn Signal Relay.
He did all this before I looked at it....
I checked the following....
1) Truck off, doors closed, hood open... Amp meter shows 3.6 amp draw. When 1st hooked up, shows 4.2 amps... after a while drops to 3.6.
2) To isolate the draw, we pulled fuses while checking current draw at battery.
a) Under Dash fuse Panel. (Yes, with door closed) We remove fuse #15 "stop lamp switch, speed control, brake shift interlock, ABS, PCM,GEM, RABS test connector". (Really... couldn't be more stuff?)
b)Under the hood is another fuse box (drivers side). We remove Fuse #103. "Junction Block Battery Feed".
3) Found that if we remove the #15 fuse under the dash with the door opens, all interior lights flash on/off at about 1 second intervals... weird.
4) Again, another weird one... with the fuse #15 removed and door closed, the "ABS" indicator and some other indicators and dash lights are staying partially lit... not fully lit.
5) The only "aftermarket" stuff i can see is a dealer installed trailer brake system. Wiring looks professional and disconnecting it does not remove the amperage drain.
I'm hoping that one of you wizards will give me the "slam dunk"... if this happens, it must be that. Can I be so lucky? And, yes. I have my own '06 F-150 that i absolutely love. 6-cyl., manual trans, stripped down without even power door locks... my kinda technology.
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