Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 - Battery Started Draining Early
Jun 16, 2014
We have 2 Priuses, and our older one has started draining battery quickly. It's my husband's primary commute vehicle and we're wondering if it's age related. We have had to do nothing except replace the regular battery once a few years ago. I spoke with a friend who has the same model year as us and she said they recently had to replace one of the hybrid cells (pardon me if this isn't the right terminology, we're not car people).
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I've been having an issue with my 2008 for the last several months and was wondering if this is a common problem, or unique to my vehicle.
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Just bought a 2006 Prius, ironically only has 31,000 km on it.
Recently, mostly today, i noticed the battery has been draining quite fast. I was at 2 bars from full(or 3? whatever is pre "green") and probably 5-10min later i was 2 bars and the gas engine was running. Whatever seemed odd, maybe the traffic was a little slower today.
However i started driving 80kph and it took over 5 minutes for the car , without battery running, to bump from 5 bars up to 6. The electric motor was literally not driving the whole time, it was strictly gas the whole 5 min.
I was also considering taking this car for an inspection at the dealer just to ensure everything is okay before winter hits.
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We have a 2005 Accord. The radio started to malfunction over a year ago. The clock display and everything just stopped working. Disconnecting the negative battery cable would reset it but then it would stop working again a short time after. Sometimes with the car off, you can hear the radio making a sound, like it's trying to eject a CD. Whatever its doing, its draining the battery.
I have to jump the car about once a week. I called the dealer and they said the radios for this year and model are known to be faulty but the fix is expensive and we cannot afford it. I'm pretty handy but not so much with stereo/ electronics. If there is a fix out there, I am willing to try it.
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I was taking my '94 Caprice to work yesterday morning in the rain, when my headlights started to flicker, then the car died. I lost everything electrical, but the starter and the change oil light, which is on constantly. When I turn the key in the ignition, nothing turns on which means no fuel pump, but car still cranks over. I have checked a lot of places for a loss of power but can't find anything. All fuses are good, fusible links are good, unless I am missing checking one somewhere. Battery keeps draining also, but I don't think it is just draining from the check oil light being on. Drains quick too. Never had this problem before.
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I only drive my 2007 Kia Sedona about once a week. (No,I'm not a little old lady, but I do have cats). Anyway, I keep having to replace my battery. Kia tells me the computer is draining the battery and I need to run the car at least 30 minutes a week. Sounds fishy to me. But if that's true, is there a way to keep it charged? I've considered a trickle charger, but I'm disabled and am concerned about being able to disconnect and connect it.
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Firstly let me say that the car is still running perfectly and giving great MPG, but I just wanted to document some early signs of traction battery weakness.
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I am new to the R32 but I have a 2nd owner 60k 2004. The battery keeps draining, put the new one in and it was good for a day. If you jump it, it will work for about 2days and then it is drained down to 3 to 4 volts. No lights or readout on gauges. I am stumped.
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I Have a 2010 Prius With Solar Panel, when i drive the battery will charge up to 6 or 7 bars and quickly it drope down to 3 bars bar. i like to know is this normal
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I have replaced the battery and determined that with the key turned off and doors unlocked the battery drain settles down to 130 milliamp after 60 seconds. If you lock the doors it settles down to the expected 20 milliamps after 60 seconds. Any description of what functions are turned off by locking the doors?
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2005 Prius, 90k, original battery I think, started beeping on shutdown, then wouldn't start today (cold). Got a new battery, but the back hatch wouldn't open, so I tried to jump it following owner's manual instructions. Headlights came on at first (although stalk switch was off), but doors/car wouldn't respond. Disconnected and reconnected jumpers, lights off this time, still no response when trying doors or starting car.
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I bought a 2005 prii with 145k miles about a month ago and have since driven it 1,200 miles. A few days ago, the red triangle light came on when I started the car in the morning. I had to get to work so I unplugged the negative on the 12v and reconnected it. It started and it drove just fine. I get off work and the same thing happens. I did the same thing and drove home just fine. I then ordered a optima yellow top from elearnaid and it was shipped and arrived in 1 day!!!
I installed the battery this morning and called the dealer to notify them of my situation. The light didn't come on so I thought it may just be the 12v. But of course I didn't wanna run out of warranty and then the hv battery completely goes bad. The dealer tells me to bring it in and I did. They "diagnosed" the car and could not "repeat" what had happened to me. They said because I unplugged the 12v, it erased any codes. I thought it's always saved on the ECU? anyways, I told them about installing a new 12v battery and they said, "that must be it." I'm at 147k miles right now and I don't want my 150k / 10 year warranty to expire before something really goes wrong with the hv battery.
Am I just screwed and hope for the best for miles to come? Or is there a Toyota number I can call to tell them of the situation? I'm almost hopeful that it was only because of the 12v but at the same time, I have doubts.
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I loosened coolant pump belt when my gen II prius had only 200 miles on it. I retensioned it approximately 70% less. Where I could turn water pump pully by hand breaking traction with drive belt using all my strength.
The ice coolant pump just started to leak at the weep hole at only 63000 miles and 5 years old. I was sure the reduced tension would make coolant pump last much longer.
After retentioning it (brand new at 200 miles) I could deflect belt about one inch as opposed to not able to deflect belt at all!
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Just sopped up about a quart of water on the pass side floor. the wiring harness channel (along the door on the floor) was full as was the corner where the fuse box is along with the whole jutting up to the seat!
Was thinking I has a windshield leak, tested out fine. I have alot of AC water draining under the truck, thought that ws O.K. too. Then did an experiment after dryin the floor and juting.
peeled it all back and ran the AC for 20 minutes till I had a good puddle on the ground, and sure enough the "joint" lowest and closest to the tranny tunnel was dripping. Thinking the box is full of water now. Where is the actual drain hole for the AC? can't find it under the "heat shield" crap under the truck.
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Changed inverter coolant last weekend. Was a snap. Used bleed screw with vinyl tube back into fill tank to bleed off any excess air. Added just as much as I removed. No issues. Took about 15 minutes total. Engine coolant not going so smoothly. I was only able to get 2.9 qts out. Reservoir is still full. Didn't drain that. Started by putting car in inspection mode. Let engine run until it was 180 degrees (using scan tool to read coolant temp). While engine running, turned on heat to get coolant flowing through heater core.
Turned car off. Opened drain plug behind engine. Got about 2 qts out of that. When that was done, radiator level had dropped too. Next, opened up yellow drain plug on back of radiator on drivers side. Got about 2.9 qts out of that.
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I am having difficulty with my Prius, (just started) that it won't shift out of neutral to drive or reverse. I have read several posts, one says replace the shifter knob, but I did read one i thought that said the 12v battery might be the problem with low voltage. The battery is 5 years old.
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Here is the story, My HID headlights at 45k miles started to flicker and within seconds turn off. My only solution was to turn the lights on/off but the problem would constantly reoccur.
After calling the dealership and speaking to the morons there, I decided to replace the bulbs myself. I successfully replaced both hid headlight bulbs and the bulbs seemed to work perfectly. Sadly, the next day I realized that bulbs would still go out, sometimes the left side, sometimes the right side, sometimes both sides.
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The other night I was going up the mountain and while going it started making a clicking noise..probably from no oil..We had been told from the dealership there was a small leak but nothing to worry about at the moment.We tested it and it wasn't leaking visibly but I guess with it getting cold out the hole got bigger and we didn't notice so all the oil leaked out as we were powering the lil car through the mountains..Needless to say on the cruise down it started shaking i saw some sparks and I think the rod went through my engine block and we broke down. It's completely dead. The car has right around 200,000 miles on it and has always been very well taken care of.I just traded my dad the car about 7 months ago for my 4-runner cause of gas prices..I moved across the country and of course have had NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS since day one.
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My '07 started making three very quite beeps while driving, happens about every 15 minutes. It sounds like it might be coming from under the passenger seat. Mileage on vehicle 168000.
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So it looks like the battery in my Key Fob has died. I've had some trouble replacing it, so for the past week or so I've been forced to use the physical key every single time. It's getting pretty annoying now, so I've decided to figure this out once and for all. From what I gather, the replacement should be battery number 2032.
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My concern: The hybrid battery, or the monitor really, has never, ever, not once, shown an all-bars charge. It is almost always at one bar down, and will drop below that but never goes above. My brother has a Gen I and his battery shows all bars from time to time. Not mine.
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