Prius (2004-09) :: 2008 - Right Faulty Head Light Triggers Check Engine Light?
Jan 11, 2015
I was wondering if this seems reasonable. I just bought a used 2008 Prius top trim package with 107,00 miles on it this last month. The first day I owned it a check engine light was triggered. The guy I bought it from hooked it up to his computer and cleared it to then try to trigger it again. This happened when I first turned on the car. I started backing and then it turned on. I didn't know what caused it as we couldn't trigger the response again. It's been a few weeks now and 1 trip to the shop for some repairs. There have been no problems what-so-ever since then and my Prius just started getting close to the 50 MPH as advertised after a tune up.
Today when I'm driving, as the seller did mention before could happen, the right headlight turned off. As he had told me before, just turning the lights off and turning them back on will get it working again. I did this and as soon as I did the check engine light came on. I go back to the night I originally had it happen and I was probably in the process of turning on my lights.
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I have a 2004 Corolla with a Check Engine light on. The Toyota dealer diagnosed this as: "Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 - slow to respond".
The diagnostic code is PO133. Elsewhere, I find that this code indicates:
The oxygen sensor is faulty.
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed.
There is an exhaust leak
Haven't noticed exhaust leakage, and I doubt the wiring is faulty.
1) Where is sensor 1?
2) Do I really need a new sensor, or can I clean the old one?
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I have a 2008 Prius that I purchased used last year. It has just shy of 139,000 miles on it. Recently the check engine light came on, and I dropped by AutoZone to have them pull the codes. They are as follows:
C1241
P1121
P3193
I haven't been able to find a full explanation of the codes online, so I need to know what they mean, how much it would cost to fix, and how urgent the repair is. I will be going on a 5 1/2 hour road trip next week, so I want to make sure I'm not going to break my car (or myself!) by doing so with the engine light on.
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2008 Prius. I just passed by 5K oil change by a 50 miles or so, so my maintenance light was on, but when I was driving it on the expressway today suddenly the red triangle light and check engine light came on, I immediately pulled over onto the shoulder and had it towed. These are the error codes that were showing up:
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I've been using my prius 2008 very smoothly till today. It was 100F+ in Austin and very hot. The car, suddenly lit up all the warning lights: Engine, Red Exclamation, Hybrid, and brake lights. The brakes kept beeping on both sides. I also heard an engine noise that is quite uncommon for prius. I stopped the car in a parking lot.
I came back in an hour and tried to start the car. I only saw 2 lights now: Red Exclamation, and Engine check. It might some "click" noise when I started, and after that it was fine. I drove for a while and everything was fine but the 2 warning lights were still on. I tried starting and stopping few times. I did experience the clicks (1-2) and the engine noise. The engine noise lasted 15-30 seconds and then it was back to normal.
I followed the youtube video to look up the diagnostics (Display pressed + lights on/off 3 times) to check the 12V battery. It read 13.8 V. I recently had an oil change at Toyota dealership less than 500 miles back. So I am baffled at this point. I have about ~60K miles and it's a 2008 model. So if it's a hybrid battery issue, I am covered.
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This morning I started my 2008 Prius (approx. 31k miles) and found the big red triangle with an exclamation mark and check engine light turned on.
I drove my car <1 mile to a smog check station where they ran a diagnostic on it and came back with the P0A9C code.
A quick internet search turns up that this is "HYBRID BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR "A" RANGE/PERFORMANCE."
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The mechanic I use told me how he repaired a fault with the Honda Civic hybrid battery that kept the check engine light on and indicated a code for a faulty battery. It appears that if the different cells in the battery have a voltage variance between them that is outside of the parameters set, the light will come on and stay on. The customer was told by Honda service that he needed a new battery, but the car was out of the warraqnty period.
The mechanic theorized that he could remedy this if he drained the battery down and recharged it. After two cycles, the check engine light went off. I wonder if this would work for other hybrid owners?
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The check engine light on our 2005 Honda CRV (146,000 miles) came on and stayed on. After a week of driving with the light on we brought the car to the dealer to have it checked. The dealer diagosed a faulty catalytic converter given a P0402 diagnostic code and didn't think the P1078 code for the intake manifold a problem. The dealer also stated that the oxygen sensors were fine. We declined the dealers offer to replace the catalytic converter for $2,170 and the check engine light was reset. After two weeks of daily drifting and 1000 plus miles the engine light is still off. Did we actually have a problem? Why hasn't the light come on again?
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I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
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This morning I tried to drive my 2008 Prius and the "check engine" light quickly blinked and the dashboard didn't light up. The monitor did turn on and I could hear the engine running. The monitor showed that the hybrid battery was almost full. While trying to go in reverse, the camera did not work. We just had an oil change done. The 12V battery was replaced almost 2 years ago. The car has almost 150K on it. I also tried tightening the gas cap. It's obviously winter and it snowed last night (in case that might be a factor).
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I have a 2007 Prius which today, for the first time ever, refused to start. I pressed the Start button and all that happened is the "check engine" and "airbag" lights came on (dimly), and the green LED on the "P" (park) button began blinking. I pressed the "Start" button again but nothing I can do will change this. The car is sitting in my garage now, in this condition. I turned the dome light on briefly and it was very dim, so I suspect the 12v battery is dead. Only problem is, to access it requires opening the back hatchback door, which won't open without 12v power. Meanwhile the tiny bit of power that's left is being drained by the system in it's half-on condition (above). If I could get to the battery I could connect an external charger to charge it up enough to start it but I can't. What should do?
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Engine runs perfectly but "check engine" light" stays on due to faulty Emission Evap control pressure sensor (P/N; 89460-0w020). Problem is Toyota no longer makes this part and there is no after market for it. It appears I may have to "junk" a perfectly good truck.
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My wife and I own a 2006 Toyota Prius that we bought used 2 years ago. a couple of days ago, the master warning light (red triangle exclamation point) and check engine light came on. I took it into the dealer and of course, our hybrid battery was dead - battery and a new ECU required.
Our car is at 99,000 and 32 days out of warranty. Went down the road to atlanta hybrid repair. they were incredibly nice, and said that my computer was fine, but the battery would need to be replaced.
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I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. It has been treating me LIKE GOLD !!! up to this point. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light. I let it go for about a week hoping that it would just go away.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side. So I took their advice and I had them perform the coolant flushes.
After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again. SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues! The check engine light came back on the next day.
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Just had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
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I have a 2006 f 150 5.4 ... Changed out all spark plugs, Never had a CEL since new. I disconnected the Battery, Removed the PCM (clearance problem)replaced the plugs, (of course broke 1) replaced PCM, hooked up battery. Truck runs smooth as can be. CEL is now on steady. Could this have happened because of PCM removal? Heard about flashing PCM? Or should i bring it to Auto zone for code reading?
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I've got a check engine light on but the truck runs fine. I checked the fluid levels everything seemed normal. Any special trick that I could try to reset this check engine light myself? It's got the 4.6 L, Stock no mods, been keeping the regular service intervals at the dealership.
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I have engine light on and the code is PO446. just changed fuel filter on my 2006 5.4L f150. What the code means ?
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I have a 2005 f-150 with the 5.4 engine. Bought it new and now it has 107,000 miles on it. Recently,it would have a shudder at 65 or 75 mph then the passing gear would kick on and it worked perfectly. The warning check engine light came on,then,when it acted up it would flash intermittently. Took it in to the dealership and put it on the diagnosis machine. Said cylinders 2,3, and seven were not steady etc?? So,after he took it out and drove it he said those particular cylinder walls were scored. I put in a K-N air filter at about 50,000 miles,and he said that they do not seal properly and dust got by the filter into the intake and got into the engine and did this damage. One think he found was a bad coil on one cylinder and replaced it. And just as he said,when I got on the road home I romped on it and it cut out and the intermittent signal showed again! He said that that would happen and it did.
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So the check engine light came up on my truck and I scanned it to find P0021 which is Intake camshaft over advance or VCT solenoid stuck open. I really doubt my truck skipped timing and all the research I've found had it linked with other codes requiring cam phasers. The truck is a 2008 F150XL with the 5.4 Triton with 90k on it
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I have a problem nobody can figure out. My check engine light is on. Took it to Advance to have it scanned; came backwith Code 1226, Brake warning light ground short ( not concerned that at this time); Code P1285, cylinder head over temperature; and P1299, engine overheating (this repeated 4 times).
Now for the symptoms: Truck start and runs good, except with engine light on, runs about 4 miles, then the temperature gauge goes all way up, oil light come on (But oil pressure gauge is OK), Have loss power, and heater has no heat. I shut key off, restart, runs perfect, gauges OK, heater OK.
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