After replacing one of the HV batteries defective out of the 28 in my Gen 2, I reinstalled a working battery and the car won't start. With the car turned on, I went ahead and measured current on the HV battery side and get 220, and on the car side terminals there is no power. The service switch is working correctly and engaged. For some reason the voltage is not being relayed to the car side.
View 9 RepliesI'm not near my stuff--is the battery cable terminal bolt 8mm?
View 14 RepliesI was changing out the hydroboost and left the passenger battery connected, the positive terminal on the driver side sparked and now the trucks having a hard time starting? What should I check? Fuse or somthing else
View 12 RepliesGot new batteries installed yesterday and found that the passenger side battery has a nearly broken positive terminal. Had to handle it very gently.
Don't want to replace the entire battery cable just to get the terminal. Using bolt-on replacement terminals? What did you go with and where can it be found?
I recently fixed a hollow sounding door rattle that was coming from the outer door skin on my driver's side door. It turned out to be a stiffening rib that was not bonded to the door skin anymore, possibly because of an impact or just age of the vehicle.
After removing the door panel and peeling back the plastic dust guard, I used some adhesive caulk and tapered rubber wedges to brace the stiffener and reattach it to the door skin.
The picture shows the approximate location of the stiffener in between the outer skin and the inner panel support.
So a few months ago my right front HID headlight went out and was replaced by Toyota (under the 50K HID Headlamp warranty). The next day, it was out again. I went back to the dealership and they looked a little deeper and told me it was a burnt terminal. What the report said was: "Found Burnt Terminal #1 connector H5 and head lamp cover, harness. Need to remove right head lamp assembly to:
*Replace Rear Headlight Cover
* Wire harness between cover and ecu
* Replace connector H5
* Repair Terminal #1 at connector H5
The headlamp was fine for a while and then the problem came back recently. The right headlight would be out when I started the car... and then it would usually flick back on after driving for a few minutes.
I have an issue with Prius 2005 driver side power window constantly making clicking sound even after turning off the Prius. All other power windows works, just the driver side is having this issue. This started happening after I changed the 12V battery for my Prius.
The window still rolls down and up but it's very slow and making even louder clicking sound while rolling down and up. Also an other thing that I noticed is that windows keep going down slowly by itself after it's been closed. Any clue as to what went wrong with my driver side power window ?
Car details : 2005 Camry V6
I was replacing the dead battery in my car. While disconnecting positive terminal cables, top cable going to relay/ fuse box side was broken around the lug.Looks like power cable for fusebox or something. I have 2 cables connecting to the positive terminal and only one is broken.
1.If this particular cable can be bought independently , if yes what is the part number . Can I buy this at any local store ? .
Confusion is, all I see is one cable listed on part schematic which seems to be the second cable.
2. Couldn't find any DIYs with pictures to replace this cable, as currently I can only see half of the cable . Don't know where other end goes.
Now my car is sitting duck with me taking a cab to go to work.
While reinstalling my battery after working on my 94 sentra my negative battery cable melted my negative terminal.
I installed the positive first then went to do the negative and huge spark/smoke and I see my terminal melted on the one side.
What might be causing this?
My new to my 2013 f150 needs the terminal replaced due to corrosion. Need the p/n for just the terminal not the whole cable.
View 2 RepliesWhen I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
Is there a way to repair an individual switch on the drivers master window switches, or do I I have to replace entire 4 switch and window lock set?
View 8 RepliesLooking for info about the tire pressure sensors.
My 2nd gen prius was recently in an accident; I got hit directly on the passenger side rear right tire. Car has been in the shop for over a month, they replaced the rim (moved the old pressure sensor over with the tire), doorshell, bumper, and rear axle beam.
I picked up my car yesterday, and on my way home the TPS warning light comes on. I go back to the repair shop, and they said one of the sensors were asleep and they just had to re-activate it and clear the error code.
I have replace the auxiliary battery. Only getting power when connected to a booster battery.
View 12 RepliesI changed my oil, oil filter, air filter at 90k for a trip to Miami this past weekend. Uneventful on the way up. On the way back, stopped and did some shopping before hitting alligator alley to come back home. As I got on the alley after paying the new $3 toll my 05 prius with 90k miles on it would not go over 65 with my foot on the floor and the battery on the mfd was in the pink. So I drove to the nearest exit, checked the fluids etc, all good. Got back on same thing so I put on hazards and stayed on until i could get off on a much slower road. I was going about 55-60 and it would go no faster.
As I got to a place I pulled over DC'ed the negative battery cable and let it sit for a half hour. I then attempted to get going and it seemed to be running fine until I attempted to pass a car and the car seemed to lock up and lose all power, check engine light came on and the red triangle light came on. I pulled over and let it sit again. I then got it to a gas station with the check engine light on. I put a few gallons gas on and tried to limp it home. It made it home and the battery seemed to recharge back to all the blue it can get to, but has yet to hit the green.
I have an 05 Prius which had no significant problems until the HV battery died this past Feb. Two days later, I'm on the highway and lose power, manage to get the car to an off ramp. Have it towed to a dealer where the power failure pulled up code DTC P3190 and I was told that the car was simply car out of gas. The car was at 3 pips without any indicator going off but after consulting this forum I thought "Okay, maybe this is just the new normal." Filled my car with 5 gallons worth of gas which topped it off (?) and went on my way.
I'll add here for lack of a better place that with the new battery the car has not ever seemed to accelerate cleanly - always feels like there's some resistance on the accelerator when trying to go above 50 on the highway.
Cut to yesterday - I lost power on the highway 3 miles from home with the car at 7 pips (!). I had only put 130 miles on the car since last filling the tank so I can *not* imagine this is a fuel issue. And, worse than ever before, this time when the engine failed I had only about 1000 feet to get over to the shoulder. I did manage to get over safely (for those in SoCal, this was on the 5 North and I narrowly missed blocking the ramps to the 134). To make matters even worse it rush hour in 95+ heat, and I was pinned in my car for 20 minutes (traffic on one side, retaining wall on the other) until the tow truck arrived. I cannot have this happen again.
I had the car towed to the dealer this morning. When the car was picked up the car was at 7 pips in my driveway. The dealer states when the car was dropped of there it was at 1 pip, and sent me a picture of the odometer to verify. Wth?!
How is this possible? How could the gauge have dropped so rapidly? Is there a legitimate way the fuel indicator could have dropped so much or is the dealer scamming me? And what could be be wrong? The AAA driver this morning said they should have replaced the accessory battery when they replaced the hybrid battery, and perhaps that was the source of the problem?
My dad's 2004 Prius start despite the auxiliary battery being fully charged. No lights come up on the dash, except for the door ajar light and the blinkers when the car is locked with the key fob. Also, we cannot scan any codes because the car doesn't power on at all.
View 6 RepliesIf this has been posted before feel free to remove. I searched everywhere and didn't see exactly what I experienced with our Prius when the 12v battery was in it's final stages of death so I wanted to share.
Below issues all occurred within a one week time period 3-7-16 to 3-14-16. 2005 Prius with 145k miles, replaced traction battery on 7-30-15 / 127k miles.
First occurrence - happened a few seconds after starting and driving the vehicle. The ABS light came on and the power steering faded out and then came back, just briefly, and the car did not die. Turned the car off and back on again and all was well.
I performed the 12v battery test by entering maintenance mode. (hold the display button and turn the lights on/off three times, vehicle signal check, battery check) the battery was reading 11.9volts with the car off, I drove the car and it was charging at around 14.7volts and then was reading 12.2 with the car off after driving it. Which at the time seemed a little weak but nothing that was a red flag. I've read that you're supposed to replace the 12 volt battery every 4 years but I swear the one I removed looked stock.
Second time - again happened just a few seconds after starting the car and driving. ABS light came on, red triangle of death light, brake light, power steering was gone, and the power steering light came on, the car did not die. Restart fixed the issues again.
Third time - Happened about 30 minutes in to the trip while the wife was driving on the interstate around 75mph, wipers were on due to rain but visibly lost power, radio came on and off, all the lights on the dash (warning lights included) flickered on and off, power steering was gone, car died completely and would not restart. Tow driver had to boost the battery long enough to put the car in neutral so we could load it on to the tow truck. When we got the car home the battery was completely dead again.
I ordered an Optima Battery 8171-767 (DS46B24R) YellowTop Prius Battery from Amazon which appears to be a direct replacement, and simple to install. I drove the car for a few miles, returned to the house, performed battery test again via maintenance mode and the battery was charging at 14.0 and reading 12.5 when off. I can't be certain but I think the battery check feature may be displaying false information if the battery has dead cells and the car is trying to charge the battery? I took the old battery to Advanced Auto Parts and had them run a diagnostic check and the tester stated that the battery had dead cells and needed to be replaced. I gave them the old battery even though I didn't buy the new one from them and got a 10.00 store credit, unexpected and nice.
It's been like that for a a while now. Every morning the hybrid battery would run down to last bar. When I start the car it would be 3/4 full and it would keep draining even though I'm on flat road.
The overall mileage has not changed much but its annoying with the battery goes to last bar and there's no electric power to accelerate.
I just had a lower balljoint repaired on my 2006 hyundai Sonata. After 1 day, the battery dies. Had it jump started last night, and it's dead again this AM.
Could this at all be related to the ball joint repair? They don't seem related but it also seems like an odd coincidence since there were no other recent issues with my car. Thoughts?
My 2007 Prius has 120,000 miles. I live in a mountainous area. I need to climb 3 miles at 6% grade to get out of my neighborhood. Lately I've been noticing the traction battery loses charge fairly quickly and I've been thinking about replacing the battery. Much of my driving is in steep hills and I run a full charge cycle many times a day, so I guess I should expect some loss of life.
View 7 Replies