Prius (2004-09) :: CEL Came On And Throwing Code P1116
Jan 6, 2015
Wife has a 2013 V and I bought a 2007 with 200000k on the clock. Got a good deal on the car and knew I would have some issues so here is what I am battling. CEL came on and throwing code P1116. We all know the generic code saying engine coolant temp sensor, cooling sensor clogged, etc. this is the only code on the reader. I checked the coolant level and everything is within standards. No leaks appear from the lines. I believe the carfax shows a fender bender so maybe the CHS tank sensor didn't get replaced? So, I guess what I am asking is:
Should I buy a MINi VCI to locate the problem (I plan on getting one eventually just wanted to save money isolating the problem now)? ECU problem? I have read previous post with bad ECUs throwing P1116 but these post were 2+ years. Sometimes it sounds like there might be gurgling from the dash...I say sometimes lightly because it is very faint but have also read older post stating air could throw the p1116 code so maybe a coolant flush?
Also, big question: is the engine coolant temp sensor identical to the CHS tank sensor? The local parts store couldn't find a CHS tank sensor part number just the engine so didn't know if they were the same.
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My check engine light came on with a p1116 on my 2008 with 138k. I replaced the sensor, but the p1116 came back. How to fix. I'm going to replace the coolant today, I read somewhere there might be a clog.
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I got red triangle and headlight icon on the screen. I hooked OBD and It gave me error code P1116, I checked all my front, back lights are working fine.
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My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
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The P1116 and P1121 codes have shown up on my 2009 Gen II Prius about a month ago. The CEL is intermittent - it will disappear on its own within a few drive cycles to a week, only to come back again. I'm not sure what to do next - should I go ahead and replace the three-way coolant valve or water pump or both?
Of note I also hear a "push-pull" noise from the engine compartment. Sometimes it persists through an entire drive (my trips are usually short, under 30 minutes) or sometimes it will only happen upon a cold start then stop after a few minutes of driving. What the noise indicates? It sure sounds like some sort of valve or piston opening and closing. It's faint so I've "enhanced" it to make it louder.
Apparently I can't upload .wav's here, so I placed it on dropbox. And since I only have one post, I can't directly link to it. So I will post three replies in order to paste in the link.
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My son drives our old 2005 Prius with over 300000 miles on it. He had a front end accident a few years ago, and, after body repair and a straightened frame, the car has been running pretty well, although the mpgs have been in the low 30s. This may be the result of his "lead foot." He recently saw the check engine light and the car shows the codes P2601 and P1116.
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Just last week I bought a 2007 prius from a local dealership in Houston. The check engine light recently turned on and had it checked out by an auto parts store. The codes they read were the p1116 and p1121 (issues with the coolant valve). I know it would cost much to replace the valve, and I am not wanting to pay that much, especially since i just bought the car. I'd also be willing to fix it myself if i had some guide or step by step instructions...
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So I drive a 2008 and a couple months ago I started getting the Check Engine Light. Codes P1121 & P1116. Found out it was most likely related to a faulty Coolant Control Valve or Electric Water Pump. Since the pump was just recently changed I went ahead and got the valve changed.
The light is still coming and going but now when I go on the expressway that red triangle with the exclamation pops on with a little beep. Only pops on for a couple seconds and keeps coming back until I drive a bit slower.
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I've recently had some problems with my 2000 Jetta VR6, so in the past couple months I've replaced the alternator and the coolant flange/thermostat housing. I bring this up because right after i finished fixing the coolant leak, i got a check engine light. I had screwed up, though, and switched 2 of the spark plugs when i was putting things back together and I assumed that was what caused the CEL to turn on. I put the spark plugs back in the right place after a minute or 2 of confusion... but the light has stayed on for about the past month. Got it to turn off by unplugging the battery for a bit, but it came back on after a couple minutes at idle. Took it to Autozone... and the P1116 code that pops up says "O2 sensor heater circuit open bank1 sensor 1." I feel like it was probably something that I have done to cause this problem, not actually just a part I need to replace based on the timing of the CEL.
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My 2007 is throwing a CEL code for the radio head unit. The code indicates the CD player is having problems ejecting the CD (there is no CD in the player)
The issue is not affecting the car or engine or MPG. The issue is that I cannot renew my registration without an inspection. I will not pass the inspection with a CEL light on
I have reset the code by disconnecting the battery.
Is there any way to kill the radio or the code.
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I've got our beloved 2005 Prius giving us the dreaded CEL with these two codes: p1116 and p1121.
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We are having an intermittent issue with car starting up and immediately throwing a CEL, red triangle and going into limp mode. Shutting off the car and restarting it sometimes resolves the issue. I'd love to be able to pull the logs from the car to see what is causing this issue.
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My CEL came on and is throwing code P0430. Is it just an o2 sensor? if so which one primary or secondary?
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I have an 04 GLI and keeps throwing a code for the 02 sensor, and after putting the car on the lift, and disconnecting the 02 sensor harness, a fine oil leaks out at the end of the connector and smells and looks like power steering fluid.
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I am stage 1 tuned and just have simple bolt ons. About a year and a half ago i had my CEL come on and it was P2400. I was still under warranty and took it into the dealer. They ran through the whole eval system along with replace my evap pump and the CEL was still on. Well then they replaced the ECU and all was fixed. that following fall i took it to APR to get ref lashed and all was well. Until 2 weeks ago. The CEL is back on throwing the same code. I believe its the ECU again and I'm waiting to get into APR to have them fix whatever it is. They believe its evap but I'm not convinced.
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I drive a 1995 3.1L V6 Pontiac Grand Am SE.
My mechanic told me that my EGR valve was throwing a code, so I took it off and cleaned it out and tried to fish out some of the carbon in the air intake tube. I used carb cleaner on the valve and the tube and I sprayed a little bit of air duster into the tube, but it made a funny noise so I stopped after about 1 second of spraying.
When I put it back on, I forgot to snap the wiring harness back onto the top EGR solenoid. I reconnected the negative battery cable and started my car. The gauges red fine. I revved my engine a few times and everything seemed okay. Then I turned off my engine and then turned it back on to listen for any rough idling (that's why I decided to clean the EGR in the first place). Then I turned it off.
When I got out of the car, I realized I forgot to reattach the wiring harness to the EGR. I disconnected the negative battery cable and it sparked a tiny bit. I reconnected the wiring harness to the EGR. Afterwards, I noticed that it had leaked some fluid (I'm guess oil?) into my engine. There was a very small amount of light smoke or steam (not sure which), but it stopped a minute or two later. I've attached a picture for reference.
Is it safe to reconnect my negative battery cable and try restarting my car????
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I own a 2003 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L 4 Cylinder and my CEL recently came on throwing the PO420 code (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). So I replaced both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Well just one day after replacing the sensors the CEL came back on with the same code. I was wondering weather or not I should replace the whole catalytic converter or if there was anything else I should try. The car runs fine, exactly how it did when I bought it.
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I have a 03 GLI 24v VR6 thats throwing a P0113 code, which is for the intake air temperature sensor. The sensor is part of the MAF sensor, ive tried 2 brand new BOSCH MAF sensors yet the same check engine continues to reoccur. Is there anything else that oculd be triggering it to come on? Is there anyway to bypass/disable it through vagcom?
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Last weekend I installed a usp test pipe with a hfc welded in and now I am throwing the code p0160......
What this is and maybe some ways that I can fix it?? I have a hard time believing an o2 sensor is shot since the car only has ~27k miles....
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So my 02 Camry V6 has the check engine light on. I had them scan at AutoZone. the codes that came up were P1130 and P1135. After reading some threads here, seems like it's the A/F sensor?
Just to confirm, there are two A/F sensors in the V6 model? I can see the front one easily but not the rear one. Need to identify which sensor needs replacement?
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A couple months ago I was hearing a hissing noise under the hood throwing the same code replaced the Valve cover, after there was no issues. Yesterday saw I had CEL and I was throwing P0174 code and there is a similar vacuum leak sound coming from under the hood but the Breather in the valve cover is not sucking in air. The Oil cap comes off but the engine starts to bog, what it could be now?
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