Check engine light was on solid - so I hooked up a code reader to the OBD2. Went ahead and cleared code -- hasn't come back yet, but wanted to see what it might be indicating if it comes back on.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
View 6 RepliesOk...so I drove my car last night about 120 miles and all was well. Got up this morning to go run some errands and the car started acting weird, sputtering. The check engine light was blinking on and off, then it came on solid and stayed on. I haven't checked the code yet.
2004 Jetta GLI1.8 T Manual Transmission
Finally got my first check engine light at 108k miles. Pulled my codes with an OBD reader from Oreilley auto parts.
P1117 is Coolant temperature sensor circuit, low for coolant heat storage system.
Coolant heat storage tank outlet temperature sensor.
Short in temperature sensor circuit
ECM
I just wanted to make sure I had the right piece before I buy it. I did check the levels of my coolant and they are perfect, so I'm sure the sensor must be bad. I believe it'll just be a water temp sensor. I just want to make sure it's this, and not some random sensor I'm missing.
we have a Prius from 2004.
We have had problems with the starter battery. This is because the car is so rarely driven. So to fix this I have charged the battery several times. But have not disconnected the battery cables before. I don't know if thats the reason why we have problems though. But you can suspect that.
One morning when we should drive the car we saw that the "check engine light" came up on the dashboard. And other warnings also.
I bought an OBD scanner and hooked it up. P3030..
So I took the hybrid battery out of the car and cleaned all poles and connections. I measured each battery cell to approx 7,6 V.
I also bought a new starter battery. Now, I have put all together again. But P3030 is still the case.
Is it possible to measure the voltages from the busbar module by measure on the contact to the ECU? I have tried that but don't get stable results. The voltages goes up and down all time..
My last hope is that a wire between battery busbar and ECU is broken. But I couldn't recognize that when I had the battery out of the car.
My check engine light came on with a p1116 on my 2008 with 138k. I replaced the sensor, but the p1116 came back. How to fix. I'm going to replace the coolant today, I read somewhere there might be a clog.
View 1 RepliesI had a check engine light and code 0420, which after researching I decided to replace the cat with an aftermarket - Magnaflow 99205HM. Spent some time driving around today and the light is back on!
View 1 RepliesI was driving when the engine light came on. I always carry my OBD II reader in case this happens. Upon reading the code it gave a reading of PA080. Since I have a spare battery at home and have fixed 3 others for friends and family I was not to worried.
I arrived home and took out the battery to measure the voltages. To my surprise all voltages were good. I figure maybe it was corrosion so i tool the module bus harnesses and cleaned both the copper pieces and screws. After reinstalling all i took it out for a drive and after 20 minutes the check engine light came on. Bummer!
Went back home and disconnected the original HV battery and installed the spare HV battery and took the vehicle for a ride. All seemed good when the engine light came on again after 20 min. Removed that battery and all voltages were also good.
Troubleshooting began first by checking the 12V battery with an ohmmeter and it read 12.4 volts. Thinking this was good I jumped at checking the HV
battery including switching the CPU to no avail. In the process I left the HV battery disconnected which gave me codes indicating loss of communication with CPU scaring me even more.
Finally decided to take a break and look around on here and google when I found a better way to test for a week 12V battery. This test required me to let the car sit, turn lights on and press power button twice. If I got a red triangle and message indicating that the transmission sensor was in an abnormal state a weak 12v battery was to blame. So i went put to the car and tried it to my surprise I got the red triangle with transmission message.
So I went to OReilly and got a 12V battery for $170. Came home installed it and took Prius out for a drive. After 30 minutes no Check Engine Light. So far all good. I drove it to work and back home without an issue. This car has 141k miles and 12V battery was approx 5 years old.
I got an 2009 toyota prius I was driving home one day and car shut off and check engine light came on after 10 mins of the car being off I try to turn it on, it started with the check engine light still on main battery light came off, I ran to AutoZone and got my car scan for codes and P0121 was my code tps my car has 120k miles what should I do clean the throttle body? Replace the sensor? How would I test the sensor if it's bad?
View 4 RepliesI took a one owner 2009 with 100,00 miles for a pre-inspection today. All came back in fairly good shape however the mechanic ( an independent shop ) found this error code P1455. I took the car back to the dealer & said I was interested in the car if they looked into whether the gas tank would need to be replaced. The parts manager gave my husband and I a long speech about how they checked the car before it was traded in and never found this code. He explained that the code has to appear twice for the " check engine light " to come on. He told us he would take the car for a test drive himself & put it thru another diagnostic test to see if he could get another error reading. He will be getting back to us tomorrow. The dealer also said we could discuss in writing a timeline for them to repair it if the check engine light come on & ultimately a repair is needed.
View 3 RepliesI'm guessing that I need to repair or replace the HV battery. But I'm not sure.
Today I drove for about 20 minutes with no issue. 10 minutes later, I got back in the car to drive again. This time, after about 20 seconds into the drive, a string of dash lights came on; Red triangle, VSC, Check engine.
The VSC light went away. But the red triangle and check engine light are still on. So, I had the trouble codes pulled by a mechanic, and the code P0A80 was returned along with a statement reading 'replace hybrid battery'.
Should I take this at face value? Or look for something else first?
2007 Prius - 150,000 miles
I have a 2005 with 206,000 miles and the check engine light came on. The code reads "pedal position" but local mechanics are not knowledgeable to deal with electronics. The check engine light has been sporadic off and on so is this serious?
View 5 RepliesIt came on 2 months ago, took it to dealer, code said "erratic idle", it idled fine, smooth as it always has been, dealer turned of lite, said let him know if it comes on again.
View 2 RepliesMy check engine and red triangle light came on. I checked the code and it's a battery issue. The code is P0A7F. I called the dealer and they want me to bring the car in for a check. I have about 117,000 miles on the car. They have a service bulletin open. I would like to avoid paying large dollars for a new battery.
View 7 RepliesPurchased a used 2005 Prius with 30,000 on the clock. Have put 5,000 miles on the car with no problems. Recently the check engine light came on and my Scan Gauge indicated a trouble code of "P0000". Cleared the code and four days and 500 miles later the check engine light returned with the same code. Car runs great even with the light on. Have check the fuel cap which was and is tight.
View 2 RepliesI bought my 2008 Prius 9-14 with 29,000 miles on it. (rebuilt title-big mistake I now know). I found out after I bought it that it had sat for 5 years before it was rebuilt) I figured it was a miracle the hybrid battery even worked.
I had no problems until 2-4-15 when check engine light was flashing and the car was shaking. The local mechanic said was the “clutch” (torque converter), took the engine and transmission out of the car to fix it ($2200). But he realized the mass air flow sensor (MAP) was not working even after he put a new one in so had me take the car to the Toyota dealer. The dealer found a cut in the engine harness and advised me to replace the harness which he said would cost $2800. The local mechanic saw the cut via my cell phone photo and offered to fix it for free which he did.
The next day check engine light comes on after driven 25 miles with code PO 301. (means misfires in cylinder one). The local mechanic switches cylinder 1 with 4, same code the next day, local mechanic switches the coils to the cylinders, still the next day the same code. He switched the fuel injectors. Same problem of cylinder 1 misfire. He cleaned the oil out of the intake manifold, did fuel injection cleaning, and cleaned gunk out of the fuel line. Car would drive good about 20 miles then same check engine light, same code, sometimes code PO300 (random multiple misfires).
I recently had someone run a scan on my 2008 prius, which just had a check engine light pop up on it.
It came back with the following code: P1118 MANF. CONTROL FUEL AIR METERING
So today my CEL came on. I immediately looked at my mileage and I was EXACTLY at 500m past my oil change the other day. I checked the dip stick and lo and behold, it was about 3/4" past the full marker. I took it back to the oil change place and had them drain it down to a good level.
I had driven from NH to NY this week. I filled up my gas tank on my way home from NY. Gas cap was on nice and tight for sure.
The code is still on (not sure how many miles or drive cycles is required) for something to clear. I figured it was perhaps due to too much oil added. I decided a few hours later to take it to AutoZone and grab the diagnostic code. It's a P0420 code (Cat System efficiency below threshold: Air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S, AF Sensor Error, Fuel System Fault, Faulty Catalytic Converter).
My check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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