I have a 2007 Prius, my coolant is always overflowing to my reservoir. It doesn't have any overheating problem, if I will fill up the radiator I could see bubbles coming out, How can I resolve this problem?
View 8 RepliesI own a Passat 2004 V6 Wagon ATQ and I noted that the coolant reservoir was low on coolant almost empty but i did not notice any overheating issue. I took the car to the shop and the Cooling system was pressure tested no leaks no problem then after a week I found that after a 20 minutes drive I pull into a parking lot and coolant was dripping from the reservoir my a/c fan works and the fan clutch spins slow and I'm able to stop it with my hand. I just replaced the clutch fan last but the problem still present.
View 1 Replies.My Nissan Murano, 2003 is acting up after a ton of diagnostics and repair . We replaced thermostat, flushed heat core, replaced coolant pipe which had rusted and leaked out fluid, and ran air bubbles out forever, it seemed. The heater does not work now on lower rpm's and the car was gurgling the other day when i stopped at mailbox. I have been driving it for a few weeks since we had it repaired.When i pulled in into garage, it was overflowing at reservoir for coolant. We have not driven it and our mechanic is perplexed. He ruled out head gasket problems with chemical test and another diagnostic test. . . .he is perplexed. He added coolant and what else. . .. .that is all i can think of . should we get it towed to dealer which is 100 miles away? we've already spent 1500 or so with this and it seems we could be back at square one. Our mechanic is very honest, and he does think it could be in the engine, like a warped plastic piece. . . i don't know what he said exactly, but he's just guessing.We have 128k on this engine.
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1999 Honda CRV. Took it in for an oil change last month, then next day took a long road trip. After the first half of the trip, I opened the hood and saw colored fluid sprayed all over the front of the engine. It seemed to be coming from the top of the radiator. I assumed the common failure mode of these radiators, ie that the joint between the plastic top piece and the aluminum radiator body was beginning to fail. The overflow tank was empty, but the radiator was still full.
But before I drove the return trip home, I replaced the radiator cap with a new one just in case. When I got home, I checked the engine compartment again. No more coolant spray. So I thought the new radiator cap had solved the problem.
So I added fluid to the overflow reservoir, up to the "minimum" line. A few days later after some local driving, checked again. Again, coolant sprayed around, seemed to be coming from around the cap, overflow reservoir empty, but radiator still full.
Now I just leave the reservoir empty, instead of filled to the "minimum" line. The radiator is not leaking, because I've checked the level several times since and coolant is always near the top of the neck. The only problem is when I add fluid to the "minimum" line in the reservoir, which results in coolant being sprayed out (apparently through the radiator cap, both the old cap and the new one). Now I suspect the oil change mechanic also checked my fluid levels and added coolant to the overflow reservoir, which resulted in the original "spray" episode during my highway trip.
So the question is, why is this happening all of a sudden? Never did this before. Now I just leave the reservoir empty and check radiator level occasionally. But I would like to know why any fluid added to the reservoir when cold causes the radiator cap (apparently) to blow out the excess coolant (it is NOT leaking from the overflow reservoir).
My '86 Toy overheated, I added coolant and oil and it worked fine on one short trip. The next time I tried to start it, the starter cranks and cranks, no start and air bubbles are going into coolant reservoir. What's wrong? Mechanic pushing new engine, but it ran fine after overheating. I don't believe I need an engine.
View 5 RepliesReplaced pass side cyl head 7 years ago and now I've a misfire on cyl 1. Did wires and plugs as a matter of routine. Giveaway was rust deposit on rad cap. I always keep a strong coolant mixture and the rad is fairly new. Did a cyl pressure differential test and had bubbles coming out of rad. Funny thing is that had a rough few seconds on start, then smooth from then on. Getting my self fired up to tackle it. Have full gasket set and head bolts. Got a new head today. Am at 470k miles now.
View 6 RepliesSo this weekend my Y-fitting for the coolant hose (coming out of the reservoir) broke, literally after arriving at my friends house about 50 miles from home.
I "mended" it, and decided to try to take it home, as it is my daily. Temperature would get high, but not into the red, and drop back down. On the final rise, it got a bit too close to red for comfort. I drove about 25 miles, and my coolant light was on the majority of the time. The last 3-5 miles, my oil light came on. When I went to pull off the road, I pushed in my clutch and my car died. My first assumption was a head gasket (as I have been there before.
I open the hood and coolant is pouring out of my "mended" y-fitting. I check under the car - no oil, just coolant. The oil didn't seem to be "milky," but there seemed to be some sort of condensation on the filler cap. I checked the dipstick - not milky, just liquidy. I added some oil to the car, and had a friend bring some distilled water, and did a little bit better job of mending my fitting. I poured the distilled water in, and it started boiling almost immediately. I let the car cool for a couple hours and tried to start it, but nothing.
There's no white smoke, but the car just "puts" for a few cranks, and then it goes back to cranking. Looking around the engine housing, there doesn't seem to be any oil; but my car has a lot of grease on the block, so it's hard to say.
I did some searching, and it seems that it could be the oil cooler? I don't have the tools for a compression test, and the car was towed to a gas station, which is about 30 mins from my house.
The car is a 2004 Jetta, 1.8T Manual with the 5-speed.
When the car has been running awhile the coolant reservior and radiator make a boiling sound. It really only does it when it's been at idle for a bit. Radiator is full. Fan doesn't seem to come on after it has been running awhile but does when you turn on air. At what temp should it come on? The temp gauge never goes above the middle point so it stays in normal range, even when the tank are radiator are gurgling.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 Honda civic LX 4 cyl. There is an oily residue in the coolant reservoir an on the fill tube but when the radiator is opened the coolant is clean. The car is using oil but not running rough or hot. There is no tailpipe smoke or evidence of leakage. I am planning to do a compression check and look at the plugs.
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
1999 Honda CRV. Just took a 3-hour highway trip. Before trip I topped up coolant reservoir which was a little low, but radiator was full. I did notice some dried white spots on the front of valve cover and spark wires. Wasn't sure what it was, but now realize it was coolant residue. Probably only 1-2 cups were missing from the reservoir, so the leak had just started.
After 3 hour trip, checked engine compartment again. This time the reservoir was totally empty (radiator still full) and the engine was well sprayed with greenish coolant residue. The radiator was cool by the time I checked it, so the leak source wasn't obvious, but it looks to be coming from the seam where the plastic top meets the aluminum.
I will replace the radiator when I get home, but first have to drive the 3-hour return trip. Will it be OK as long as I start full of coolant and keep an eye on the temp gauge?
I checked the coolant level on the reservoir and it was low.
I decided to add coolant by removing the radiator pressure cap, however, the coolant fluid is full under this cap.
So my question is where should I add coolant? through this cap or the reservoir?
I have bubbles in the ps reservoir, I changed the Power steering pump, the ps hose, the ps fluid... I dont know what else to do. when the power steering become hot, it begin to do a noise and to do bubbles in the reservoir. The car is a Hyundai santa fe 2003 v6 2.7l
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Lexus GS430 w/ 100k miles. I've been trying to solve my coolant issue for the longest and I've been doing research like crazy!!! The issue that I'm having is that coolant from the radiator is blowing back into the reservoir causing the reservoir to be overfilled and splattering all over the engine bay. Also, when this happens the fluid in the radiator drops significantly ( I have to keep dumping the lost coolant from the reservoir back into the radiator). Under normal driving the fluid wont blow over to the reservoir that much (just a little) but, when I drive long distances or if I floor it that is when the coolant from the radiator really pushes over into the reservoir. When the car cools, I find out that the coolant from the reservoir does not draw back into the radiator. (I'm guessing due to the air in the cooling system?)
Checklist on what has been done to the car:
- NEW Water Pump (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Timing Belt (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Thermostat (Installed by Lexus) (I also tested the thermostat in boiling water and it opened and closed)
- NEW Radiator (Installed by Lexus also was pressure tested and passed)
- NEW Radiator Cap (Genuine Toyota 1.1 bar)
- Coolant Flush (flushed radiator and engine block with water hose)
-Bled System with my Lisle Spill Free Funnel and Heater on MAX HOT Full blast! Heater is working good!
(Did this 3 times for 30 min+ to get rid off all the air bubbles)
- Performed a Block Test to see if any combustion gasses were in the cooling system, to determine if it was a blown/failing head gasket (passed)
I dont know what else to do at this point other then do a compression test and a leak down test. There is no coolant in the oil and no coolant leaks. Car drives solid and strong! Is there a bleeder valve on the GS430 somewhere or does it have a bleeder valve? Is it something I'm doing wrong?
While servicing the bosses 121k 6.0, I noticed the coolant resevoir empty. It took 1 1/2 gallons to bring to proper level. Returning under truck to install drain plug, I noticed coolant coming from rear of the engine(right side). And of course Ford has changed the cooling system cap, so I wasn't able to pressure test it to pinpoint the leak. Started the engine and seen coolant coming from the left rear as well. I've been reading here to see what others have been seeing, (EGR cooler, head gaskets). With all the heat shields,not much room to look.
After work I did go and buy the adapter to test the cooling system. With any luck I will be able to see leak better.
I got my oil changed and was told my coolant reservior is cracked and leaking. I have been driving 4,000 miles since then and not known or noticed anything until informed today.
Is this a high priority fix? I'm not sure exactly what it is but my car hasn't showed any signs of overheating. Also what is an estimate of price for parts and labor?
Back in February, received a light and discovered that the inverter coolant reservoir was empty. I refilled the reservoir and cleared the code. Today, only 3 months later, the same thing happened. I don't see any wet hoses, puddles, or obvious signs of leakage. Where all my coolant is going? What steps should I use to properly troubleshoot...
View 8 RepliesI purchased a 2008 Prius with 117,000 miles lat month. I took it to a friend's house recently. When he was looking at the car, he told me that my coolant level is low and put some coolant in the reservoir. The next day when I was driving the car I was hearing a rattling sound every time I pressed on brakes. I could not figure out what could be the reason. The sound went away after couple of days. Today I was going through the manual and noticed the place where my friend put coolant in is actually brake fluid reservoir. It looks a lot like coolant reservoir of my other car. So now I am wondering what could happen if coolant goes into brake fluid reservoir. Will it harm my brakes? It has been about 2 weeks since that incident happened.
View 19 RepliesMy 2007 has 160k miles and at just over 100k I had toyota change all the fluids. That was about 3 or 4 months ago, it's a taxi. I started noticing the heat was only hot above 83, and sometimes not even hot at high. I thought I was out of fluid so I added to the overflow not wanting to open the cap on a hot motor. It didnt take much, but made the heat come back on above 80 degrees so I did nothing else.
Last night I had no heat again after driving about 200 miles. The heat came back after turning it off for a few minutes, but I stopped at a gas station anyway when I got off the freeway.
The overflow was full. It was also cold. So were the radiator hoses, but not what looked like power steering hoses next to it.
I check that belt pulley was spinning when the engine was running, it was. It a new belt put on by dealer.
The car doesn't show any signs of overheating, and is driven 300 or more miles a day in town and freeway. The motor was of course hot, but not overly so. None of the connected components were hot like I would expect if was overheating.
How do you know if the inverter coolant pump/reservoir is bad after the recall was performed?Since it doesn't produce any codes but can reduce the electric-drive if getting too hot, how do you convince Toyota to give it a second look?
View 5 RepliesI replaced a failing two way coolant valve and went ahead and replaced the coolant. After this the heater wouldn't get hot, so figuring there was still air in the system I added more (which it took)...and repeated that twice. (and opened the top valve to allow it to bleed). Finally heat.
I got up this morning and the heater still wasn't working....so I added more fluid....which it needed. Now I have heat.
BUT, The engine started running like crap. Code says misfire on cylinder 1. Changed the plug and coil pack. This did not work. (When I pulled plug one out the end of it was dry.)
Could it just be a crazy coincidence Immediately after I changed the radiator coolant that a faulty or clogged injector rare its ugly head? The car was running fantastic before this. I thought, before I check the codes, that some way maybe I overheated the car and landed with catastrophic issues.
I have 378,000 miles on my 07 pruius