Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Vibrating More Than Normal While Idling Or Stopped At A Light
Mar 14, 2011
I recently got an oil change at EZ Lube and since then my engine seems to be running a little harder. You can feel it vibrating more than normal while idling and when stopped at a light when it turns off, it REALY turns off like it's choking out and sort of kicks the whole car a bit when it shuts off.
I just switched the air filter just in case as it seem similar to my old car that would die if the carburetor wasn't bringing in enough air, but I'm not as familiar with fuel injected engines. Could it be the fuel filter or other engine issue?
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Well I drove the wife to work in her Prius this morning. I noticed in heavy stop go traffic, the engine was idling more than normal. Normally the EV light is on when I am stationary ( idle) in traffic, but for some reason today almost more than 70% of the stop go traffic the RPM was felt via the brake pedal and EV light was off, but the battery had at least 3 bars or more I think.
The load on the vehicle was the usual, AC on at 65 in ECO mode and radio. I guess this question might be more a hybrid newbie question than anything else. So, just curious what "drives" the vehicle to be in EV mode when stationary in traffic or in my case earlier this morning what prevented it?
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Weird problem on my Passat today. First the engine light came on...followed by rough idling. It smooths out when moving, but rough again when stopped. Noticed that turning ON the AC makes it a little smoother...but when you turn off the AC, resumes the rough idle.
Already made an appt with the dealer tomorrow...but wanted to see if this problem is familiar to other owners. Either way, I will update once the dealer finishes diagnosing the problem.
The car has been perfect up to 30k miles...now 2 problems in the last month.
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I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
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2006 Passat 2.0T ... Took the car for an oil change (non VW dealer) a few weeks back and about a week after the car started experiencing some vibrating/shaking from, I assume, the engine. This only occurs when the car is idling or at very low speeds.
It wasn't a typical shaking from side to side that you'd experience from most engines. The car was jumping front to back. It almost felt like stalling a manual transmission car. The revs jump slightly, about 100-200 rpm. It feels like the car wants to lurch forward and break free of the brakes. Now on some days this isn't a problem and on other days it's an issue.
Engine noise is a bit louder than usual. Sounds like the belts or the fan, but nothing is lose and the fan is working. I don't feel like all the power is there either, especially in lower gears and on take offs.
Ran the diagnostics, it didn't bring up anything other than some issues with the spark plugs and the coils. They were replaced but nothing changed with the problems. I have noticed oil level drop but there are no oil leaks anywhere.
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On my V6 2004 (just hit 120,000 kms, just changed the oils 2 weeks ago) I was driving on the hiway yesterday, when the whole vehicle started shaking and vibrating - engine light blinked a few times, then stayed ON solid.
I could reduce the shaking by letting go on the throttle pedal, so I stopped and checked, nothing obvious, oil level good etc. I could hear some sort of clunking noise when engine was revved up.
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When I rev the engine it momentarily goes down to below normal idling speed (sometimes it completely shuts off)then goes up to normal idle. I have found that if I press the throttle too hard before it recovers it always shuts off.
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Is it normal for the engine to turn on for about a minute when you first start it? Mine always does it, seems normal, but just wanted to check and also find out why. I assume it has to power a couple electrical things in the car?
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for the last three days, I had the big red master warning light come up four times during normal braking, also "Problem" was displayed on the LCD where "Add fuel" is displayed when fuel is low. But no error code showed on the OBD reader. I searched found that it might be related to 12V battery which I replaced two years ago.
2008 with 120K miles.
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I took my car to the car wash and they seemed to take longer to vacuum/wash it and while driving it away, I noticed something was off. It seems like the engine is louder than normal. Before when starting the car, it would take 30 seconds to a minute before the battery/engine would come on. Then while accelerating to about 25-35 mph, then the engine would come into gear. When going on the freeway, if accelerating at a quick speed it would sound really loud. Now, it seems like instead of silent, quiet, a little louder, louder and loudest - it's moved to the next level. When starting the car, the engine starts right away and when driving away (at less than 25 mph), the engine sound like I am on the freeway and when I'm on the freeway it sound like I'm trying to gun the engine. I don't know what it could be.
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Just picked up my 2004 Prius from the Toyota dealer body shop. The driver's side was scraped by someone who wanted to be in my lane. Fortunately, we were only going 35 mph. The rear door skin had to be replaced, and most of the side had to be prepped and painted. There are a few silly mistakes: they forgot to replace the driver's door plug, forgot to replace a lower clip, and smudged a tiny area new paint on the bumper. I brought that to their attention and they are going to take care of it... they have to order the plug and clip.
However, as soon as that conversation was complete, it was time for them to close shop. I sat in my Prius, started it, and the check engine light was on. Wasn't on when I dropped it off for the repairs. Also, on the way home, I noticed the engine wasn't turning off when I came to a complete stop (even though the animation says it was off). At idle, the engine is also rough. Looked at the charge bars, and well, there were only two bars showing.
I thought perhaps, though it's not done this before without the animation screen showing it, the engine was on merely to recharge the traction battery. On the way home, the traction battery returned to full charge (green), but the engine still was not turning off when the vehicle was at a complete stop... not was it turning off when coasting... and when arriving home, even with the car in park... and still idling rough. All the while, the animation on the screen is indicating the engine should be off.
When I replaced the traction battery three years ago, I also replaced the 12v with an yellow top Optima. I wouldn't think the Optima is already going bad. I also do not believe in coincidence. I wonder if perhaps some bad fumes have tainted the MAF, or who knows.
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I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
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The Accent is a 2004 and it belonged to my parents. It is a 5 speed manual trans. and has about 100K. It runs fine except when stopped and idling it stalls. It starts right up again, but stalls every time it idles. My dad said it was something inexpensive to fix, however he could not remember what the part was.
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I've been back from a year overseas for a little over a month and have been driving my 2 door R daily since coming back. All of a sudden today, the passenger side window started vibrating like crazy under normal driving. It is very loud and noticeable, but goes away once I crack the window. If I roll it up and crack the driver's side, I get the "helicopter vibration noise" some have noticed when the sunroof is open (I don't have a sunroof, but have noticed this on all my other VWs).
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I have a 2001 Prius with about 175K miles on it. I was headed to the beach this past Tuesday and had an oil change done right before I left. The trip here from NC to Myrtle Beach was about 200 miles. On the way back today, after I stopped to fill up on gas the 'check engine' light came on for the rest of the trip back home. I went tonight to Autozone and got back all the codes that are P0420, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0440 ....
My question is...Is it possible that all of those codes are somehow the result of my recent oil change? (Oil overflow?, etc.) I've been doing some searching in the archives for those codes and oil/fluid changes appear to be a possibility with all of them.
Just a little background, I've already had the hybrid battery replaced in this car a little more than a year ago. I've had no more warning lights come on since that time until today.
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This autumn a new noise has appeared in my UK 2004 Prius. When the heater is calling for heat and the engine is not running (i.e. coolant temp is above 63degC), a sort of 'growling' noise can be heard somewhere inside the heater core or beyond. A low-pitched rattling/rumbling which sounds rather like coolant mixed with air-bubbles going through a pump.
The only change there's been that might account for this is that I had Jemca Toyota in Bracknell carry out the hybrid coolant pump replacement (campaign 2509L). But I thought the heater was only fed by engine coolant, not hybrid coolant?
You can hear this noise stop when the engine starts, and restart when the engine stops. The Haynes manual seems to indicate that there's a pump for just this eventuality.
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I've had this happen twice: I'm stopped at a light (on relatively level ground--only slight incline). My gas engine kicks off. OK, fine. As it should. But then it comes on again, maybe a second or two or maybe three or four later, while I'm still stopped. First time, it did this a few times back and forth, all while stopped, waiting for the light.
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I only drive my car once a month or so to visit family. A few years ago my 12v Battery stopped working in my car. I assume age and just moving my car from one side to the other every morning contributed to this. I got the battery replaced at my local Toyota dealership in Jan 2012.
In early March of this year my 12v battery died again. I jump started my car every morning (with a portable battery pack) until I was ready to drive it a distance a few weeks later. I got about 2 miles and then my check engine light came on as well as my Hybrid System Warning Light.
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My Gen 2 2006 Prius engine works continuously and does not shut down even when car is stopped and parked. It shuts down after pressing power button. Problem started after I changed oxygen sensor and then car was reset by computer, could these actions cause the problem? What kind of problem is that and how to fix it...
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I have an 06 Prius with about 170k miles. The hybrid battery was replaced shortly before I bought the car last year.
About a month ago, the red triangle warning light started coming on when I'm stopped. It usually stays on for a few seconds once I start moving again. The MFD just says "Problem" for a few seconds, then displays the icon for a headlight. Once the light clears, the MFD goes back to its normal display. Originally, it was lighting up once every other day or so, but now it's lighting two or three times per trip. I'm going to have to do something about it, but I'm trying to get my head around what to expect.
My understanding is that the red triangle could mean anything from "The door is open and you're moving. Please close it." to "Your car is about to melt down! Seek cover!". I have an Automatic OBD dongle, and it's not reading any diagnostic codes. But as I understand it, there's a whole different set of diagnostic codes that a "regular" OBD reader won't catch.
I keep seeing reference to ScanGauge devices -- do they read the second set of diagnostic codes? I talked to a mechanic in the area who will read the codes for about $100. Is the mechanic likely to be reading the codes with that tool/is that what a dealer would use to read the codes? Is the dealer likely to charge to read the codes?
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I have an 08 Prius it has done 190,000 miles last week it suddenly started shaking from what felt like the transaxle. The car still drove and seem to shake a lot worse when it was in park or reverse it definitely felt like it was a bearing or something mechanical broken in the trans unit. After a bit of research I decided to remove the trans, strip it down and have a look convinced that I would find fragments of bearing or something blatantly wrong. Yesterday I removed the unit (nothing to be scared of, dead easy really) and today I have stripped the transaxle down (after viewing a very useful youtube video) much to my disappointment I cannot see anything wrong I am now thinking I was a bit too hasty and maybe it could be something else.
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