Prius (2004-09) :: Front Glass No Longer Automatically Raises Properly
Jun 24, 2014
A few days ago the 12V battery of my Prius II went flat. We got the car to start by connecting it with the 12V battery of another car.
Since then we have got a problem when we raise the front glass on the driver side automatically: if we trigger it so that it automatically goes all the way to the top it will no longer stop at the highest position. It will instead raise to the top, then go back down and stop at the middle.
We can still raise the glass by manually using the button and stopping manually at the right moment.
I am guessing that the car does not "remember" what is the correct "highest position" of the glass, and that this memory was lost because of the battery discharge. Any way to "teach" this to the car again ?
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Yesterday, I took my Prius to a parking lot. I normally just give them my entire key fob, however because the guy said he might be leaving early - he had me take the emergency key and he placed the smart key part under the mat so I could unlock the car.
However, now when I walk up to my car, it no longer automatically opens. And when I just to start my car without the key in the holder, it doesn't.
Did he do something funny? Do I need to reset anything? Do I need to yell at the valet guy?!
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Car was broken in last night. Went to a near by auto glass shop to get the glass replaced. After the glass replacement, the window will lower half way after it reached the top using the auto up function (pull up and release). It stays up if you hold the switch up. Why that is? Seems to me the jam protection is activated, according to the manual.
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OK so I know that my rear suspension no longer operates the way it should...with 230K miles and owned since 03....time has taken its toll. So I was wondering if any parts list to repair the rear air suspension so that I can take it directly to my toyota dealer to install. I can tell that the air suspension is trashed simply because I would normally hear the car lower when I parked in the garage etc...now it doesn't do anything.
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I worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
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I noticed today that when im sitting still and i turn the wheel the car raises up a noticable amount in the front on the passenger side, Im not sure if the drivers side was moving or not. I have never noticed this before but maybe i just wasn't paying attention? FYI I have coilovers, I'm not sure that matters or not.
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I'd like my mother to switch to the Prius we have to drive to and from work, but her vision is not perfect and she has trouble reading the very small indicators on the digital dash such as D, N, R, etc. Any rectangular magnifier lens or glass that could enlarge the view of the display?
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I have the shifter lever set-up. Goes in to 4x4 nicely, but back to 2-high, the dash light goes off, but you can still hear the gear whine in the T-case. Lay off the gas, it's still in, Rolling and go to neutral (get the load off) its still in. Come to a stop and go into reverse for a foot and you can hear the hubs pop out. I think they just need to be used more, but is there anything to "lube up" to make unlocking like it's supposed to?
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I have a 2004 v8 phaeton. Recently I found out the front shocks cannot work properly to absorb the shakes. I can feel stiffened and the car swayed badly on those light offroad. How come it doesn't happen to the rear shocks but just the front one?
It is so uncomfortable while driving in my car. I also drove it to vw 4s and have the tire rotation, wheel alignment done, then they checked the air suspension and said it still worked. Actually they didn't make my car being better, coz when i drove it back home i can still feel the same, shocks are tough and the car swayed, I wondered if the front shocks have been worn out. Then I ask the advisor from vw if he can order the new parts for me, then he answered they cannot replace them for me, coz it is air-shocks, i am so confused , what's that mean by air shocks?and air shocks can not be replaced?
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About a month ago I bought a 2004 F-250 160xxx from a reputable Ford dealer here in town. The dealer performed a safety and emissions inspection, and spent about a grand on other repairs, as a condition of my purchase. Today I had it in the shop for an instrument cluster issue (at a different Ford dealer, closer to my house), and was told the vacuum lines were all messed up. Their write up is below:
"Check 4x4 operation. Transfer case shifts to 4x4 and 4x4 low. Front hubs do not engage automatically. Check vacuum at the hubs. No vacuum. Check the vacuum at the solenoid. No vacuum. Perform visual of the engine vacuum lines. There is no vacuum to the reservoir. Vacuum line is routed wrong from the fuel pressure regulator to the vapor management valve. There is other vacuum concerns. All of the vacuum line routing needs to be inspected and corrected."
The service rep told me it is questionable whether the 4x4 ever worked, although during the few weeks I've owned it, I could hear gears or other mechanical parts making noise which seemed to me to be in response to me turning the 4x4 electronic switch. She also said there was a vacuum line dangling loose with a screw in the end of it.
Before I contact the dealer where I bought the truck, I am planning my going-in position. But I wanted to get a sense of a) how serious of a problem this might be? and b) how reasonable it is that the dealer didn't catch this issue before I bought the truck while they were in their fixing other things?
The dealer who sold me the truck made it very clear that the sale was as-is, and I took it to my mechanic prior to purchase, though unfortunately he only had time for a cursory look at the engine. Obviously he didn't look closely enough to find this issue.
I'm not sure if I should ask the dealer who sold it to me to fix it, or ask them to allow me to return it, or sell it back to them, or if I should eat the cost of fixing it. How wrong would it be to try to trade it in for something else?
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Took the car to the dealer, said "just turn off the beeps, all of them." The rep. said come back in an hour. Most of the beeps are off now, but I have an odd pair of problems.
1.) The rear hatch no longer beeps when open, but it also has no longer has the SKS function.
2.) The front seat belts no longer beep, but the front dome light no longer has an on-when-door-is-open function.
3) I'm waiting to see what bizarre side effects come from the single reverse beep.
The rep. says these are side effects from killing the beeps, that the nuisance beeps are tied to these two functions and that the only way to restore them is to bring back the beeps. He claims that the front beeps & dome light are triggered by a sensor inside the door that is part of the door latch, that when this sensor is disabled all its functions stop. I think he said it's the same problem with the rear hatch and its SKS.
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When approaching the car from any direction, if I am within a couple of feet of a door, the door automatically unlocks. It's wicked cool and I love that it does this but....I don't think it's supposed to.
I only have the only FOB that works (I have another but either the battery is dead or the fob is dead) so I can't test to see if it does it with both.
,I looked through the owners manual, and searched Google but I don't see anything saying this is something that is supposed to happen. The doors don't lock automatically, and if I press the door button to lock the car it doesn't unlock again. It only seems to unlock if I walk up to it locked and stand there for a few seconds.
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The Prius engine turns on/off automatically, so miles driven do not correlate to "Engine" miles. Thus, it makes sense to me that somewhere there should be access to "Engine hours". My diesel truck even offers this feature. Does this data is recorded and available??
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Title sums up the whole post. My Prius tends to use a bit of oil, I don't know the exact numbers just that it can't go without a couple top-offs between 10k oil changes. As much as I love this car it's because of that fact it will be sold after it's paid off as I've never seen a car that uses oil and yet drips none onto the ground.
Anyways it's because of its oil consumption and me not being used to having a car that needs its hood opened between oil changes that I've worried and wondered if I forgot to check it and it gets low enough to make the oil pressure drop will the hybrid system turn the engine off assuming I'm going slow enough for it to do so? I understand if I'm going over ~40mph the engine has to be spinning to prevent MG1 from over-revving.
So lets say I'm doing 65 on the interstate and the triangle lights up then I slow down and come to a stop will it prevent the engine from turning back on, or I'm sitting at a light and the engine is running because the heater is on then the oil pressure drops will it prioritize protecting the engine over the heater? Or is it like a typical car it will warn me but it's up to me to stop the car and turn the engine off as fast as I can to lessen the damage that is being done?
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I checked the voltage of my battery after sitting for 6 hours and it was 12.3 (through the diagnostic screen). The battery is only about a 1.5 years old.
A couple times I go to start the car and the dashboard lights turn on and off, the brake pedal feels like the hydraulic turns on and then off (with the lights) and it just cycles like this, unless you turn it off. Sometimes it starts after a few cycles.
A couple days ago I tried starting it and the check engine light came on (but no other lights). Then after trying a few more times the lights came on, but almost like acc mode (wouldn't let you put the car in drive). Then after trying more the gas gauge went up to full and started blinking, as well as boxes around the drive, park, B icons on the dash (almost like the computer was resetting). The battery seemed low, but after a few minutes it started up fine, and drove home.
Since then I've had the first issue return where it feels like the car is turning on, off, on, off.
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I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
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I have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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My 2005 Prius is 6 and a half years old and I have encountered a problem with an outside alarm that is one beep about 2 seconds long. I have checked my manual and I have found two possibilities, but, they don't seem to apply. Last week was the first time I had to go in and reset my maintenance needed reminder because my service station forgot to reset it after the last oil change. I am afraid in the severel attempts to do this I might have reset something else as well!
The outside 2 second beep occurs when the car is in my garage and the car is NOT locked. It also only occurs if I am outside of the car and have the key fob with me. It happens with either key fob near the car. If I lock the car I don't have a problem. It is as if everytime I come near the car with my key fob that it is reminding me that the car is unlocked.
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Hard to put it all in a title. I have 149K miles on our 2009. The warranty expires in 1000 miles. I've noticed recently that I can no longer engage the ev mode with the ev mod. I always get a "cannot change into eve mode" message on the MFD. It used to be that I could do it before the engine started or after all warm up cycles were complete.
Now, when first powering on, ev mode won't engage before engine start and there is no MFD message. After warm up is complete, the message appears on the MFD whenever I try to change to EV mode.
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I am having an issue where my Navigation display on my 07 Prius wont respond properly to touch. Like i would press in the left corner and it registers in the right. So i have given up on fixing it and just going to buy a new unit. My question is how can i tell which unit i need so that it fits and i still have all my options that my car has. I have an 07 model with navigation, back up camera, Bluetooth, leather seats, JBL audio not sure which exact model it is tho.
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