Prius (2004-09) :: Hard Braking / Front 12V Outlet Fuse Blown
Aug 15, 2015
I've had it happen a few times over the past few years (07 Pri) that when I have to brake really hard, the front lower dash 12V lighter outlet fuse blows. Seemed odd at the time but when I replaced the fuse and everything came back to life I kind of forgot about it.
Today we had a crazy idiot try the mad dash across 4 lanes of traffic and that of course made all cars slam on their brakes. Wouldn't say it was a ABS type slam but certainly hard braking.
Anyway, I heard the chime of a 12V device powering off and a bit later we noticed the MFD, radio, and clock were all off. Probably everything cut out at the same time but obviously attention was on the traffic not the electronics.
I saw some people mention that is the ACC fuse which I'm about to go and check on, but what is causing this. Just seems odd that hard braking causes such electrical issues. Wouldn't think there would be an overlap in systems but maybe?
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I am having the headlight problem on my 2006 prius (and have seen thousands of posts about it). The drivers side goes in and out and has done so for 6 months. But now the passenger side is doing the same and the 12 volt outlet fuse has blown. There are 133000 miles on it (nothing done to the vehicle except oil changes and new tires) Replacement bulbs from eBay are on the way. I have replaced the fuse and its ok now. I don't know if they are unrelated or if this a battery issue.
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I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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(CORRECTION: AM1 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
(Correction 2: Update 6/3/2014 AM-2 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
What caused my shutdown and the ECU-IG fuse to blow while driving normally? I want to get educated prior to the dealer's response.
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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I have owned my Prius three, not III, for just over 2 years now. The first year I had no issue but now, when charging my iPhone 6, the fuse blows every 2-4 weeks. (My phone is the ONLY thing I ever plug in there). I finally tried replacing the 15amp fuse with a 20amp (I know, that's a no no). But I still blew the 20amp fuse now.
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So I have an Android smartphone. That I always put on the charger in my 2005. However. I have blown the fuse to the cigarette lighter. Both the one in the center console and the one under the passenger side dashboard.
The last time that happened. I bought the indicated 15 Amp fuse (as the Owner's Manual indicates - vaguely) Only to find that swapping out fuse 20 IIRC. Yielded no power to those ports.
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So I added in a set of LED lights for my license plate and parking lights. In addition to HID's for the headlights tonight. At some point my tails/parking & license plate lights shut off. I assume its a fuse, I'm wondering if this is common or the result of low quality product.
I've used the same installer/lights on every car I've had for the last 5 yrs and never an issue. No issues in my Scion Xd, Mustangs and so on.
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I own a 2005 GX 470 recently I got in to drive the car and the navigation screen would work for climate control and audio functions but the map would not display. A bunch of warning lights were also on ABS, VSC etc. Upon investigation I found the ECU-B fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and everything appeared to be fine. About 3 days later and the same thing happened again. I again replaced the fuse and it lasted a couple of days and blew again. I have not been able to isolate it to any one thing that seems to trip it. How to best determine the cause of the issue?
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My 2007 Prius brakes extremely hard at low speed (while I am applying the same amount of pressure). While decelerating, I let the regen braking do most of the work until I get to about 10mph, then I press the brake so I will have equal pressure until I stop. When I get to about 5mph I feel almost a lunge where the brakes aren't working as hard and then the brakes take hold extremely hard. My prius has been doing this for awhile not depending on the weather, but I finally noticed it worse than normal yesterday when it was raining and my car braked hard and actually skid and the traction control light came on.
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I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
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I just had my front axels replaced. The Cv's were clicking. That problem was fixed.
Metal clunk at initial acceleration and hard braking (none during steering)...
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This is very weird. A strange noise occurs intermittently. It sort of sounds like a pulley slipping on a steel shaft briefly followed by a brief rattling noise and may or may not blow out fuse number 14 (A/C Pressure switch, backup lamp and daytime running lights, redundant speed control heated pcv, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror), then the brake light and the ABS light is displayed and the cruise control quits working. It does not ALWAYS blow out the fuse as I discovered yesterday.
The first time it happened (about three months ago) I was doing 75 when it happened and was unable to figure out what it was. Yesterday it happened and I new it was fuse number 14. I replaced the fuse and it happened again within 3 minutes. It may be when I turn the wheel to the left. The first time it happened I was changing lanes, yesterday when it happened I was on a ramp turning to the left. In the driveway it happened as a backed up and turned the wheel to the left. I cannot identify where the noise comes from. After the noise and the blown fuse the truck runs just fine and I can continue to drive.
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2008 Prius. I am just starting to have power door lock system problem. The power locks would not work either with the fob button, the keyless entry, or the door buttons. I have replaced the battery in both key fobs. I have also found the 25 Amp fuse in position 11 of the fuse block located driver's side instrument panel (Power door lock system) was blown and have replaced the fuse. The fuse has blown again after 3 days. I can still start the car with without inserting the key. Why is my fuse blowing?
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So... have a 2010 Prius V, about 80,000 miles.
Tried to start it this morning and got a "Check Hybrid System". No start. Brought it to the local Toyota mega dealer here in Lakeland, FL. (They were pretty organized and on things, so I was pretty impressed.)
Anyway, just got a call back and it's a junction block fuse that was blown. Questions I have are
1) What is this a fuse for? The actual hybrid battery?
2) Where is it located, and
3) (the EE in me) Doesn't something usually cause this fuse to blow?
Dealer will attempt to replace fuse and drive it around to see if it's fixed, but something typically causes fuses to blow.
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I bought my first Lexus, great car. 2003 GX470 with 106k. I have had one problem with the fuse for the dome light. This issue has been on going since I bought the vehicle a couple months back and I can usually fix the problem by just replacing the fuse. Now when I try to replace the fuse, the fuse sparks and blows before I can even put it into the slot. Obviously there is something going on here that won't allow the fuse to be inserted before blowing. How to rectify this issue?
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The power outlet in the tray under the front console in my wife's '08 RX400h has stopped working. I checked all three power outlet fuses indicated in the owner's manual and all are good (75 and 76 in the driver's side instrument panel fuse box and number 21 in the engine compartment (type B) fuse panel). Do I need to start ripping out the tray under the front console to find the problem?
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I am trying to troubleshoot a sound that I've begun to notice coming from the front of my '08 Prius. I've had this car since new, and it now has a little over 40,000 miles on it. (Please note the sound I'm referring to is not the brake pump electric "whirring" noise that happens evey so often, it's definitely something new/different.) I first noticed it maybe a year ago, but it seems to be happening progressively more often.
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Searched but couldn't find this topic..... My front power outlet won't work. I replaced the fuse, and the one inside the console works. I think I shorted something out trying to get a multi-socket device to work
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Out of nowhere my fuse #30 has started blowing - thats the one that supplies the DC outlet points, or cigarette lighter plugs. And no, there are no pennies stuck in the outlets!
I've removed and unplugged all 4 outlet points from the loom, thats the one on the dash, inside the center console, behind the center console and lastly the one in the boot. Still a total dead short.
I've disconnected the 220v AC inverter thats behind the center console, and still measure a dead short.
What else does this fuse/line supply? The only things not working are my lighter plugs, everything else seems fine. Any wiring diagram perhaps - I'm sure there hasn't been much of a change in interior wiring over the years.
2009 2.0 TDi
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