Bought my prius 2008 about six weeks ago. My commute takes about five to ten minutes and involves dropping the kids off at school. My mileage is 6.1 l per 100 Km. Not great but half of what my Saab takes.
I can often glide the Prius with ICE off shortly after starting the car. However, I have noticed that sometimes the ICE won't switch off after gliding down from higher speeds.
Do you think that I should glide when going down a hill and slow down or keep the ICE running and getting some mph? I tend to think that it's better to glide even over 42 mph.
View 14 RepliesNew to the Prius family. Bought a 2014 PIP advanced last week strictly as an economic play. Am noob when it comes to driving techniques, currently average 72 mpg on 90 mi. trips with one charge, so doing better than I expected. I did read up on the Pulse and Glide techniques for the standard Prius and the 'verification' of the glide portion for those is the lack of any power arrows emanating from either the ICS , MG2 or battery on the MID. I have been unable to replicate this on the PIP. In other words, when I am 'gliding' on my PIP, the ICS is off but there always seems to be a green charge indicator flowing back to the batteries from the front wheels.
Keep in mind, my foot is on the accelerator slightly, there is no 'white' bar protruding into the CHG area or the ECO area and I know I am 'gliding/coasting' as no matter how long I am in this sweet spot, even though the charge arrows are active, I DO NOT top up the battery at all, which says to me the car is indeed 'gliding' without the regenerative brakes or ICS in play and it certainly FEELS like I'm gliding as with over-inflated tires (44/42) the PIP seemingly coasts forever. I'm thinking this is a different behavior from a standard Prius in this 'glide' sweet spot, as, at least on my PIP, I can never get the MID to blank out in terms of energy flow. I.E. have you managed a 'pulse and glide' in a PIP getting the all energy flow arrows to disappear .
Can you glide (meaning no engine engaging) on straight road without a hill without loosing any speed over 40mph? I only can when my speed is dropping. I can drive all electric around town without EV mode, no problem.
Stock Yokohama's, front and rear @ 40psi. will bump them to 44psi. Also oil is higher the high mark, which I am planing to drain.
This could totally be my imagination or the fact that I'm used to driving a Honda, but I somehow get the sensation while driving on the highway that I need to "hold on tighter" to the steering wheel. I feel like the car is easily swayed to the right or left, and that I can't just casually keep one hand on the steering wheel. Sometimes I feel that I have to keep the steering wheel straight.
Probably just my imagination and I have to get used to driving a 4motion VW.
Shifting from 2 to 3rd seems to hold too long (surging) in many instances. 1st to 2nd is always perfect and smooth. Also it seems to engine brake (rather than gliding) at times when I take my foot off the gas. This is not desirable.
I plan to change the ATF and filter soon. I don't expect this to work but it is a good to do it since it has not been done. VW says it is a life time fill. I am not getting a check engine light.
Is this something that can be modified with software using a VAG Com diagnostic system or similar? Is this indicative of some other issue?
1999 VW Jetta with 01m automatic...
Does it harm the emergency brake to use it instead of the foot brake to slow while gliding into a parking spot?
View 19 RepliesOK, I finally resolved the bad skid control ECU, so I have no more codes relating to ABS sensors or pump actuator. Still get a C1310 when travelling at speeds over 60 for 10 minutes or so. After the car sits for a while, the idiot lights, triangle, ABS and brake lights disappear and the car runs fine. Except it has been whining at acceleration and deceleration a bit more than I remember. When I hooked up Tech stream, I got a P0A2B which is - Drive motor "A" temperature sensor circuit range/performance. Please tell me it isn't transaxle. Why does it only happen at high speeds? I can drive for 20-30 minutes around town without it triggering the dreaded red triangle.
View 4 RepliesJust installed new rims. Front tires are different than the back (temporarly), could this be causing the slip light to turn on when i hit speeds past 60? (it had not done this before.)
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius (now has 220K + miles) I bought used about 2 years ago with 150K miles. I finally got used to the car sounds so this is something new, or rather it's becoming louder and enough for me to question it. The car is still quiet at low speeds but this sounds like something related to how fast the car is rolling, not the engine acceleration. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the wheels. It's a low roar like sound, not high pitched and it sounds like it's coming from under the middle to front of the car as if related to perhaps the drive train. If I am up to 40-50 mph and just rolling (foot off the gas) down a long hill, the sound is there. It gets louder the faster I go. Could it be a transmission sound? I've always had manuals so this is my first automatic transmission car.
View 11 RepliesPurchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
View 5 RepliesI've noticed, maybe a handful of times in the 5k miles I've owned the car, that the engine will rattle excessively for maybe 30 seconds or so on a drive. This only happens during high load/low speeds and I think after the engine has been off for at least about 10-15 minutes. It doesn't happen on start up, only after the car is warm, but hasn't been using the engine for a bit. I'm thinking this is fuel enrichment (really rough running) because the cat has cooled.
View 6 Replies 2nd gen Prius started to act strange after 6 years.
The problem I noticed is that the ICE is running too much, for example even when I am stopped after 30-40 minutes of continuous drive (no traffic jam), hot weather (about 27 C degrees, 80 F), battery showing 7 lines.
Even when I try to enter EV mode I am not allowed.
See some pictures below. All 3 made when stopped. In the past the ICE was off in these conditions.
Maybe the ventilation of hybrid system is bad ? I see no other explanations.
I have 144,000 miles on my V6. Just started to notice that the car is surging/hesitating at just about all speeds. It appears to idle fine and if you raise the RPM in neutral I can't detect a problem. If you place the trans in drive, apply the brake and raise the RPM to 1000 to 1500 the engine's RPM varies slightly and regularly, it not steady like all of my other cars. When you are at highway speeds you can feel the car slightly buck, if you take it out of overdrive it is more detectable due to higher RPM. I do not notice the problem when the engine is cold.
I have a hand-held scanner and I see no codes and there is no CEL illuminated. I changed the plugs with OEM plugs at 90,000 miles when I changed the timing belt. Changed the air filter probably 10,000 miles ago. Just cleaned the MAF sensor (after the problem started), no change. Took it to the dealer. They discovered broken motor mounts which I kind of suspected I had, but I didn't feel the symptom were mount related. They said that I was feeling torque converter lock-up. I told them that the range of speeds and gears that the problem presented itself that it was unlikely lock-up.
Alldata suggests that it is a fuel problem and Toyota has some TSB's for drivability. I'm discounting the TSB's because this just started recently. Any hints as to where to try first? EGR, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation damper, injectors, spark plug coil packs, ..... It gets too expensive to just remove and replace the sensors that deal with the fuels system. I have plenty of tools plus a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge.
07/21/2009 : While I was at work I added Seafoam to the gas, tank was half full.
On my way home from work I disconnected the EGR Position Sensor connector and the symptoms disappeared and the expected CEL illuminated. When I arrived home I went on Alldata and looked for an EGR system test. I found two, one for the position sensor and one for the EGR temperature sensor.
I had to run out to Sears to pickup a vacuum pump. I performed the tests below up to the point that I needed the pump. I also removed, inspected and reinstalled the EGR Position Sensor before I left for Sears. I did not notice the symptoms on the trip about 14 miles round trip. I'll see if I still have the problem on my way to work tomorrow.
Performed the on-vehicle inspection as listed on Alldata
EGR Position Sensor resistance: 2.6 ohms, in spec
EGR Position Sensor power: 5.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with no vacuum applied: 1.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with 5.1 in Hg vacuum applied: 4.0v, in spec
07/22/2009 : Problem seems to have gone away, no bucking or hesitation. Maybe the connector contacts were dirty on the position sensor. Will update if the symptoms return.
09/07/2009 : Noticed that I am getting 2 miles per gallon more than before I found the problem.
I left my car for a week in the garage and the battery ran down. I had it re-charged but now even running the radio for a ten minutes with engine off runs down the 12v. The panel check says that its charge is over 12.4 v. What is going on? How do I prevent having to jump start the car every day or so even after running for 20+ miles at freeway speeds?
View 5 RepliesCar was running. Both rear running lights out.
Intended to pull #9 'stop' fuse. (I did not see #16 'tail' fuse). Instead, pulled #8 'OBD' fuse. Returned the #8 OBD fuse.
Purchased an 04 Prius with 140k miles and bad HV battery. Used torque app and pulled original codes for bad HV battery. I was able to drive/limp the car home for tear down and replacement. After installing a used HV battery that had 80k from and 08 car. It will start but shutdown after a few seconds. I was able to put it in to drive and move it but it still dies. Energy display shows no battery status and now I get the connect to air conditioner communication warning. The battery's are reading 15.2 volts each from the torque app these are read in pairs so seeing 14 readings all within .1v of each other. I am not getting any codes from the computer.
View 19 RepliesMy wife has recently been complaining that the AC will work for a while, but then it stops working after running for about 30 minutes. She also reports that, at that time, the air flow (blower speed?) seems to drop tremendously. I have observed the former but not the latter, so I can't say for sure that if it really drops in air flow or if it's just a matter of perception. I put my AC gauges on it and it reports the following:
Static reading is 70/100 PSI
Reading system on is 17/145 PSI
Ambient temperature is ~92 degrees humidity is 65%
Vent reading is ~77 degrees
I can see movement in the sight glass while the vehicle is running. I'd like to add a little refrigerant (if that's what it looks like it needs) just to see if we can make it through the summer. Prior to the AC problems popping up.
My Prius started shaking pretty bad when the ICE is running. This morning I got the codes read and it came as Cylinder #1 misfire. I figured the coil pack is going bad (as is known to happen) so I swapped #1 and #2. The misfiring actually got better for about 30 minutes, but it finally happened and the CEL flashed again.
So I took it to get the code read but he said the only code is still #1 misfire. Perhaps the ignition coil is OK then? I bought a new spark plug, maybe the plug has gone bad. The plugs only have 45k miles on them. I'll swap it out and see what happens. What I should do to diagnose the issue? It seems to be slowly getting better...this afternoon it was much better than this morning but still shaking sporadically.
Last nite a driver told me that both my rear tail lights and and running lights were out - but brake lights and license plate light worked ok. I checked the bulbs are they are fine. Where I can find a wiring schematic for the 07?
View 5 RepliesAfter driving 20 min at 40 mph, I came to a traffic stop. The engine was still running, the battery was at 75% full, outside temp 80, A/C set at 75. I noticed the MDF showed no engine running at all. But I can feel a little vibration, which tells me that the engine speed was very low, and not constant, at/below idle speed.
When I finally get home and park the car, the battery was green! Basically the engine kept running even for the last 5 min when I drove at 30 mph.
Does that indicate something wrong?
My car is a 2004 at 222K miles. 12V Battery changed 3 years ago, PCV, spark plugs changed 6 month ago. I've noticed sometime that HV battery is weaker than before, easier to get high engine speed when picking up at 50 mph +.