Prius (2004-09) :: Slow Acceleration / Battery Not Charging And Transaxle Slipping
Jun 7, 2014
I have a 2005 Prius with 110,000 mi. Sometimes when I accelerate the ICE (gas engine) simply spins (as if the clutch was slipping in a convention car) and there is little acceleration and the gas engine doesn't shut off when coasting or braking as it always has in the past. The battery screen shows it is not charging when this happens and is at 1 bar (purple). then sometimes the hybrid battery gauge will go from 1 bar to fully charged (green) in under a minute or 2 and then show discharging just as fast which isn't possible. It goes away after a restart sometimes but then happens again soon. Is it the TP sensor, Hybrid battery computer or ? I have gotten all kinds of codes including P0a93, P0a80, P1400, P040a.
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The prius stock battery is weak compared to my wifes Mercury Mariner battery. The Mariner acceleration on battery alone is excellent - she can get up to 30 mph in no time on just the battery. In my prius it has very slow acceleration at a dead stop while running only on battery. Is it possible to buy aftermarket (stronger) batteries for the prius so I can at least driver the car up to 30 mph only on battery?
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I came across this site that seems to implicate very common issues with failures in gen 2 : Transmission Slipping ! | Hybrid Cars
With people experiencing lack of power and "slipping" sensation or tranny going from drive to neutral.
I thought there were common issues with gen 1 motors burning up inside transaxle, but I thought gen 2 was much improved with only rare failures. Yes, I did read both sticky threads giving very detailed accounts how to replace them.
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I have a 2005 with 165K on it. Just within the last 2 weeks, at start up, no matter what level the charge shows on the display, the HV battery will almost fully discharge and then come back up to full charge within a mile of driving. I just replaced the 12V battery thinking this could have been an issue, but it didn't change anything. The car never acted like this since I bought it in 05. When it drops to the discharge level, It running on ICE only, with the typical slower acceleration. What could be going on?
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I have replaced a bad module in the HV battery and balanced it. Inverter coolant pump has been checked and inverter coolant has been replaced. Engine coolant has been drained and refilled. (Both coolant jobs followed Haynes manual guide including bleeder valves.) Transaxle fluid is full.
After each step of troubleshooting I have done a test-drive. Warnings come on consistently within 2-2.5 miles, day or night. I do not have a scan tool, but I do have the trouble codes from Toyota (all prior to my repairs). Is it possible that a bad ECT sensor could trigger all of this?? Is there something else I can check?
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I have got Prius 2004. I have got a problem. With MFD. It's showing the screen where it should show that the battery is charging but it's not showing the charging at all. Car is running fine and starts as normal. I have changed the 12V battery but it's still not showing the charging.
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Recently we went on trip requiring a 3 hour ferry ride. Decided to keep it in READY to listen to the stereo and maintain a minimal level of heat. I noticed the engine kicking on and no arrows from or to anywhere. The HV battery gauge was mostly down to 2-3 bars but still no arrows. There were times that it kicked on and the arrows showed the batteries being charged too. Was the engine kicking on without charging just to maintain the engine coolant temp to provide heat for the cabin, or what?
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In 2006 I purchased a 2004 5-speed manual shift Nissan Xterra 4x4 with 19k miles on it, it looked and ran like new.I live in Florida, during the Summer of 2010 I noticed that when I accelerated from a standing start (like at a traffic light) as I shifted through gears 1-4, at some point the RPMs would rev up but the car was accelerating very slow. The only time this doesn't happen is in 5th gear or in 4WD-high or 4WD-Low. This problem is not consistent, it happens occasionally but enough times that I've had to alter the way I accelerate to avoid this problem, ie accelerate very very slowly.
I have taken my Xterra to my local Nissan dealer, twice, they cannot replicate this problem no matter what they do; drive it cold, drive it hot, fast, slow, cold weather, hot weather, no matter, they can't replicate the problem.
I have read here and there on the 'net (we all know the 'net never lies) that the transfer case on 4WD's can act squirrelly or could even be a simple case of replacing the transfer case fluid.
Why this "slippage" is happening and how can it be fixed? This is of concern only because if I have to accelerate hard (like when a locomotive is looking to T-bone me) I'd like the Xterra to get up and go rather than pause and reflect over the lilies of the field while Thomas the train is bearing down on me.
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I have an 05 prius with 108k miles that I bought about 3 months ago. I had noticed some times during phase 1 warm up where prius is in park and ice is charging the battery there will be mildly violent jerking of the car.
I was messing around the other morning, after driving the car about 30 minutes then letting it sit for about an hour in 40 degree f weather. I readied the car and it started charging the battery. While still in park i pressed the gas pedal to see what would happen. The mfd showed no arrows which I assume is normal. But when I let off the gas pedal there was a abrupt jerking as the mfd showed power flowing from the ice to the battery again.
Experienced jerkiness while in phase 1? After phase 1 is complete I do not notice any more of this behavior.
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First a little background on the car , it has 217,000 miles. The battery was just replaced with a used one. While taking it through the carwash, she put it in neutral and a minute or two later she got a warning that the battery was not charging and to put it in gear. Sounds like the battery is having issues to me. She has a 60-day warranty.
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195k miles.... I have charged the battery, I have bought a new battery, I have Charged the new battery... All with no avail.. Slowly but surely one at a time the abs trac control and stability control lights come on and eventually the triangle of death... Meaning when I shut it off its not going to restart.. If i drive it sparingly it might take a week if i drive it all day then it takes one day... when fully charged there is no warning or sign that there is a battery issue or draining untill the voltage is starting to get low. I have an ultra gauge hooked up and shows 14.14 while driving, I am lost as to whats the issue. also no codes or pending codes... I have taken the new battery to auto zone and had a functional test done.. said checked good... signed befuddled
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The MFD on my 2005 prius shows that every time the gas engine kicks in, it trys to charge the batt. even when it doesn't need to be charged. This has been happening for about 2 weeks, and not one time has the gas engine kicked in without showing the arrow going to the electric motor, even when the batt is completely full. I know it's not just a problem with the MFD because my MPG average has clearly gone down since this started.
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I've been noticing that my battery is almost always fully charged or close to it. Then I noticed that when I 'should' be getting assist from the MG2 and not charging the battery, i'm not getting the assist I would assume I should be getting. Seems like most of the energy is getting put back into the battery instead of assisting the MG2
Notice how the arrow is going to the battery from the MG2 (ELECMOTR) and not vice versa. This is majority of the time. Getting less of this also. hince - MPGs are down also.
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I've seen this a couple times but always made it home with the Red Triangle and VSC warning. A year ago, I blamed it on the OEM 12 volt battery and eventually replaced it with a Optima Yellow Top. No more problem until today. Day time driving with my Plug-in Supply 10k rechargeable conversion performing normally. City driving raining but normal Western WA conditions. Red Triangle and VSC warning. Other systems operating normal.
I knew, from previous experience that the Prius operating systems would continue to work only until I turned it off. I did turn off the Plug-in Supply controller to isolate that system and observed that the OEM traction battery was at a fairly high state of charge and the ICE was still providing the normal amount of assist to the traction battery through normal street and driving conditions.
I should have driven the 20 + miles to get home, even with the Red Triangle warning. I had done that in the past with the old OEM 12v battery. But I needed gas and went to a station and turned off the system ICE out of habit. Sure enough, the system wouldn't go back into Ready but would go from Park to Neutral. Since it was rain hard now, and I was calling my road service, I ask for a Flat Deck Tow home rather than a jump start.
As soon as I got off the tow truck I put my battery charger on the Yellow Top and it only read 11.7 volts. It's still on charge now. Now I'm wondering why the power conversion system wasn't charging the 12 volt battery or is my 1 year old Optima bad?? Or is there something about my driving conditions/plug-in conversion that is effecting the charge of this battery. I did a 2400 mile road trip to So. Calif and back to WA without any problems. Car has just 98169 miles right now. About 10k miles on the Plug-in Supply conversion.
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I was driving yesterday in a hurry to get to a wedding… I suddenly found myself going up an incline of perhaps 20 degrees at 80mph impossible…the car would stop accelerating like a belt was slipping, the sensation was that the car would try to go but couldn't and would catch and pick up a bit then slip… I had to take it down to 55 and even then had some slippage. I had told my dealer about this concern in the past and told everything was fine. Last time I was at the dealer they said i needed a serpentine belt replaced… Could this be causing the issue? It's likely the transmission/cvt/psd... I honestly thought my car was going to die, but managed to make it back with almost no issue on the way home going 80 without inclines. is this even an issue or am i just pushing my car too hard??
2008 prius/55k miles.
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I have a 2007 Prius 3 Touring Edition. I purchased it new in Dec. 2006. I have had NO issues with my favorite car of all time, and currently have 90,600 miles. I have noticed a high pitch for a long time coming from the transaxle during acceleration. The pitch is only present when MG1 or MG2 is engaged. The pitch stops in stealth mode. My finance also has a 2007 Prius, and her's does not make the noise or whine when I drive her vehicle.
I have changed the transaxle fluid at 65,000 miles, but I did not see the plug when it was changed so I don't know how much, if any, shavings were stuck to the magnetic bolt. If you are wondering, yes, the high pitched noise was present before the fluid change. Also, as I accelerate and increase speed, the noise pitch increases.
Is my transaxle displaying a tell-tale sign of imminent failure?
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It's a hot 110 degree day in my 08, we have 5 in the family. Parked for three hours and on return starts up normally. Noticed low torque and slow acceleration on take off. Got on the freeway and slowly got up to 65MPH with obviously only the ICE working.
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I just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.
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My mechanics found today when the car is on the lift, that the transaxle oil is leaking a little. I can see the fresh oil there (not dipping though). He said to open the transaxle and change the gaskets probably will cost $300.
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I don't own a Prius, but my parents own two identical 2002 models (each with 120k miles).
My mother's car wasn't driven for nearly a month (hip replacement), and when they tried to start it last week, the ready light would blink 3 times - but no cranking.
After taking it to the dealer, they were quoted $4600 to replace the traction battery and ECU. We did the mandatory research on rebuilt batteries, but with only a vague diagnosis from the dealer, we were not convinced that this was the (only) problem.
So, my brother and I decided to swap the ECU, then the battery from my father's working Prius to my mother's - thereby proving the issue. Upon removing the 'dead' battery from mother's car, I decided to open the module, and check each battery. We measured anywhere from 3.0 to 6.4V on the individual cells - and 7.0V to 11V on the paired cells. It was clear that the batteries had discharged unevenly. The total charge remaining was about 151V - still above the 40% SOC minimum I'd read about.
We then bought 5 x 10A chargers from Walmart, and connected each to a pair of modules. Set the charge to rapid (10A) and waited 30 minutes (or until the charger indicated full). After 2 hours, all 19 pair were charged fully - with each reporting 15.7V +/- 0.5V. The total power was about 295V.
We reassembled the battery, re-installed it, and the car started immediately. We let it sit running, until it cycled off on its own. About 5 min later, the ICE fired again to charge the 12V battery - but it threw a P3006 error code. It showed a PS + MAIN + battery icon on the MFD. Using an OBDII scan tool, we cleared the error, and drove the car for a few miles. The error code did not return during that drive - but did one more time after letting it cycle off/on automatically. After clearing the code a second time, it never repeated again.
My assumption is that the 300V HV charge was above the 80% SOC and it didn't like that. But after a few cranking cycles, and the tendency for the battery to discharge back to it's rated output, the error no longer repeated.
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Is there anyway to charge a couple of batt cells by running the car.
Just replaced 2 packs and there voltage is 2-3 volts lower than the rest of the batt packs? the ones replaced are at 14.5 to 15 where the others are at 17-18 volts.
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