Prius (2010-12) :: Hard Driving As Heavy Acceleration / Often Pedal To The Floor
Jul 25, 2015
So for reason irrelevant, at about 500 miles on the odometer, I drove the Prius quite hard the past couple of days. In retrospect, a poor decision as I am now all kinds of concerned as to what kind of damage I may have done. I know break-in is said to be 600 miles so I was below that. I'll describe my 'hard' driving as heavy acceleration, often pedal to the floor, a few hard stops and umm excessive speed (we'll leave that up to interpretation). So I'm just stressing about it now.
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I have a 2007 Prius with ~180000, which runs great. The mechanic shop I used for oil change suggest me to change spark plug because they are dirty. After the change, I found I cannot step on the gas pedal too hard for acceleration. The car will hesitate, choking or die if I try to accelerate too fast. But if I step on the gas pedal gently, and let it reach the desired speed in a slower way, it has no issue. I went back to the shop and they replaced with another set of 4 plugs, and no improvement. I checked air intake tube and it looks no leak, but really old. Other than that, the car runs great.
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When its heavy snow; which mode I should drive; I have 2012-Prius 3rd Gen - 26K Miles; I am driving in Mountain area every day ? The tires are still in good condition.
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My two month old Touareg has a leak! After driving in a heavy rain water accumulated on the front passenger floor. It looks like its coming from the ventilation duct behind the glove box or possibly through the firewall.
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My 1995 Audi 90 Sport needs to have the acceleration pedal pushed very far, about half way, before the car begins to to move, also when the pedal is put all the way to the floor the vehicle only goes to around 70mph.
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Got stuck in the sand pits today. While trying to get out by going forward and back. I always get the front end starts bouncing hard. I always let off. Is this wheel hop or axle wrap?
Whatever it's called. How do I minimize this. It's a shame to have all that power and not be able to lay it down.
2002 excursion 4x4 7.3 l all stock.
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2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?
What should pressure be at while running ?
What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?
Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?
Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?
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Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
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I bought a 2001 chevy malibu about a month and a half ago.when I test drove it,didnt notice any problems or leaks...after driving it for a 2 weeks...the brake pedal would drop to the floor while driving and then if I hit it again real quick it would be ok...this problem would happen now and then....we replaced the right front caliper thinking that it was sticking and bled all the brakes..There was air in the system..everything was fine for about two more weeks then while driving the pedal would get hard when applied and then drop again..not all the way to the floor,and it alternates that way..what are your thoughts? I don't have much money to fix this problem.
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I've got a 2001 Excursion with the 7.3 and while out driving around on Friday I noticed that my brakes were gone and when I pushed the pedal it went straight to the floor. I pulled over and put in brake fluid (it was empty) and managed to get home. I have discovered that the brake line (it is metal) that runs from the front to the back is rusted out and the brake fluid is just pouring out of it. What is the part called? I spent about a half hour looking for that particular schematic on the ford parts web site but couldn't find any mention of that brake line. Here is a picture. There are 3 metal lines and one is leaking the brake fluid? Can I fix it in my driveway or should I have it towed somewhere?
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Is it normal to experience road vibrations in the pedal and floor? I've owned my car for about a month now (it's a used 2011) and it has brand new tires on it, but the past week or two it seems these road vibrations have worsened.. it's like I can feel the texture of the road on my feet. If I reach a freshly paved area it goes away like magic.
Is this indicative of a problem that I could have the dealer investigate? Or is this a "characteristic" of this car? I came from a 97 Corolla, with the exact same tires on it, and it did not have this problem at all. Then again, it was also much much quieter going over bumps too...
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My 20th Ann. Is jerking under acceleration. When I hit the gas pedal slightly hard it starts jerking. Every once in a while the CEL will flash on and off. I changed the spark plugs and coil packs, cleaned the MAF, and now I have no real direction where to go. Maybe it could be a vaccum problem...
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Trying to track down a vibration issue. Not steering. But, idling in gear and driving. I feel the vibration through the go pedal and floor board and seat on driver side.
Checked obvious points. Down pipe, complete exhaust system. Motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering.
Got to be some other spot I'm missing. Checked driveshafts. Everything seems OK.
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Toyota says the code is P0420 and the Catalytic Converter is rattling under heavy acceleration showing the Catalytic converter is bad and should be replaced. Toyota wants 2,334.00 which seems very high to me. Is it the Catalytic converter? The car is a 2004 Toyota Prius.
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I was driving in a heavy rain on Saturday and all of the sudden the proximity sensor just went off without anything even close proximity then the left blinker just went off by itself. I cut off the engine then restart couple of time but that didn't work. After 3 hours in the dealer, the mechanic still couldn't figure it out, they said they needed more time to trace the source of the problem. Electrical problem on my 13 RX350 FSport....
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When I go to start and depress the brake pedal it goes all the way to the floor. The brake fluid is at the full mark and my 2011 has only 25k miles. Where should I look since it did not go all the way to the floor when I forst got it with 6K miles.
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2013 Prius c Two, bought brand new with 15 miles on it 5 weeks ago. A few times when driving, I noticed the brakes seemed weak, like they weren't stopping the car very well even at low speeds (My driving is mostly in town on residential streets, so I'm rarely going over 35 MPH. Even so, I'd have to really mash the pedal all the way to the floor to get the car to come to a complete stop, otherwise it would keep moving forward. Several times I ended up about 5-10 feet past the line, sticking the front bumper into cross traffic. Luckily no one hit me. I chalked it up to the quirks of a different car than the one I was used to, and figured if it kept happening I'd take it to the dealership.
On Monday, my wife was stopped at a red light. The light turned green and the car in front of her started to move forward. After a few hundred feet, he suddenly slammed on his brakes. She said her brake pedal went all the way to the floor, and the Prius didn't slow down at all. She hit him going about 25-30 MPH and totaled the Prius. She's an excellent driver and I've been with her before when she's had to panic-stop. She's never driven a car without ABS, so she is used to pushing the pedal hard and keeping her foot on it. She wouldn't even know how to "pump" the pedal. She swears the pedal just went all the way to the floor and the car didn't slow down at all.
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I was going down the highway at 70mph and came up to a toll booth when the brake pedal went to the floor and the car wouldn't stop. I hit the pedal hard and the car stopped in a very jerky manner as if the abs was initiated. I looked at the dash and the ABS, (!), and brake lights were illuminated. I turned the car off and then on again and the lights were off and the brakes worked normally again.
The Toyota dealer in CT said the weak battery was causing an under-voltage at the stroke sensor and replaced the battery. They told me if I lost my brakes again (!) I should bring it back for a new stroke sensor. In hindsight, I should have just told them to go ahead and replace the sensor. Two days later, driving down Florida route 301 in the rain, a stoplight went from yellow to red in about 3 seconds so I hit the pedal hard. The back brakes immediately locked up, the front wheels kept rolling, the car swerved and slid through the red light intersection sideways.
I counter steered and slid between two cars at the other red light, on the wrong side of the road as I straightened out. The car swerved and slid sideways again in the other direction and then spun around so I finally wound up in the correct lane, and I drove off like nothing happened. I was doing maybe 35-40 at the time and it's a miracle no one got hurt. Again I look down and see the lights illuminated. I cycled the power switch as before, and again the problem went away.
About an hour later the problem came back and this time no amount of power cycling will clear it. Basically what I'm understanding now is that it's the regenerative side that doesn't work with the bad sensor. The hydraulics kick in at around the last 10% of the pedal so the car will still stop, but I have to floor the pedal and that makes the car think your trying to lock up the wheels so it initiates the ABS system which makes stopping jerky and unpredictable. BEWARE the stoke sensor!!! What a dangerous design!! The dealer has the car now...
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My truck is experiencing a hard to press brake pedal. It comes and goes and does not seem to happen at any one time while driving. I know that my truck uses a vacuum pump and instantly replaced this as I figured that with the age of the truck it should be done. However even with a new vacuum pump it did nothing to correct my problem with a hard to press brake pedal. I inspected all the lines to ensure that they are holding pressure and replaced two of the three with new lines. Again it still did nothing to correct the issue. I do not have any leakage coming from the master cylinder and no hiding noise from the brake booster.
1996 F250 7.3l Diesel Turbo 270,000 miles Manual Transmission
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My Hyundai Avante (2011 model 1.6) suddenly loses acceleration while my foot is still pressing on the gas pedal. Every time that happens I have to raise my foot from the gas pedal and press it again to make the car accelerate. This thing happens randomly, but mostly at speed lower than 80 Km/h
I tested the car on an empty road once; I didn't raise my foot from the gas pedal this time when the car lost acceleration. The car speed dropped to zero and the RPM gauge returned to idle (i.e. around 1000 RPM).
The check engine never light up during or even after this thing occurs. Here is the list of things the mechanic tried on my car:
1-Cleaned the body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used gas pedal
3-Check the fuel pressure and injection
4- Checked the sparks
5- Tested the car onboard computer.
None of the above worked!!! Here is the strange thing my mechanic discovered, if he unplugs the cable of the Anti-lock braking system in the car. The problem never occurs.
I have been driving the car for two weeks, with the ABS system unplugged. The loss of acceleration problem never happens. I am not sure what the ABS has got to do with the car acceleration.
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It has been there for about 6 months....i own a 3rd gen and i feel the steering bit heavy (actually not soft) to steer compared to other toyota models...the tire is 215 45 r17...can the steering tightness be adjusted technically at some point....
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