Prius (2010-12) :: Low Rev Cold Start With Delaying Engine Shutdown
Oct 15, 2015
My Prius is having a problem during cold start. When I bought it, the cold start was very energetic with a high rev tone then gradually regulate to a normal pace and petrol engine shuts down. But about 4 months I noticed the tone of the cold start has changed, it starts with a weak and low engine rev and delays to turn off the engine. Today it took about 10 mins to power off the engine. Got 2 months I changed my 12V battery (Bosch now), thought that these symptoms was to notify that battery is failing. But the problem is persistent despite I put new battery..
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I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
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So I had 1st rough cold start today on 2010 Prius with 72K. Wasn't too cold low 40s. The fix was to shut it down and then turn on again.
Engine sounded like it was working on 3 cylinders. It is probably ignition or perhaps valve train issue.. with ignition being prime suspect. If it happens again I'll pull and check plugs.
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I've had my 2010 Prius for about 3.5 years now and this is the 3rd maybe 4th time happening. This morning I started the car and the car started to vibrate/rattle from the engine bay. It almost sounded like the wheel of fortune being spun but louder.
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I set my charging time with the buttons in the car (dash) to charge from midnight to 3am. I plug in the car and the car will not charge until midnight. Perfect. I drive it. Then the next night I go to plug in the car and it starts charging right away.
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2010 w/ 16k miles
5 hrs after shutdown i head something running under the car,, was louder under the car vs listening thru the inside,,, sounded like a fuel pump or small fan.
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Since the weather has dropped a little I was wondering if it's normal that the car sitting on in the drive way, on, would idle up a little just before shut down. I mean shutdown to use the battery not shut down turn the car off. It idles fine for the warm up stage then just before it shuts down to be available for ev mode it spins up a little.
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I have a 2010 IV and after driving for an extended period and then shutting the car off I get a loud noise about a minute or a little more after shutdown. The best I can describe it is that it sounds like someone is dropping a 3 pound dead chicken from about 10 feet up onto my hood. It is consistent and is not any of the whirring or buzzing noises I normally hear. I also have a 2009 Touring and have never heard anything like this.
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I have a Gen III Prius 2010 with about 50k on it. I've noticed over the past month that when the ICE shuts down at a stoplight, the car will surge forward a bit. If my foot isn't on the brake really hard, it will translate to the car actually moving forward until the ICE is totally off. If my foot is on the brake hard, you can feel it push against the brakes, and then the car settles back in place. It doesn't happen every time, so it still takes me by surprise.
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I went to a local oil change place on Tuesday morning for an oil change. Had them change the air filter (engine and cabin) at the same time. The odometer is at about 165k on my 2006 base model Prius. When the job was completed and I pushed the power button, Christmas tree. Giant red triangle of death, check engine, and the display picture with the "!" in the middle. Can't put it into gear. Engine runs briefly and cuts out. Maybe they tripped a wire when they changed the filter? Nope, all was good there. Silly little tech put it on his code reading machine to no avail.
I called the local Toyota dealership that I hate and don't use and they gave the oil change guy instructions to jump it. No dice. So I leave it in the bay and call a tow truck. Towing guy figures out how to get it into neutral and puts it on his truck to take to local hated dealership (mistake). Long day of fighting with oil change place, followed by super star service from larger dealership in Austin (60 miles away) with the service rep I always use. He diagnosed the likely problem over the phone. I didn't even let local hated dealership do the diagnostics. I put that little Prius baby on a flatbed and took her to Austin.
Well, the codes pulled were P0A0F (engine failed to start) and P3190 (poor engine power). Well, that is the magic combination along with the experience of my service rep and tech to confirm that too much oil was added. It's was about a half of a quart. Crazy, right? Well, they cleaned the throttle body, interior of intake manifold of oil residue and all is well again. The big battery was completely dead so the dealership charged it up for me.
Next morning I pick it up and big battery is charged about halfway. Not sure if they completely charged it the night before. However, by the time I got to work (maybe 5 miles), battery indicator was full (green). I had an oddity when I had a longer stop light idle later that afternoon where the battery went from 4 blue bars down to purple, but drove the 60 miles back home and today the charge seems to be fine (4-5 blue bars). I have a sneaking suspicion that there may be more issues, but for now all is well. I'm going to get the 12V battery changed soon because we're still riding on the original.
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This is something I have noticed the last 3 months. I have had the car 2 years. When I first start it and it is completely cold, it will only run like EV mode (HV battery powering the car) even though the gas engine is merrily running and it is not in EV. We live part way down a small hill, so now I often discharge the HV battery to a point low enough to trigger the recharge function which keeps the gas engine running forever. It does this morning or afternoon, if it has been sitting a few hours and is completely cooled off. It did it in Sept. at 65F and it does it now at 35F.
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Why I'm suddenly having trouble starting my 2010 Prius when cold? I depress the brake and push the start button, but lately, sometimes the car doesn't start. It will start as if I didn't have my foot on the brake and the dash will light up. To get it to start fully I have to depress the brake and hold the start button down for 10-20 seconds. Then it starts.
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Here is the link : [URL] .....
Someone with a similar problem said it was a timing chain cover issue and someone else a cam shaft issue. It's a 2012 elantra limited 1.8L with 55000km the short block was replaced around 45000km.
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I have always wondered how I should drive from a cold start.
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My remote starter didn't want to start the car this morning. It's been working fine up until today when the temperature dropped to 5-F last night. I sat in the car and used the remote start to see what was going on, and it fired up the motor for a second or so, then it shut down again right away. My in-car test was the 3rd start attempt.. When I pushed the in-dash start button, the car started just fine..
Any insights as to why the remote starter doesn't seem to like the cold? The entire reason I purchased that option was to avoid going outside when it was that cold.. and if that's when it doesn't work....
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I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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We have had a few mornings (in garage) where it would seem to not really id say a knock but maybe a clicking sound and it would quit right away. This morning that did not happen so i shut the car off and checked oil it was low.
Got under the car and can not see any leaking no oil on ground. So i had a QT i put in and that seems to quiet it after a few seconds.
I called local TOY dealer and they said its common for 2010 to use some oil and not much they can do. I thought what is a little it was at the end of the dipstick.
They said they can only fill it up and then have me come back in 1400 miles and see how much is used.
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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I just purchased a 2010 RX 350, has only 7k miles on it. Really, really nice car. I noticed for the first time yesterday the engine ticking/knocking/rattling/whatever you want to call it sound when starting up on a cold start. It definitely goes away after about 5-10 minutes of running.
Most people seem to accept this as "normal". They hear it, live with it, and they never have any problems. I am a new Lexus owner, so I have trouble digesting that such a luxury vehicle with so few miles would have a "normal" engine knocking sound at 7,000 miles.
A few people posted in other places that this is indeed an issue, and should not be happening. There is a a Toyota (Lexus) service bulletin that I didn't get the details on, it is LSB-0028-09. LEXUS: ENGINE TICKING NOISE AND/OR MIL ON P0014, P0015, P0024, P0025, P0017, OR P0018. ENGINE MECHANICAL. *PE
Looking for details on this service bulletin, and if it does indeed apply to the engine knocking sound.
- Premium gas
- High viscosity cold synthetic oil
- Dealer fixes issue
- Other fix?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. A few months ago the Short Block was replaced because the engine was noisy. Now it started to do that noise, if I remember it's a little bit similar : Youtube video: [URL] .... Or search youtube for: Hyundai elantra 2012 engine rattle noise
It rattled very loud for 1 or 2 seconds on a cold start the other day too. Noise appears to be coming from the engine. It does it pretty much all the time, at idling, when I accelerate it accelerates too and when I slow down it kinds of do too slowly. Need another new short block or is it something else like the timing chain or a bearing?
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It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
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