Prius (Gen 2) :: 2004 Won't Accelerate And Shuts Down After One Hour Of Freeway Speed
Jun 3, 2015
After one hour of freeway speed (60-80) the car slows down to a stop and red !triangle! light comes on. After coasting to the shoulder and waiting 10 minutes, car restarts. This has happened 3 times in the last two months (very frightening, but luckily it was light traffic). Dealer says 'no codes' and that there is nothing to fix!!!! What now? I can't drive a car that could lose power at any moment. Big safety issue....
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My 2004 Pontiac Bonneville has this problem sometimes when I start it up in the rain, if I start it up in the morning. It will sputter while I am in drive or reverse, and driving below 40 MPH. When I hit 40, it goes away and then will come back when I slow down or stop. It usually goes away after 20-30 minutes of driving.
This never happens when it's dry. My car runs smooth and normally when it's dry. When I took it into the shop, they could not find a problem.
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On my way home today my Automatic 2003 Mazda Protege started revving irregularly high for just a second while traveling on the freeway around 60 miles an hour. It would fluctuate between 2.5 and 3 RPMs and then jump to 4 then drop again seeming to loose torque. It seemed to become more frequent as i continued home. Happening every two to three minutes or so not necessarily when traveling up hills. Should i be worried about driving my car?
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I have a 2004 chevy malibu LT V6. Got it in 2009 from a dealership near where I live. During the road test I did not notice the vibration, may be because I did not drive it on a freeway. Point to be noted that it came with 2 brand new front tires. I called the dealership and they did balanced the wheels for free of charge. But the problem did not go away. This time I took my car to pepboys for wheel balancing. It is better now but I still feel the vibration on the wheel @ the speed of 60 or over. I have done wheel balancing and replaced back tires. Problem still remains. I own some other cars and they don't have this issue.
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I have narrowed down my starting issue to a faulty relay(409). When I pulled the relay and cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the pump primed and the car started. Car will idle for about a 1/2 hour and out of the blue it shuts off. If I try to restart, 9 times out of 10 it does not start. If i tap the relay, it starts right up. If the car is running and I tap on the relay the car stutters and if I tap it again it shuts off.
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This happens not all the time, can cold start and the car runs fine but then once its shut off then started for use again later it will shut down, sit on roadside for 2 minutes with key off and then restart and good to go again...its a random thing...the check engine light does come on...
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I own a 1986 Chevy Silverado C10. I have replaced much of the truck in the seven years i have owned it, including the engine about 35,000 miles ago. The modulator valve on the transmission became unbolted from the transmission housing a while back (the "tab" of the transmission housing actually cracked off). The truck lost power when this happened and most of the transmission fluid leaked out before i realized something was wrong , stopped and called a tow.
I replaced the modulator and secured it with a "Z" shaped clip made of roughly 10 gauge steel that bolts to the modulator and then to the frame that suspends the transmission. Then i noticed a loss of power up hill and the truck has trouble accelerating over 45-50 mph., possibly has trouble shifting into over drive "?".
I replaced the detent cable next, and changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket while i was at it. I have also replaced plugs and wires, and done a general tune up since then, but i still have trouble on hills and accelerating on the highway. I drive up a hill every day coming home from work and the truck slows to roughly 25mph, even if i start the hill at 45mph., and it climbs slow and seems very bogged down. Something to check before i assume the transmission needs replaced.
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I know with the regular Prius it was accelerate briskly to speed. but just what is "briskly" ? for some it could be at the rate of zero to 60 in 3 seconds, other it would be 20 seconds. So what would be the best rate of acceleration for the C to get best mileage? how about best acceleration to speed, say 50 mph, and still get good mpg without pissing off the rest of the road?
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My Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
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About 20 minutes ago I started up the car and the screen indicated the main battery was pretty much empty. And hour before I had pulled into my driveway and the battery had indicated maybe 70%+. The car was off, nothing like headlights or anything I know of was left on.
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Driving home last night I noticed this strange noise coming from the back seat area. not very loud, just a faint electrical motor sound emitting from the passenger rear side of the vehicle. It was strange as in i've never heard it before, I eventually narrowed it down to what I think is the battery fan. When i stopped and got out with the car still running i went to the back seat and listened under the seat and could hear the fan running.
What I thought was strange though was the noise when driving. I would only hear it at speeds above 20 km/h. When I would pull up to a stop and slowed below 20 the noise would switch off, no change in pitch, it would just stop. Then when I would accelerate above 20 the noise would "switch on again". I was only driving through an urban area at the time so never got speed up to anything faster than 50kmh. I'm used to the typical regen braking noise, inverter whine, brake popping noises, etc but this one has me a little worried as it was a new sound and it was coming from the battery area.
I do live in a very hilly area with lots of short steep hills that usually gives me full bars on the battery at least once a day. Also rush hour traffic can be horrendous around here which can bring the battery down to 2 or 3 bars sometimes.
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3 months ago, my 2003 C240 Mercedes made a high pitched whine and would not accelerate more than 15 miles per hour and if I did go faster the whine got louder and higher in pitch. I took it to the local “foreign car” auto shop (I have had the car serviced there in the past) and they replaced what I believe that said was a “contact plate” something that controls the transmission is what I think I remember. Yesterday (just 3 months later) the exact same issue is occurring. Again I had it towed back to the auto shop and now they tell me the transmission is shot and they will need to replace it. They added it has nothing to do with the plate they replaced/installed 3month ago and they will give me a credit on the plate that installed 3 months ago. Are they correct?
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2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
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Today on the freeway going about 60 mph, my 2009 Corolla started to jerk and feel like it was going to stop. It lasted for a few minutes and then on my way home, there was no problem. I was told that this could be from not driving on the freeway enough? Do I need to have it looked at?
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2011 Elantra 86k ... Ever since I bought my car in 2013 I noticed when I would accelerate on the freeway, my battery light would flick on for a second, then go away when I would let off the pedal. Not every time, though which made me not think much of it. well recently my car would die if I left it sitting for a day. I assumed it was the battery so I got a new one. everything was fine until I woke up one morning and my car was dead again. so I looked up my problem online and nearly everywhere said it was probably because of a bad alternator, which also explained why the battery light would come on when I accelerated. so I took it to a mechanic and he tested it and said it was testing low. So 425 dollars later it was fixed. Haven't seen the battery light come on when I accelerate anymore.
This morning around 6am my neighbor texted me and said my tail lights and head lights were on. this is impossible because we had been out front last night and we would have noticed this then and I didn't drive anywhere else after that. Why would my lights be coming on by themselves? I've already spent 180 on a new battery and 425 on a new alternator and this whole time it was because my lights had been turning on by themselves??
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I have a 2010 Prius and have been driving several for the past 7 years.Yesterday, I was driving on the Expressway at 60 mph and all of a sudden I was momentarily stuck at 60 as if I was in Cruise control which I wasn't. Gradually, I was unable to accelerate when I pressed down on the pedal, lost speed and cruised over to the side of the road as if I was out of gas which I wasn't. I shut the engine off, waited a minute and started up again. I continued on my journey without a problem. When I reached my destination I shut down the engine and re started 4 hrs later and drove home 120 miles without a problem. What is the cause of this and is it still under warranty. I have 50,000 miles on the vehicle. May I add, this is the first problem ever encountered.
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I just bought a 2007 Prius a couple of days ago and noticed on my drive home the first day after purchase that the A/C got hot when I was accelerating onto the freeway and remained hot for a couple of minutes after that. I turned it off then turned it back on, and it blew cold air for a couple of minutes, then settled on a "cool-but-not-cold" middle ground. When I test drove the vehicle, I ran the A/C, but since it wasn't overly warm, I didn't notice that the car struggles to reach "cold" and mostly blows only "cool" air.
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Driving on the freeway over 50 miles per hour the car dies goes really slow goes down to 30 miles per hour almost no power....
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A Rain-X wiper flew off on the freeway today.
It's the correct fit for my 2005 Prius, a
Rain-X 5079281 Latitude 8-In-1 Premium Graphite Coated Wiper Blade, 26"
Any tricks for keeping them on? It seems they might not hold on as well as one would like. (Can't examine it though, it's now freeway debris.)
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While going a steady speed, my speedometer will fluctuate up and down around 3 miles per hour. It will happen at any speed.
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I've got a 2007 Touring with 40k miles on it. Never had any issues until about 2k miles ago, when we started noticing noise while driving on the freeway. The higher the speed, the louder the noise. It starts to be noticeable at about 40mph and gets really annoying at 65 - 75mph. It seemed to come from the RH-side, and the dealer was quick to blame it on out-of-alignment tires. Dealer 'investigation' was about 2k miles ago.
We've changed and aligned the tires this week; alignment on all four corners was almost within tolerances (off by a small amount). I've also changed the oil, since it was due.
Nevertheless, the noise is still there; now it seems to have 'moved' directly in front of the driver. What could it be?
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