Prius (Gen 2) :: Charging Voltage (READY Mode) Constant Or Varying?
Sep 16, 2010
The few times I monitored the 12V charging voltage with ScanGauge during driving it has been very stable at 14.0 ~ 14.1V for almost one hour worth of commuting time. Someone from another board commented that his charging voltage varies up and down and he suspects the charging voltage adjusts itself depending on the 12V battery SOC, and thus my battery may be so weak to require continuous charging at 14V.
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As the weather has gotten colder (32F +/-2F in the morning), my car is not going into ready mode as consistently as it was in warmer months. I also notice that I have a much better chance of success of going into ready mode if I let the car "pressurize" for about 10 seconds prior to pressing the power button (pressurizing = whatever is going on when you open the driver door and you hear the electric noise of something working (brake pressurization) in the front of the car that runs for about 10 seconds).
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I have a 2004 prius that sat for 2 years, I just replace a cell, worked on the HV battery and made sure it was balanced. I got the battery back in and I can't get it to go into Ready mode, I can get it to ignition on and charge the battery and into acc. I've checked several components to see if they were causing the issue.
- 12v battery is good
- brake light switch seems to be good as the lights come on when the brake pedal is pressed (but ready mode does not)
- I've checked a number of fuses
- used and obd2 adapter with torque and it is not coming up with any codes
-Edit-
- 12v battery was replaced last spring and has been maintained
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Basically, every once in a while the car refuses to go into "Ready" mode - it acts like you are trying to start it with your foot off the brake. Appears to be getting worse over time. Happens at least once a week. Yesterday I probably tried to start it 30 times before it finally took. Once it gets going it is fine, and often it will start right back up several times before it starts acting up again. No rhyme or reason to it.
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When I put the car in ready, the car will beep 3 times. It's like, foot on brake and press start button, then car shows ready, at the same time it goes chirp-chirp, then beep beep beep. I'm just wondering if the 3 beeps can be turned off? I didn't find any thread regarding this beep. I did find many about turning off the seat belt beep, reverse beep, etc. and I already turned off those beeps.
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My 2005 Prius won't go into READY mode. This has been happening for many times now almost a month. Up until today if I let it sit there for a while (sometimes a couple of hours) it would work eventually, however, starting today it just does not want to go into READY mode. One thing that I have noticed is that when I press the brake pedal the brake lights do not turn on. I have been suggested that it could be the Stop Light Switch that causes it, and one way to check was to perform the following procedure:
(1) Push the P position switch.
(2) Parking brake pedal is depressed.
(3) Turn the power switch from off to on (ACC)
(4) Brake pedal is depressed.
(5) Press and hold the power switch for 15 seconds or more.
According to Vincent if this starts the car then it is the Stop Light Switch but I was not able to start my car even with this procedure (may be I am doing it wrong.
Note: I have checked the 12V battery and it is not the problem.
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I measured battery on my 2007 Prius by MDF, it's only 11.9V, charging is about 14V. When I turn on ACC mode, and Radio is on, I think it shut down the radio after about 15minutes; I cannot put the car in ready mode after it shut down. I have to jump it in order to put in ready mode. Is it my turn to replace this auxiliary battery?
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When I backed up yesterday, some dash symbols showed up. After turning off the car, I am not able to get it in Ready Mode. Only solution so far: to disconnect the 12V battery and wait approx. 2-3 minutes. After that, the lights are off. The 12v battery does also indicates normal voltage. IG-OFF: 12.7V IG-ON 12.2 ... Unfortunately I cannot get the trouble codes with my scan tool ...
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I am still getting used to my new Prius, just have a little over 700 miles on it. I recently noticed something very strange with the car - if I am in "Ready" with ICE off, and I put it in drive and release the brakes, but do not press the accelerator, the car will slowly move forward, just like a regular auto transmission. After about 1 second the speed will reach about 2 mph and I can feel a very small rumble in the cabin and a very light vibration on the steering wheel. It sounds like a very low frequency bass, and it lasts for less than a second.
It goes away and the car continues to accelerate up to about 5mph (the accelerator is still not pressed). This sound is almost unnoticeable, and it does not happen if I release the brake and immediately press the accelerator, it only happens while creeping forward very slowly. I was able to make this sound/vibration last longer by "riding" the breaks and keeping the speed around 1-2 mph, it is very faint and I have really listen to it. To me I believe it is caused by some resonance/harmonics in MG2 turning at extremely low RPM, at least it "feels" somewhat "electric"...
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I used to fill up with gas without shutting the car down, because I didn't see a need for it. I would disable the fan on the climate control every time to avoid having the ice come on as I refueled. I figured that because the ice wasn't coming on, I wasn't breaking the law. I've since changed my mind about this, after reading posts here on Prius Chat. I also recently noticed on the last few fillups that it seems like the gas capacity on the bladder has decreased significantly.
I used to be able to refuel the car when it was down to a single flashing pip and put 10.5 gallons in with no problem, and without overfilling. I have always been careful not to overfill. However, it seems like now I can get only 8 gallons in at the most. The capacity has decreased with the colder weather, however I used to be able to get 10 gallons in on a consistent basis without overfilling even during the winter.
Is this reduced bladder capacity a result of damage to the system, or is this normal? I have probably filled the car up about 100 times since I've owned it (odometer is around 50K now) while remaining in the ready mode.
Is there anything I can do to expand the capacity of the bladder back to normal, or will I have to live with this? Although it's annoying, I'm not going to spend the money to replace the fuel tank unless it's truly necessary.
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My Prius IV with about 10K miles started to emit a high-pitched electrical humming sound under the hood when it was in Ready mode. It did not have this sound before. I opened the hood and found the sound was coming from somewhere around/under the engine area. I want to know if this is normal on Gen 3 Prius? I have seen post on the same noise in Gen 2 Prius but the posts (thread) stopped without a resolution.
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Prius Five 2012 fully loaded in Blizzard Pearl. A/C keep changing mode from face/head only to feet every 2-3 minutes on its own. Auto button light is off and this continues..... I've stumped all the dealers, no one has a fix.
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I have a problem with my 2002 Prius when I was driving down the highway the master warning light came on with a warning display screen appearing saying that there is a problem in the Hybrid System and then the car went into shut down mode. I had it towed to the dealer for diagnosis and an estimate. The codes read were P3000, P3004, P3125, and P3009 they did not tell me the sub-codes read. Their diagnosis was the inverter needed to be replaced. The Main battery on this car had been replacing at 140,000 and there has not been a problem since the car has been well taken care of throughout its life. Being new to working on hybrids but not cars and electronics I figured I could replace it cheaper than the dealer price of $4200. With the age of the car and high miles 175,000 I figured it would not be worth the new part price so I got a guaranteed used inverter. After replacing the inverter I still got the same problem with no change.
So I decided I would have to diagnose it myself. The car starts and runs fine and starts charging the battery right away as normal but if try to but it in reverse or drive it fails so that means the short would have to be in the transaxle. I decided to test MG1 and MG2 for shorts and I figured I would need to use a megger to do this but I did not all three winding on MG2 test shorted to ground on the 200-ohm scale on a regular ohm meter. Then after closer inspection of MG2 cables, you can see a coating of corrosion running up all three cables. So the question I have is this corrosion on the cables a common problem for 1st gen and could it be possibly just a cable issue and not MG2 and can the cables be replaced without dropping the engine and transaxle???
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Heading out on 4 week 3k mile road trip. Have 12v adaptors for a very efficient laptop and smartphone.
It seems that in "Accessory" mode the PIP is using only the dinky 12V battery so this is not a healthy solution. Is there a recommended strategy to put the car in semi-ready mode and reduce all possible drain so that utilizing the 12V will not be draining the traction battery reserves much at all?
I'm thinking that perhaps trying to put the car in "ready" mode with the FOOT OFF the brake indeed fires up access to the traction battery without firing up other things that require the full power monty that Ready mode with the FOOT ON the brake requires. Seems to me the PIP is a great mobile office solution if we could gain access to traction battery reserves without running much else.
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Curiosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
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My 2006 V8 sat for about 5 days last week. It started but apparently was flashing all kinds of low voltage alarms (according to my daughter, I was out of town)... She moved it aside and used another car... I charged the battery and cleared codes with the VCDS but within a day the battery was flat again. Battery test recommended replacing battery so I put a brand new battery in on Wednesday. We took the car on a trip of some 300 miles with no problems at all on Thursday, I drove the car Friday and Saturday with no indication of any problems (voltmeter in dash always sitting at 14+ volts, no messages or indications of any problems). Today (Sunday) battery is way flat again; my intelligent charger indicates 100% charge but just over 6 volts in the battery, and, based on the 100 % charge indications, stops charging and goes into Maintainer mode. My battery tester confirms the ~6 volts and recommends replacing the (brand new !) battery.
The battery management controller is: 3D0 915 181 D this being a 2006 should have the "updated" controller...
The car, suppose it is possible that this brand new battery is faulty but I believe it is much more likely something has gone haywire with the Phaeton...
Something is draining the battery after the car off and locked (I was alerted to look at the car because the lock lights on the door sill were no longer flashing).
If I can't charge up the battery to 12 volts yet another battery is indicated !?
In reading about battery problems I have never seen a suggestion on a particular device that fails ON and causes such a severe drain...
If the battery is in fact not being charged by the alternator how would this be checked ?
When I noticed no flashing lock lights on the car my first action was to disconnect the left (accessory) battery by taking off the negative lead. I then connected the charger which gave the indication of 100% charge but only 6 volts, and wouldn't charge beyond this. I disconnected the charger and connected the battery tester, which confirmed the 6 volt reading and recommended a new battery. I had to move the car as it was blocking other cars; I reconnected the battery and started the car by turning key to the left and back to the right, it started with "please start the engine" and a "level system fault" as expected, I could hear the switching relay in the trunk going on and off as expected, and I moved the car, left it running for a few minutes to move other cars, and parked it. I again removed the negative lead of the left hand battery and reconnected the charger. The "intelligent" charger now read 11.8 volts or so and a 16 % charge level, more reasonable but totally confusing as to why it changed. I disconnected the charger and used the battery tester which also read about 11.8 volts and, good news I guess, rated the battery OK. Right now the charger is reconnected and we'll see if it will bring the battery up to 12 volts and 100% charge...
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After clearing my 2013 Avalon today, which took about 2 hours to complete, I attempted to start the car and it would/will not turn over. I waited a bit and attempted again, same result. The battery appears to be fine, all the lights and the console are working, power windows, etc. The heads up display had this message: "Check Charging System" I have check the owners manual and read something about the car being in Accessory mode. Another item referred to the fuel system being disable. None of these examples make sense.
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After not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
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Ever since I put in my stage 2 BFI mounts I've had pretty bad vibration at 2800rpm. After over 5,000 miles, these are the symptoms:
Some times are worse than others. I will be cruising at 2800rpm and my dash will be rattling. If I lift off the throttle and re-apply it, the vibration could lessen and stop dash rattling. I think once I hit a bump while maintaining 2800 and the vibration became less severe, almost as if the bump "sync'd" whatever was vibrating.Seems to be worst when engine braking. Causes dimple dash to rattle loudly against front dash area and rear view mirror shakes...vibrates when the car is in gear or in neutral
I'm leaning towards flywheel based on what I've read. Before I replace clutch/flywheel, what could be causing it?
Also curious what labor might cost on clutch/flywheel replacement, and if the "shim" kit thing is necessary to do for a stock setup. The shop is recommending machining something in there to fix the play issues with 02m?
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Air Conditioner Blower Motor on any speed, lets say high. Running fine while driving. Come to a stop at idle or shift to N or P. A few seconds later the blower begins to vary its speed in pulsating rhythm in what would seem to be in cadence with what would be a rough or varying idle. Where to start? Is it the relay?
2002 BMW 330ci Convertible
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Granddaughter showed up with her '02 Accent idle varying between 600 and 2500 rpm. Disconnected Idle Speed Control Actuator and engine runs at very high idle so apparently the ECM is unsuccessfully attempting to manage the idle and the ISC is functioning. Reading P0507 code. Checked for vacuum leaks beyond throttle body, found none.
The car was involved in a fender bender accident a couple days before the idle issue. No CEL until a couple days after the accident. The varying idle started many days after the CEL.
The wreak cut a half dozen wires in the area outside of the battery. She repaired them and I just finished redoing with solder and shrink wrap. Found no faults with her twist and tape repairs or any other damage to wiring. Varying idle still there.
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