Prius (Gen 3) :: 2010 - Four Times Failed To Go Into Gear / Motor Rev When Press Gas Pedal
May 9, 2010
I have had my new 2010 Prius for 1 1/2 months, and four times it has failed to go into gear. I depress the brake fully, and push the power button. After the ready light comes on, with the brake fully depressed, I put it into drive, and nothing happens (the display does not indicate Drive and the car doesn't move). It also wont go into R or B. If I press gas pedal, there is no revving of the motor. Pressing park makes no difference either. I try repeatedly for less than a minute. What always works is to shut off the car and start again. It happens when the car is cold or warm.
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I am looking to buy a 2012 Prius and I test drove it. Everything seems ok except each time I press the brake pedal there is a swoosh noise its as if air is being released from somewhere and I can easily hear it. Is this normal? the car is 95000 km on it. The dealer says it might be a normal hybrid noise. I currently have a 2007 Prius but that does not make this noise.
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I have a 2010 Prius Hybrid and lately, on an intermittent basis, I will press the brake pedal and push the start button and the dashboard lights up as normal but when I go to put it in gear nothing happens. The last time it happened the fan was running and I couldn't turn it off. It's like the car is all set to go but all the interior controls don't function. I then shut it off and restart it and everything works.
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I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
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i have a 2013 golf r with about 2k miles. Say if I am in second gear and i kinda press the pedal a little harder then i usually do, i hear a weird noise. kinda sounding like a fake exhaust sound or some sort of vibration near where the e brake is. when i let go of the pedal the noise goes away. I know my description is terrible but its honestly a strange noise.
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Is there anyway to disable this annoying "press brake pedal to start" on the 2010 with Vag Com or some other magic tricks? I searched and found a thread but no solution if there is any.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 2010 LE. When I'm driving, no matter how fast I drive, I feel a vibration sound. When I press brake pedal, it's worse than driving. I recently replaced front rotors and brake pads. I also replaced whole tires a month ago.
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Is it all the lexus rx350 had that noise? From the day I noticed hissing noise when I gentally press the brake pedal down and release it . And same noise can be heard when drive slowly and release gas pedal.
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My friend got her front brakes and rotors replaced a few days ago and now the brake pedal is vibrating at various times. It happens when slowing down and at a complete stop. Sounds like the ABS is kicking in to me, BUT is also does it sometimes when driving at low speeds (under 40mph) without pressing the brake pedal. No loud clicking noises, just a quick steady vibration felt at the brake pedal/flooboard.
The service was not done at Hyundai dealership. She is out of town at the moment so we haven't had a chance to take it to the shop yet. She called, they played dumb apparently. I don't know enough about Hyundais to diagnose.
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I can press on the brake pedal when car is off or on and there is a kind of quirky sound made. I can hear a pump sound and then a squeaking or quirky sound. It happens every time I press the pedal when it is stopped, either on or off.
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I've a UK 2004 gen ii with 69000 miles on the clock. When coming to a stop and also when at a stand still if I press down the brake pedal I get a rather loud creaking sort of noise. I guess that's friction brake related as no noise with using brakes when driving. Also a high pitch squeal when driving and turning steering wheel slightly to the left that stops when you press the brake pedal.
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I've had this happen twice: I'm stopped at a light (on relatively level ground--only slight incline). My gas engine kicks off. OK, fine. As it should. But then it comes on again, maybe a second or two or maybe three or four later, while I'm still stopped. First time, it did this a few times back and forth, all while stopped, waiting for the light.
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Today, for the first time, my 2007 CRV suddenly failed to respond to an acceleration attempt after I had to suddenly press on the brake on a highway. Both meters seemed to respond and moved in some way but the car was either non-responsive or was slowing down. It all took 30-60 seconds until the car went back to normal on its own without even stopping. What could have caused it? Normally, I would probably wait until it happens again to start worrying but since I drive with my child most of the time, I don't want to take any chances.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius. When I press the brake pedal and press the start button the engine does not start or the wheels are not powered by the battery. It gives me the following errors:
The indicator in the Start button lights in Amber Color.
0 kmph mark is not activated in the dash board pannel.
When I shift the gears it only shifts to neutral ("N") gear.
I cant move the car forward or backward. An error message is displayed in the MFD in Japanese language. It is in Japanese and I cant read the error message.
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A/C in my 2015 ES350 (25K miles) has failed 2 times.
1. Outside temp 92 Deg. I start the car and turn on the A/C. It is pumping hot air. I wait 5 min. It is still pumping hot air. I switch it off and start again. It pumps cold air.
2. Outside temp 94 Deg. I start the car and turn on the A/C. It is pumping hot air. I turn it off and on. No luck continued to pump hot air. Next morning out side temp 77 Deg. I start the A/C works fine.
I took it to the dealer. He says unless he can see the failure he cannot do any thing.
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My prius gen 3 battery failed at 150000km and the other prius gen3 in my city battery failed between 130000 and 180000 km.
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The scenario: I recently filled up at a station that, according to the attendant, had just lost electrical power but power had been restored. The pump was flowing agonizingly slowly, so I asked the attendant what was up, and he said the system needed 20 minutes or so to reboot before the pumps would flow at the normal rate--sounds kind of specious to me, but I was in no hurry, so I figured so what, I'd wait it out.
Well, eventually the tank filled up, and then some. The pump's auto-shutoff failed to work (my guess is that the flow rate was so slow that the back pressure failed to build up to the point to trigger it, but, whatever...). Gas was dripping everywhere by the time I noticed it (since it was taking so long, I wasn't paying close attention).
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I've been having an issue with my hatch not opening the first several times I press the unlock button on the remote. For reference it's the car door unlock button I'm pressing, not the hatch one as that one has never done anything when I've pressed it.
I thought it was due to the faulty rear view camera I had installed (the emblem pops out) but I just got a new one installed 2 days ago and it's doing the same thing. It's gotten so bad I've had to go open the drivers door and press unlock from inside there to get it open.
I'm wondering if there is a problem with the latch getting stuck or something. I've never had it not close all the way or anything like that which I hear is more common than the issue I'm having. I will take a pic of the pin in the trunk that I'm talking about.
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I just noticed if I turn off the car without putting it in park it would do it automatically. Is that safe or do you always put it in park first?
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I've got a cheap little ELM327 dongle that I was able to use to fix the dreaded backup beep on my 2013 Trim 2. What I'm looking for now are the codes to change the keyfob function so that the first press of the unlock button hits all the doors and the hatch - currently it just unlocks the driver door. (note: this is distinct from the number of doors that unlock when I touch the driver handle - I am aware of the "press both buttons" trick for that).
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Recently, when I ever press the brake while the head light or three AC is on, an error message appear for a few seconds ark malfunction.
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