After turning off the stooooopid inside-cabin reverse gear beep alarm two months ago, I was worried about the silence of my PiP while backing up in crowded parking lots, etc. Searching for a piezo-electric add-on backup beeper audible behind thater than in the PiP, I found this site:
View 5 RepliesIt was such a nice day today that I popped the Sunroof open on my shinny new 2013 Prius which I haven't had a chance to do until today. When I parked the Prius and opened the door to get out, I heard a 'single beep' sound. Confused and not knowing exactly what that 'single beep' was intended for, I proceeded out of the Prius and touched the button to lock the doors. But due to my absentmindedness, I then noticed that I had left the Sunroof 'OPEN'.
However, I couldn't believe that the doors actually locked and the Prius didn't do any other kind of additional alarming with the Sunroof left open. So, I presume that this 'one single beep' I heard when I opened the door was intended to inform me that the Sunroof was left open. It's a good thing that I wasn't in a hurry today and noticed it because I didn't know what that single beep was meant for.
Turn off the backing up beep in the Toyota Prius?
View 17 RepliesI need to disconnect the beep when backing up the Prius. How to do this.
View 1 RepliesI have to say that I was very worried when I did this. I downloaded the app, it scanned the car, took me to the Carita pro for 20 dollars link.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B. It is a great car, and I am very happy with it. However, it is making this noise and no one can figure out what it is. I have taken it to the dealership three times and the never hear the noise, and they can't find anything wrong.
The noise occurs mostly in parking lots at parking lot speeds. When I got over rough pavement or speed bumps, I get a clunking noise in the front drivers side wheel well. It sounds as if something is broken or loose at the top of the strut, right at the top of the strut tower. I do not hear the noise on smooth roads or at highway speeds. I can get it to happen in certain parking lots, but the dealer would not go to those places.
Recently I started to get another noise out of the same area. When I back down my driveway (slight down hill grade) and I get towards the bottom, I turn the steering wheel clockwise almost all the way so that I back to the right and can pull out to the left. When I get to the bottom at full turn, I hear a loud clunk and I can feel the car shift around a bit. I can repeat this over and over by pulling back in and then backing out again. It only does it when I back up to the right, not to the left. Today, It did it again but I was on a flat surface, which I had not noticed before. I backed to the right, turned the wheels fully to the right, and it clunks. It also clunked two more times when I shifted into first and started to pull forward out of the turn, almost like it was hanging up on something.
The dealer looked at the car three times. The last time they replaced the stabilizer bar links and bushings, but it made no difference. They say everything is tight and looks normal with no leaks. I am thinking it is either a front axle or front strut that is bad, but they can't confirm. The struts are really expensive on this car, so I don't want to replace them on a whim.
Important details: This is a 6 speed manual car. Turbo 2.5L boxer 4. AWD, with 68K miles. Issue was first noticed about August 2011, seems to be getting worse recently.
What this could be. I love this car, as it is a monster in the snow, which will be flying soon, and I really don't want to be driving with something broken.
Ok had my driver side front cv axle replaced. But not when only backing up and turning I hear and feel a popping sound. Happens when I turn left or right while backing out of garage or parking spot.
View 1 RepliesWhen I lock my doors my factory alarm no longer beeps to acknowledge it is set. If I hit the panic button the flashers flash, but there is no sound.
Previously I would have to open and shut the hatch on my car periodically to get the alarm to beep, but that no longer works. I checked the central locking fuses and the alarm fuses (two 15v's buried under covers above all the relays). Those are fine.
If it were just the beep no working after locking the doors I would guess the hatch switch, but there's no sound from the alarm on panic (and the horn works fine).
I took delivery of my new prius a few weeks ago and of course played around with the parking assist. However in the last few days when I press the button to start the process I simply get a double beep and nothing more happens.
I called the dealer and they don't seem to know what it is and so have booked me in to take a look at it.
My DD just developed a head gasket leak. I've been noticing a coolant smell for a few days and today saw lots of white smoke from the tail pipe. I figured this is where my coolant was going and sure enough there is coolant coming from the driver's side head. I've ordered the gaskets and new bolts, but need the install.
I think mostly what I will need is the intake and head bolt torque and sequence. I will need to take a few days off work to get it done. Truck is a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L engine.
Air conditioner was acting weird. (It doesn't blow cold air when the car stops at the lights or in the parking lots. But it works great while driving). Then I went to dealer. And they scan my computer. And they said we need to change Aux Fan control unit and also one of the fan .I ordered OEM Aux Fan Control Unit . And I installed it. I connected Vagcom and cleared the Fault code but It still acts same. I checked the fans. They both works fine to me. They run 10 seconds and stops. So I didn't get this part. How the heck this AC works fine while I am driving but it doesn't work when I stop ?
View 7 Replies'90 maxima 245,000 miles.....over the course of a few days all three rear injectors (1,3,5) are stuck open and dumping fuel....lots of white smoke and fuel smell. Mechanic told me to replace the fuel injectors, that they are bad. I do not believe this since i recently replaced the injectors. I confirmed the Ohm on the injectors(10-14) and it is getting a spark....i heard that it could be the wiring harness is grounding out? how do i test this? could my ECU be bad?
View 6 Replies1999 7.3 misses when starting it cold (first start of the day even when outside temps were around 20 deg C ). It has a noticeable miss and lots of white smoke. After warming up it runs perfect. I changed the GPR and tested all glow plugs, 3 bad and one weak one all replaced. Now that it is cold out it still misses when first started, even if left plugged in.
It will start and run for approx 3 seconds perfectly smooth then it starts to miss and idle speed slows down. on one occasion I went to start it after sitting 10 plus hours plugged in and it started then missed and slowly died. Would not re start, It was firing and smoking but not enough to get going again. Went back the next day and it started and ran fine for a few weeks. Did the same thing to me yesterday, started and then petered out and died and this time it will not re start after 2 days of trying on a couple occasions. I changed out the CPS with no luck.
Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
So a few weeks ago my car stalled when I was backing out of a parking spot. It then continued to stall when I was trying to drive through the parking lot. I chalked it up to being low on gas. When I got on the highway it stopped doing it. Then I filled up with gas and it continued to stall while going from a stop position. There is gas and when I go to shift from Reverse to Drive it stalls out when I push the gas. It is almost as if the fuel is not coming through but if I punch it then it does not stall. I've had a number of car issues in the past and I've never experienced anything like this before.
This is an automatic 2003 BMW 330xi.
2016 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab.. How do I turn off the back-up alarm when backing up with my boat and trailer?
View 10 RepliesSo I've noticed at times when I make a turn or when backing out of a parking space and cranking the wheel I hear a knocking sound. What it is? 2013 F Sport with 37K miles. Under warranty so taking it in either way but just curious on what it could be.
View 5 RepliesI've been leasing my 2011 tiguan with last lease payment due next month. I have 63,000 miles on it and I love the car for its comfort, style and handling. So far only two problems, faulty intake manifold and bad fuse box both taken care of by the dealer free of charge. Recently however I've had two more undiagnosed problems that give me pause on continuing with a lease buyout.
1st problem, stalling when backing out of parking spaces. I've read on the forums this could be easily correctable with either change of fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, or a poor electrical ground to the fuel module (?) in the back of the car. This does not concern me much.
2nd and most disturbing problem, in sport mode when punching the accelerator the transmission drops to the low gear but would not shift up to second, lurching the vehicle forward almost as if losing power. This happened on two occasions on one continuous trip I was taking. My worries are a bad tranny, however the regular drive and tiptonic mode functioned correctly and the following day the sport mode shifting worked fine, as I could not get repeat the problem. So I'm baffled.
I'm thinking more of a computer problem than a tranny but need to know soon whether this car should go back to the dealer. I'm scheduled to have it looked at by a foreign auto specialist but the lack of any malfunction lighting, codes or repeatability of the problem makes me unsure it will get diagnosed. Anyway, love the car and want to buy but can't afford a tranny replacement.
Our brakes sends out a loud screech but only while it's backing up. (78k miles)
Is it time to change the pads?
Should we service the brakes at the dealership or private auto shop?
My 2003 dodge dakota with 6cyl fi stalls while doing 3 point turns or backing into parking spots. It also recently has a new problem. If I drive the truck for only a few minutes and turn it off I have a hard time getting it started again. It sounds like it wants to start but just barely can't.
View 1 RepliesI've got VAG-COM and I've enabled the convenience menu, but when I change ATA Confirmation to "off", my horn still beeps when I lock the car. Is there something I've missed? Is ATA Confirmation not what controls that?
View 10 Replies