Prius OEM fan control - EAA-PHEV It seems like at least in the Gen II, the battery fan is quite "lazy" and comes on way too late just like most variable speed fans in electronic equipment.
In the Gen III, does the fan have the same problem? If so, is there an easy way to perform the mod that can be easily undone?
My inverter over heated. Looked at reservoir for motion of water saw none. Took car to toyota for pump recall. When I got it back I heard the pump. Never heard it before. I don't think it ever worked. & water is flowing in reservor now. Now I am thinking about the HV bat. fan because I never never ever heard it working. When does it come on and how could I test it?
View 10 RepliesHow often should the traction battery cooling fan come on? It started to be warmer here in FL, and I hear this fan more often now. I bought my 2011 in December and up until now almost never heard this fan working. Now it comes on at least couple of times a day, mostly under heavy acceleration in Power mode.
View 6 RepliesFirst time I've ever noticed it at least. And she's been on 2 huge x-country road trips with much hotter temps than the other day.
View 8 Replies The past week I have noticed my battery cooling fan running constantly on all highway trips - 20 mile one-way trips going 65-70MPH.
The performance of the battery doesn't seem be degraded, but it seems like the battery is hopping more between charging cycle or whatever you would call it , where you watch the instantaneous MPG on the highway drop down for 10 seconds to 40-50, then back up to 60-70.
The car is a 2011 Prius III. It did not run like this earlier in the summer in the same weather conditions, I would hear the fan maybe once every few weeks in hot 90 degree weather. Now I hear it constantly. This is my first summer owning the Prius so this may be normal, but I wanted to double check with you all if this is a sign of premature traction battery death or something.
We took our 05 Prius to the mountains on Sunday. Coming down the hill from Lake Tahoe the temp climbed to 98. Suddenly we got the red triangle warning and the Hybrid system warning light. The car ran fine and showed no symptoms of any problems. We took the car to the dealer Monday morning. They Read the code P0A82. They said the Battery cooling fan was not coming on and blamed the problem on dog hair. The warning light was off. The car ran fine going home with no warnings. My questions
1) Can/did the dealer reset the warning light?
2) Is there a way to verify that code P0A82 is a bad cooling fan.
Some years back my "farm" '05 prius when a host of bells and whistles went off, cooling fan ran more than normal, and I lost power a couple of times. Turned out this farm prius had an accumulation of dirt, dog hair, hay and other debris that needed to be cleaned out. You got me through the whole process, and the car's run fine until.... . Fast forward a couple of years to 200,003 miles. Now the cooling fan is running pretty constantly, the red triangle stays lit, the check engine light comes on, the (!) is on, and the VSC light is on. Haven't hooked it up to check codes, but did check cooling fan and it's clean. Would it possibly possibly better to change the 12 volt battery?
View 19 RepliesMy dad has a 2015 Prius v Three (lowercase v and three, not III). He just hit 7,500 miles. He had the service done at 5k miles. The error message that popped up on the dash today says, "Maintenance required for hybrid battery cooling parts at your dealer"...
View 4 RepliesIn my 2010 IV, the brake lights activate on the late side. I can only roughly measure it, but brake lights go on when the brake pedal is depressed at least 1.5 inches. I am used to brake lights in other cars activating with a light touch of the pedal.
Problem is: this really ratchets up the danger of tailgaters, who cannot see when you are beginning to stop. Occasionally, a driver who has been trailing me asks if the brake lights are working properly.
My 2010 Prius II has been acting strangely. When I go to turn it on the red blinking key light is really dim at first, but then it gets brighter. The car hasn't been starting right off the bat every time. It seems like it could be a battery issue?
View 4 RepliesI first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
View 13 RepliesAfter about 3 weeks, I finally get my 04 .:R32 back from the shop after getting a new fuel pump (long story there) and the mechanic mentioned the fans began to run and stay running when the key is turned to the on position and then turned off, key removed etc. I picked the car up tonight and repeated his claim turning the key to the on position and the fans kicked on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected. I am hoping there is an easy fix. What this could be? FCM maybe?
View 20 RepliesWe're on our 3rd hybrid. Our new RX450h traction battery cooling fan under the back seat seems to run consistently after the car is driven for a few minutes. Our previous Prius and CT200h did not exhibit this. Is this typical of the 450h?
View 4 RepliesI got my blazer look at and here what they come up with so far. Transmission fluid is discolored. Transmission shifts late between 3rd and 4th at 52 mph. Transmission slips between 2nd and 3rd gears at 32 mph. Lock up 41-43 mph in and out. I never told them this but I change the transmission fluid about a week before i took it there and when I check the fluid it was nice and clean and not burned like he said it was. He said most likely it internal damage.for them to take a look in side to see what is wrong with cost me 400.00 and I said no.
View 6 Replies2000 cavalier z24 2.4 170k automatic....
At first I thought this was a transmission fluid problem but had it checked and it's full. This may be a combo of 2 issues. At first it shifted so hard I couldn't really drive the car. AutoZone computer said the tp sensor needed replaced. I got the tp sensor and the issue did change for the better in that I can drive the car now but there is still a problem.
Its an automatic 2000 cavalier z24 2.4. shifts hard into drive and through the gears, although a bit softer into 3rd and 4th. The weird thing is, and this is how I manage driving it with less issue, is that if I slightly let off the gas real quick and push again when I think it should shift normally, it does. Every time. If I don't let off the gas and push again slightly it will shift late and hard which I imagine isn't good for the trans to deal with.
Not sure if it might be something like a speed sensor or what.
Test drove an 87 Ford Ranger (2.3L, 4 cylinder) and it's in great shape aside from the clutch pedal. It wouldn't really grab until the clutch was almost completely released.
Not sure if this indicated the clutch itself is bad or if something might just need to be adjusted or the line bled, or if it's just how the clutch feels in these late 80's Rangers...
Body, engine, etc. all looked great otherwise. If it wasn't for this odd feeling clutch, we'd go for it.
After a round of extensive maintenance this month, I thought my '02 was once again a road-ready betty. Just my luck! On the drive home from the shop Friday afternoon, I noticed a hard shift when upshifting from 2nd to 3rd. I've done some test driving over the last couple of days, and here's what I've noticed:
1) If I apply too much gas, I intermittently get a little bump—very subtle—when it kicks into first gear from a running stop. The car seems to engage fine at start.2) If I apply too much gas approaching 30MPH in 2nd gear, where I think it would normally shift into 3rd, the transmission upshifts late and hard. The more gas I apply, the harder the shift.3) Once, when gunning it at highway speeds, I got a little bump shifting into a cruising gear at around 70MPH.
I'm able to completely eliminate this problem if I am prudent with the accelerator. If I back off the gas before the tachometer hits 3000RPMs and wait a few seconds before accelerating again, the transmission shifts smoothly. I have not noticed any issues with coasting or downshifting.
I've had this car for a decade and 146K miles and it's driven like a dream every day until this symptom presented on Friday. I don't remember the last time the transmission fluid was changed, but I've never missed a scheduled service and I always use Honda dealer shops. I checked the fluid yesterday, and I think the colour (winey red) and odor (sweet) were both good. The car had been driven recently, and the level on the dipstick was higher than the second dot.
So against my better judgement I rebuilt my C6 myself. It's all back together and in my 79 F150 2wd 400cu. It seems to not want to shift into 2nd on it's own. I can manually shift it into all the gears but 2nd feels like it slips. So here is a list of parts with questions:
I used Mercon V instead of Type F. The transmission is a 1987 and the bottle says it covers vehicles requiring Dextron/Mercon.
I installed a FF servo lever with a P servo. My kit didn't come with a new spring. What effect would a worn spring have?
When adjusting the band, I set it to 120in/lbs and backed it off 1.5 turns. This seemed very loose to me. It leaves the set screw finger tight/loose, so I tried turning it in 1/2 turn but that made no difference and I won't drive it until I readjust it. Also it's a RedEagle wide band, but that shouldn't make a difference.
One place I think I could have a problem is with the modulator. I didn't have a scale to do the 12.5 lbs method, but I had a big syringe, vacuum guage, tubing and t fitting. I could hold the -15" of mercury but the rod didn't go in to the notch like it said it should. I was going to stick the old one in but it's bent and the rod is missing. Will a bad or misadjusted modulator cause the tranny to slip in 2nd? I don't think it's inbetween gears because it does accelerate in 2nd.
I used the BadShoeProductions video along with a Ford Shop manual to assist me.
Complete list of replaced items:
New Modulator
F servo lever with P piston
All Friction and steels
Pressure plates for additional friction plates per video.
All Seals and gaskets
New wide band
New pump
Hughes torque converter
TransGo shift kit
New Sun Shell (Took my end play from .070 to .012)
Everything was cleaned and tested ok per video.
Then only problem with the video is it doesn't tell you what to do when you have a problem, only shows you how to tear down and reassemble.
I used a torque wrench for everything, but if it turns out it's a valve body problem then I will go back through it but only using a nut driver.
The kick down rod is working properly.
My gear selector is set properly.
My problem is on my gf's 99 Passat. Its the 1.8t and runs and drives fine. The abs/brake light is blinking which from reading seems common and I have to send that module out to be rebuilt. The issue I am having right now is every once and a while it wont start. It will crank and crank and finally start like a minute later. She's convinced pumping the gas pedal works but I don't think its fuel related at all as it smells flooded when it finally starts. Ive replaced the plugs, air filter and still does same thing.
View 4 Replies1993 Transport 3.8 L
Starting out from stop it seemed to get noisy and was very late shifting to 2nd. Slowed down and tried again; this time it did not want to shift to 2nd at all. Brought it home slowly.
Trans fluid was right up. I did another road test, running it manually through the gears so I could easily hear and feels the shifting. 1-2-D-OD perfect; did this twice of thrice. Starting out from stop on the highway a couple times, it shifted up perfectly. I did some kick-downs and manual shifting; everything is working fine.
Could this have been a linkage problem? Could running it manually through all the gears smarted up the linkage or something? Could it be related to the 'modulator valve'?
I have the SE model and the only button i have is the traction control on/off button. I looked through the menu in the gauge cluster and I come across a "Eco mode indicator" on/off option. I turned it on and now the eco mode light engages when i drive.... I also noticed that the throttle response has been way numbed down and changes gears late. So basically the "indicator light" options is ACTUALLY the "eco mode".... why don't we have a button for this?
View 9 Replies