Prius PHEV Plug-In :: Chirps On Occasions / Engine Drops Out Under Light Acceleration
Feb 25, 2011
For those of you with more experience with the Hymotion pack than I:
1) What does it mean when the car "chirps?" It seems like I get 3 or 4 chirps on occasion, with each chirp itself being a rapid succession of 3 individual chirps? I assume it is something to do with the Hymotion pack because I never heard them before the pack was installed.
2) Under light acceleration, say 1 mph/sec, when the engine is just barely contributing to acceleration, at around 31mph (+/-) the engine stops putting out power (the arrows from the engine disappear), the car noticeably hesitates when the engine drops out, I get 3 or 4 chirps, then the engine comes back "online" about a second or two later and all is well. Under normal (i.e. faster) rates of acceleration, this does not happen.
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Yesterday, I was driving home in EV mode, PHEV on, about 80°F, no hills, not accelerating, SOC about 4 bars, about 1/2 mile out, when it dropped out of EV mode, and then I got the red triangle and the check engine light. Today I grabbed the code with an OBD2 reader, and got this:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0A92.
2. Engine Coolant Temp - 138.20 °F.
3. Engine RPM - 1,888.00 Rpm.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 14.91 Mph.
5. Intake Air Temperature - 96.80 °F.
6. Time Since Engine Start - 101 Sec.
7. # Warm-ups since DTC Cleared - 74.
8. Distance since DTC Cleared - 706.50 Mi.
9. Control Module Voltage - 13.69 V.
10. Ambient Air Temperature - 80.60 °F.
11. Accelerator Pedal Position D - 30.98 %.
12. Accelerator Pedal Position E - 46.67 %.
13. Time since DTC Cleared - 30 Hr32sec.
Does this happen because it's in EV mode? Do I just have to put up with it every so often? (This is the second time it happened.)
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I am planning to get a Hymotion Plug in Conversion on my '08 Prius soon. Whether or not I should upgrade the suspension? Would upgrading the suspension increase the car's load capacity, compensating for the weight of the new equipment, or just improve handling? Seems like I remember reading that even though the conversion adds about 200 pounds, it is effectively more like adding 300 lbs.
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A good thing about Prius PHEV conversions in general is that they mostly don't change the appearance of the car, except for an outlet on the bumper and a switch on the dash.
You can't tell when it's charging and when it's done, without opening the bottom hatch (which may require unloading cargo). The "low battery" indicator can't be seen in daylight.
The charger has a light that turns red when charging and green when charged (or when the battery pack is disconnected). My preference was to move this light to the power connector on the bumper, but this was not practical. Instead, I found that it was very easy to get access to the reverse light in the tail light assembly, without even removing the cover.
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I bought a new 2014 Prius plug-in base model two weeks ago. No problems until yesterday.
The engine has started revving really loudly on occasion. It's much louder than the normal ICE noise in hybrid mode - 2 or 3x as loud (much louder than our regular Honda Civic engine).
When the revving happens when I'm in EV mode, the EV mode light on left side of dash stays on (but it's clearly not in EV mode). The EV and Eco symbols above the power bar go blank. The MPG won't go above 25 mpg, no matter if I'm not touching the accelerator. Switching from EV to Hybrid mode and back does nothing.
The only way to get it to stop is to stop the car, turn it off, turn it back on, and then it's fine - EV or Hybrid mode, it sounds normal again. I have not tried to drive more than a mile with the noise to see if it goes away. It occurs when:
-If the fan, heat or defrost is on when I turn the car on - turning them off doesn't stop the revving.
-If I switch the fan, heat or defrost on when stopped at a light - turning off doesn't stop it. (But it doesn't happen if I turn heat or defrost on while moving in EV or Hybrid mode.)
-If I switch from EV to Hybrid mode while stopped at a light.
The weather is cooler now and I'm fine with the ICE starting to warm up the engine, the compartment, etc, but the revving noise doesn't seem normal.
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I have 4kw eng. kit now planning to add one more to it. (parallel) How I can increase my EV speed to 52.
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I have been using a BMS+ with my 4KWH kit for a few weeks now. I want to know if there are any other users out there using a BMS+ with a Engineer Kit. I have found that the BMS+ to increase ICE assist and improve fuel efficiency in highway mode (greater than 70kph). Since most of my driving in is in highway mode I find this device to be very useful.
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Any additional scenarios that can kick EV mode off? (I have read if the traction motor is above 104 degrees, EV mode is kicked off.)
Could too much (Enginer) power being dumped onto the HV buss (with a fully charged NiMH battery) also kick EB mode off?
Yesterday my NiMH battery was fully charged, all bars greed (don't know SOC because ScanGauge was set to AMPs). Three hours after a lengthy drive on a 70 degree day when I did have difficulty entering EV mode, I started the car, successfully engaged EV mode and the Enginer Kit, was backing out, and the engine immediately started. (No beeps indicating EV mode was turned off.)
My guess would be that after 3 hours of sitting in a shaded and cool garage that the traction motor would not be 104 degrees.
Could too many AMPs going into the PRIUS (not Enginer) DC-to-DC converter with a FULL NiMH battery cause the engine to start to somehow cool the Prius Converter? (It does have a cooling system, right?).
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I have noticed that when I put my 01 Prius in "D" after I turn the key but, before the ICE starts, it seems to force it into an "EV" mode (the ICE doesn't start, and I can drive on battery only until its charge is way lower than the system usually lets it get). I also get all the warning lights (Triangle, Check Engine and Hybrid Warning). If I pull over, turn it off and turn it back on, the ICE will start and the car will function normally (all the warning lights will still be on unless I cycle the ignition several times). It has happened to me at least 5x in the past two years (only because I'm so impatient and put the car in "D" too fast not because I'm trying to do it).
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I have a 2009 Prius with an Enginer 4kwh battery pack. I know that the Prius' programming has a number of parameters that control when it will enter EV mode.
The display says "Cannot enter EV mode now" when engaging my Coastal EV mode switch at times when I believe it should be able to enter EV mode. Here are the conditions from a recent trip:
-Stopped at a light
-The ICE not running
-Car fully warmed up (just drove 10 miles)
-AC off
-Outside air temp 62 degrees
-Battery showing green bars with the top bar white
If I enter EV mode when the car is started cold then it works fine. Once I've driven it a while I can't get it to return to EV mode reliably.
The last time I spoke with my local Toyota dealer they said that because the 2009 American Prius was not shipped with an EV mode switch they would not support that mode.
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Hymotion battery pack is dead. Won't charge beyond .8 kw max. Doesn't charge enough to offset the cost of the added weight of the pack.
How can I get this "boat anchor" removed.
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I have got a plug in supply phev kit, and I live in the uk. As the software on the kit is written for the American market, I'm assuming our speeds are a little different, ie, the phev kit always wants to enter ev mode automatically below or at 30mph, and the kit does do this, but our 30 mph speed must be different to the usa, as the kit tries to enter ev mode when I'm doing speeds of over 30mph even up to 35 mph, the the cars software stops this from happening and the audible alarm sounds, 4 beeps, and words on the led state ev mode not allowed because we are of course going too fast.
This is of course quite annoying sometimes when the kit is constantly trying to get into ev mode and alarms are frequent at speeds between 30 and 35 mph, over this speed the kit stops trying to go into ev mode.
The kit is working really well to be honest, and I am very pleased with the way it works. One thing I would like to do is to try to stop the audible alarm when the ev mode is not allowed, is there a way of disabling the cannot enter ev mode chime / beep alarm with software, I do own a techstream light.
I wish the PIS program and software was open source, I could alter the parameter myself then.
One more slight thing that could be addressed is sometimes, but not very often, when I am driving in mixed or blended mode, the oem hybrid battery gets too full of charge and the engine starts to burn off the Excess charge in the battery, again if the PIS program was open source, I could adjust the point at which the kit battery adds into the oem battery, I would drop that parameter a volt or 2 to stop the oem battery going into excess and burn off process.
I must say though, apart from these 2 slight annoyances, the kit is awesome.
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Have been having cascading problems since installing PIS 10kWh system in April. Early system shutdown, failed BMS boards, then triggering of Prius warning lights. The latter required disconnecting the 12v battery to 'reboot' and cancel them per Robb of PIS. But then, when attempting to do an electrical load test using air con & other accessories, we triggered several yellow warning lights that do no go away with a reboot. Have been told that we need to have a dealer read the codes to troubleshoot.
Read more: [URL] ....
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I noticed since day one that my 2014 PiP radio is more static than my 2006 Prius. I also noticed that when I started moving in ev only, the radio volume level would drop. Well, I never really thought about it why till I got LED headlights. Now, the static is worst due to RF interference from the LED. So, it looks like there were more interference due to the ev electrical system. With the LED headlight, it made it worst. I have put a choke on the leads of the headlight, but it does nothing.
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I haven't see one that is related to this issue.
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My truck 00' 7.3 255k is smoking white. It's not thick its more of a white haze. Sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn't. It has a 6637 intake, exhaust, and wicked wheel. No tuner or such. Im thinking either the turbo is going out or maybe a leaky injector? Just checked the turbo wheel and it has a little side to side play. On start up itll puff white then go away but then under heavy acceleration on occasion there is a haze of white then goes to haze of black. It also feels like the truck is lacking some power. There is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Not consuming oil or coolant. And there is no excessive pressure coming out of the oil fill.
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My son got this for his '05 Prius, and I plugged it into my PiP for awhile. I am learning to brake more slowly and accelerate more gradually, but the mileage is obviously way off. That seems to be about all it's good for, unless a check engine light comes on.
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The engine check light is ON this morning. It said that there are problems for the hybrid system on the display. I sent it to dealer immediately.
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Was on my way to work when my coil plug light started to blink - acceleration was sluggish as hell so I tried restarting the car to see what would happen. After restart the coil plug still lit up followed by the check engine light. Was gonnna be late for work so I used my other car to get to work and got the car towed to the dealer to check it out. This is what they found...
Birds decided to make a nest in my nice and cozy warm engine compartment ...
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I got to work this morning and had about 3.5 miles left with the EV. Tried to go home and nothing works. I could not open the door. I thought it was my remote battery so I Changed the battery and still nothing works. I get the Orange caution light on the dash and a clicking sound from the engine area . No lights come on. Nothing.
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I have a brand new 2010 Tiguan that has a slight whistle coming from the engine on occasion. It is constant and not engine speed dependent.
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