S-10 :: A/C Compressor Clutch Or Bearings Freezing Up
Aug 17, 2004
My son has a S-10, 4.3 liter where the A/C compressor clutch or bearings occasionly freeze up. By that I mean the serpentine belt rotates, but the ac pulley freezes up. It amazes me that it hasn't broken the belt so far, but surely it will soon.
My question is, can he buy or shorter belt and bypass the ac altogether, as he never uses it, or replace the ac compressor with an idler pulley per the no ac 4.3 liter configuration? He really doesn't want to put a lot of money into the truck at this point as he is in college.
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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My 97 regal has a noise from the compressor clutch. It goes away when the a/c is turned on. Mechanic said its the clutch assembly. Is this easy to change? What causes the noise to go away when the a/c is turned on?
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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The other day, I had the death triangle come up, it's done it 4 times since I have owned it, anyway got the triangle to go off, but now the AC works some of the time, and sometimes not, the lights are not blinking.
I put a new ac pump/compressor on about 3 yrs ago, been good till now, took it to a ac shop, evaced the stuff, put new in, same thing, he said the clutch/compressor was working good, cleaned out the filter, really dirty, was hoping that was the problem, worked good last nite, did probably 10 miles with it, but not really cold/cold air, I have not checked the belt yet, also, sometimes when I come up to a corner, it will like chug up to the stop, like maybe the compressor clutch is kicking in/out. This is the car we use a lot in the summer for the fact of leaving it idle while we are in the store, for our dogs, so it gets lots of use. Also, when the air buttons are on, motor (engine) will shut off the on, when its not blowing cold air.
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My a/c is weak and the compressor clutch is on all the time. What causes that?
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I have recently bought a R32 2008, and when trying to turn the AC I don't hear the AC compressor clutch clicking, the fans are running normally (radiator fans ). What should I check ? Someone told me that maybe it's a compressor problem, and another one said that if the refrigerant gas is low the clutch won't be engaged.
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So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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I'm using a compressor clutch kit to try and pull off the compressor clutch plate from my '96 LT1. Using the tools I got the clutch plate almost all the way off but then it stalled. I've broken every one of the remover screws trying to get it off the last bit. I'm considering picking up a 3 jaw puller to get the job done.
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I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
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Golf 2.0 ... Finding the location of the AC Clutch/Compressor relay location. On the TDI its behind the the dash and I looked on mine and it doesn't seem to be the same. I've seen a thread where some said it was under the battery? Where it is and what number will be stamped on it. Another thread said it should be behind the dash and number 385 or 358, I looked and I don't have those numbers back there.
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My 2006 Honda Odyssey lost the a/c last week. No cold air. After troubleshooting myself, I took it to the shop I use and they came up with it being the compressor clutch. But you can just replace the clutch, so a new compressor. My question is... What's a good price for this repair? In this vehicle the compressor replacement requires the alternator, etc... To come out first before you can even get to the compressor. So, I'm not really excited enough about it to do it myself. Which I think could, except for the discharging the refrigerant.
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99 AC compressor clutch pulley locked up. I replaced the serp belt because it failed, then noticed the AC outer pulley was locked up. I could turn the inner clutch assembly with the 14 mm nut with no problem. So do I need to replace compressor, or can clutch assembly. be repaired on car?
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I have an issue with my 2003 golf 2.0 ac I've done everything that I cloud thing of to check but I still have this issue so here it is. The air coming out of the vents is warm, compressor Clush turn on but doesn't kick off. I hook up ac gauges and it reads 70 on low side and 155 on high side with an ambient temperature of 80. The system has freon, I check fans and they are on when compressor kicks in all relays and fuses are fine.
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l have a 2000 model accent and the air conditioner compressor clutch is not engaging . you press the 'AC 'button and the indicator comes on when a fan speed is selected which l am sure is the correct operation.l checked for 12 volts at the coil terminals of the relay and there is no 12 volts.l shorted the switch contacts of AC relay and the compressor did engage so the wiring from the relay base to the the compressor clutch is ok. l also checked the contacts of the 'AC' switch itself and it seems to be ok. l haven't had much luck with sorting out the wiring from the switch to the relay as l do not have a wiring diagram.
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Just noticed yesterday that the compressor clutch does not disengage while the air conditioner is on. It is 2005 V6 Sonata Elite. All the other cars I have ever owned had compressor clutches that cycle. Internet searches indicate that there might be air conditioners with only a low-pressure switch.
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I have a 2002 F250 on which the AC compressor clutch is not cycling: I have checked and added coolant so low pressure is correct (don't have high pressure gauge). I checked the clutch air gap and it is at 0.030 " as specified in another post. I replaced the low pressure AC cycling switch (on the evaporator/dryer). With the AC on, I disconnected the AC cutoff switch and the clutch disengages. This circuit has the correct (>10V) going to it. I am thinking it could have something to do with the AC relay.
When you switch the ATC to a setting other than AC or Max AC, the clutch disengages fine. I noticed this problem because the AC shuts off when it is really hot, after I have been driving for a long while, about 1 hour or more. If you shut off AC, wait a few minutes, then turn on it works fine.
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I have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
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He has a 96 explorer and his ac compressor clutch was cycling on and off. So he went and bought 2 20 ounce cans of 134a and proceeded to add it to the evaporator service port. Of course a lot of it sprayed out side of it as it did not fit well (duh). So he has no Idea how much he actually got in there out of the 30 or so ounces he dispensed. He is laughing at himself with me on this. He says hi ahead of time
I have access to good gauges and a reclaimer and vacuum as I work sometimes for a residential ac guru. So what to do? I was thinking the evaporator should be changed out but I want a second opinion. Then vacuum and add new 134.
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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