Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Engine Jumped Suddenly When Idling At About 20 Mph
Jul 3, 2012
I just got a used Hyundai Santa Fe (2004). I was so excited until about 50 miles of driving it. Here is what happened:
I was idling at about 20 mph when all of a sudden the engine jumped (a little bit) - the RPM went down to 0 and the check engine light came on. I pulled to the side of the road and put it in park - then the car went back to normal like nothing happened, it didnt stall all the way. I was concerned and took it back to the dealership and they did a diagnostic test on it and it came back negative, nothing was wrong with it.
My boyfriend was driving up north with it and it happened to him, this time, it stalled. He said that the engine jumps a bit- but all of the lights go on on the dash. I remember it smelling pretty hot when I opened the hood before with it happened the first time, so I asked him to open the hood. He said it did smell hot. He checked the coolant and it was empty. It looks like there is fluid in it from the outside, but that was just the line that previous fluids had. He put coolant in (not in the actual radiator, but in the place where coolant goes) and it still stalled. I didn't want him to drive it anymore for fear of something worse happening, so there it sits.
Is this something that happens with most cars, or this kind of car? I am kicking myself for not purchasing the extended warranty, but I didn't have the extra cash to add over 1k to the price. Could it be just the coolant needing to go into the radiator? Do Santa Fe's typically shut down before they overheat? I was doing some research and it seems that cars stall because of either the fuel system or electrical system.
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Cruising down the highway, my 2001 Santa Fe engine suddenly cut out. Would crank, but not fire. Not hearing a sound from the back when I flipped on the key, suspected the fuel pump, which I replaced. No go.
I'd pressed the fuel pump reset switch under the hood - checked it again. Should the switch, when it's pressed, stay in a locked position, like when you do a reset on a GFCI electrical outlet? Or is it normal for it to have the up/down 'play' in it?
Also noticed a strange buzzing on the other side of the engine compartment -- was the unit (don't know what it's called) that the throttle cable feeds into - hooks onto a pulley. The buzzing was intermittent and inconsistent, but it was happening with just the power switch on.
Oh, and did replace the fuel pump fuse, too. While it's at 280.000 miles, not quite ready to give up on 'er yet!
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Its a 2002 Santa Fe 2.0 turbo diesel. When driving the engine will suddenly cut out. Its as though the ignition has been turned off, there is no hesitation or warning, it just shuts down.
This is what has been done so far: New high pressure fuel pump fitted by main dealer in June. My mechanic has fitted a new high pressure fuel sensor, new low pressure fuel pump (at rear by fuel tank), changed relays around, checked all fuel injectors (found in good condition) and checked various connection plugs and wiring. At motorway speeds the engine will not cut, its only at lower speeds. When it cuts the EML comes on with a 'Fuel Pressure Fault' code. Sometimes the light doesn't come on. Sometimes the light comes on but will go out the next day. When the engine cuts out you have to wait 20 seconds before it will re-start. If you try to start before this the engine will only turn over without firing. The car has only done 79000 miles. The main dealer gave up and said they don't know where the fault is because the code is not specific enough.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe that I am getting road ready for my son, The engine has recently started idling very high, 2500 RPM at startup. I disconnected the IAC servo and it drops right down to about 900 RPM. I replaced the IAC with a brand new one and it does the same thing at startup, 2500+ RPM. Checked vacuum hoses / tubes. I replaced 2 crack / dry vacuum hoses. Same problem for a while, then idle went down to about 1250. Started to drive it, test ride. while accelerating, seems OK as soon as I take my foot off of the gas, idle goes to 2500 - 3000 RPM until I apply brakes and then it drops back down to 1000 or so. (SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK PROBLEM. I CANT FIND IT, IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 CANS OF CARB CLEANER AND HOURS OF REPLACING ALL VACUUM HOSES.)
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When start my Caprice (1986) carb-- I used to step on the gas pedal (half step is more than enough) to start the car.
Once the car started it's idling normally, but suddenly after 3 or 4 minute the sound of engine go high idling as if I stepped on the gas and that is remaining for long time even if I step full gas, and if I turnoff the the engine and pull out the key, the car will remain working hardly and shaking like crazy before it completely stop.
What is the problem with my 86 Caprice Brougham? is that problem easy to fix?
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i have just replaced the clutch in my 2002 santa fe all went well but on the test drive i noticed the revs jumping up and down while idling at a set off lights . it was not in gear and the clutch was out. Have checked all hoses and connections. problem still there.
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2003 2.4 base Santa Fe with 167k miles. It's having an intermittent stumble while idling and at take off once the engine is hot. I have replaced the plugs, coil pack, IAC, intake and cleaned MAF as well as replaced the PCV valve. Also checked and no vacuum hoses are misplaced or missing.
After some reading it appears it may be the EGR? I ordered it to replace just because I'm running out of things to try to replace without going to a shop.
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Last night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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2002 santafe 4x4 v6. about week earlier I had a cel for temp sensor voltage high. so I replaced it. then... my power steering cooling loop by radiator started to leak from corrosion and for some reason my coolant gauge was reading about a needle with from the red. (maybe from getting ps fluid on it? idk) so I went to investigate why it was leaking and I thought the cooling loop pluged into a cooler on radiator so I removed my lower front engine mound and motor mount by the timing belt so I could raise engine up a2" to get a better look. when I saw it was just a loop and that was my leak I ordered replacement. It came in I swapped it out. Pretty easy . Decided to do a radiator flush and replace thermostat. Why I was at it. I drained radiator and took the old thermostat out. was gonna leave it out for the flush to cycle better. When I started it up it was idling around 4k rpms. I figured it might be because of thermostat so I put the new one in.
Started it up and same thing.... I check all the vac lines I could find all were tight. I unplugged them one at a time at throttle body/intake tube and blocked it off with my finger and it was still idling high. It also started surging. going from 2k to 4k and going back and forth. I checked the maf and it was clean as a whistle. No leaks on intake pipe. If I put my hand over maf it sucks the tube towards the throttle body. no air leaks anywhere. Took off iac valve its clean. I plugged the holes where it is on tb and started it up and no change in what its doing. also the throttle body flap is closed the hole time. Iac seems to be properly opening and closing. when I watched it after I unbolted it. I sprayed brake cleaner all over manifold to check for air leaks no change in high idle. I also took off the evap valve hose to tb and plugged it at tbody and no success.
I checked my sensor connectors and there tight and no wires are pulled out. I have yet to check cam sensor connection. (does it have a cam sensor?) I unplugged battery over night. this morning it ran at 2k rpm for two mins then surged to 4k. could it be my throttle position sensor? is there a way I can check with multi meter? Ive done a lot of research and it seems like a common problem with Hyundai but people don't leave a what fixed it post after they figure it out. they just leave the threads hanging. I hope I can figure this out.
When I get home tonight Ill plug where the brake booster vac line goes in. I looked at the hose and it was super tight and didn't seem to be leaking but maybe booster is idk. Ill also check wires to all 02 sensors. but if o2 sensor wire was broke wouldn't it throw a cel? Also no check engine light. but id did have an abs light come on the other day. was thinking maybe an abs sensor at the wheel but I am not sure. That light was on for a week before this issue started. It was never revving up until I started working on the other issues from my research I am guessing throttle position sensor. I am going to multimeter it tonight.
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Never had any issues with it before and was working fine on a trip a couple of weeks ago. On the way home I had it on, we stopped to get some food, and then when we started up again cruise control wouldn't turn on at all. I tried turning on and then setting, but nothing happened so I don't think it's the light. Checked the fuse and it looks fine (no noticeable distortion or break to the wire anyway) and brake lights all work.
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
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Engine will die randomly. After sitting for half hour it will restart. It has been to the dealer, it sets no codes but when it dies all lights on dash come on just like when you first start car. It has 75k on it timing belt replaced new plugs and wires. Dealer kept it 2 days and could not replicate the problem.
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A few months ago maybe more my wife told me that her car (2004 Santa Fe 3.5L) seems like it is going to stall when sitting sill at idle, in gear with AC on. I finally got around to looking at it. Ran a diagnostics and no codes were found. Ran a little rough but not really bad. Had her run some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of gas. I hadn't heard anything more from her about it. We decide to drive one night to a concert with friends and I was driving. The surging was very evident and by the time we got home that evening I had an engine light.
The next morning I ran a diagnostics and had a code for a #1 plug misfire. Checked the plugs and sure enough the #1 plug was toast. I went ahead and changed all plug, checked all vacuum hoses. Even changed air filter. Took it for a long drive in the mountains for a couple hours. No codes and everything seemed to be working as advertised. That was last week. Today it started happening again just not as bad.
Again, the problem only occurs when in gear and AC on. If AC is on engine is fine no fluctuation. Steady RPM at about 780-795. So I figured hey she is probably due for some new belts so I will check the AC clutch thinking that if the clutch was seizing it could cause some issues. Not so lucky. Everything was fine. The belts did need to be changed so not a total loss. The idler to the power steering is a little off but not too bad (have one coming to replace any way). I put everything back together ran another diagnostics and again nothing.
So I was wondering could a faulty alternator cause this. I started the car put it in gear and loaded it with lights, high beams, rear defroster, radio, hazards etc.. everything accept AC and the problem started again. I turned everything off and left it in gear and the problem went away. I placed it in park loaded it up again, including AC and the problem came back.
Any other possibilities. While I loaded everything I had a meter hooked to the battery and voltage dropped from 13.97 to about 12.5. Once I turned everything off voltage went back up.
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Recently acquired a 2004 santa fe 3.5l w 99K miles on it. at idle/low rpm i hear a slight gurgling type noise from the engine. I can try to get a video. I recently did an oil analysis and they found no trace metals to indicate engine failure (high trace metals indicating bearing failure etc). i was a few PPM high on iron (16 when universal avg is 10) but blackstone explained it may simply be the way this engine runs and not to be alarmed. they stated an overall good report with strong results. I can try to post the report if wanted. The engine feels pretty strong overall. I recently had timing belt, drive s belts, spark plugs done to bring it current on service.
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Would bad harmonic dampener cause vibration when in park or when in gear but idling? Highway speeds no vibration..
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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My 2012 V6 Santa Fe turned itself off on the freeway today, only 3500 miles,
was in stop and go traffic, stopped and the car just turned off! No shaking or anything. Turned back on (so its not the battery, and YES it had plenty of gas), went about 100 ft and turned off again! Took into the dealer, they won't have an answer until Monday.
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I have a 2.4 Petrol, 16 valve engine in my Santa Fe which produces a rattle on startup when cold. When warm it starts normally. Oil and filter change makes no difference. Timing belt changed 40K ago. No other effects felt with regard to power or noise once initial noise/rattle has stopped after 2 to 4 seconds.
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2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
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