Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: AC Clutch Not Engaging - Low Gas?
Jun 21, 2016
I have recently purchased a 2003 Santa Fe 2.7 Auto and the air conditioning was not working. I noticed the compressor was not spinning so plugged a can of R134a into the low pressure port and noticed it had virtually no pressure. As per the instructions I filled the system until the compressor kicked in then filled it to near the optimum pressure (according to the temperature chart) of 45psi (it was probably nearer 40 as the can was running out).
The A/C was then blowing cold. However a few hours later when I tried it again, the compressor wouldn't engage. I haven't checked the pressure again yet as it was getting late but before I start looking into things I wanted to ask here if there are any particular common issues? I know on a Ford I had a few years ago I had to buy a smaller set of shims for the A/C clutch plate, is this the same with the Santa Fe?
I've read a bit about some connectors or switches but couldn't find much info. What would cause the compressor clutch to not engage when the A/C works well when it is engaged? As I say the pressure was about 40psi but I will check it again tomorrow, could it be it is a bit too low?
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I drive a 2001 Elantra, 5 speed manual, about 135k km on it which is about 85k miles. Yesterday I felt the clutch pedal was engaging unusually low or was not as resistant to the weight of my leg as is usual. I could drive it without much trouble though.
This morning the pedal went all the way to the floor with virtually no pressure exerted on my half, and shifting gears was pretty much impossible without excessive force, so I parked it and walked to work instead. It felt like I was shifting gears without stepping down on the pedal, even though the pedal was all the way to the floor.
I then checked the fluid in the reservoir and it was at the max, but it was black like oil. I've done some reading and I'm thinking replacing or cleaning the master and slave cylinders could work. Am I way off?
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2003 santa fe, automatic, front wheel drive, 4 cylinder.
I had problems with the starter not cranking. took it off to the auto parts store and tested bad. I bought a new one there from called a tough one brand name. put it in, and it grinds the flywheel and sounds like it does not engage the flywheel enough. to it back to the auto parts store, and tested it, and it seemed like the gear did not shoot out like it should. they replaced it with a second starter now that tested good before i left the store, put it in and it does the same thing.
1. Can this type of starter not throw the gear far enough into the flywheel ?
2. Can a voltage drop to the starter cause the same thing. Basically is it possible my wires are bad not throwing enough juice to throw the gear all the way forward.
I pulled the starter out and jumped it with the battery and it seemed to work fine, but on the car it just grinds.
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My mother in law has a Santa Fe 2004 with a ~2.4. The AC compressor quit working over the winter. The AC compressor does not react to turning on the AC button.
I checked the fuses. I also tried changing out the AC relay with another one and it still didn't respond. The relay also didn't sound as though it was clicking over. The AC indiacator light is working.
Could it be the actual button has failed or is there a way to check if the button is functioning?
How does the compressor know to engage? Is there a place I can test 12v at the compressor?
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My 2001 santa fe has recently had a new clutch fitted as the old one was slipping but, when towing our caravan at the weekend the clutch is playing up again but, this time the clutch is slipping at anything above 2500 rpm yet she is pulling fine below this rpm.
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Ok santa fe 2006 (facelift) clutch was slipping. We've put new clutch kit in it (thrust bearing; friction and pressure plate). We discovered it had already had the DMF concersion to single mass. So we ordered the single mass clutch kit for it and fitted. All back together, clutch won't disengage and allow you to put it in gear!!! So took it all apart again to check the fitting as the inspection hatch it just didnt appear all fingers on the pressure plate was being pulled.. all looked correct, thrust bearing snapped in to place as it should... we got box back on (making sure the lever entered the thrust bearing correctly) and still no luck. When you press the clutch you can pull the rubber on the slave cylinder back and the piston moves all the way to the circlip. There appears to be movement on the pressure plate in the box. At a complete loss.......... what could have happened?
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Santa Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
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I have a '03 V6 3.5 Santa Fe. The clutch on the AC compressor went out and was making a loud racket. When I was pulling the compressor off I noticed the wire harness connection to the compressor was damaged. Either by me or previous change.
So the end of the harness on the car side is damaged. Can a new one be purchased and spliced? I cannot see where it goes to see if it can be replaced.
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Recently I began hearing noise such as a rattle on the right front of the vehicle. It is a 2003 SF 2.7L front wheel drive with almost 180k mi. At first I thought the noise was from the Serp belt tensioner. Now I believe it originates from the compressor clutch.
Does the a/c clutch have a history with its bearings ? Is the clutch replaceable on the compressor or is this a single unit replacement ?
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My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
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SYMPTOM : 04 Trailblazer had intermittent A/C clutch engagement with the A/C system fully charged (showed about 80lbs on low side with engine off)...
SOLUTION : Three wire plug that plugs into the A/C pump has a bad connection on middle pin. I chased the middle wire with a pick and pushed firmly, the A/C pump kicked in, and out when I released pressure.
Testing the Harnass side: with relay #44 crossed (pins 30 & 87), with vehicle on or off, and the plug attached, you should have 12V+ at dark green (middle wire), you should have a ground on the black or brown wire, and you should have approx. 5v+ on the Lt Green or yellow wire.
Testing the clutch side: (harnass unplugged)
Black to red 3.7 ohms.
Black to other red 3.7 ohms.
red to red .01 ohms (fully closed circuit)
- If red to red open circuit, you have a bad switch on the compressor body---replace compressor.
- If red to black open circuit, you have a failed electromagnet in your clutch, relace clutch.
- If compressor side tests good, and you are missing 5v+ on harnass side, you have a bad connection.
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Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
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I'm having trouble with my a/c clutch not engaging now for about 4 days. I believe I have narrowed it down to the field coil. I checked and I am getting 14 volts at the wire that plugs into the compressor. Auto a/c function will not turn on the a/c compressor light on the dash, but will turn on when manually pushed. When this first started, the radiator fan would kick on but spin slowly and now does not turn on at all when engaging a/c.
Per an older thread I checked the resistance at the a/c relay, though it did not tell me which pin(s). The only readings in ohms I could find from the a/c relay junction in the engine fuse box said 69-76 ohms, but I am unsure whether I am reading the correct wires or the correct way. Facing the front of the car, I am getting the above ohm reading from the bottom right pin to ground. Which pin is the correct one to test?
I am currently thinking the a/c clutch field coil is bad, but it stumps me that the radiator fan will not kick on either now.
Background of car : PO wrecked car, damaging the front end. I bought the car and fixed it up. A/C Pulley was replaced due to bent flange where serpentine belt travels. Also brand new radiator fan and replaced other seemingly non-related items to this issue.
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I'm just over 45k miles, have a new mechatronics unit as of 39k, and I am beginning to see a new symptom for the first time since the replacement.... wondering if any of you have experienced this.
It's happened 2 or 3 times in the last couple weeks. The symptom suggests the clutch is not fully engaging. It is as if I had the clutch pedal in while in first gear, and I am feathering the clutch. This happens in "M" mode -- but I basically only drive in M so cannot say if it may happen in D or S.
Today, for example, I was at a red light on an incline. Light turns green, right foot off the brake and onto the throttle. Engine free spins up to nearly 4k and the car hold its position on the incline, without any movement or even a hint of movement. But there apparently was enough force going to the wheels to keep the car on the incline.
The engine does not rev as if it is in LC mode. It is free revving without any sound of it being under load.The clutches seem ok, this is not a clutch slippage problem. It's something occurring in the DSG's control.
I called my service advisor and he looked me up and said I have the latest and greatest MU, and my VIN does not qualify for the recent MU recall that is in the works. He said to just keep an eye on it for now (of course)
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Exactly what the title says.....when its cold out/cold start....engaging the clutch pedal it makes a click sounds up top of engagement?
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My clutch is not disengaging when i push in the clutch pedal. I have good clutch pressure, I have to basically rpm shift my way through the gears. Is a dead slave cylinder the most likely culprit for this? if so is there any special information i need to know when it comes to bleeding out the new one?
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Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
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I got my R32 back 2 days ago after deploying to Iraq for a year. Upon driving it for the first time I took it a little easy on the car. I made sure the clutch was fully out before I did anything silly and what not.
Today I took it to the track and on the first launch I dropped it from like 3500 rpm and the RPMs shot up to 7500 and the car was moving at like 5 mph. I hit second gear and the rpm almost instantly shot up to 7500 rpm's again with the car moving at like 10 or 15 miles an hour.
After that, i let off completely. I tried one more time out in the warm up area to see what the hell was going on. Did the same thing. I could smell what I'm guessing was clutch burning pretty freaking bad. I'm, not 100% sure it was the clutch because I've never smelt a clutch smell that strong before.
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So i just took my 2010 Golf 2.5 into the dealer because it was not going into gear. Its a 5 speed with 12, 900 miles. They tell me they have to pull the trans and open it up before they can even tell whether or not the problem is covered under warranty!
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The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
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Lately I've noticed that when slowly engaging first or reverse, the clutch has noticeable but not loud chatter, kind of like its gargling a little. I JUST changed the trans fluid from OEM to Amsoil 75W-90 API GL4 and its about the same time the noise came, but I'm not going to assume right now that this is the source of the noise. Clutch acts just the same, apart from this gargle.
Might be worth mentioning that this all seems to have started about the same time the temps around here started to dip below 30 on a regular basis
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