Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Jerks Forward And Downward While Driving At Between 20 - 45 MPH
May 7, 2014
While driving at between 20-45 MPH in warm weather only IDEAL SPEED IS 38-42 .. At times the car jerks forward and downward like, even slowing down at red light: Seems like the whole problem is coming from transmission! (Sensors)? The car is cursed. Example:
1- The symptom seems like your driving in drive position then all of sudden it shifts to low gear
2- When driving normal then it seems like the car shifts to neutral and the RPMs shoot up to 3-4
3- Sometimes when stopped the steering wheel shakes bad.
The car runs normal in winter time? Doesn't do it everyday.
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I've got an 02 Santa Fe with the auto-dimming mirror. The tension that keeps the mirror in position has gotten loose, so the vibration from the road causes it to slowly move downward while driving.
Is there a way to tighten this up? Do I need to remove the mirror from the windshield to do this? (because, I can't even seem to figure out how to do that!)
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe Gls. I noticed that the car jerks while driving. It stumbles when you slow down. The vehicles feels like it lags power like something is holding it back. I noticed that the gas mileage is bad. What's wrong with it? Is it something fuel related?
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I bought a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L and noticed the engine would jerk really bad. It felt like the engine was going to jump out of the vehicle. I notice it does it when I turn it on in the morning and when I am driving slowly out my lane way the engine jerks. I have dealt with this problem since last year and they have already replaced the transmission which has done nothing. I took it back to the dealership and the service manager told me that he has already had 4 of the same vehicles come in with the same problem and they realized that they had to re-set the computer in the engine so that the transmission computer and the engine computer are on the same page that they talk to each other so to speak. Since they re-set the computer we have had the vehicle back a week today and this morning the car jerked again. I am tired of constantly taking this vehicle in and being told they have a solution and then it is not fixed. How am I supposed to sell a vehicle to someone when it feels like you are being lifted out of your seat because of the JERKING!!!!!
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I changed the purge valve because it was hard to fill up. It idles fine but when I drive it at 40 and just cruise without a load on engine it starts to jerk or misfire. I'm going to change plugs even though they don't look bad and wires.
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We have an '03 Santa Fe (2.4L). We are the original owners.
About 18 months ago, one of our Ignition Coils cracked and caused a misfire when then engine was under load. I replaced the coil, wires, and plugs myself at that time.
Since that time, we have experienced intermittent engine jerking while at highway speeds. There does not seem to be any pattern, and it does not happen every time we drive it.
I took it to the dealer who diagnosed a valve cover leak. They replaced the gasket, one ignition coil, wires and plugs. The problem still happened intermittently after that. I brought it back to the dealer, who diagnosed a valve guide/seat leak. Oil is getting into the cylinder and fouling the plug they say.
I could not afford the fix (and was very dissatisfied by the service I received) so the dealer recommended to change the plugs every 3 - 5K miles to get me through. I was told this on 03/31/09 (125695 miles). I replaced the plugs, wires, and BOTH coils again at that time.
Last week @ 130K miles the engine jerked again. I replaced all four plugs again Sunday morning, but the ones that I pulled were NOT look oil fouled. I showed them to a mechanic friend and the guy at the auto parts store. Both agreed that the spark plugs looked almost new. Sunday evening, while driving on the freeway, the car jerked again!
Since this happened again SO soon after changing the plugs, I really have a hard time believing the valve guide diagnosis. Some possibilities I have seen/heard:
- Crank position sensor or camshaft sensor (This was replaced at 78K miles along with the all of the belts)
- Clogged fuel filter
- Bad O2 sensor
- Vacuum leak from the hose that is between the throttle body and the engine casing
- The dealer's valve seat suggestion
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This has happened a few times when the car jerks, check engine light comes on and seemingly goes into limp mode. Cannot engage 4 wd either. I leave the car for while then come back and the engine light is off and the car works normally.
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2003 hyundai santa fe 2.4l ... When driving on highway speeds of 65 miles hour, I take foot of the accelerator and I put it back on to gain speed , it starts jerking or bagging. Also in the city when I press accelerator seems to have no power. I have no codes or check engine light on, what could it be?
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We have a 2001 Santa Fe. Very recently it began hesitating when put in gear going forward or reverse. Once the gas pedal is pressed, there's a delay of up to 2 seconds as RPM climbs, then the vehicle jerks into gear. It seems to run fine otherwise. Mileage is approx 128 k. Maintained very well by the same mechanic until very recently. Internet searches have gotten answers of use fuel additive, install some computer patch, fix an oxygen sensor, change tranny fluid and flush tranny, rebuild tranny.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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What can cause a car to jerk forward while accelerating? Other symptoms include loss of HP and MPG. Recently had spark plugs and wires changed. Regular maintenance. I am about to see my mechanic and ask him to check the fuel pressure.
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo ss 100,000mi
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2002 Santa Fe has been misfiring for about a month...yesterday it got worse...When it's running hot and stopped at intersection it lurches forward.. It stalled when backing up after being parked. Mechanic did diagnostic test and it showed zero...He changed 2 wires to spark plugs..Spark plugs have only 20,000 miles and SUV has 68,000 miles.
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I have an issue with something when I stop. When I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop, right when the forward motion is completely stopped the ex kind of rocks back on the shocks. When that happens the ex jerks just a little. Kind of like if the brakes were sticking to the rotor, or the shocks are sticking. Then when I start to accelerate it jerks again. How can I tell if the brake hoses are bad, calipers are bad, or if it's the caliper slide pins, or if the shocks are bad?
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09 stx 2wd 4.6L- I have a 2.5'' leveling kit and 33'' bfg a/t tires. The problem is when I make sharp turns, or turn and go over small bumps. Whats happening is something seems to catching or rubbing it kind of jerks towards the opposite of where I am turning and causes the traction control to slow my truck (sucks on tight off-ramps/ u-turns). this happens at pretty much any speed although it gets worse as speed increases. At first I thought it was the steering stoppers but don't have any wear on them, tires do not rub anywhere. My dealer and a local off road shop cant figure it out...
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It's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
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2003 Santa Fe GLS 3.5l with 170k.
Been working OK up until about 2 months ago when I would notice a brief hesitation every once in a great while when driving. It became hard to start - would crank well but just took about 5 seconds to finally start. Recently, I was on the highway and it jerked at about 65mph but did not cut off. Once when I was at a traffic light, it shut off completely but started right back up again. I was convinced that it was a crank or cam position sensor as I had dealt with a similar issue with another car years ago. It also seems to start right away when the temps are in the single digits - when they get higher than 25 or so, hard to start again.
I bought a new crankshaft position sensor because all the posts I've read point to that being the problem given the symptoms. I haven't installed it yet - still looking into this and wondering where it is! I'm thinking that it might be more fuel-related now though because after I started my car after work yesterday (it went all day without being started) it was hard to start but this time it was if I hadn't started it in 3 weeks. It kind of sputtered until I gave it the gas enough where it would settle out. Fuel pressure regulator? I hadn't thought it would be fuel-related (pump, pressure regulator) because 99% of the time, the car works just fine.
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What could it be? Replace front brakes. Then they said it was front axels, replaced them. Making same noise... grinding and feels like you are hitting brakes when you are not. Sounds like metal on metal. What else can it be? 01 sante fe 180,000 miles v6 awd. It was doing it in reverse but after all of this now just in drive at slow speeds.
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3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
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So I go on vacation, and as we're driving down, the CEL comes on with p1166 pd1166. Get home the code still pops up. A month later small oil leak is detected. Clean the throttle body intake, fuel and exhaust systems. Oil leak gets worse, turns out the crank shaft seal has failed. Shop cleans out the oil, and replaces the timing belt. Clears the code and the CEL stays off for 5 days. I clear the code and Its good for days. Get it up over 50 and the CEL pops on. So today go for a trip mostly highway driving. I go over 125 miles with out the CEL coming on. Check it and the reader reports pd1166. Clear it. Driving back 4 miles and the CEL comes on. 2 codes p1166 and pd1166.
What are the time parameters for logging a pd1166 and the p1166. No engine issues, no performance issues. Gas mileage is 17-19mpg.
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Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
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My 2012 Santa Fe GLS 2.4L jerks and bucks while coasting. When you let go of the gas pedal the car would jerk. Is that normal for the car. The dealer could not duplicate the problem.
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