2004 Santa Fe, 2.7 L V6. The oil was changed approx 5-7k miles ago (not really sure as I bought it from someone else) and I just changed it today. There's a new knocking noise in the engine. I used normal castrol GTX oil, 5w-30.
I drove it about 20 miles and the noise is still being made, so it's not a circulation problem.
Ok I changed the 2 front struts on my Santa Fe. And the strut mounts. Rides alot better and no shimmy in the wheel but I noticed a knocking noise when turning the wheel sharp. What I have come to find out the top of the spring it turning the whole cup or top hat it sits in. I put the cup in the right spot because there is a flat spot on the thread of the the strut.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 Santa Fe, 2.4, 2WD, stick shift with 125,000 miles on it. The problem started 9 months ago, when I was driving up-hill above 45 or 50 mph that continuous knocking noise came up from the rear-underneath the car, in order to stop it I had to reduce the speed, the problem has been there since then, but now is getting worse due to the noise comes up even driving on the street, when I'm gunning the car and shift to the next gear the noise comes up for 1 second, meanwhile I'm pressing the clutch pedal and then disappears, It's really weird because looks like it is related to the engine but the noise is in the rear.
I forgot to tell that the noise is not metallic, sounds like plastic or rubber, besides I already replaced the rear shock absorbers, inspected the exhaust to see any sign like touching the body of the car and checked all around the tires to see any sign of wear out and nothing, everything looks good.
My 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
Its been getting quite cold here lately at night and in the morning when i go to the santa fe it makes a ticking noise for about 2-3 seconds and everything is fine again. I was thinking of dropping a quart of transmission fluid in the crankcase run it for a bit and change the oil?
View 14 RepliesMy 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
Recently, when I start the engine (cold or even warm starts) I hear a subtle knocking noise that doesn't last too long but a few seconds. I figured that maybe it's because our area may still be using winter mix gasoline... but I'm not sure. Also, there's a rattle underneath the car when the engine switches into generating electricity with MG1.
This only happens after a start-up procedure (cold or warm). It stops when I push the gas pedal down a little bit (while still in park) then it goes into charging again, and by that time, it's stopped. I figured it may be a heat shield on the exhaust. It sounds more up in the front.
Also, when I start the car, the engine starts smoothly but then 1-2 seconds later goes into spinning MG1 which makes the car kinda sound like "vrrrrrrr---VRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr...." .
I have a 2001 ford ranger 2.5 and a standard 5 speed. Its been knocking for a while now and recently its made a much lower tone knock, I am thinking I may have thrown a bearing. Also I am wondering what other engines I can use, besides the 2.5.....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 4x4 4.6L Auto trans. 96,000 miles... I purchased it in Jan with 93,000. About a month ago it started making and occasional knocking noise coming from the engine, this noise was heard at idle in park and in drive. when I revved the motor it would go away but as the idle settle back down you could hear it again. the noise would go away as I was driving and come back with no rhyme or reason, I put a stethoscope on the engine and it seemed loudest under the oil pan. The oil gauge is up between 5/8 to 3/4. Fast forward to now, When I start it I hear a scraping almost grinding noise that resonated thru the cab it has the same intermittent characteristics. I think I am going to remove the serp belt, remove the trans inspection cover next and see what happens. Oh I did put a scan too on it, no codes but did notice 1 long term 02 sensor trim was staying around -.618 if I remember.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
Just DIY'd the first oil change on my new 2013 Prius at 2100 miles. When I first started the engine after the oil change, it was knocking and sounded a little rough for about 5-10 seconds.
View 19 RepliesI have 2012 Camry 4 cyl. Recently I changed the oil from 5w20 to 0w20 as recommended for this car. But after I put 0w20 oil in my car the engine started knocking as if there is a continuous slap in the engine. I had ordered this car from the USA but I live in Turkey. Some ppl say I if I put 5w30 oil the noise will disappear. Camry is not sold in Turkey so the mechanics do not understand the problem. What should I do?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2005 Standard 2.5 RS wagon - nice little car.
So with that in mind, I had a local garage (trusted...dealership in this area is notoriously crooked) replace my timing belt, tensioner, idlers, thermostat, and water-pump last week. I've had the car back for about 3 days and I just noticed today, that while the car is idling, I'm hearing a knocking noise coming from the engine somewhere (could be while I'm driving too, but maybe I just not hearing it) - I don't recall this sound before bringing it in for the work. When I rev up the engine a bit, it goes away, but when the car sits for a few minutes, it comes back.
I've already had it back in since the change for a defective tensioner, which the garage replaced free of charge. I plan on calling them first thing Monday morning to bring it in so they can have a look, but in the meantime, what this likely to be?
Started getting a knocking in the front end when you hit small pot holes. I was wondering would it be strut mounts or something else ?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 v6 petrol Santa Fe which developed a rather loud knocking from the bottom end over the weekend.
To cut a long storey short I have had the best use from this car for a long time and she has served me well so rather than patching her up I have decided to replace her with something new and less guzzley :-)
The reason I have got in touch is because I'm not sure whether to break her or sell as is. I have the space and room to break the car up but understand it will take an age to sell the parts and don't know if this is more likely to raise more cash than just selling the car as is with the fault.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4L (automatic) with 200,000 miles. Auto shop is recommending I change my transmission fluid. I've heard that changing the transmission fluid on a high-mileage vehicle is potentially dangerous. I haven't noticed any symptoms of "bad" transmission fluid.
View 5 RepliesI made a mistake, detached TPS from throttle, thought it was purge valve, then I put it back and today my car won't change gears, I messed something up, never had problems with my transmission. Santa fe 2003 3.5 ....
View 2 RepliesI changed the purge valve because it was hard to fill up. It idles fine but when I drive it at 40 and just cruise without a load on engine it starts to jerk or misfire. I'm going to change plugs even though they don't look bad and wires.
View 2 Replies2003 Santa Fe with the 2.7l v6. It started making ticking noises from the engine bay about a year ago it sounds almost like when you take a spark plug out of the socket while engine is running (that’s the best way I can describe it).
It used to only do it when it was cold out and first started. Then it started doing it while at idle as well. Now it does it all the time no matter idle, or how warm the engine is or how warm it is outside. It getting so loud it sounds like I have a diesel engine.
The check engine light came on and was on a for a while before I could find the issue. The issue that caused the CEl to come on was a solenoid and an Air intake temp sensor. I fixed those but that had no effect on the noise. I have replaced all the valve gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv valve air filter. Still had no effect.
My wife took it to a mechanic who I believe ripped us off, and did no work but charged her for it. They did a timing belt and lower valve gasket job 1500$. There was no sticker to prove new timing belt, no new water pump, thermostat, and then they said it needed a new ECU (200$) which they ordered it and it had nothing to do with the ecu. They should have eaten the cost once they put it in and found it wasn’t that, but they did not!!! She has no idea about cars and paid them. but don’t get me started on that I will never return to that shop, and am thinking of taking them to small claims court dishonest thieves who took advantage of her not knowing about cars (I was out of state for work, and was out of cell phone range so she couldn’t have asked me).
It has a hard time going up steep inclines and you have to either gun it before the incline or it is very hard to make it up you can put the peddle to the floor and it only slowly climes but the engine rpms almost go to redline 5k rpms. Whenever I go to put gas in it clicks the pump off nonstop and to fill the tank you literally have to find a sweet spot or stand there and constantly hold it in when it clicks and clicks and clicks. I have changed the oil to synthetic, and I am using only OEM oil filters from the dealer ship. I changed the idler pulley, but that did not work. I changed the Oil and filter, but that did not work either.
I have had multiple people look at it and some of the answers they have said were…. “Noisy lifters”, “ticking idler pulley”, “Sticky timing chain idler”, “Change the oil and switch to oem filter”, “Its defiantly “something wrong in the fuel system”. And the best one… “I don’t know it sounds like it’s not long for this world”.
So now I am trying to decide the next step. I don’t like driving it around to much as I am worried if it is serous it may be something that ends up running the engine, but it’s the only vehicle available at the moment. I feel like hitting my head on the dash board I don’t know what to do anymore.
Link to photobucket video of noise : [URL] .....
I somehow managed to kill my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 while doing the dreaded spark plug change and looking for pinpointing and rectifying the problem.
A quick rundown of the car... My mom bought her new in late 03, decided to get a BMW X3 a couple of years ago. I bought her with 65k miles. I just recently had the timing belt replaced by a reputable shop at 79k (yes I know I let it go too long.) I just hit 80k and decided it was also time to do the plugs as I had noticed a decrease in performance and gas mileage of late. Other than the recent dip in performance the car has been extremely reliable and has had no previous issues.
I researched as much as I could knowing that the 3.5 isn't the easiest engine to work on. I bought the recommended Champion plugs that came in the car from the factory as well as the oem Hyundai wires. I also replaced the plenum gasket.
I took my time replacing everything but despite my best efforts, I accidentally cracked the plastic on the radiator reaching over to the back bolts on the plenum. Other than that mishap, the only other issues was the #5 plug sticking which finally came loose after some begging and pleading to the car Gods. Unfortunately, my begging and pleading was enough for them to allow the car to start.
After reading a thread on here, I believe the problem is that I removed the TPS sensor to get to the bolts on the EGR valve, I know now that this was a big mistake. I checked and double checked every connector and can not find one that was missed or disconnected. The car would try to start but would not crank over. I was unable to get any OBD2 codes from my code scanner.
I decided to try a TB from a junkyard and swap it on to see if that was the issue. After swapping it on, the car started and ran like crap for about 15 seconds and stalled out. I was however able to pull some codes in this short time.
The codes I received are:
P0102: Mass Airflow Circuit Low Input.
P110 & P1172: ETS Improper Motor Current.
P1192: ETS Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction.
P2127: Throttle Pedal Position Sensor "E" Circuit. Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Voltage Too Low.
I'm not sure if these codes are left over from before I swapped out the TB or not. I reset the codes after I wrote them down and researched them to see if they reappeared but the car will not start again so I can't get the codes to reappear.