We went camping and my girlfriend wanted to take her brothers fishing boat for him, on the way back the electronic stability control light came on and when we reached our destination we discovered it wound not shift into or out of park without using the key override.
2011 front wheel drive santa fe ...
I have a 2013 F150 Ecobost. It is a 4 door 4x4 with the single rear drive shaft. When I pull my boat I get a very strange vibration between 60 and 70 MPH Mostly around 65. I had my balance checked all around on truck( not by Ford dealer) and took my Bass boat to the factory and had them go thru all the wheels and balance. It worked but I still have vibration. When I'm pulling the boat and the vibration starts I can see the trolling motor shaking on the front of the boat. At this time I do not think it is the boat. I have a tongue weight of about 350 Lbs. Having problems with F150 with a little load on the rear. Truck and boat are both new with low mileage.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
View 13 RepliesThis fuse controls the interior lights, power windows, and the brake pedal shifter release. I noticed the problem when the vehicle would not shift out of park.
I replaced #15 fuse (5amp) and everything worked fine however several hours later with the vehicle simply parked the fuse blew again.
Appears to be a "short" of some kind but it seems to take several hours for the fuse to blow.
My 2007 Sante Fe had problem this week. Took 6 attempts to start engine, then ran smoothly the rest of the night. The check engine light came on while trying to start vehicle.
Next day I changed the spark plugs but now find that the vehicle jerks when idling. Runs fine when going but jerks and bucks at stop lights and stop signs. Just added fuel injection cleaner to see if that may support the situation.
Engine light has come back on again since resetting. I have read several suggestions on internet regarding leak in vacuum line, Coil Pack damage due to faulty hose, even faulty 02 sensor.
'17 Ultima has the "New Stero" syndrome... 300km and when I got home today turning if off resulted in ACC instead with message to Shift to P.
Still at the dealer. Can't figure it out... Everything, well almost everything I guess, says it's in Park. Swapping parts is next.
At least it was still doing it when I got to the dealer. I just hope they find the offending component and that it doesn't turn into a 'self-healer', waiting to do it again. Dealer says first time they have encountered it...
I have a 2007 Honda Civic with an automatic transmission that started acting up tonight. I am having difficulty getting it to shift out of park. Once I finally get it out of park, it shifts to everything else fine. It's not because the wheel is locked (checked that already). What could be the problem and how cheap can I get it fixed? I just got socked nearly $800 for an alternator and battery when I broke down in Indianapolis during my vacation and was lead to believe, by the garage that repaired it, that my serpentine belt was going to go at any time. In any event, it's the only car my family has, it has 177,777 miles on it (roughly) and we can't afford to trade it in for another vehicle. We have to keep it running.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 Santa Fe SE. Drove it the other day, vehicle sat for about 45 minutes, got back in and it would not crank. It had lights and power, but made no cranking sound when the key was turned. Tried to start it numerous times, waited 15 minutes to an hour then it started just fine. This has happened 3 times total. Each time the vehicle was driven for about 15 minutes then sat for awhile then would not start, but was able to start after waiting for awhile.
Brought it to a garage/mechanic who could not get the problem to repeat itself. He checked the battery hookups and looked it over, but did not see anything out of place. He did not hook it up for a diagnosis.
When driving I seem to be constantly applying pressure to the left side of my steering wheel to keep the vehicle from moving to the right. I've had the car aligned made sure my tire pressures were correct and had my mechanic check the undercarriage to make sure ball joints tie rod ends etc. are all in good working order. Despite all this the vehicle seems to want to wander right and I'm constantly putting pressure on the left side of the steering wheel.
View 4 RepliesWife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
View 11 RepliesMy automatic 2007 Nissan Altima has developed an intermittent problem when I go to shift it into park it won't shift down past neutral. I can't physically move the gear shift past neutral and can't take my key out of the car. If I wait awhile or drive off somewhere else it will later allow me to shift normally again and won't happen for awhile. It has happened maybe 8-9 times but I worry it will get worse or break the transmission. I've taken it to a mechanic and they looked at the transmission and didn't see a problem but sense they couldn't recreate the issue they couldn't fix it.
View 1 Replies2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
I have had an ongoing issue with my 2010 Santa Fe Limited with the battery randomly being drawn down and would not start the vehicle.
I saw a post somewhere on the internet to remove the Negative connection on the fender and grind it down to the bare metal so that it has a good ground connection.
I have done that last week, but last night before turning in for the night i looked out the window and saw lights in my driveway. I went out to investigate and found that the Santa Fe's turn signal/hazard lights were all on front and back and not flashing.
I got in the vehicle and turned the lights on and off with no keys and they all went out.
I got the schematics for the Santa Fe and i believe it could be the Hazard relay that seems to be located inside the I/P Junction box or could be the Hazard Relay Control in the BCM.
I recently purchased a 2012 used Santa Fe. I've only had it about 2 weeks and just noticed something the other day. When I shut the vehicle off and exit, I hear a very low ticking noise coming from behind the front grill vents. It lasts for about 15 seconds and slows down until it stops completely.
I'll be the first to tell you that I know absolutely NOTHING when I comes to cars (other than how to drive one ). My guess would be that it sounds like some type of fan coming to a stop. If this is the case, I'm wondering if one of the blades could be bent, and how potentially serious of an issue this might be? Other than that, it drives great, with no other notable noises while in motion.
Got a 2007 Santa Fe CM (Europe) with 160k km. I'm currently trying to figure out how to fix the clunk noise in the front of the vehicle. I am aware about the TSB 12-DS-002 where they recommend changing the drive shaft washer, but since that's a lot of work I want to make sure that this is really the problem.
The noise is not always there. Sometimes you can hear the clunk when decelerating, but not always. You can also sometimes hear a clunk when going from D to R. It sounds like a driveshaft has some play, and a change in the direction of the force causes it to slam into the other side. However, you can't feel it, so there is definitely not a lot of force behind it. You can only hear it.
However, I asked some guys to shift between R and D while I'm outside so that I can figure out where the sound comes from. However, murphy's law, it didn't made any clunk. And after shifting between R and D for like 20 times I felt bad for my transmission and stopped it.
The clunk is not always there, just sometimes. It doesn't really make sense to me, if its really play in a driveshaft it should be always there? Also the clunk started at about 155k km, now I got 160k.
Is there any further diagnostics I could do?
The wife was driving the 07 XLE 4 cylinder the other morning. Temperature was around 2 F. She started the car. It started right up. Drove for around 5 minutes and shut the car off and went in to a store for 5 minutes. When she came back out and restarted the car an "E" appeared in the XLE's multifunction display and the low tire pressure light was also on. The car would not shift out of Park. The wife called me. I told her to shut it off and try restarting it. Same thing.
I then told her to shut it off and take the key out of the ignition and then try reinserting it and restarting it. That worked; it eliminated both codes and the car was able to be shifted normally out of Park. Since I still have about 10 months coverage left on my Platinum Extended Warranty the wife and I took the car over to the dealer. When I had my wife explain what happened to the dealer's service writer he just said I have never even heard of the "E" symbol. The tech said he never heard of it either. They did check out the car's shift/interlock system including the brake light switch, but could find nothing wrong.
2007 F150 supercrew, sometimes it doesn't want to shift out of park even on a flat surface where its not torque locked.. is there an adjustment i can do myself?
View 2 RepliesI have a cylinder 3 misfire and the vehicle is idling rough so I took it to the deal because I have a power terrain warranty. They're telling me I'll need a new manifold and plenum, coil pack, plugs, and gasket. Could this be accurate? I don't want to get screwed over...
View 9 RepliesI have a 2012 santa fe , when I put the car in park all doors unlock , is there a way to change this ?
View 5 RepliesWhen I start my vehicle, it makes a grinding noise, sounds like it's coming from the front of the vehicle, when I put into gear it stops. It started gradual and is getting worse. It's a 6 cylinder automatic, with 108 k miles.
View 3 Replies2nd time I've had this problem. With the car turned on "ready light" on, the car will not shift into D. It just stays in park, and yes my foot is on the brake. I've tried to reset by turning the car off, turning it on again and shifting into D, still no luck. By retrying this over and over it finally goes into Drive and away I go. I've had the car for 3months and 5k miles, and this has only happened twice.
The second time occurred when I was stopped by a flagman at a road construction site. Instead of shutting down, I just pushed the park button. The lights were on, the radio playing and my garmin was plugged in and the AC was on, would the high load have caused the problem? When I pulled the plug on the Garmin, the car went into gear on the next try, but I don't know if there is a cause and effect. I finally got it going after about 25 cars had to go around me and the last car was passing me when it finally went into D.