Purchased this vehicle new in Dec. 2011.Within a day or so,I noticed a hesitation when completely stopped and waiting for traffic to pass to make a left turn.
I started to proceed for this turn,but,no power when I slowly accelerated. All of a sudden,big surge of power ! Went to the Dealer to check this out.They said they drove the car for 7 miles,checked it scanner,etc.,but could not find the problem.
Santa Fe - 2004 - 2.7 liter automatic fwd.
I am experiencing an occasional jerking or hesitation while sitting stopped at lights and it also has a tendency to do the same as I begin to move from a stop at times. It almost seems like the transmission slipping or something but likely more engine related I think as I am at a stop. I have felt this slightly while at speed as well but not that often, at least not yet. It also seems more noticeable as the weather get warmer as was very noticeable late last summer and did not present itself again until spring.
Also-I have read that some threads re stalling issues(not exactly what I have) that can be related to the crankshaft position sensor and also read somewhere a while ago about an issue re the ecm needing reprogramming but have not found that recently.
Noticed that bluetooth audio (music) streaming from my iPhone cuts out completely when I enter an underground parkade. Even if the iPhone is connected with the cable.
View 2 RepliesI was noticing that the shade for the sunroof does not slide back 100%. It seems like they could have made it go back another inch or 2.
View 16 RepliesI purchased a 2007 Sonata with the 3.3L about six months ago. I really like the car, it has a lot of good features and lots of power; however, I am starting to have problems with the car. On accelerating from a stopped position the car almost quits (hesitates severely) and then picks up and goes on normally. Also, between 40 and 50 mph the car starts to jerk pretty hard for a few seconds and then it straightens out and runs normally again; it will do this repeatedly if it is kept between 40 and 50 mph.
When this first started happening the CEL would come on randomly and stay on for a day or two and then go off. While the CEL was on I took it to Autozone and had them pull the code, they said it was the crankshaft position sensor. Well based on the symptoms the diagnosis made sense. I replaced the sensor and the car seemed to be running normally on the 30 minute test drive. The next day my wife drove to work and she said the same symptoms had come back. It has been several weeks since I replaced the sensor and the CEL has not come back on. I have seen several postings about the spark plugs and wires and that is my next step. BTW the car has 94k miles.
I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with 47,000 Km on it.
Over the past 2 weeks I have noticed that when I go to start up the car, the ignition doesn't sound the same. Meaning, that typically when I start the car, I hear a quick turn of the ignition and away I go. When I now start up the car, the ignition does not turn over as quick and I'm now hearing a bit of a hesitation.
My 2009 awd SF is less than 4 years old and has about 81500 km on. In the past few days, I start to feel a little hesitation while starting the car. I have an incident today in which the car barely turn over - behaved exactly as if the battery is dying. Took it to the dealer and spent 55$ for a diagnosis => alternator is OK (what a relief) but the battery is weak. I do not think battery would die (stop holding charge) this soon. I expect at least 5-6 years of service from a battery.
View 31 RepliesI've noticed that on cold starts after work, or in the mornings in start up my Santa fe's really rough at idle.. I'd like to say even slight hesitation when I take off.. I notice a drop in RPM and lately harder shifts out of first..
My sf is the 3.5 AWD w/ nav it's a month old with 2900 Kms on it..
I've got a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine. Funny thing happened on the highway. Driving along with the cruise on, the engine 'hiccups'. Almost like a quick hesitation or someone lightly tapping the brakes.
Got it home and ran the usual tests. Computer showed no trouble codes. Checked the oil. Checked the air filter. All normal.
Turned the car on and tested it in park. Gave it some gas, and took the engine up to 3k RPMs...after a few seconds, it did the hiccup thing again. I watched the RPMs dropped from 3k to 2.5k, and then rebounded to 3k. We could also hear a slight and single 'knock' each time the RPM's would drop. I noticed the A/C was on, so I turned it off, and the problem went away. Turned the A/C back on, and the problem came back. I did that about 5 times to confirm it, and every time the problem occurred, the A/C had to be on.
Now, of course the car has 61.5k miles, and we're the second owners, so bye bye warranty. The car was in for repairs at the dealership when the head control unit for the A/C had issues. Of course now we ask them if the problem is related to their repair will they cover the costs, and they say the best they can do is ask Hyundai to cut down the expenses (even though the repair was done within the last 10k miles)?!
My guess is the compressor has kicked the bucket. Of course, I'm not sure if maybe it's the idle motor not operating like it should or if the car even HAS an idle motor to work with the RPMs when the A/C is on.
I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
View 5 Replies I was driving my F2007 Ford Focus and all the lights on the dash went on and then all the power went off and the car stopped. Once it stopped, there was no way to get the power on and I couldn't switched gears. I guess I shifted into park once the car started freaking out and now it's impossible to switch to neutral. The only light on the dash that works is the anti-theft symbol, which seems to go on for a second when I turn the ignition on. It doesn't stay on solid.
From what I've googled, it seems like the car's computer got tripped into activating the car's anti-theft locking system? I'm not really sure. (I was driving the car while this happened -- scary!) But AAA towed the car to a random auto repair shop near my house. Should I be having a Ford dealership look at this? Or is it fine in the hands of a private repair shop? Timing couldn't be worse -- I was going to drive my car across country for a new job in two days, so I'm hoping this can be sorted quickly and my car will be safe to drive by then.
About a month ago my ac stopped pushing any air out, but it only lasted for a day or so...then it has worked fine for the last month.
This morning it stopped again. No obvious signs of anything wrong, what might be causing this? not enough freon? I do get air when I turn it to the button that shows air coming from outside when I am at fast speeds, but not on the recirculation button. (I don't know the technical names of these button modes)
I have the 2012 Santa Fe Limited, bought brand new 0 miles off the lot.
My headlights worked on Tuesday. Wednesday night driving home I put my headlights on and neither is working. My brake lights, directional and highbeams work. The only thing that doesn't is the headlights.
I replaced both headlights and still not working. I purchase fuses 15A and switch the fuses which were blown and it resulted in my horn going off. I had someone check with a gauge and there is power in the light socket. We tried to replace the fuse again and the horn went off. We removed the fuse for the horn and replaced the fuses for the headlights and the horn still went off even though the fuse was missing.
The mechanic, checked my fuse box and wires around it and was not able to determine the issue.
I bought my 2007 Santa Fe with 112,000 miles in April. It ran fine until about a month ago. When I turned the key to aux, the radio and lights came on but when I tried to start it I lost all power. Turning the key off and back on had no effect, it acted like the battery was dead. I opened the hood and noticed the pos cable was loose on the terminal. As soon as I touched it I heard a click, the security light started blinking and it started fine.
A week later as I was driving on the highway the electricity started blinking in and out and the car would shutter as it lost and regained power, then eventually died completely but the radio was still on. I got to the shoulder and tried to turn it back on but even though the radio and lights worked, nothing happened when I tried to start it. I lodged a matchstick between the pos terminal and the cable to make sure the connection was tight and it started. Driving home the power would occasionally stutter when I hit a bump but it never died completely.
I used a battery and alternator tester that plugs into the cigarette lighter and both registered as fine. I've driven it to work, about 2 miles, several times since and the power sometimes cuts out at bumpy parts of the road and it has died completely twice while sitting still at a light. The clock doesn't reset when it dies so, knowing nothing about electrical systems, I would guess that the electricity isn't being entirely lost. Every time it dies the radio and lights still come on but I have to get out and jiggle the pos cable to get it to restart. While driving the battery and seat belt lights flash randomly. A friend told me to try removing the pos cable while it's running and that if it died, it was probably the alternator. Tried it and the engine died immediately. Don't know what this means since the alternator tested fine.
My 2009 Santa Fe GLS a/c, heater, etc. blower has stopped blowing air. I have checked the fuses, did the push test on the air adjustment button but nothing has worked. Sometimes it's like I can feel a VERY SMALL amount of air blowing out the vents.
View 3 RepliesI am having with our 2010 Santa Fe GLS (2.4L). Whenever I am stopped and in gear, I have an excessive about of engine vibration IMHO, my wife thinks not, but it just doesn't feel right to me. I can feel it in the seat and people sitting in the passenger side and in the back can also feel it. If I bump into neutral or am accelerating, the vibration goes away. I have no issues with hesitation or loss of power and no other issues/check engine light, etc. This has been happening since we purchased the vehicle, and I mentioned it to the dealer and was given the response that the engine needed sufficient time to be broken in...... I now have 15,000 miles and it still is an issue.
View 3 RepliesFront wipers stopped working while driving. trying to trouble shoot problem. wondering what fuses to check?
View 2 RepliesI had a new condenser put in last summer and the aircon has worked fine since then. Hot weather last week, aircon worked for a few days, then suddenly not working any more. The ac magnetic clutch is kicking in, the fuses all seem ok, I removed the low and high pressure caps and there seems to be a bit of freon fizzing on the valve after I removed the caps so I assume pressure is ok (don't have gauges -maybe Ill buy on ebay). Is there a low pressure switch that I can bypass to see if that makes it work?? or something else I can do? I assume if the clutch is kicking in and there is no squealing, that the compressor is probably ok?
View 6 RepliesI just bought a used 2011 Santa Fe. Two weeks ago, the right window stopped working. Neither the left or right switch had any effect. All other windows worked. A few minutes later it was ok and has been since. Today the left window did the same thing; was inop for a while then ok.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe. The drivers door handle has stopped working. I can open the door with the inside handle. The locking mechanism is fine. I took the interior panel off and found there is a middle metal panel, which stopped me from getting to the exterior door handle mechanism to see what is wrong. I can't find any information on how to correctly remove the middle panel. I remove the bolts but am not sure how to deal with the two cables from the inside handle to the lock and if there is anything else needed to release the middle panel.
View 8 RepliesAircon suddenly stopped working. Seemed to be due to faulty valve on low side (bubbles coming out when cap removed). However- when testing- the clutch still kicked on ok even though it was not blowing cold air. After a few weeks I had time to look further however it suddenly started squeaking. Turns out the bolt holding the ac clutch plate has sheared. see pic.
Question: is it possible the compressor has seized due to low freon and that's why it sheared? Is it possible that it sheared for any other reason? Is compressor replacement difficult?